LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. # 



UNITED STATES OP AMERICA. 



MY PILGRIMAGE 

TO 

EASTERN SHRINES. 



MY PILGRIMAGE 

TO 

EASTERN SHRINES. 




Bethlkhkm 



ELIZA C. BUSK 




J 

LONDON : 

HURST AND BLACKETT, PUBLISHERS. 

SUCCESSORS TO HENRY CO LB URN. 
13. GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET. 

1867. 

The right of Translation is referred. 



THIS BOOK 
IS DEDICATED, 
AS A TRIBUTE OF GRATEFUL AFFECTION AND RESPECT, 
IN ADMIRATION OF HER 
WORTH AS A CHRISTIAN, AN ENGLISHWOMAN, 
A MOTHER, AND A FRIEND, 
TO 

MRS. COLLINSON, 

BY 

THE AUTHOR. 



PEEF ACE. 



To visit the land where our Blessed Lord, taking upon 
Him the likeness of man, sojourned for a period of thirty- 
three years, over which He wandered, enduring fatigue 
and suffering, hunger and thirst, whose people heard 
His voice and were familiar with His presence, whose 
mountains He ascended, on whose lake He sailed, whose 
fields, trees, and customs He brought into the imagery 
of His parables, has often been the aspiration of many 
a devout Christian. 

When we remember the accounts we have of the fer- 
vour of the Crusaders, how men sold all that they had, 
left country, home, and all which made home dear, for 
certain hardships and perils, with but little information 
respecting their route, and much uncertainty as to the 
means by which their journey was to be accomplished, 
those amongst us who know by experience that even in 
these days the tour to the East (as it is somewhat irrever- 
ently styled) is one involving considerable anxiety, much 
fatigue, some difficulty, and not wholly exempt from 
danger, cannot but admire the fortitude which enabled 
many thousands of these men to persevere to the end. 
When we remember, too, that the grand object of the 
Crusades was at last accomplished, and that under the 
dominion of a virtuous Christian prince Jerusalem 
was more than seven centuries ago rescued from the 
hands of the infidel, how can we understand, to what 
can we attribute, the supineness of modern Christian 
nations, who are content that travellers of their race 
should be tolerated only in places of such heart-stirring 
religious interest ? Every Christian in the Holy Land 



PREFACE. 



bears, as it were, the yoke of the infidel. Has any 
effort been made to shake it off? The most callous 
and indifferent can hardly repress a feeling very like 
shame when he finds himself admitted or excluded from 
the Holy Sepulchre at the pleasure of the Turkish guards. 

It may be that for our humiliation, in the high pur- 
poses of God, we are not permitted, like His chosen 
people of old, to go in and possess the good land. Let 
us at least, however, be thankful that it is at this day 
more open to our researches than it ever has been since 
the Crusading times. These hospitable resting-places, 
the convents, are ever open to receive the traveller. 
The religious orders, not counting their lives dear unto 
themselves, have for a long series of years kept a foot- 
ing (and a perilous one too often) in this land, though 
the lives of many have been sacrificed, and their 
houses have been pillaged in times still recent. 
Their residence in some parts is never a very safe 
one, but still they remain, soldiers of the cross, ever 
faithful at their posts, and what would travelling in 
Palestine be without them ? They have great in- 
fluence over the people, are familiar with their lan- 
guage and customs, devote themselves cheerfully and 
kindly to receiving and supplying the wants of an im- 
mense number of pilgrims who twice in the year pass 
through a barren and difficult country ; while the tra- 
veller is in many parts equally dependent on them for 
shelter and entertainment, for which it is true he can 
make compensation, but which no compensation could 
otherwise procure. These establishments are entitled 
to the most sincere respect. It is with unmingled plea- 
sure that I bear my testimony to the valuable services 
and ready kindness of these self-denying and benevolent 
members of communities vowed to a life of religious 
and useful duties which they so well fulfil. 



E. C. BUSH. 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER I. 

From Gratz to Trieste — A Pleasant Promenade — Voyage down the Adri- 
atic — The Coasts of Istria, Fiume, Pola, &c., —Corfu — Government 
House — A Pasha's Daughter — Pound the Morea — Cerigo — Syra — 
A Turkish Family — Athens — The Pirseus — Greek Boatmen — The 
Streets of Athens — The Tempio del Vento — A Festa — The Univer- 
sity of Athens— Temple of Jupiter Olympus — The Theatre of Bac- 
chus — The Parthenon — The Erechtheion 1 



CHAPTER II. 

The English Church— The Hill of Mars— Greek Men and Women— The 
^National Costume — A Greek Wedding — The Ceremonies — The 
Officiating Priests — The Bride and Bridegroom — A Greek Funeral 
— Mount Lycabettus — Magnificent View — Ancient and Modern 
Athens — At Home in Athens — Athenian School Girls — The Theatre 
of Bacchus — A Day on the Acropolis — The Temple of Theseus — 
Bas-reliefs — A Greek Dance — Farewell to Athens . . .20 



CHAPTER III. 

Departure for Smyrna — Voyage to that City — Landing — Pontdes Cara- 
vanes — Moslem Call to Prayer — The Mosque — The Bazaar — Gene- 
ral view of Smyrna — Chateau St. Pierre — The Interior of a Mosque 
—What came of being there — Soldiers' Monument — Hotels— Row 
across the Bay — Beside the Bay . . . . . .42 

CHAPTER IV. 

Railway to Ayasalook — Ayasalook — Cave of the Seven Sleepers — Its 
Inner Recesses — Ephesus — Fragments of a Temple — The Port of the 
City — Remains of an Ancient Temple — Ruins — Prison of St. Paul 
— The Church of St. John — Greek Villagers out for a Day's Plea- 
sure — A Midnight Struggle — Camels — The Railway in the East — 
Rhodes .59 



X 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER V. 

Cyprus — The Convents of the Nuns of St. Giuseppe — Visit to an Island 
Family — The Streets of Cyprus — Voyage — Turks at Prayer — ■ 
Arrival at Beyrout — Madame Olympe — Landing at Jaffa — The 
Streets and Lanes of the City — Arab Women — Setting out for 
Jerusalem — Rainleh — The Pass of Aboo Goosch — Arrival at Jerusa- 
lem — First View of the Holy City — Walk to Bethany — The Grave 
of Lazarus — The Mount of Olives — The Garden of Gethsemane 75 

CHAPTER VI. 

The Damascus Gate — The Cave of Jeremiah — The Jews' Wailing-plaee 
— The American Church — The House of Annas — Of Caiphas — 
Lepers — Keeping Vigil — Circuit of the Walls — English Mission — 
The Valley of Jehoshaphat — The Pool of Siloam — The Valley of 
Hinnom — The^ Road to Bethlehem — Convent of the Nativity — 
Chapel of the Grotto — St. Jerome — Bethlehem House — Field of the 
Shepherds — Pools of Solomon — Gardens of Solomon . . . 95 

CHAPTER VII. 

St. Giovanni in Montague — Convent of Spanish Monks — Superior of the 
Nunnery — The Church of the Convent — Shrine of John the Baptist 
— Nuns — Convent Garden — View of the Village — Return to Jerusa- 
lem — Prince Arthur in the Holy Land — The Stations — Church of 
the Holy Sepulchre — Scene in the Interior — Arabs — Way to 
Emmaus — The Marchioness — An Angry Friar — The Streets of 
Jerusalem at Night — On the Mount of Olives — Visit to the Nun- 
nery of Notre Dame de Sion — The Tombs of the Kings — The 
English Church — Convent School Discipline — Out with the Nuns — 
Visit to Bethany — Palm Sunday — The Greek Convent of St. Croix 
— Moslem Procession — Mecca Pilgrim — Locusts . . .112 

CHAPTER VLTX. 

Good Friday in Gethsemane — The Garden of Gethsemane — The Mosque 
of Omar — Appearance of the Interior — The Octagon — The Crypt — 
The Altar of David — Easter Eve — The Armenian Church — Scene in 
the Bazaars — Easter Sunday — Ceremonies at the Holy Sepulchre — 
Quarrel between Greeks and Armenians — Easter Time at Jerusalem 
— The French Caravan — Convent Memories — The Convent Terrace 
— House of an Eastern Laundress — English Chemist — Sister Bernard 
— Departure from the Nunnery — From Jerusalem to Jaffa — Scrip- 
tural Sites — Arabs and their Horses — Yellow Locusts . . 184 

C LI AFTER IX. 

Ramleh — The Tower — Lydda — Jaffa — The Franciscan Convent — Pil- 
grims — Dinner at the Convent — Murder of Several Monks by Arabs 
— Reminiscences of Jerusalem — An Orange Garden — The Reservoir 
—The Bazaar — Files of Camels — The Hotel par excellence — 
English and French Corvettes in the Bay — Departure from Jaffa — 
Fellow-Passengers — Caifa — Mount Carmel — A Hermitage — Graves 
of the Monks — Two English Travellers — Ebal and Gerizim — Arab 
Tradition — The Grotto of Elijah — The Nunnery at Caifa . 152 



CONTENTS. 



xi 



CHAPTER X. 

St. Jean d'Acre — Conversation by Signs — En route to Nazareth — Cara- 
van of Greek Pilgrims — Bedouins — Nazareth — The House of Mary 
— The Greek Church — A Stormy Night — Chapel of the Annuncia- 
tion — Joseph's Workshop — Mensa Christi — Chaunting an Oremus 
— The Mount of Trembling— The Mountains of Gilboa — Female 
Fashions of the East and West — Pilgrims from Siberia — Mount 
Tabor — Extensive View — Churches on Mount Tabor — Descent of 
the Mount — Suspicious-looking Bedouins — Tiberias — An Arab 
Christian — A Spanish Padre — Country of the Gadarenes — Mount 
Hermon .......... 171 

CHAPTER XI. 

Cana of Galilee — The Marriage Feast Chamber — A Storm — From Naza- 
reth to Caifa — The Brook Kishon — The Telegraph — Caifa — Con- 
vent Rest — Nuns on a Journey — Scenes traversed by them — Sidon 
—Its Traffic — Departure from Caifa — Adieu to Palestine — Beyrout 
— A Voyage en Orient — Amiable English Lady — News from 
Europe — Friends from the Desert — En route to Damascus — The 
Ridges of Lebanon — Djebel Sheik — The Diligence from Damascus 
—The Approach to the City . . . . . .188 

CHAPTER XII. 

Damascus — Rival Hosts — The Hotel of M. Demetrius Cara — The Old 
Castle — Minaret of the Grand Mosque — Ancient Tombs — A Bazaar 
— The Gazelle — The Grand Mosque — A Family of Travellers — 
Scene of the Christian Massacres — Franciscan Convent — Streets 
and Bazaars — The Shopkeeper's Siesta — Dress of the Women — ■ 
Somnolent Worshippers — Paying a Visit — The Effendi — A Damas- 
cus Family — A Day Out — Eastern Courtesy — Climbing — Mag- 
nificent View — The Environs of Damascus — The Pacha's Seraglio — 
The Sheik— Evening— The Walls of the City— The Arab at Home 
— The Baths — The Consul's Residence — A Holiday . . 205 

CHAPTER XIII. 

Departure from Damascus — The Post House — Ascent of Lebanon — Ras 
Beyrout — Baalbec — Interesting Party of Travellers — Inscriptions in 
the Rock— The Terrace by Moonlight — The Streets of Beyrout — 
The Pine Forest — The Broken Lily — Cholera — Quarantine — An 
Egyptian Lady — Heights of Beit Miry — On Lebanon — Going to 
the Well — Mountain Villages — Beautiful Young Armenian — Turkish 
Ladies — Peculiar Female Dress — A Mountain Family — Preparing 
Dinner — Traces of Violence — Coming down from Lebanon . 226 

CHAPTER XIV. 

My Departure — Chasing a Steamer — At Sea — Rhodes — Coast Scenery — 
Bay of Smyrna — View of the City — In Quarantine — The English 
Consulate — Quarantine Establishment — Allowed to move on — 
Channel of the Dardanelles — Constantinople — Hotel d'Angleterre — 



Xll 



CONTENTS, 



Moonlight Row before the Sultan's Palace — Old Stamboul — The 
Mosque of Sultan Achmet — The Tomb of Sultan Mohammed — Chairs 
for Prayer— Les Isles des Princes — Ruins of the Old Seraglio — 
Scutari — Mosque Aya Sophia 244 

CHAPTER XV. 

Scutari — Howling Dervishes — Curious Ceremony — The "Furore" of 
Devotion — Tradition of the Sultan Mahmoud — Hospital of Scutari 
— Romantic Story of a Sultan's Daughter — Seeing the Sultan — 
Costume of the Spahis — The Spinning Dervishes — Religious Ballet 
in their Mosque — Turkish Women — Sad Mortality — The English 
Church — The English Embassy — Staying at Therapia — The Sultan's 
Kiosks — The Bosphorus — The Castles of Europe and Asia — Village 
of Buyukdere — European and Asiatic sides of the Bosphorus — 
Towers of Roumeli Mssar — Kandili — Constantinople — Jangin War 
— The Sultan's Friday Progress — Handsome Turks . .262 

CHAPTER XVI. 

Adieu to Constantinople — Turkish Ladies — Mont du Geant — The Black 
Sea — Varna — Entrance into the Danube — Isle des Serpents — Sulina 
— Banks of the Danube — Toultscha — Young Women in Quarantine 
— A Memorial Russian Church — Arrival at Galatz — Appearance of 
the Town — Variety of Scenery — Braila and Hirsova — Giurgevo — 
— Bucharest — Interesting Group — Mcopolis — Salutations of the 
Garcons on the River Steamers — Turn Severin — Porte de Fer — 
Orsova — Golumbacz — Babakaj — Curious Rocks — Enormous Women 
— A Turk in the Ladies' Cabin 281 

CHAPTER XVII. 

Belgrade — An Hungarian Princess — Dalys, Apatin, and Paks — Ezchaue 
Station — Hungarian Children — Buda and Pesth — Blocksberg — The 
Museum — Jewish Reformed Synagogue — The Fortifications of Buda 
— The Ancient Crown of Hungary — Marionville — Pettau — Beau- 
tiful Pass— Der Schwarze Adler — A Disagreeable Travelling Route 
— Bruneck — Francis Festung — Botzen — Monument to the Arch- 
duke Rainer of Austria — Curious Old Monuments — Baffled Curiosity 
— Beautiful Mountain View 295 

CHAPTER XVIII. 

Meran — German Social Life — Hotels and Pensions — The Parish Church 
— Relic of a Saint — Chapel of St Valentine — The Tyrol — A Tunnel — 
Picturesque Old Castle — The Rauchenberg — Ruined Castle — Sun- 
day Gathering of Peasants — Railroad to Verona — Verona — The 
" Kaiserkrone " — Brixen — Stertzing — The Brenner Pass — Houses of 
Prayer — The Brenner See — Innspruck — Under Valley of the Inn — 
Nuns — Bavarian Frontier — Passport Annoyance — Alpine Scenery 
— Munich — Augsburg — The Domkirche — Ulm — The Minster — 
Wood- Carving — Geislingen — Stuttgart 306 



CHAPTER I. 



From Gratz to Trieste— A Pleasant Promenade — Voyage down the Ad- 
riatic — The Coasts of Istria, Fiume, Pola, &c, — Corfu — Government 
House — A Pasha's Daughter — Round the Morea — Cerigo — Syra — 
A Turkish Family — Athens — The Piraeus — Greek Boatmen — The 
Streets of Athens — The Tempio del Vento — A Festa — The Univer- 
sity of Athens — Temple of Jupiter Olympus — The Theatre of Bac- 
chus — The Parthenon — The Erechtheion. 



EW YEAR'S DAY, before dawn I was in a rail- 



" way train to leave Gratz for Trieste, most im- 
patient to quit the region of snows, which for several 
days had marked the course of a most dreary journey 
from the centre of Germany. a Buongiorno,Signori,"said 
an Italian, stepping into his place-— a greeting which, in 
the language of the sweet South, seemed promising and 
pleasant even there. A young Hungarian lady, with 
large clear blue eyes, white forehead, and rosy, plump 
cheeks, all muffled up in a scarlet knitted shawl, and 
with a little white dog in her lap, and a fur-clad papa by 
her side, was going to get warm at Venice for the rest 
of the winter ; and on we all went at cheerful speed, 
venturing now and then, as morning advanced, to let 
down a window for a hurried glance without ; but the 
snow -clad landscape presented little that was very attrac- 




2 



TRIESTE. 



tive. After pausing for dinner at Steinbruck, a place in 
the fine Pass of Simmerung, whose jagged mountains 
edge the defile, we went on from Cilly to Laibach with 
the additional company of a little lad going to the Uni- 
versity. After passing Laibach we crossed many via- 
ducts, and soon seemed to be on very high ground, a 
terraced route on a mountain side ; pines and fir-trees 
clothing the precipices, and a wide plain extending far 
below. Visiting Adelsberg could not be thought of, but I 
was told that at Pentecost the caves were all illuminated, 
and decked with garlands for the grand festa, when the 
peasantry danced within those gloomy recesses. 

Evening came on, and a sudden change of temperature 
with it. The early moon and a mild star or two looked 
in upon us, while the ice melted from the windows, 
which all day, and for many previous days, had presented 
a very frosty aspect. I was the first to let them down, 
and once more to recognize with intense thankfulness 
the balmy softness of the Italian clime, registering at the 
same time a kind of vow never more to leave its genial 
life-comforting warmth for the blustering north. 

At Nabresina many quitted the train, but one carriage 
which was quite full bore on still southwards, arriving 
in Trieste about nine o'clock. Next morning what a 
cheerful scene ! Ships and the blue sea visible from my 
window, and on going out a piazza with fruit, vegetables, 
and sunshine. My first thought was of the ice-bound 
country I had quitted, where not a blade of grass was 
to be seen, not a leaf of salad to be had ; but I was soon 



THE CATHEDRAL. 



3 



attracted by groups of peasants in rather pretty costumes, 
their dark gowns bound with broad bright coloured rib- 
bons, a jacket open in front showing embroidered ker- 
chief with gold clasp, and invariably a nosegay within 
its folds, white cap with veil turned back and falling in 
double plait clown to the waist, and purple sash with 
long ends tied at the side. The piazza has a fountain in 
the midst, with emblematical figures of the four quarters 
of the globe. 

Trieste is a cheerful town, with good shops and a very 
good hotel, the charges of which are reasonable. From 
the Locanda Grande in the piazza one emerges in the 
midst of the country people, with their fresh fruit. 
The post-office is far off on the other side of the town, 
past a smaller piazza, with more fruit and food, sold by 
peasants with good-humoured faces ; and across a canal, 
where vessels are unloading, is the spacious church of 
St. Antonio, which has some fine pictures. Not far off 
are some gardens, which in summer are open to the 
public. The old cathedral is up a steep rising from the 
large piazza, a good half-hour's walk. I went there on 
the sixth, and on entering heard the voice of a priest, 
who from the pulpit was summing up all the deaths of 
each parish in the past year, the announcement of the 
numbers in total being strangely thrilling. The church 
was densely crowded, and a sort of shudder seemed to 
pervade the mass as the numbers " gathered in" were told. 
After a pause and prayers, the number of marriages and 
of births was announced, the whole finishing with music. 

B 2 



4 



THE CASTELLO MJRAMO. 



A similar ceremony takes place at the same time every 
year. There are many very old monuments of gold mo- 
saic in this church, in which the history of the saint and 
martyr to whom it is dedicated is very graphically and 
rather grotesquely told. One marble figure bearing the 
palm branch before the altar is very chaste and delicate. 
There is a fine view from the platform outside over the 
pleasant sea, and in a garden close by are many old 
Roman fragments of sculpture. 

I remained twelve days in Trieste, always wanting to 
be off southwards in ships that were going merrily away 
over the rippling waves. The pier is crowded on 
Sundays and festas, and from it one quiet evening I 
saw the range of mountains arching round to Venice, 
all bathed in rosy light. On the line of coast towards 
Nabresina is the CastelloMirama, belonging to Maximilian, 
now Emperor of Mexico, and once his summer residence ; 
a most charming place, of which he must sometimes 
think even in his Mexican palace. There is a nice road 
close to the sea for driving to this pleasant abode, and 
the railway to Nabresina runs along above. A Pharos, 
or lighthouse, stands out at the extreme end of the Molo, 
which faces the whole town, and is about two miles in 
length, forming a semicircle from the entrance of the 
harbour. Part of the town stands on the hill crowned 
by the cathedral, and from the sea its aspect is com- 
manding. The principal streets and the harbour present 
a lively scene at all times. Ships of different nations are 
constantly lying at anchor, while within the town the 



CORFU. 



5 



Maltese, Dalmatian, and Greek sailors mingle with the 
population, and help to form the most variegated groups 
at every turn. 

Mr. Moore, a worthy English merchant, helped me in 
some business matter that required the signature of the 
Austrian officials, who, but for him, would have perplexed 
me greatly. At last everything was arranged, and in 
great haste, consequent on the arrival of letters only on 
the previous day, I set off for the long-desired and far 
distant shores of Palestine. 

The coasts of Istria, Fiume, Pola, &c, were passed in 
the course of the day, and a beautiful moonrise gave 
another charm to the scene. The whole of the next day 
we were out of sight of land, the Adriatic playing some 
rough gambols ; but the following morning we had a 
charming time of it in the calm channel of Otranto. 
We reached Corfu about mid-day, passing through a 
narrow strait formed by the island and mainland, where- 
in on both sides the scenery was very pretty; the delight- 
ful verdure of the island gave me, who had so recently 
seen a snow-covered country, a feeling of intense pleasure, 
added to the anticipation of setting foot on land. A 
narrow street, with booths, huge baskets filled with 
oranges and lemons, still adorned with their leaves and 
seeming to have been plucked in clusters, leads up to the 
centre of the little town. Greeks in costume, the short 
full white skirt, red jacket, close fitting gaiter, and tas- 
seled fez, setting off their dark faces, delicate features, and 
well-turned forms, and some few Turks, with their heavy 



6 



CESSION OF THE SEVEN ISLANDS, 



turbans and impassive countenances, attracted my at- 
tention on the way to Carter's Hotel, my room in which 
looked out on the spacious esplanade, with its handsome 
border of fine trees, and on the picturesque citadel, ivy- 
grown and ancient in look. 

Many of the fortifications at Corfu were destroyed by 
the English before possession of the island was given up 
to the Greeks (from some good motive, I was informed), 
so that the place has at present a ruinous aspect. The 
Venetians, who built an archway near, had, it is to be 
hoped, an equally good motive for leaving it standing. 
There is an agreeable walk along the promenade towards 
Castrades, returning from which by the spoiled batteries, 
I re-entered the town by the lofty Venetian gateway. 
The civil young hostess, doing the office of cicerone, 
accompanied me to some store-shops, tolerably well sup- 
plied, where I obtained a few articles which I had for- 
gotten to purchase at Trieste. 

The cession of the Seven Islands by the English has 
given rise to one murmur, which I heard everywhere, 
and which indeed was anticipated. " There used to be 
four thousand English soldiers stationed here, each 
spending part of his thirteenpence per day, besides 
wealthy English officers spending no one knows how 
much," said one long-faced tradesman to me, " and now 
there are one hundred and fifty Greeks, who don't spend 
their twopence." 

The Government-house at one side of the esplanade, 
with an archway at each end, through which the views 



a pacha's daughter. 



7 



were charming, and a terrace running all round, had a 
pleasant aspect. The island, on the whole, disappointed 
me ; but I had not time, nor was it the season to do 
so, to go far inland, where there are many pretty scenes 
among its hills and villages. The opposite coast had a 
fine, bold aspect. A young lady I met had, some time 
ago, paid a visit, accompanied by her father, to a Pacha's 
family in that country, living somewhere up among the 
mountains. On their arrival, the Pacha's daughter was 
on the stairs to receive them, clad in pink silk and 
gold embroidery, looking like a figure in a picture, her 
hair cut short in front, and hanging down in fine plaits 
on her shoulders, and her yellow boots on, ready to walk 
with them round the gardens. This young lady was 
much delighted with a small hand looking-glass belong- 
ing to her visitor, in which she delighted to look for 
hours at her own pretty face. 

The English Church service is held in the old par- 
liament house. All the consuls live in a row, in good 
houses, on higher ground than the rest of the town, 
commanding a fine view, their signs, as we may call 
them, hanging out in glaring colours. 

Before leaving, I visited one of the Greek churches, 
which I saw all ready for the festa of the Epiphany, 
celebrated by the Eastern Church later than by the 
Latins. An infinite number of candles, long and short, 
thick and thin, plain and decorated, made the chief 
show. 

After getting my billet for the steamer to Athens, and 



8 



SYRA, 



having an interview at the consul's, which was a mere loss 
of time, I was once more afloat at two o'clock ; and, I 
must acknowledge, I admired the aspect of the town 
and citadel from the sea. 

Cephalonia and Zante are names which call up many 
images of beauty. Indeed, the whole of these Ionian 
isles are attractive, and would well repay a visit, gems 
as they are rising from the azure waves of the loveliest 
of seas, and invested with so much of classical interest. 
Morning showed us the island of Cerigo, with its barren 
precipices ; and as we coasted the Morea, I felt disap- 
pointed at its bare and rugged shores, being accustomed 
to connect the name of Greece with all that is beautiful 
and attractive. The place where the old hermit lives, 
and from whence sometimes in calm weather he comes 
out to pay vessels a visit, was pointed out from the 
deck, which, during the whole day, I never quitted, 
being buoyed up with an indefinite expectation of 
catching a glow of enthusiasm from the sight of a land 
every inch of whose soil is associated with the name of 
some hero or demigod. I caught, however, nothing 
but a severe cold, which somewhat damped my enthu- 
siasm for the heroic. 

In early morning we anchored before Syra; and when 
I came on deck by starlight, as morning dawned, I 
had a pleasing view of this beautifully situated town, 
which rises up a curving hill : side. In the centre I 
observed a conical eminence, covered with houses, and 
surmounted by a church. The Pacha of Kandia, his 



THE PACHA OF KANDIA. 



9 



ladies, children, and servants, came on board; be is a man 
about fifty, wearing a red turban, ample coat, and full 
trousers, bis scimitar banging by bis side. The ladies 
were invested in bolster-shaped silk cloaks, of pink, 
yellow, and other colours, but generally of somewhat 
dull hues and old-looking ; a veil of thin muslin, doubled, 
covering their faces and heads, but leaving the eyes 
free. One of them was very pretty, her complexion 
being of a delicate paleness, her eyes beautifully formed, 
and with an expression of haughty self-will which 
showed, I doubt not, that she was the favourite. Two 
Nubian slaves, one of whom had a large bottle of olives 
in her hand, were in attendance upon these ladies, 
the former crouching down on deck, while the latter sat 
in a line on the seats and chairs. There was also a 
little girl about thirteen, and two younger children, one 
of whom they commanded to salute me, and say some- 
thing. One elderly lady, in a black cloak, seemed to 
take the lead amongst the group. 

The Pacha had his own cook with him, but the 
steward, to all appearance, received many orders. His 
family went below, and chose their berths in the ladies' 
cabin, the children, and even one or two of the ladies, 
accommodating themselves in the salon. One of them 
informed me they were going to Stamboul. The Pacha 
himself looked quite a man of the world, and was going 
to Constantinople, I understood, to occupy a higher 
station than that he had previously held. 

The steamer sailed with them about mid-day, and 



10 



CHURCH OF ST. GEORGE. 



about nine at night came on a terrible storm, to tbe 
terrors of which these poor women, who perhaps had 
never been at sea before, were exposed during the whole 
night. 

Passengers for Athens have to change into a small 
steamer at Syra, and as, from some cause, the & Orient 
remained all day at this port, I had time to ascend 
the house-covered mount of old Syra by a series 
of nights of steps, a fatiguing enough operation, but 
showing at every rise a better view. From the summit, 
crowned by the church and convent of St. Giorgio, the 
islands of Paxos and Antiparos, with others in the dis- 
tance, are visible, the high land of Syra itself stretching- 
far out to the right. The lighthouse, ships, and 
steamers are seen at anchor in the ample circuit of the 
harbour ; and the town itself, with its white, yellow, and 
red houses clustering down to the very edge of the 
water, presents a most charming and novel prospect. 
The guide said that there were about twenty religieuses 
in the convent here, one of whom, an old woman, in a 
brown stuff gown, and cord, with her head wrapped in 
white, came towards me as, almost breathless, I was 
mounting the last steps, and laying her hand on her 
breast, seemed to give a greeting or benediction. 

After gazing on the view as well as the furious wind 
would permit, I entered the church, a perfectly simple 
edifice, with an altar-piece of St. George inflicting con- 
dign punishment on his redoubtable adversary, looking 
mildly with his bright blue eyes all the while. Sheltered 



GULF OF iEGINA, 



11 



behind a parapet wall edging the mount, I looked down 
on a valley, the sides of which are in summer covered 
with vines, but wild-looking, and void of habitations. 
On descending to the town, I passed on through the 
large piazza, and other streets, in which I saw many 
nicely-built houses ; and, altogether, Syra bore the 
aspect of a place of some importance, as was testified 
also by its animation and considerable traffic. 

About four next morning we were in motion, and such 
noisy machinery as this little steamer had I never heard, 
so vigorously did it keep thumping, scraping, and creak- 
ing. When I got up to enjoy the morning under the 
soft Grecian sky, we passed several islands, the most 
important of which was iEgina. After entering the gulf 
there was nothing to behold but bare, treeless coasts 
all the way, washed by the most translucent waters, and 
bathed in an atmosphere of a lavender tint. About 
three in the afternoon we came in view of Athens and the 
Acropolis, and it was not long ere the bay of the Pirseus 
received us. It was a fine sunny afternoon, and two 
or three war steamers were in the harbour, looking very 
trim, while boats and small craft were moving about at 
its mouth. 

I observed the two basements of stone on which once 
stood the two lions now on each side of the gates of the 
arsenal at Venice — -grim guardians, who once witnessed 
the naval victories of the conquering Athenians. It is 
as well they are now removed, when the power of these 
very Athenians, ay, their very existence, has to be 



12 



THE PIRJEUS. 



upheld by foreign influence and gold. Salamis, and 
the little isle named in accounts of that great engage- 
ment which took place near it, lie but an inconsiderable 
distance from the entrance of the harbour. This, then, 
was the port from which Themistocles sailed, and where, 
at last, the hero found a tomb, the spot to which his 
remains were brought when his noble heart had broken 
in exile. This very port he had planned, connecting it 
with the city by the famous long walls, some vestiges of 
which, here and there, are still to be seen. Here came 
the angry Spartan, and, long after him, the fierce Turk, 
to destroy all that remained of this once powerful and 
polished city and State. And yet Athens lived, lived 
even in the ruins of those grand temples amid which 
the modern city now rises. I was now peacefully ap- 
proaching it, in the quiet and security of civilization, 
and with all the modern facilities of travel. Wonderful 
indeed is that series of events which connects the past 
with the present ! 

A boat, with two Greek boatmen, in picturesque cos- 
tume, was waiting, as the steamer came to a stand ; and 
I was hardly seated on a carpet spread over the stern, 
when, as I was looking dreamily round, a commissionaire 
handed his book of recommendations ; but discreetly put 
it aside when he saw that none of the common-place 
arts or artifices of his profession could attract my atten- 
tion, or induce me to engage his services. 

The road to Athens was swampy and poor-looking, 
and none of those outward accessories that suggest 



THE ROAD TO ATHENS. 



13 



elevating thoughts of the past were to be seen on it. 
We met carriages of all grades in considerable numbers. 
In some of them were no fewer than six merry sailors, 
three-quarters tipsy ; and others were driven by smart 
Greek youths in the national costume. Now and then 
Greek ladies, with scarlet velvet cap, and tassel hang- 
ing knowingly on one side, or young Greek horsemen, 
rode dashingly past ; but, for the most part, the people 
had adopted the European dress, and, alas ! many of 
them were most miserable, hungry-looking mendicants. 
We passed on our way some newly-discovered statuary, 
which had been taken from excavations near the city ; 
on entering which, our ears were greeted by the strains 
of a band playing in a square of houses of all sizes, built 
on patches of ground, without any regularity. Houses 
of two stories, with balconies and green verandahs, 
seemed to abound ; and we drove through a long street, 
h which led to our hotel. Travellers should make their 
drivers turn off by the road leading to the Temple of 
Theseus, which few, entering Athens on that side, will 
fail to recognise on the right hand. The road passes 
also under the Acropolis, and through the spacious piece 
of ground on which stand the ruins of the Temple of 
Jupiter Olympus, whence there is a fine view of Mount 
Hymettus. Such an introduction to the city keeps up 
those first general impressions which most travellers like 
to preserve in visiting a place of great interest ; and as 
a consideration which may weigh with those who are 
more prosaic, it is equally convenient to reach the 



14 



TEMPIO DEL YEHTO. 



hotels. The drive from the Piraeus occupies an hour. 

After a very short pause of rest, such was my im- 
patience to visit scenes of classic interest, that I at 
once issued out. and walked down the street in which 
stands the Hotel d'Angleterre, the Hotel de la Cou- 
ronne, and the Hotel d' Orient ; of which the Couronne 
has the best view, looking directly towards the Acropo- 
lis. One of the first places I visited was the little 
" Tempio del Vento/' at the end of the street, a ruin that 
has preserved its form, and must have been very orna- 
mental when the ground by which it is approached was 
lower. It stands just on the rise of the Acropolis, and 
is still ornamented with figures in a horizontal position, 
emblematical both of the rougher and of the milder 
winds. These statues are over each of the four doors 
by which the winds, of which they are emblematic, must 
enter. Two of the entrances have been closed up ; the 
whole ruin is very much cracked, and displaced frag- 
ments of sculpture lie around. 

The festa gave great animation to my first sight of 
Athens, the people in the streets being all in their 
national costume. On the 20th, I walked through 
the E ne de FUniversite, in which is that seat of learning 
from which the street takes its name. The University 
is a large building, which the modern Greeks admire- 
very much ; all the more because it is their own work 
It is a simple and chaste-looking building, of a faint 
green colour, with border lines of delicate red. There 
are six or eight alcoves in front, the prevailing hue in 



THE KING'S TEMPLE. 



15 



which is red, situated on each side of a flight of about 
twelve steps. The courts have handsome railings, with 
gilded tops ; but the two rows of ordinary-looking win- 
dows, and the roof, are without any ornament. 

From this I passed on to the king's palace, an in- 
different-looking, bare, large white house, the garden 
of which is open to the public every afternoon. There 
is also another garden, with a profusion of oranges, at 
a little distance below the palace, which is open to all 
who choose to enter, as a public promenade. The street 
Hermes, with convenient shops, beyond this garden, 
leads from the palace, in the arrangement of which 
there seems to have been a studied domesticity, for the 
residence of royalty is close to that of the citizens. The 
next day I visited the remaining columns of the temple 
of Jupiter Olympus, standing above the river Illyssus, 
thirteen in number, of the Corinthian order. They are 
burned brown by the sun of so many centuries, as are 
all the ruins here, constructions of exquisite white 
marble taking a rich golden hue in some parts. At a 
little distance from this cluster of pillars are three more 
columns, the centre one of which fell during an earth- 
quake in 1852, the shock caused by its fall being felt 
throughout the whole town — at least so said the guide ; 
and certainly it looks as if its fall must have caused a 
considerable commotion. 

The Arch of Adrian, a little further on, looks a 
mere plaything to anyone remembering those of Con- 
stantine and Severus at Rome, and also in contrast with 



16 



THEATRE OF BACCHUS. 



the three columns. Approaching nearer the Acropolis, 
I came to the tomb of Lysicrates, or the Lantern of 
Diogenes, as it has been called from its form. Lord 
Byron resided just behind this monument of antiquity, 
in a palace which is no longer standing, and in the 
vicinity of those sites are now to be seen miserable huts, 
and women, hardly clothed, coming in from the distant 
country with mules laden with fire-wood. The theatre 
of Bacchus, a structure of immense size, once stood near 
this, at the base of the Acropolis ; its fragments have 
been collected, and on the marble chairs, in a line with 
the stage, are the names of those to whom they were 
appropriated two thousand years ago. What a me- 
morial of worldly vanity ! Barbarians from a distant 
isle, scarce known then, an Ultima Thuh, come and peer 
at these Hellenic appellations, mounting the steps as 
the generations of Athenians did when they assembled 
here in an immense semicircle to witness the dramatic 
representations of the works of their noblest poets. 
Mounting higher up the ascent, I looked over on the 
other side at a more recent Eoman structure, where 
there were contests with wild beasts, and where human 
beings were not unfrequently torn to pieces in the pas- 
times of a polished and civilized people. Further on is 
the wooden gate by which* admission is gained to the 
platform on which the Parthenon stands, guarded 
from those worshippers of antiquity who, if not thus 
prevented, would soon carry off every fragment of this 
glorious remnant of the past. 



THE PARTHENON. 



17 



The broad ancient way of approach by the Propylsea 
was an inclined marble slope, up which the chariots and 
horses were driven to the temple, the fragments that 
remain of this pavement being furrowed and rough, 
so that the animals' feet might have some hold on it 
during their upward struggle. 

Some modern marble steps on the right hand lead to 
a small but beautiful little temple, called the " Temple of 
Victory without Wings," situated on a kind of terrace. 
Tradition says it was erected on the spot from which 
jEgeus precipitated himself on seeing the vessel of his 
son return with a black flag. About six columns are 
standing, and amongst the most admired fragments is a 
figure of Victory, with one foot crossed over the other, 
adjusting her sandals. Some virtuoso, with his hammer, 
struck off half the little foot a year or two since, a theft 
of which the guard spoke with great exasperation. 
The Turks, in 1687, threw great part of this elegant 
building down, in order to construct a battery, when 
besieged by the Doge MorosinL The government, 
under Otho, replaced what remained of its fragments. 
It seems to have been constructed before the Parthenon, 
perhaps in the time of Cimou, who died B.C. 449. 

Advancing over blocks and amidst fragments of ex- 
quisite figures, all of the pure Pentelican marble, I 
came to the steps of the Parthenon itself. Xo words 
can express the admiration, mingled with regret, its 
contemplation excites. Standing in the centre of the 
magnificent structure, and looking round on its noble 

c 



18 



THE ERECHTHEION. 



ranges of columns, 1 could not but wonder how it 
looked two thousand years since, when it had the same 
delicate lavender sky to form a curtain to its magnifi- 
cent ranges of columns. To the administration of 
Pericles is due the glory of having erected this admirable 
edifice, and the master-mind of Phidias planned the 
perfect work, presiding over the whole, while to his 
pupils, and also to some of his rivals, particular parts 
are attributed. The eastern front, as also the colossal 
statue of Minerva, covered with gold and ivory, which 
stood in the centre, are thought to have been the work 
of his own hand. This statue was carried away by the 
Christians under the reign of the Emperor Justinian, 
and perhaps went to ornament the Hippodrome of 
Constantinople. The guide led me on to the Erech- 
theion, another temple, or rather several temples united, 
and consecrated to different personages ; one to Minerva 
Polias, another to Pandrosia, first priestess of Minerva. 
In certain divisions were supposed to have been en- 
closed the sacred olive, and the wave of the sea which 
Minerva and Neptune respectively caused to appear 
there while disputing the supremacy over Athens. The 
tomb of Cecrops, the founder of the city, was in the 
Erechtheion. On the whole, a mass of shapeless frag- 
ments is all that an uneducated eye can distinguish. 
In a charming little portico, however, lately restored, 
are represented six young girls of the virgins dedicated 
to Minerva, who in the processions carried on their 
heads what was called the sacred burdens. One of 



BEAUTIFUL FIGURES. 



19 



these figures, on which the architrave rests, was de- 
posited by Lord Elgin, with other spoils, in our dingy 
British Museum ; but its place has been filled with one 
of terra cotta. One almost feels for the exile borne 
away from this sunny clime, and her graceful com- 
panions, as if she could be sensible of our sympathy. 
The figures altogether, which do not seem to have had 
a very heavy weight to support, are models of grace. 

My guide had much more to show and talk about, 
such as the grotto of Pan, and other places, but I had 
seen enough for one day, and heard more than enough, 
and was ready to return, which we did by an archway 
and path skirting the west side of the Acropolis, de- 
scending to the temple of, and up, the Rue d'Eole. 



20 



CHAPTER II. 

The English Church— The Hill of Mars— Greek Men and Women— The 
National Costume — A Greek Wedding — The Ceremonies — The 
Officiating Priests — The Bride and Bridegroom — A Greek Funeral 
— Mount Lycabettus — Magnificent View — Ancient and Modern 
Athens — At Home in Athens — Athenian School Girls — The Theatre 
of Bacchus — A Day on the Acropolis — The Temple of Theseus — 
Bas-reliefs — A Greek Dance — Evening Walk — Farewell to Athens. 

ON Sunday, the 2 2nd, I went to the English church, 
in time only for a very dull sermon ; after which I 
called on two American dames, recommended as keeping a 
pension, but found in them a transatlantic indifference 
and affected fine-ladyism that would ha\ r e been insup- 
portable. I was, therefore, glad to get out again into 
the sweet, natural air, and forget them for ever. 

There is a broad, pleasant road, bordered with cac- 
tus, leading up to the Propylaea entrance of the Acropo- 
lis. From this spot the spectator looks across to the 
Areopagus, or Hill of Mars, where St. Paul's voice was 
raised in that stirring address, " Ye men of Athens," 
when a multitude gathered round him to hear the new 
thing that should resound into the future, and spread 
the Gospel of truth from pole to pole. 

A Greek woman and two children were sitting under 
the shade of a large cactus near me, in the enjoyment 



GREEK MEN AND WOMEN. 



21 



of air and sunshine, while one of her class., in the cold 
North, would have been cooking over a fire ; and a 
horseman was coming leisurely up the road, patting his 
white steed. These men ride well, and look very gal- 
lant and manly ; but the women are not at all so well 
set off by their dress, their figures being heavy, and 
many of them wearing an embroidered kerchief wound 
round the head, sometimes with a great mass of hair 
interwoven in its folds, which has rather a heavy ap- 
pearance. Later in the day I saw a group of peasantry, 
with their mules, who had evidently come from some 
distance. Both men and women wore a skirt of coarse 
kerseymere, old and worn, but edged with a pattern 
w r orked in black, a cloak edged in the same way, and a 
hood with similar trimming and long ends hanging 
down behind. Their dark faces, contrasted with their 
white garments, had a very striking appearance. The 
mother was mounted on one of the mules, but all the 
rest were on foot. Strings of fowls hung over the 
necks of the mules ; and as they came into the city, 
they would lift off one of these strings of poultry, and 
hold them up to people at their windows, offering them 
for sale, ana replacing them when rejected. The poor 
little bipeds seemed, as far as I could judge, not at all 
uncomfortable in their peculiar position. 

In contrast to this party was a young Greek, with 
two friends walking on each side, to whom he was talk- 
ing with great animation. He was handsomely, and even 
expensively dressed. His jacket was covered with gold 



22 



A GREEK WEDDING. 



braid, as were also his leggings and red cap, from which 
hung a gold tassel. His red under-vest was enclosed 
by a rich girdle, clasping his wasp-like waist, which the 
full skirt of his white kilt showed off to advantage. 
There is one class who wear the bonnet rouge, with a 
peculiar plait in it, red leggings, and vest. The Greek 
men all walk with a stately tread. Large, heavy-made 
men they are, looking as if they had a will of their own, 
and would be obstinate and determined if anyone op- 
posed them. This day I visited the new Greek church, 
which has much gilding, a profusion of colours, and many 
white marble columns. In the evening, a marriage 
ceremony was performed in the large saloon of the 
Hotel d'Angleterre. The whole suite of rooms engaged 
for it were lighted up with rows of candles over all the 
doors, besides the usual chandeliers and lamps. The 
company all arrived before the bride made her appear- 
ance — ladies in full evening dress, of white or pink 
silk ; some officers in uniform, and many wearing the 
effective national costume, which, whether on horseback, 
walking, or in the dress-circle, always looks well. The 
Archbishop Germano (who raised the standard of the 
Cross in the war of independence in 1821), and five 
priests, were present to officiate. The former is a fine, 
dignified-looking old man, with handsome features. 
When I entered, he was sitting on one of the sofas 
amidst the general company, attired in his black robe 
and high cap, distinguished only by a gold chain and 
cross from the other priests. When the bride, however, 



THE BRIDE AND BRIDEGROOM. 



23 



accompanied by her parents, came in, he threw off his 
black robe, and advanced to the table in the centre of 
the room, robed in vestments of silk and gold. The 
whole company gathered round this table, the bride and 
bridegroom opposite the archbishop. The former, who 
was a gentle-looking woman, with soft, dark eyes and 
hair, was dressed in striped white silk, and wore no 
veil; the latter was a tall, manly -looking fellow, with the 
chest of a Hercules, wearing the Albanian blue-braided 
jacket, with pistols and dagger thrust into his belt ; and 
he looked as if he could use them if occasion required 
their active display. 

In the hand both of bride and bridegroom was placed 
a wax candle, from which long ends of white ribbon 
were suspended. The priests, on each side of the arch- 
bishop, bore, one of them two candles crossed, the other 
three, and the remaining priests, each holding an open 
book and candle, ch aim ted, except one man, attired in 
black, who kept reading out something in one tone 
during the whole ceremony. The most interesting part of 
the service was when the archbishop came to the candi- 
dates for matrimony with two rings, which he put on 
their fingers over the white gloves. After exchanging 
them several times, the father of the bride took the 
husband's hand, and put his daughter's into it, the 
two remaining thus clasped till the immolation of the 
victims was accomplished. During the whole time 
they stood side by side, always facing the archbishop, 
while the chaunting and droning of the priests 



24 



A GREEK FUNERAL. 



was continued without interruption. Two white 
wreaths were placed on their heads, the gallant Al- 
banian, thus crowned, looking like Mars, so bold and 
erect was his mien. Each then received a teaspoonful 
of wine, and was led three times round the table, during 
which peregrination they were gravely pelted with 
sugar-plums by the priests, who, bearing candles, went 
round also. This was the completion of the service. 
They had still, however, to remain standing, while 
their near relations passed before them, and kissed them 
both, after which they took their places on one of the 
sofas, and received the congratulations of the company. 
Trays of comfits, with wine and sweet cakes, were now 
handed round, while the ears of the guests were de- 
lighted with music, which continued to be played for 
about a quarter of an hour, till the wedded pair passed 
down the stairs. 

Some days after this I was present at a funeral. 
While sitting in a little grove, listening to the faint 
ripple of the Ilyssus, the forerunners of what I 
guessed to be one crossed the bridge above. As I was 
desirous of seeing the ceremony, I hurried up the slope, 
and was in time to see the cortege. The coffin, which 
was of scarlet, and adorned with a gilt cross, was borne 
on two men's shoulders, two women and a lad coming 
immediately after it. Four priests, and a few funeral 
assistants, wearing black robes edged with white, and 
with a white cross on the back, and about thirty people 
followed. On arriving at the cemetery, the body was 



MOUNT LYCABETTUS. 



25 



rapidly put under the earth, after which some bedding 
was burned beside the grave, the women remaining close 
to it, while the rest of the company sat at some distance, 
partaking of refreshment. As the linen and pillow were 
laid on the earth, it was difficult to raise a flame with 
such heavy materials, but whenever the fire slumbered, 
the men did their best to revive it again, Altogether 
there was a strange commingling of barbarism and 
civilization, of Heathenism and of Christianity, in the 
ceremonies with which the poor corpse was committed 
to the earth. 

The cemetery is about ten minutes' distance from the 
bridge. The monuments scattered over it have mostly 
classical emblems, figures weeping over an urn, a censer 
with incense rising from it, or a figure extinguishing 
a torch. At the head of each of the mounds beneath 
which the dead reposed, were two stakes covered 
with red. 

One fine morning I ascended Mount Lycabettus, a 
rock-tipped eminence, between two and three hundred 
feet in height, rising behind the University, and con- 
spicuous from every part of Athens. An immense frag- 
ment of rock is stationed, as it were, at a point one- 
third of the way up, above which is a little hermitage, 
close under the rocks that form the summit. To gain 
the top one must go round the mount, and find an 
access over the rocks to the chapel seen from below. 
The view from the summit is magnificent. The whole 
plain of Athens, and the surrounding mountains, Fen- 



26 



THE KYNOSARGE. 



telicus, Mount Hymettus, over the gulf of iEgina, the 
Piraeus, and Salamis, are embraced in one view from 
that inspiring height. 

The page of history seemed unfolded to me while I 
gazed on sites renowned in the pages of classic lore, 
made famous by the deeds of heroes, or associated with 
the names of poets and sages, whose works, after the 
lapse of two thousand years, still remain models of all 
that is excellent in literature. The hills are purple, and 
sometimes of a faint blue. The air is so beautifully 
clear in Greece that the sight, piercing the distance, 
distinctly discerns objects which, if the sky were of a 
gloomier hue, it could obtain only an uncertain glimmer 
of. The absence of trees, however, is a great want, and 
even though marble abounds, the stony ground has a 
most desolate look. 

Lycabettus would have been a magnificent position 
for a temple ; more commanding even than the Acropo- 
lis. The little, mean, whitewashed chapel standing on 
it, dedicated to San Giorgio, might be replaced by some 
edifice more worthy of a spot so famous. Greece has 
abundance of marble — Pen telicus. is one mass of it. 
Has Greece no architect, and her sons throughout the 
world no wealth, to secure the execution of a work so 
desirable ? 

On the rising ground of this mount formerly stood 
a gymnasium, called the Kynosarge, at which, it is 
said, the Athenians returning from Marathon halted, to 
observe from the summit the direction taken by the 



BANKS OF THE ILYSSUS. 



27 



Persian fleet. In the days of Athens' greatest glory, 
what a picture must the spectator, who took his station 
on Mount Lycabettus, have looked down upon — temples, 
monuments, altars, places for public games capable of 
holding thirty thousand persons, and other magnificent 
edifices, that once adorned the city of Minerva, forming 
altogether a coup cVceil of unequalled beauty and 
grandeur ! If he now looks down from the same ele- 
vation, what a contrast does he behold — -little white 
modern houses, two stories high, built without any plan, 
according to the fancy and the means of their different 
owners; the only buildings of any pretension being 
the new Greek church and the University. Every- 
thing looks cheerful in the new portions of the modern 
city, but as if it never was destined to form a grand 
one, or to enter into the faintest competition with the 
style of the ruins. Ancient writers describe the woods 
and groves that once grew on the banks of the Ilyssus. 
Aristotle is mentioned as instructing his disciples under 
the shade of beautiful trees in the enceinte of the 
Lyceum, where, walking up and down, he delivered 
those lessons of wisdom which we now know as the 
Peripatetic philosophy. Now, alas ! the country is a 
desert. The ravages of war and of time have swept 
away those sacred groves, and we look in vain all around 
the city for a tree growing wild. The wearied pedes- 
trian sighs for one in the shade of whose branches he 
may find shelter from the -overpowering heat of the 
sun ; for the rows of pepper-trees planted along some 



28 ATHENIAN HOUSES. 

walks round the palace, and an extremely youthful 
and standing line of trees of some other description, 
marking with their lofty sweeping branches the course 
of a dusty road, are all that meet the eye of the 
traveller. Those which I saw, in the few gardens that 
came under my observation, must surely be highly valued 
by those who obtain the benefit of their shelter. I looked 
with extreme pleasure on a row of fruit-trees, the beau- 
tiful blossom of which I could perceive from my window ; 
and at this early period in the year, 1 inhaled with de- 
light the delicious perfume of large trees of yellow 
jasmine, in certain carefully-tended gardens attached to 
dwellings of an evidently superior order. The houses to 
which I refer are of dimensions exceeding most in 
this modest little city. The interiors of such of those 
more imposing specimens of Athenian architecture as I 
have seen, are prettily arranged. The house in which 
I am at present located, is entered by an airy and 
lofty entrance, the walls of which are built inside of 
stone, or marble of various colours ; and a wide double 
staircase leads to the upper apartments. The enclosure, 
on which the windows of the several rooms look, is 
covered with a glass roof ; and galleries run round this 
inner court. Creeping plants, trained to hang in long 
festoons from the roof, arch over a time-piece, and shade 
a charming singing-bird, whose joyous notes resound 
through the whole abode. It is pleasant on a moonlight 
night to sit at one of the windows, and observe the 
waltzers as they merrily circle on the smooth pavement 



GREEK SCHOOL-GIRLS. 



29 



of the court Such a style of house is only fit for a 
summer clime like this of Greece. 

After a long day's rambling, I was sitting to enjoy 
the approach of sunset on a rocky eminence surmounted 
by a modern observatory, with windows of coloured 
glass, and a cupola adorned with gilt stars and lines, 
when I was surrounded by a dozen merry children, who 
had come up the steep clambering like little kids. On 
questioning them, I learned that they were all at school 
in Athens, with the wife of the English clergyman. The 
prettiest amongst them (a little, fair thing, with dancing 
blue eyes and high colour, who caught up my little 
white pet, and nursed it on her red petticoat, in the 
intervals of caressing), pointing to her companions, 
said, " That one is from Constantinople, that from Alex- 
andria, this from Chalcis, these from Athens — all Greeks 

but me." " And she's the child L , of the ," 

said one of the group, in broken English. And I then 
observed, what I had not perceived before, that my little 
countrywoman's hat was trimmed with ribbon having an 
anchor in front over her blue eyes, to mark her naval 
parentage. And, truly, the sailor's daughter was as 
pretty a specimen of Albion's fair as could be wished. 
After I had chatted for a few moments with the happy 
little group, they bade me farewell ; and I saw them 
bound down the hill, leaving me quite the better for 
their improvise visit. I had been yielding to those 
melancholy feelings which the lonely traveller at a dis- 
tance from home cannot always -resist, when my unex- 



30 



TEMPLE OF JUPITER OLYMPUS. 



pected rencontre with these merry little ones, so gentle 
and attractive in their manners, restored me to myself, 
and left a pleasing impression. 

This hill commands a charming prospect at sunset. 
Here we look down on the ruins of the Acropolis and 
the Temple of Theseus, lighted up by the glow which 
the setting sun throws over the country ; and there is 
the shining sea outside the Pirseus, the tall masts in the 
harbour, and the line of mountains behind Salamis, with 
a background of burnished clouds. It is a great plea- 
sure at Athens that the ruins can be enjoyed in an 
evening walk. None of them are so far from the town 
as to make a solitary stroll unsafe or inconvenient, and 
the lonely scenes amid which they are situated are 
quite exempt from noise or annoyance. 

February 12th. — I strolled down in the quiet time, 
which in all countries of the sweet South is known as dopo 
mezzo giorno, to look particularly at the Cyclopean founda- 
tion wall of the Temple of Jupiter Olympus, which is said 
to have been the largest temple erected in honour of the 
great ideal personage occupying the first place in the wor- 
ship of the Pagans who were permitted for so many years 
to lord it over the earth. From the distance at which the 
few remaining pillars stand, the effect produced by its 
magnitude can be faintly imagined. Its size must have 
been overwhelming. 

I then went on to the Theatre of Bacchus. Sitting 
down in the marble chairs, I saw before me the stage 
beside which the chorus repeated the verses of Sophocles 



RUINS OF THE PARTHENON. 



31 



and Euripides, the immense semi-circle occupied by 
seats for an audience of thousands upon thousands, an 
assemblage which must have formed a grander spectacle 
than any made by the exertions of the actors themselves. 
There was, indeed, no space for anything like scenic 
effect in the arrangement of these ancient theatres, 
though the interest which could call so numerous an 
assembly together must have been of rather a higher 
order than the spectacle offered by modern theatrical 
enterprise. We can, indeed, easily conceive how the 
spirit of that excited populace must have been moved 
by the representation of their grand historic reminis- 
cences, and by the utterance of exalted sentiments and 
patriotic feeling, awakening that enthusiasm for the 
public good which afterwards found expression in so 
many acts of devoted heroism. 

T entered the gate admitting to the ruins of the 
Parthenon, at the same time that a group of Greeks, 
who seemed to have been waiting for admission, went 
in. Attended by a guard, these countrymen of Leoni- 
das and Themistocles examined all the temples, linger- 
ing about to examine the architecture, leaning against 
the columns, and contemplating the fragments with ap- 
parent attention and interest. Another company, who 
had entered with two priests, I observed doing their 
utmost to decipher the letters on fallen pieces of sculp- 
ture. Fortunately, on the occasion of my visit there 
was not one party of those English, French, or German 
sight-seers, who do their utmost to disturb the reflections 



32 



THE ACROPOLIS. 



of those whose deepest feelings are moved by these 
venerable remains of the past. Athens has a 
great advantage over Rome in this respect, that it 
is too remote for the ordinary run of Cockney sight- 
seers. 

My next visit was to the Acropolis. The day de- 
voted to that citadel of ancient Athens, the sun, after 
three days of storm and tempest, shining out with un- 
usual brilliancy, revealing everything to us in its most 
favourable aspect. The amber tint which, in these 
Southern lands, time has given to the ranges of columns, 
seemed to take a warmer glow under the influence of that 
rich and mellow light. As I walked along the out- 
ward limits of the whole fortress, the mountains behind 
Salamis appeared clearly defined, some other mountain 
tops, not always visible, rising in the clear, transparent 
atmosphere sharply and distinctly above them. Indeed, 
a whole panorama of places celebrated by the historic 
muse was revealed to my eager gaze. There was the 
long range of Hymettus, Mount Pentelicus, Mount 
Parr.r^ and all the undulating hills below, with the wide 
plain and its olive-wood in the centre, the roads to 
Marathon and Eleusis, and the city of Athens itself, 
with the numerous poor huts at the foot of the Acropo- 
lis. Continuing to turn my gaze on the other objects 
of interest in this impressive prospect, I beheld the 
white palace and the pale green University, the gaily- 
coloured new Greek church, and the grassy eminences 
of the Colline des Xymphes, des Muses, the Hill of 



THE PROPYLiEA. 



33 



Mars, the Temple of Theseus, always presenting so 
grand an outline from whatever point it meets the eye. 
In that enviable atmosphere of Greece, every object 
within the spectator's horizon, however distant within 
that limit, seemed as clearly defined as those that were 
nearest to him. 

A guard, speaking only Greek, was sent round with 
me. As my knowledge of that language is extremely 
limited, I enjoyed the opportunity of wandering about 
the ruins without the torment of explanations, which, 
even from those best calculated to give them in detail, 
amount, too frequently, to little more than conjecture. 
Though the grand approach to the Propylsea is by some 
considered to have been divided, I please myself with 
the idea of its immense width, uninterrupted, having 
been constructed to form a slope, with the marble 
roughened and indented. The hollow way in the centre, 
the trace of which is apparent, might have been arched 
over, and doubtless served for an ingress beneath, 
leaving the grand stair sacred from all ignoble use. 
Then, what a magnificent sweep the rise to the gate- 
ways must have presented, with the ascent of that 
marble-clothed slope, the white columns, and the five 
doorways ! 

While surveying, with all the interest which it natu- 
rally excited, this impressive scene, my attention was 
attracted by a little bit of sculpture, which lay, half- 
covered with coarse grass, at my feet, and which, on 
examination, I found represented a priestess preceded 

D 



34 



SCENE OF DEVASTATION. 



by twelve figures bearing tambours. The immense 
square tower is a horrible deformity to the whole Acropo- 
lis ; and the pedestal of the statue of Agrippa is hardly 
tolerable. These two erections much annoy the eye, 
being so out of keeping with the elegant architecture of 
the temples ; but they are so massive, that it would be 
a work of great difficulty to remove them. 

What a lamentable scene of devastation the platform 
presents ! — masses of exquisite frieze, the tops of columns, 
and bands of marble, the workmanship of which is as 
light as if they were made of twisted ribbon, all lying 
about on the fine grass, of which there is an abundant 
growth. The surface of the ground, too, is much hacked 
and dug up where excavations have been made. 

A few sheep were peacefully grazing about on the 
hillocks, and some little children were at play on a spot 
where, doubtless, war and its horrors had once been so 
rife. Indeed, I had ocular testimony of this fact, for, 
on looking into what appeared the bed of a cistern, I 
beheld a number of human skulls and bones. The emi- 
nence, at some now remote period, was planted round 
with olive-trees, which, contrasting with the ancient 
architecture, must have had a most charming effect. 
Many a contemplative sage may have taken his evening 
walk beneath their shade. Would there were such a 
border now overtopping those rough walls ! The earth 
in which the trees were planted was washed away by 
storms ; and in warfare their trunks were used to com- 
plete the defences. 



THE PANTHEON. 



35 



I entered the Pantheon this day by the eastern side, 
and sat long among those enormous blocks of snowy mar- 
ble which have fallen in. The statue of the goddess, 
once enshrined in this magnificent temple, was formed 
partly of gold and partly of ivory. Occupying the centre 
of the fane, with her shield beside her and her right arm 
outstretched holding the javelin, she sat guarded by two 
sacred serpents, for whom cakes of honey were daily 
made in the temple. One account says the serpents 
were kept in the portico ornamented with the statues 
of nymphs before noticed — I suppose when off duty ! 
I went through the double row of columns on each side 
of the Parthenon, and remarked that about six were want- 
ing near the centre, so that the temple is as it were 
divided into two parts. This mischief is said to have 
been done by the explosion of a powder magazine, into 
which a bomb fired when the Doge Morosini was besieg- 
ing the Acropolis came crashing. The Propylgea are 
said to have been overthrown by a similar accident, 
though not caused by the enemy. Demetrius, one of the 
tyrants of Athens, coming up to live in the Acropolis, 
made these precincts, which were regarded as sacred, a 
scene of banquetting and unseemly riot, in the midst of 
which much mischief was done. 

Under Turkish rule the female household of the Pasha 
were established in that part of the Propylsea now called 
the Pinacotheca site. This beautiful site, into which I 
would have gladly gone up and lived in it for a time, 
has been turned in the course of time to very various 



36 



THE TEMPLE OF THESEUS. 



purposes. Flocks of sheep and kids, grazing on the 
steep outside the walls, gave a very peaceful aspect to 
the approach to the Acropolis. The Pinacotheca contains 
such remains of sculpture as have been found about the 
temples, and which, though small in size, are too valu- 
able to be left lying on the ground. One part is devoted 
to feet and hands, another to heads. My attention was 
particularly attracted by a noble head with an expres- 
sion of such calm dignity, that as I stood to make my 
comments on it I seemed to myself to be taking quite 
a liberty. 

My long lingering visit was at last over. The patient 
guard who had been denied the privilege of expatiating 
on so remarkable a specimen of his country's glory had cer- 
tainly merited a handsome gratuity. From thence I went 
to the temple of Theseus, a noble structure, which was 
erected about thirty years before the Parthenon. It is 
said to have been built in order to receive the remains 
of the hero whose name it bears, which are said to have 
been discovered in a neighbouring island, and to have 
been brought with great pomp to* Athens. " The peo- 
ple," writes an old author, " seemed as frantic with joy 
as if they had found Theseus' living self." The propor- 
tions of the temple are admirable, and considering that 
it has withstood the ravages of time, war, and pillage 
for more than two thousand years, its state of preser- 
vation is wonderful. The marble has taken from the 
sun a deep tinge, which I can only compare to rust, and 
yet the colour has a warm beauty in that clear atmo- 



WOODEN ROOM OF THE CUSTODE. 



37 



sphere. Approached from the road leading to the Piraeus 
the temple stands on a slight elevation, a rising ground 
clothed with the prickly pear, aloe, and other shrubs. 
The platform beyond, extending nearly to the base of 
the Acropolis, is a fine open space, round part of which 
pieces of sculpture are arranged, among which I ob- 
served one immense statue of a female figure without a 
head, in drapery. There are also several tombs, &c, in this 
locality. The grassy eminences of the hills of the Nymphs 
andof the Muses, and the height of the Acropolis, terminate 
the view agreeably, though the huts and hovels to the left 
constitute about the worst part of Athens. The custode 
has his little wooden room close by, its two minute win- 
dows looking one to the Acropolis, the other to the tem- 
ple itself, while the door opens on some chef d'csuvres of 
Grecian art. Many an enthusiastic amateur would be 
ready to exchange a more costly and luxurious one with 
this old man ; and his son and servant, who wear the 
Greek dress, look very well content with their position. 
They have their pet singing bird in its cage, their little 
dog and cat, their bread, olives, and figs, and with these 
humble means they appear happy. It was once my 
fortune to seek shelter in their hut during a terrific 
storm. They opened the temple, first, as a more desir- 
able place for refuge; but when one looked upon a pillar 
which had been split by lightning in a similar tempest, 
one could scarcely regard it as a place of security. 

By a sudden rose-coloured flash of lightning I saw 
the celebrated " Soldier of Marathon," a piece of sculp- 



38 



BAS-RELIEFS, 



ture enclosed in a case like a mummy, with a glass 
cover. Though the figure is of great height, the face 
and features are small, and wear a melancholy expres- 
sion. The hand grasps the sword in the belt, as if 
about to draw it, the face is in profile, and the armour 
is finely wrought. The temple is entirely filled with 
pieces of sculpture and bas-relief. Amongst the. latter 
one is pointed out as representing the death of Socrates. 
The sage appears to be sitting upon a sort of couch, 
addressing two or three persons beside him, and two 
little boys, with their fingers at their eyes, are perceived 
coming in at the edge. 

Among the bas-reliefs was one representing warriors 
taking leave of a female sitting in a chair, over the 
straight back of which a young maiden or two 
were leaning, while a small urchin below was pouting. 
Among several on which betrothments are depicted, 
one in which a woman is perceived raising her veil 
is much admired. What struck me most was an 
immense tablet, bearing three persons of more than life 
size, a noble-looking man, a dignified woman, and a boy 
standing between them ; the mother's hand resting 
on the boy's head, as if consigning him to the father's 
care, on his first departure from home for the battle- 
field. 

If the exterior of this temple still remains entire, it 
is only because pillagers have found it impossible to 
carry anything away. The interior is stripped en- 
tirely bare, even the pavement having been taken up 



SOLEMNITY IN HONOUR OF THESEUS. 



30 



by some Turk so lately, it is stated, as 1760, to grind 
into lime for a house he was building. The interior is 
dark, with only a small aperture or two in the roof, I 
could not learn which of the sarcophagi was conjectured 
to be that in which the bones of Theseus were gathered. 
This hero had been dead eight hundred years when his 
shadow was believed to have been seen fighting for the 
Greeks at Marathon, a sight which raised the enthu- 
siasm of his countrymen to such a pitch that they gained 
the victory. Tradition also says that the place of his 
sepulture, a cave in the isle of Scyros, was revealed in 
a dream. After the hero's remains had been conveyed 
to Athens, the place where his body had lain continued 
for centuries to be the object of the dearest patriotic 
feelings of the Athenians, and to this day his memory 
is commemorated by an annual solemnity, which is at 
least interesting as being national. On the third day 
of Easter, a dance called the Labyrinth, which Theseus 
himself is said to have executed on his return from 
Crete, and which was formerly gone through with great 
ceremonies by the young Athenians on a certain day, is 
performed near the temple. 

I saw to-day a dance which, from its intricacy, might 
have been the same, and perhaps was performed in pre- 
paration for Easter. Eight young persons, with long 
coloured ribbons suspended from a pole made to look 
like a tree, danced round it, darting in and out and 
through each other, each one still holding his own ribbon, 
and forming gradually a pattern with them all above. 



40 



AGREEABLE WALK. 



They wore swords, and each different movement was 
entered on after an interval marked by a clash of instru- 
ments. The group, which was surrounded at every 
pause, was on its way towards the Piraeus. 

There is a superstition extant that if a sick horse is 
led two or three times round the temple, the probability 
of his recovery is greater. 

There is an agreeable walk along the road passing 
the side of the palace, and continuing by one rounding 
the base of Mount Lycabettus, refreshed by a pleasant 
breeze from the sea, of which there is also a view from 
it. A Greek church and convent, with three domes, is 
perceived just off this road. Large flocks of sheep, with 
their shepherds, are seen sociably gathered in a company, 
taking their evening meal, with two or three dutiful 
dogs, dividing their attention between expectant scraps 
and the movements of their fleecy charges. The town 
has no lingering suburbs, but seems to terminate at 
once in a region devoid of habitations. There is no 
extended drive of any interest except to Eleusis, on the 
road to which is one of the best views, looking back on 
Athens, or to some more distant point, such, for in- 
stance, as Pentelicus or Hymettus. Arriving at the 
base of these mountains, a carriage is of no further use. 
The journey must be prosecuted on horseback to a 
certain distance, and the remainder of the ascent made 
on foot. 

My last evening at Athens having arrived, just as the 
sun had sunk I mounted the Acropolis, to take a fare- 



FAREWELL LOOK. 



41 



well look. The sea was still tinged with a warm hue, and 
the coast and mountains wore a deep shade of purple. 
The lofty pillars of the temple of Jupiter Olympus pre- 
sented an aspect of increased grandeur in the dim light, 
and seemed to loom -moodily over the vast space on 
which they stood. At the termination of the carnival, 
I was informed that it is a custom with the Athenian 
people to assemble there in a sort of general pic-nic. 



42 



CHAPTER TIT. 



Departure for Smyrna — Voyage to that City— Landing — Pont des Cara- 
vans — Moslem — Call to Prayer — The Mosque — The Bazaar — Gene- 
ral view of Smyrna — Chateau St. Pierre — The Interior of a Mosque 
■ — What came of being there — Soldiers' Monument — Hotels— Row 
across the Bay — Beside the Bay. 



EBPOTARY 2 1st. — I left Athens between two and 



three o'clock, and arrived, in less than an hour, 
at the Piraeus, encountering, en route, some very powerful 
gusts of wind, against which the horses could scarcely 
make their way for some minutes. As I passed through 
the new garden, a military band, stationed within a little 
orchestra erected in the centre, was exerting its powers 
to please some groups of Greek families and strangers 
promenading. A dusty-looking hotel, with a line of 
houses, and a little Greek church, formed on two sides 
a sort of frame for the garden outside its palings ; the 
side next the sea was open, with just a sufficiently 
wide space for a few carriages to assemble in waiting. 
I believe there is also another hotel close by, facing the 
harbour. 

The office of the Austrian Lloyds is at the Pirasus. 
My billet to Smyrna, seventy francs, and my careful at- 
tendant, put me comfortably and quietly on board the 




SCIO. 



43 



Orient, for Syra. At the Piraeus, there seems to be none 
of the bustle usual in disembarking or embarking, and 
the boatmen appeared to be very civil As we were to 
start at six, we had time to sit on deck and look around 
us. I observed several boats full of native passengers 
of the humbler class arrive before the American party 
came. Amongst the Greeks were a family of four, 
an old woman, a little girl, and two young men. The 
mother, it appeared, was going to Mitylene ; and one 
of the sons, who spoke a little French, and manifested 
much affection for her, begged that I would take her 
under my protection. Poor thing ! I thought of her 
during the night of storm we had. The cabin chairs 
dashed from one side to another, while, with the other 
deck passengers, she was exposed to all the fury of the 
elements above ; and yet, such are the conventionali- 
ties of life, that I could not exchange with her the 
comparative comfort which was to me a matter of in- 
difference. 

We arrived at Syra about seven in the morning, made 
the " trasbordo " to the Schild steamer, and left for 
Smyrna at four in the afternoon ; the wind, meanwhile, 
having fortunately calmed down. Morning brought us 
to Scio, the ancient Chios. The capital, and a village 
near it, occupy the centre of a wide stretch of undu- 
lating land, some of which looked fertile and woody, a 
relief to any eyes that had looked on nothing for a month 
or two but the treeless Greek coast. Leaving this in- 
teresting little island, we continued our voyage, in sight 



44 



SMYRXA. 



of the high coast of Asia Minor, which some of us had 
little expected ever to see in the course of our lives, 
stretching along to the east, till it was broken by the 
wide and grand opening of the Gulf of Smyrna. The 
strait by which we approached it, formed by some 
island, was quite narrow, and we could see the goats 
browsing on the promontory, a lighthouse on which 
made known to mariners the way by which they could 
safely enter or make their exit. 

Severe weather drove us poor ladies below for an 
hour or so ; and when I came up, we were nearing 
a neck of land, with some high poplar-trees, on 
passing which we were in the Lower Gulf of Smyrna, 
and opposite the city itself. Smyrna occupies a most 
admirable position, in a plain on the brink of the sea ; 
and with the mountains, of various size and height 
which form its background, presents a very striking pic- 
ture. The heights in view were strewn with snow, and 
rain dimmed the beauty of the prospect before we came 
to an anchor. Meanwhile, boats came clustering round 
us, and four heavy-looking Turks in one made us under- 
stand that they represented the Dogana, and must 
" examine our luggage/' a suggestion which, made as it 
was in the midst of pelting rain, and with a wet boat, 
was, as may well be imagined, enough to throw three 
ladies, already tired, frightened, and excited, into a state 
of absolute despair. The gentlemen's persuasive propo- 
sition of " backsheesh," however, was at once pleasing- 
ly assented to by the doughty officials, and we rowed on 



THE CEMETERY. 



45 



to a landing-place, from which a most dreary-looking, 
water-clogged lane led to the "Deux Auguste," a com- 
fortless, dull house, all whose windows looked against 
dead walls. To seek for any other resting-place, how- 
ever, seemed, in our circumstances, impossible, and we 
tried to warm and dry ourselves in rooms that were 
never intended to afford either comfort in the mildest 
form. 

Next morning rose bright and tine, and after calling 
on the Consul, whom I found sitting in a pleasant sunny 
room, with a wood fire blazing cheerily on the hearth, 
and Her Majesty's picture, fair and young, in the early 
days of her sovereignty, hanging over the mantel-piece. 
I left the rest of the party to linger about among shops, 
and set off for the Pont des Caravanes, passing up one 
nicely-paved street (a distinction, indeed, in Smyrna). 
The others, however, I soon found so bad, that in order 
to prevent the necessity of wading through the numer- 
ous formidable -looking lakes at the crossings, the guide, 
at my request, procured me a mule. I think it must 
have been an hour ere we reached the cemetery, where, 
under the cypress-trees, w r ere the stones surmounted by 
the marble turban, the tasselled fez, or the flower 
showing the humble Turk's, the soldier's, and the female's 
resting-place. I did not enter, but pressing on to the 
bridge, went into a garden to observe its picturesque 
arch, and look at the camels lying down on part of the 
river's stony bed. The Meles here flows with great 
rapidity, and, after heavy rains, is so swollen as to 



46 



CAMELS. 



constitute a formidable current, coming down from the 
mountains. In summer this garden forms, on Fridays, 
a popular place of meeting for the Turks. The Moslem 
dispose themselves under the spreading branches of two 
or three trees, phlegmatically smoking, and sometimes 
speaking. To say, as some guide-books do, that they 
promenade, is an assertion not at all descriptive of their 
behaviour. 

Strings of camels are constantly passing over the 
bridge, in summer's heat and winter's cold, at early 
dawn and at closing eve. This patient and useful 
animal, here in its own clime, has an expressive cast of 
countenance. I was never so much struck by the 
difference in their faces, some being far handsomer 
than others, more gentle or more fierce in their expres- 
sion. Those of a dark hue were in general the finest 
animals. There was great variety, too, in their colour, 
some being of the light hue of a sheep, others of a brown 
so dark as to be nearly black. A light chain hangs from 
the hinder trappings of one camel to the head harness 
of another, along the whole train. . Immense sacks, 
stuffed with wool, support the piles of merchandise 
which they carry to and from the interior of Asia. 
Old Bible scenes and stories rose in my mind as I 
gazed upon them, and tales of the desert, in which I had 
delighted in childhood, recurred to my remembrance 
as I looked on the mountains amongst which those steady 
patient messengers pursued their way day after day, 
week after week, bringing from lands hundreds of miles 



A MOSQUE IN SMYRNA. 



47 



distant the produce we require for the satisfaction of our 
wants in Europe. 

As I returned to the city, the Fakirs on two minarets 
were calling out to prayer at noonday, " to thank Allah 
that that hour was come." These ministers of Turkish 
devotion move to each quarter of the tower, and curv- 
ing the hands before the mouth, modulate their words 
in a kind of chaunt that sounds soothingly through the 
air, especially when heard at a distance. The cry is 
taken up from minaret to minaret, being repeated at 
one as it dies away at another. In the Turkish quarter, 
as usual, the windows were all protected by iron bars, 
and the houses were secured by massive doors. 

The neighbourhood of a Mussulman's habitation is as 
quiet as the precincts of convents in an Italian or 
Spanish city. In my progress through the city I 
arrived at a large mosque, where all the population 
of the district seemed assembled. Some of the 
multitude were sitting cross-legged outside the doors, 
the interior being densely crowded. By the light of 
chandeliers I could see that the great space in the in- 
terior was occupied by thousands of heads. Outside 
the portico were some poor beings and a few women, who 
dared not intrude further. My guide wished to draw 
my mule to the entrance gate, that I might get down 
and see what was going on ; but the guards objected to 
the animal as well as to its rider. I observed several 
men washing their feet at the fountain before the mosque, 
previous to entering the sacred building. 



48 THE BELL-TOWER. 

I soon made my way to the Bazaar, where I saw 
some suits of women's dress, red silk pantaloons, a flow- 
ing mantle of yellow satin, a jacket of gold-braided 
crimson silk, &c. Veiled women were at the different 
stalls making purchases, attended by Nubian female 
slaves. As I looked at them I seemed to be re-reading 
descriptions which I had once read in books of the living 
realities now before ine. It was altogether a most 
striking scene, with merchants sitting on their carpets 
outside the stalls, and camels making their way through 
the sombre avenues, crowded with dark and swarthy 
faces. This spectacle, however, in which many, doubtless, 
novel as it was, might find much to interest them, failed 
to engage my attention for any time, at least on this 
first survey. I therefore left it, and went up a bell 
tower in form of a cross, the stone of which is in open- 
work all through, forming the entrance gate to a hand- 
some church dedicated to a female saint and martyr, 
believed by tradition to have been the woman of 
Samaria, converted by that blessed interview with the 
weary traveller, whose words, as he sat to rest beside 
the cool well, had such a blessed effect on his hearer. 
Oh ! sweet example, left us by our loving Friend to 
improve all occasions for the good of others ! 

The tower is, perhaps, not more than a hundred feet 
in height ; but from its uppermost balcony there is a 
most superb and interesting view over the whole of 
Smyrna and the neighbourhood. Looking seaward, 
you have on the left hand the new Turkish quarter, 



BOOJEAH AND BOORNABAT. 



49 



situated on rising ground, and the old Turkish quarter, 
with that of the Jews between them. On the right is 
the quarter frequented by the Franks ; immediately below, 
and stretching out beyond, the American quarter, to- 
wards the Pont des Caravanes ; and the Greek quarter 
behind. The village of Boojeah lies beyond the Meles 
(the course of which can be traced), towards the moun- 
tains ; and also that of Boornabat, both places of summer 
visiting and amusement, about five miles in different 
directions from Smyrna. The sea and harbour form a 
delicious panorama in front. In the court of the church 
and convent described above is a fine tree of large size. 
It is altogether a place of marvellous tranquillity, in the 
midst of so populous and thriving a city. I would 
advise every traveller to mount the tower on the first 
day of his stay in Smyrna, to mark the divisions of the 
city and its position with respect to the suburbs. If 
he does this with care and attention, he will scarce need 
a guide afterwards. 

25th. — Pouring rain was the first greeting which I 
received this morning. As I sat at breakfast, an English 
lady in the house went off with her baby, recently born 
in that ancient city, to have it christened. Her hus- 
band and a friend accompanied her, the whole party, 
with the nurse, being stuffed into a carriage of very 
questionable cleanliness. As they stepped in, they 
found it necessary to protect themselves with umbrellas 
from the dripping house-door streams which descended 
upon them. On the whole, I never saw a more com- 

E 



50 



CHATEAU DE ST. PIERRE, 



fortless-looking christening-party ; and the poor little 
thing seemed to be of the same opinion, for it screeched 
frantically all day after it returned, as if making its 
protest against the fate which had decreed that it should 
first see the light in a Moslem land. 

After mid-day, as the rain ceased, I issued into the 
dirty lanes constituting the thoroughfares of Smyrna, 
and kept near the sea, emerging only when an opening 
presented itself, an opportunity which rarely occurs, 
except at the side of a cafe. These places occupy every 
available position on the bay, over which they stand, on 
rafts and piles. Most of them have steps down to the 
water ; and a party of young midshipmen came to the 
foot of one as I was looking out over the pleasant waves. 
There is no agreeable place where ladies can sit to enjoy 
the beauty of the sea, no promenade where they can 
enjoy a quiet walk. 

The guides here occasionally require a little direction 
from the traveller, otherwise they are sure to omit some 
object of interest. Mine, for instance, would have 
passed the ruins of the Chateau de St. Pierre, that ancient 
citadel defended so bravely by the knights of Rhodes, 
whose walls, black with age, have so long resisted the 
wearing hand of time and the shocks of so many earth- 
quakes, and as they still stand, preserve at least the 
outline of this celebrated fortress. The interior is en- 
tirely filled up with Turkish houses, and it was curious 
to look down from the battlements upon those partially- 
closed and jealously-guarded balconies. Some extremely 



THE GATEWAY. 



51 



pretty faces, holding the white muslin veil half across 
their features, peeped out from doors as we passed. 
This movement is instinctive in Eastern women, and is 
not without grace, however homely the apparel or the 
person. 

Nothing but the shell is left of this once formidable 
fortress, and it was nervous work clinging round the 
edges of the battlements. My attention was particularly 
directed to one little chamber with pink jalousies to its 
four side windows. The part of the building in which 
it was situated, rising above the other roofs within the 
dark walls, seemed, by its appearance, to suggest either 
that some mysterious story belonged to it, or that a 
Fatima, with weeping eyes, was gazing through the 
lattice, hoping vainly for deliverance. There is a tra- 
dition that a subterraneous passage exists between this 
fortress and another on the hill. I could not make out 
the postern by which the knights, when they had made 
up their minds that resistance was useless, escaped to 
their galleys ; but it is said still to exist. 

Looking back, after I had passed out of the gateway, 
I observed the Papal arms over it — an unexpected sight, 
indeed, to see such an emblem of Christianity in a 
Turkish citadel ; and from the fact that they had re- 
cently received a fresh cutting, evidently intended to be 
seen. The guide, observing how closely my attention 
was fixed on them, said, " Oh ! the keys of the fortress." 
A pamphlet on Smyrna, however, gives, as a reason for 
the care with which this Christian cognizance is preserved, 

E 2 



52 



INTERIOR OF A MOSQUE. 



some most seasonable help once afforded to Smyrna by 
Italy. 

I determined to endeavour, by some means or other, 
to obtain a sight of the interior of the mosque. I can 
scarcely say that permission to enter the precincts 
sacred to Mohammedan worship was granted to me, but 
it was not refused. With some misgiving, therefore, 
having taken off my shoes, I entered, my guide waiting 
outside, not being allowed, he said, to go in, but per- 
haps too scrupulous a Greek to put his foot within a 
Moslem house of prayer. Step by step I advanced, 
with a feeling almost as if I was dreaming, amongst the 
turbaned Turks. The centre of the mosque, to my 
astonishment^ was covered with Turkey carpets. At 
each of the two extremities was a platform, at each end 
of which, facing a group of cross-legged auditors, was 
a Fakir, who wore a turban^ preaching to the multi- 
tude, using a good deal of action, raising his hands 
upwards, and moving from side to side of his pulpit 
or chair. From the distance at which I stood they 
seemed, except, when they were moving about, to be 
sitting cross-legged too. The platforms were continued 
all round to the entrance door, and had light railings. 
Above was a gallery, and glass chandeliers hung from 
the dome or roof. On the white walls here and there 
were characters on a blue scutcheon, doubtless verses of 
the Koran. Groups of very venerable-looking men, 
with white beards and turbans, and generally thin faces, 
were standing together along the sides of the carpet, 



AN OVER-ZEALOUS MOSLEM. 



53 



the sound of their voices, as they talked or prayed, being 
heard as well as those of the four preachers. Some of 
the worshippers very civilly made way for me, and 
pointed out where I ought to go to secure the best post 
of observation. As I made my way as well as I could, 
a man with a pair of fiery eyes, and the dark face of an 
Arab, pulled me by the sleeve. I began to retreat im- 
mediately, not a little frightened, but an old Turk, after 
motioning me to keep my place, very unceremoniously 
boxed my rude assailant, and soundly thumped him out 
of the mosque, an act in which he was helped by one 
or two more, the infliction doubtless tending to the 
lasting increase of the Arab's zeal against the Giaour. 
After this disagreeable incident, a person showed me up 
to the gallery, in front of which a few were sitting 
listening to the Fakirs, and I might perhaps have 
quietly remained there some time, but fearful of 
awakening a second demonstration, and glad to resume 
my shoes, I soon rejoined my guide, who at once in- 
formed me of the frantic rage manifested by the over- 
zealous Moslem who had been expelled. Those who 
are about to visit the East may learn from my ex- 
perience that it is not always safe to intrude into a 
Turkish mosque. 

After leaving the temple of Mohammed, I went 
through more lanes, and over broken ground, past the 
house of the Pacha or Governor of Smyrna, and the 
hospital where so many of our own poor sufferers in the 
Crimean War breathed their last. The cemetery here, 
which extended up the hill, was strewn with flat stones, 



54 THE CEMETERY. 

* 

"with Hebrew characters, and generally a flower or de- 
vice before them, such being the memorials with which 
Israel's race honours the departed. There are no up- 
right monuments or ornamental figures. Above, to the 
left, under the cypresses, were the white turbans which 
marked the Turkish graves, and on the summit of the 
hill a plain monument of white marble, raised, according 
to the inscription upon it, by voluntary contribution, 
to the memory of those of our soldiers who died in the 
hospital at Smyrna. Their names are all carved in full on 
the stone. Amongst them are those of two nurses, 
whose lives, like theirs, were sacrificed in the fulfilment 
of duty. The monument, whose date, I believe, was 
1856, commands all the plain, and the surrounding 
mountains, the bay, and the wide sea beyond, along 
which our gallant troops sailed up, but a short time 
before, in strength, pride, and manliness. How many, 
alas ! soon returned, bowed down by suffering, maimed 
with wounds, worn out with fever, and even exhausted 
by famine, to remind us that thousands of the same 
gallant spirits lay in death's long sleep on the terri- 
ble battle-fields which they so gallantly contested and 
won. 

The ground is thrown up in three lines, like the en- 
closure of a camp edging the summit. At the base is 
a village, close to the water, and further on another 
cluster of houses; while beyond, amid the trees, is Karath, 
most of the houses of which have places for bathing 
attached to them. 



A FAMILY GROUP. 



55 



I went through the courts of the governor's house on 
returning. The houses forming one of the courts are 
used as a prison. The hour was just at hand for the 
Turks to break their fast, for it was the time of the 
Ramazan. My guide told me that a bit of bread about 
the size of his four ringers was all that was given to 
each of the prisoners. It made me shudder to see the 
eagerness with which the poor creatures, pressing their 
faces against the bars, anticipated the distribution 
even of that moderate allowance for their morning meal. 
The stalls, as we passed along, had been full of flat 
cakes, made in a particular way, to be eaten at this 
sacred time, and when we returned they had all disap- 
peared. The population, indeed, of the whole place 
seemed to be enjoying their early meal, for hissing and 
frying were going on on all sides. I saw to-day some- 
thing which more resembled a family group than any- 
thing I have yet witnessed amongst Turks, a man ac- 
companied by his wife and two children. The features 
of the woman, seen through her enveloping black veil, 
appeared to be very pretty. As she wore, however, 
the unshapely cloak with which they generally invest 
themselves, her figure, of course, looked clumsy. Ob- 
serving that I smiled at the children as I passed, she 
saluted me cordially. The man, who seemed to be 
going on some duty near the palace, quitted her at the 
foot of a lane, up which she went towards her home, 
with a child in each hand, just as one might see in 
England. 



56 



KARSTETH. 



A full band seemed to be going its rounds late in the 
evening ; for the nights of the Bamazan are joyous 
enough, and the Smyrna carnival is always gay. The 
hotels, however, are unfortunately placed in the dullest 
lanes of the city ; and, spite of their high prices, have 
not a single recommendation. One can ' neither see nor 
enjoy what is passing, nor get a glimpse of the sea ; 
except, indeed, in the " Europa," one of the neat bed- 
rooms of which looks to the bay, so far giving it the 
advantage over the " Deux Auguste." Although the 
entrance to it is down a long lane from Frank Street, 
on the whole it has a more cheerful aspect than the one 
in which I am ; and, perhaps, the proprietor is blessed 
with fewer olive branches, my host here rejoicing in no 
fewer than fifteen. 

Sunday, 26th, I attended service in the chapel at 
the English consulate. I came out after prayers, 
to contemplate the calm waters of the bay, and the 
scenery by which it is surrounded. I found that 
the feeling inspired by the spectacle of nature is as 
nourishing to the soul as half an hour's wordiness. I 
went in the course of the clay to Karsteth, to which I was 
slowly wafted over in a boat. It is rather a line, 
along the bay, of different houses, having places con- 
structed within piles projecting from them, than, as 

B 's guide says, a bathing-place. The Turkish 

houses, with jalousies even to the windows immediately 
over the waves, seemed quite empty of furniture ; and 
the want of trees and shade rendered them still more 



inE EXD OF RAMAZAN. 



57 



unattractive. A bridle path runs all along from the 
city, from which it is not more than an hour's walk. 

J 7 

Horses and people, en route, are constantly going to- 
wards the fort, which we passed when entering the bay 
in the steamer. 

I landed at a little wooden jetty, and ascending a 
slight eminence, which was rendered picturesque by 
a few olive-trees and rocky fragments, I sat down to 
admire the view. A Turkish ship of war, which was 
conspicuous on the waters, seemed, as if with a con- 
sciousness of its grander proportions and its higher des- 
tination, to look down with an expression of hauteur 
on the numerous steamers and merchant sail of all 
nations crowded nearer the shore. While I was ad- 
miring a spectacle which is always attractive, the can- 
nons on shore fired to announce the end of Eamazan 
(Careme), and the commencement of Beiram (answering 
to Easter), and in a moment the ship was dressed in 
flags from stem to stern ; and as soon as the guns in the 
fort had ceased, she began, from her double row of 
port-holes, to salute the festival, the mountains giving 
back the sound of each report with due courtesy. 

Several small parties passed by on the path beneath, 
some of them on horseback, with women, too, amongst 
them. One man, in a turban, and a handsome youth, 
were very well mounted. Another group was attended 
by slaves, who were carrying things for them. The 
broad-coloured shawl bound round the waist, with the 
pistols and arms showing their hilts in front, the pointed 



58 



STRIKING COSTUME. 



shoes, the full trowsers, the bare throat, and the open 
chest, with a full- coloured kerchief wrapping the head, 
make every figure that passes in Smyrna a picturesque 
one. On sea or on shore, one is always sure to see, even 
among the lower class, some striking costume, to say 
nothing of the occasional ones of a more ornamental 
character. 



59 



CHAPTER IV. 

Railway to Ayasalook — Ayasalook — Cave of the Seven Sleepers — Its 
Inner Eecesses — Ephesus — Fragments of a Temple — The Port of the 
City — Remains of an Ancient Temple — Ruins — Prison of St. Paul 
— The Church of St. John — Greek Villagers out for a Day's Plea- 
sure — A Midnight Struggle — Camels — The Railway in the East — 
Rhodes. 

MONDAY, 27th.— Finding that an English family 
here was setting off for Ephesus, and the morning 
being very fine, I at once determined to depart with 
them, only too glad to leave the dull, cold, noisy hotel, 
and get rid of that certain bore, the courier. The dis- 
tance from the hotel to the railway, at a lady's slow 
pace, is half an hour. The station is near the water, 
close, I believe, to the Gulf of Boornabat. Our things 
had been taken round previously by boat, so that we 
were ready to set off with the train at half-past seven, 
the fare being more than ten francs. The railway 
officials round the carriages, who were all civil, were 
mostly, I observed, young Englishmen. We came to the 
first stop, not far from the Pont des Caravanes, where 
many natives were waiting to get in. The women were 
dressed in full pantaloons, and wore a jacket of bright 
colour, trimmed with fur, but without any vest ; and 
something to draw over the head. Thev were sitting 



SEDEKOI. 



on the ground as we approached ; but at a sign from a 
man by whom they were accompanied, they rose and 
ran towards him, the pantaloons, with their female tops, 
looking very funny in motion. Proceeding on our 
journey, we passed two aqueducts, one of two tiers of 
arches, and another of three. Near one of the aque- 
ducts was a tomb. The citadel of Pagus, on the right, 
which is of great extent, looked very majestic with its 
broken towers and walls above the railway. The 
country was generally level, though there were some 
furze-covered heights and mountains on the left, sprinkled 
with a little snow. 

A station and a village which we passed, I understood 
to be Sedekoi, a pleasant place, with poplar-trees rising 
out of it. On the round top of one of the hills that 
look down on it, and also on the eminence near it, were 
rocks looking like fortifications. Some mountains on 
the right, which were first seen at a distance, now came 
nearer into view ; and we observed several ridges ex- 
tending to the left. As we drew near to Ephesus, the 
train seemed to be passing through a lake, formed by 
the overflow of the river Cayster. The heights above 
were all reflected in the wide, watery surface, and we 
were able to distinguish one vividly green hillock, with 
its shadow, a long way off. When we had advanced a 
short way, the hills approached nearer on both sides, 
and the river flowed on in its natural dimensions, which 
are very small. Flocks of sheep were grazing on the 
pastures, with two or three camels, dams and young- 
ones, the latter the first of the species I had ever seen 



AYASALOOK. 



61 



in infancy. They were standing contemplatively, as if 
with some presage of the grave, business-like existence 
before them ; not indulging in the frolicsome gambols 
of animals whose youth is gifted with less prevision. 
On a hill to the right, was a ruin, in shape resembling 
a church. 

Near a station called Cosmonar the plain widened out, 
and on the left were pleasant pasture grounds. Passing 
some remarkable-looking rocks, all in curves, a railway 
bridge over the river, and a line of columns, which we 
had seen across the valley, the train came to a stop at 
Ayasalook, the termination of the line of stations for 
Ephesus. It was half-past ten o'clock, and the journey 
from Smyrna, about forty-eight miles, had therefore taken 
about three hours. A house has been built, with a 
large room, and comfortable English fire-place, and 
three or four bed-rooms over it. This habitation, if 
kept in order and cleanliness, would be of sufficient 
comfort for any parties wishing to examine the ruins at 
leisure, but the English family who keep it, though 
really decent people, are deficient in the qualifications 
requisite. To the right of the station is a road which 
leads to paths conducting to Ephesus, not more than a 
mile distant. One path goes over Mount Prion, and 
two others skirt its base to the right and left. Beyond 
Mount Prion, and to the right, is the Cave of the Seven 
Sleepers, to which we can obtain entrance only over 
masses of gigantic thistles, and nettles, and stones, and 
pieces of rock. The branches of a fig-tree jutting out 



62 



CAYE OF THE SEVEN SLEEPERS. 



of the rock, form a good landmark for this far-famed 
place, which is deeply nooked in recesses of the rock, 
an immense fragment of which, with a fig-tree behind 
it, blocks up the approach to the cave. Passing this 
bulwark, you find yourself before the entrance of a 
spacious cavern. A few glances show that it has evi- 
dently been once used as a chapel. The recesses of the 
Seven Tombs are arched over, and the roof has been 
ornamented with some rude kind of plaster, not at all 
to the improvement of a place famed in legend, which 
we would rather see as formed by nature. Slumbers, 
indeed, might be long unbroken by any sounds from the 
outer world, to which the recesses of the cave are im- 
penetrable. A story prevalent in the East tells us that 
Mohammet, conquering the curiosity which might have 
prompted him to enter it, passed reverently by, while 
an inquisitive caliph and his followers, stopping to ex- 
amine it, were struck dead at its entrance by a violent 
burning wind which rushed from its depths at their 
approach. Many are said to have taken the liberty 
only to glance in, but have immediately retired, dread- 
ing the magic sleep that might fall upon them. I 
forgot to exercise any such discretion, and lingered long 
in its sombre gloom, the repose of which, on this bright 
day, I rather enjoyed. 

I was informed that once a year, on a certain clay in 
May, thousands of pilgrims come from all parts to visit 
it, and that for three days religious services are per- 
formed in its interior, pilgrims kneeling in hundreds 



TOMB OF MARY MAGDALEN. 



63 



without, their eager eyes seeking to catch a glimpse, if 
it were only of its entrance. The whole mount at that 
time is occupied by crowds, and a spot not far off, but 
much higher up, where there is a tomb which tradition 
asserts to be that of Mary Magdalen, is at the same period 
a magnet for the devout. Lamps are kindled, and in- 
cense is burned, while the chaunts of priests and the 
murmurs of prayer are heard over the whole mount, and 
across the plain, Moslem and Christian joining in their 
reverence for the place. This occasional union of the 
professors of the two faiths throughout the East is often 
perplexing to those who do not bear in mind that Mo- 
hammedanism is a belief grafted on Christianity, and that 
its adherents have no objection to, or rather accept 
much of, Scriptural revelation. One recess behind the 
old trunk of a fig-tree, from the sides of which branches 
had sprung forth and increased, must have formed, 
when the tree was in leaf, a very good sleeping-place, 
probably for the dogs, as it was outside. 

Xear the Cave of the Sleepers is another, and, to my 
mind, a much more striking one, forming a mighty arch, 
the sides of which are all fluted with petrified water. 
Its inner recesses, however, were unfortunately filled 
up in part by immense blocks of stone. There was a 
great rent in the rocks close by, forming a confined 
space, which, though open to the sky, was deep in 
gloom. The ground was bestrewn with huge fragments 
of rock, amongst which were some of the bones and the 
skull of some poor horse which had there perished. 



64 



EPBESUS. 



The silence of these places was profound, and being so 
far from help or protection, it is by no means safe for a 
timid or nervous person to remain long lingering about 
them, or in the thinly peopled region around. The 
remembrance of the deserted ruins of that immense city, 
from which the generations of mankind have retired 
centuries ago, gives a certain solemnity to these remote 
fastnesses of nature. And yet these secluded places 
were once the seats of a large population, from whose 
noise and strife the sage or the poet tied, to seek mental 
repose in spots as silent and deserted as these wilder- 
nesses now are. 

We continued our journey over Mount Prion, the 
summit of which was soon reached. From that height 
we looked down on the site of Ephesus. The valley 
below was filled with the remains of its various temples, 
gymnasiums, agoras, and other places of public resort, 
of which the ruins still remain. The archways, Cyclo- 
pean walls, gateways, and granite columns were all, 
more or less, in huge fragments. Then there is a wide, 
open space, and a piece of water, with brambles growing 
round it, which might have been an artificial lake in the 
centre of the city. While walking one day over that 
once-stirring rendezvous of human beings, the Forum, 
or, at least, the space which is supposed to have been 
its site, I came upon the fragments of a temple, 
with wondrously large-fluted columns, and beauti- 
ful pieces of roof and cornice, all embraced and 
cradled by pretty shrubs and wild flowers, which climbed 



EPHESUS. 



65 



over them in all directions, the growth of yesterday 
forming a charming contrast with these hoar remnants 
of the past. 

On the declivity of a mount are ruins of some 
very large theatre, and a range of excavations which 
are considered to have been the city storehouses, along 
which may once have been a quay or a wharf. The sea 
is about tAvo miles distant, and a perfectly level space, 
traversed by the river, is now, and must have always 
been, at its mercy. Had the city a port close at hand ? 
— or did its ships sail up the river to it ? — or had it two 
ports ? We have some account of the bewitching 
Cleopatra, with purple sails and a gilded barge, float- 
ing down some river to meet Mark Anthony. May we 
not suppose it from Ephesus as well as anywhere else ? 
Here that hero left the dulness of an oration too pro- 
longed, and hurried out, attracted by the charming 
queen's presence, as she happened to be passing the 
Agora one fine morning in her graceful litter. What 
chevalier does not sympathise with him, exchanging 
ennui for enchantment ? But while the records of 
Ephesus and of many another ancient site are brightened 
up with the traces of this radiant princess's eventful 
life, a life destined to close so tragically, it is with a 
far higher interest that we, as Christians, tread its 
renowned ruins. This magnificent city was the scene 
where our glorious apostle, St. Paul, was permitted to 
bear testimony, by the miraculous power vouchsafed 
to his words, to the truth of the doctrines which he 

F 



66 



TEMPLE OF DIANA. 



taught. The intense ardour of this first of Christian 
missionaries here stirred up the worshippers of the false 
gods to that memorable scene of fury and tumult in the 
theatre, when they shouted in honour of their goddess, 
whose deity, as it seemed to them, had been humbled 
by the words and deeds of the bold preacher who 
defied their enmity. The ruins of arches on the right- 
hand side of Mount Prion, as you descend it, going over 
from Ayasalook, were pointed out to me as those of the 
theatre where this memorable scene was transacted. 

The site of the Temple of Diana is disputed; but 
there is a temple of immense proportions at the base of 
Mount Prion, on the side next Mount Corrisus. I 
stood on the fragments opposite the enormous recess 
between two doorways of this building, and imagined 
the immense space filled with a mighty multitude, with 
the image of the goddess looming in savage grandeur 
over her thronging worshippers below. That which 
must have been the floor of the temple is now over- 
grown with shrubs, nettles, grass, and stones. I waded, 
waist deep, down this strange aisle, my guide and my- 
self working our w r ay with staff and stick. 

This temple, like the Erechtheion, on the Acropolis at 
Athens, seems to have been divided into several parts. 
There are basements of pillars and a distant portion, 
with an entrance, close under the hill by Ayasalook ; and 
the ground sloped down gently to the valley at the foot 
of Mount Corrisus. The balmy atmosphere was so 
soothing, and a silence so profound reigned around, 



RUINS OF THE PAST. 



67 



that it was difficult to imagine it broken with the sounds 
of an angry tumult. After long lingering about, I sum- 
moned my guide, with the shout, more energetic than 
harmonious, which I have learned to utter while making 
these visits, and proceeded down the glen to the temple 
recently excavated, most of which, with the exception 
of some walls and passages of marble, and some flights 
of steps, is still in rubbish. I remarked a pretty frag- 
ment of a draped female figure, which I fear some one 
will take away, as there seems to be no authority for 
the protection of what is found. 

As I went on down the valley amongst shrubs and 
wild flowers, I passed what seemed an old city gate in 
the hollow below, and came to the temple I had so 
much admired the previous day. I had been interrupted 
in my examination of its huge fluted pillars and richly 
sculptured friezes by the illness of my guide, who had 
been suddenly laid low by an attack of fever and thirst. 
While mounted on the highest fragment of this grand 
mass of ruins, which occupy but a small space, as they 
have all fallen in a heap, I saw two or three Europeans, 
naval officers, whom I had previously passed in the 
middle of Ephesus, skirting the base of Mount Prion. I 
observed also an Asiatic, and two women, sitting on a 
bank near the Forum, and a couple of Greek horsemen 
going through the Agora towards the plain ; and these 
were the only persons that traversed the " City of the 
Ephesians " during my visits to it. 

On the side of Mount Corrisus is a row of arches, 

2 F 



68 



PRISON OF ST. PAUL. 



which are considered to be the remains of an aqueduct. 
A sloping path, which leads up under them, is the road 
to Scala Nova, a town eighteen miles off. The view of 
the city of ruins from this ascent was most interesting ; 
and as I proceeded upwards I met a company of country 
people on horseback and on foot coming down the steep, 
all in picturesque costume, and every one carrying arms, 
a gun on the shoulder, and pistols in the belt. After 
half an hour's clamber we crossed over some ploughed 
ground, and mounted to the height on the right hand, 
crowned with a tower called the Prison of St. Paul. It 
is a square edifice, with Cyclopean walls, and is divided 
into four chambers. The entrance to it is by a low 
arched doorway, on the side looking towards the city. 
Over the door is a stone with an inscription, and within 
are two more arched doorways. As there is no roof, 
the traveller can climb up and look down into the in- 
terior of the tower, the walls of which are double, and 
wonder in which of its divisions he who was " in prison 
oft " was bestowed. The eminence on which the tower 
is situated forms a delightful platform, from which we 
may observe the situation of Ephesus. The great plain 
below, on which it stood, is in summer good pasture 
ground, and even at this early season large flocks of 
sheep found food and sojourn on it. The sea washes 
the edge of the plain, and the river Cayster winds along 
towards it. There are some steps cut in the rock down 
from the eminence, which may have led to some place 
used in defence. My pony feasted on the fine grass 



SULTAN SELIM'S MOSQUE. 



69 



and pretty flowers carpeting this pleasant spot, the 
prison mount. 

Above the station at Ayasalook is a building called 
the Turkish Fort, which, with the line of pillars across 
the valley, forms a remarkable approach for the traveller 
intent on visiting Ephesus. On the hill are the remains 
of an arch called " The Gateway of Persecution," a 
name suggestive of terrible scenes, perhaps, which imagi- 
nation can but faintly picture. I observed an Asiatic 
asleep in a tomb near. A church called St. John's, in 
which a marble chair was found, has been excavated 
further on. Eubbish, however, has fallen in in such 
quantities, that only a few small pillars are now visible. 

At the base of this hill, towards Ephesus, stands a 
large edifice, known as the Sultan Selim's Mosque, 
which is considered to have been once a Christian 
church. The capitals of two granite pillars, brought 
from the Eorum at Ephesus, are remarkably fine. The 
three arches of the east end are divided by most beauti- 
ful sculptured fretted work, and a double line of stone 
stalls remains. In another division of the church is a 
fine granite pillar, but shorter than the one already 
mentioned. The principal entrance faces towards 
Ephesus, and has three windows on each side, seamed 
with exquisitely-worked marble, in various patterns. 
From the doorway descends a double flight of steps, 
beneath which there appears to have been a set of 
marble baths — at least there are the ornamental marble 
slabs. 



70 



ALARMING INCIDENT. 



While sitting one soft silent evening under the 
columns of an aqueduct crossing the valley, columns 
which are formed of pieces of sculpture and fragments 
taken from ruins, a number of Greeks from a village two 
or three hours off amongst the hills, who had come 
clown to spend the afternoon at Ayasalook, passed on 
horseback two and three at a time. The women and 
children were mounted in couples, and one pretty young 
girl, who I understood was a bride, wore a wreath of 
natural flowers bound with a ribbon in her hair, a long- 
red veil spotted with silver stars hanging clown behind. 
She was mounted with her mother, and a young man, the 
affianced of the maiden, I suppose, rode behind them. 
They appeared to be fearless equestrians, for some of the 
horsemen galloped by over the broken and rocky ground. 
I suppose it was a convivial party, for the whole village 
seemed to have turned out for the occasion, as there 
were no less than seventy or eighty of them. Wander- 
ing further on to a little hill, on the slope of which a 
numerous flock were grazing, I stood looking on while 
they were being driven into a deep hollow enclosed by 
branches, which seemed to be their fold. I spent several 
days amidst these scenes, although the population, which 
is very scanty in this part of the country, is not a very 
safe one to be- among. One night I was disturbed by 
the sounds of a dreadful struggle and cries for help, as 
it appeared to me, from one or two men overpowered by 
numbers. It was pitch dark at the time. I tried 
to open my window, but could not hold up the light, and 



CAAIELS. 



71 



therefore called the people of the hotel, who however said 
they found it better never to interfere on such occasions 
amongst the natives. They thought that a man was 
being robbed and beaten, but I doubt if murder was not 
being committed, for the cries were suddenly hushed. 
This event produced a great impression on my mind, 
and I left next day. 

The village of Uzzisish, in the Ephesus pass, is, I un- 
derstand, laid out quite like an English one, and is in- 
habited by the railway people, of whom there are about 
sixty families. They have cricket-clubs, schools, and 
everything to interest them, to contribute to the comfort 
of the men, and to keep them content, but they are apt 
to get home-sick. The village is about six miles distant 
from Ayasalook, in the midst of very fine scenery. The 
line of railway rises a foot in a very short space, and seems 
to ascend in a slope along the hill-side, like a road. A 
long line of camels came into the Ayasalook station as 
the train was waiting to set off for Smyrna. Some had 
to be unladen, and others to receive new burdens ; 
the latter made a kind of loud roaring noise as their 
drivers drew down their heads to make them kneel. 
These animals are very interesting, their equal pace, 
their docility, and their immense capabilities, render- 
ing them most useful servants to man in this climate. 
It was indeed a curious sight to see the camel, the 
ship of the desert, undergoing the process of being 
loaded with merchandise at a railway station, The 
people of the country seem to make a good use of 



72 



RHODE? 



the railway. At the different railway stations there 
were always persons waiting to go with the trains, some 
on their way to busy ports, and others to the interior of 
the country. Attendants, with very handsome capa- 
risoned steeds, were occasionally seen waiting for some 
of the more wealthy travellers. A whole household — 
women, children, and slaves, who had come up to Smyrna, 
and were to go by sea next day, were put into a boarded 
enclosure of the line near the Pont des Caravanes, where 
they were to pass the night. After a day wasted in 
shopping up and down Frank Street, during which time I 
succeeded in getting very few of the trifles I sought, I 
took a boat for an hour's sail about sunset. Rowing 
across the harbour the situation looks very pleasant, 
but is only so for houses which come with their little 
platforms close to the water. 

On Saturday, March 4th, I left by the Adria steamer 
for Beyrout. As we steamed out of the bay, Smyrna 
appeared lying in sunshine and beauty, backed by 
mountains, with the high ground extending on each side 
of its widely-arching bay. It made a fine picture. Sunday, 
about mid-day, we anchored in a harbour quite shut in 
by land, called Panaca, the wind being contrary, and 
too strong to permit of our lying off Ehodes if we 
arrived there at night. At seven on Monday morning, 
after a night of tossing, we came to anchor before the 
City of the Knights, and went on shore with priest and 
sister. The fortifications have been much shaken by 
a recent earthquake, but the walls and towers still look 



THE COLOSSUS. 



73 



formidable, though doubtless they could not resist the 
modern appliances that could be brought against them. 
Above the entrance-gates are the arms of the knights, 
and that cross once so renowned is carved on every part 
that meets the eye. We went over many bridges, under 
many arches, and saw the cemetery where so many 
generations of brave defenders of the island lie. It is 
difficult to fix on any position where the Colossus could 
have stood. There are no remnants of any pedestals. 
A few rocks, indeed, run out into the sea, forming the 
horns of a small beach, and the places where two towers 
stand may each have supported a foot of this Titanic 
guardian of the port. We walked through many narrow 
but clean lanes as we went through the town. In front 
of the houses were generally small courts, opening into 
these lanes, and the windows looked down from above a 
balcony far up in the wall. Most of the houses are 
very small and modest-looking buildings, the English 
Consul's, which is a compact, well-built house, looking 
quite a residence in comparison with them. 

We went as far as the Franciscan convent. A few 
pretty women, with merely black veils on their heads, 
came out of the chapel as we passed. Those faces which 
I remarked during our giro were fair and delicate-look- 
ing, with soft but not very dark eyes, and beautifully- 
penciled eyebrows. Many such came to the little court 
doors to look at us, for but few strangers come to 
Bhodes. On each side of a sloping road leading down 
from the chapel was a cemetery. We passed through a 



74 



THE CASTLE. 



bazaar plentifully supplied with fruit 3 and crossing a 
portcullis, entered the castle; after seeing which we came 
out at another gateway, rowing under its walls, and 
afterwards directed our course to our steamer. Our 
feet had trodden the familiar paths of the brave knights 
of Ehodes, those bulwarks of the Christian faith during 
so many centuries ; and we had seen those memorable 
spots where they were attacked, and had resisted to the 
death the then formidable and terrible Turk in many a 
deadly struggle. 



75 



CHAPTER V. 



Cyprus — The Convents of the Nuns of St. Guiseppe — Visit to an Island 
Family — The Streets of Cyprus — Voyage — Turks at Prayer — 
' Arrival at Beyrout — Madame Olympe — Landing at Jaffa — The 
Streets and Lanes of the City — Arab Women — Setting out for 
Jerusalem — Ramleh — The Pass of Aboo Goosch — Arrival at Jerusa- 
lem — First View of the Holy City — Walk to Bethany — The Grave 
of Lazarus — The Mount of Olives — The Garden of Gethsemane. 

A FTER coasting about the whole of the previous day, 



we i a y all Wednesday before Cyprus. We 
anchored at a spot where we were surrounded by an 
amphitheatre of mountains, before a small place a short 
distance from Larneca. The aspect of the scene was 
most beautiful, distinct lines of colour ribbing the sea, 
which we had been admiring all along the shores of the 
island, and which were here even more apparent. We 
landed with the same party as before, accompanied by 
the English gentleman. The priest, who had been Pre- 
fect of the Propaganda at Eome, went to see one of his 
" class/ 7 who had been many years there as a sacerdote, 
not a monk. The latter recognized his college superior 
in a moment, and very hearty warm greetings were ex- 
changed. The sacerdote took us all up into his cool 
room in a house made of wood, and seated us ladies 
on a red settee, which harmonized well with his old 




76 



CONVENT OF GUISEPPE. 



student books. We next went into a Greek church, in 
which was a curious pulpit or chaire, of tortoise-shell and 
mother-of-pearl. In this large church were several 
pictures relating to incidents in the lives of saints. On 
our visit to the Franciscan convent the good brethren 
hospitably treated us all with Cyprus wine in the sacristy. 
This famous beverage was pronounced by those who can 
appreciate it to be of most excellent quality. It was 
certainly very refreshing, and had a spicy taste, while 
its colour rivalled that of the ruby. 

We went, on our return, into the convent of the nuns 
of St. Guiseppe, who have a school. Three young girls 
were at a pianoforte in the parlour, a quiet, peaceful 
room, with a divan all round. The superior, a pleasant- 
looking woman, whose hood, edged with white, set off a 
calm, agreeable face, came to see us. We went into the 
interior by a door over which was written " Cloture," to 
prevent, she told me, intrusion from the island people. 
In the room near the entrance were kept medicines and 
stores for the sick and poor. After seeing all that was 
to be seen, we received flowers of remembrance and 
good wishes at parting. Our priest sat down and 
touched the piano with a master-hand, after commending 
the young maidens' trembling essay to get through a 
sonata. 

After taking leave, we paid a visit to an island family, 
who, in a cool, shady room, presented us ladies with 
delicious preserve of lemon, cut in squares, and coffee. 
A servant presented each of us with a silver filigree- 



CYPRUS. 



77 



holder for our cups. The two ecclesiastical friends 
meanwhile walked up and down the balcony, on which 
the chambers opened, renewing past times in converse, 
which both seemed heartily to enjoy. Some hanging 
plant shaded the front of the apartment, and we, far 
back in it, enjoyed the soft light and quiet till it was 
time to make our way back to the landing-place. 

The streets in many parts we passed were a mass of 
thick black mud, though the causeways on each side 
.were clean. The air was so beautifully clear, and the 
houses and walls were so white, that you could not call 
it a dirty place, notwithstanding the appalling quantity 
of mud visible. Great jars and skins, filled with wine, 
were exposed for sale in the open booths of the little 
town. Very few trees were visible on the coast, but we 
were told that the interior was very fertile. Great 
hospitality and kindness are exercised. The Cypriote 
families in the country and on the hills throw open their 
houses to those who like to come during the hot 
season, while any vacant rooms are left. We rowed 
off to the steamer from a narrow wharf, backed by a 
line of houses, and from which a wooden jetty runs out 
for the convenience of the boats that touch at it. The 
sea was glowing with streaks of the richest colours, from 
the lightest green to the deep purple line that marked 
the horizon. After dinner we were on deck just in time 
to catch the last golden gleams of sunset, and to obtain 
a last view of Cyprus, fading away in the glory of it. 
We paced the deck till eleven, the bright moonlight and 



78 



BEYROUT. 



the soft atmosphere proving so attractive. There were 
several hundred pilgrims on board our vessel, both for 
Jerusalem and Mecca, and a motley company they 
formed. One side of the quarter-deck was awned over, 
for the concealment of the fair ladies of a Cadi with a 
green turban. I got a glimpse within occasionally, and 
saw some of them leaning about on large cushions, laid 
on carpets, under the rough canvas, which was their 
only shelter. The Cadi, I was told, was blessed with 
twenty-six of these domestic moveables. A group of 
five Turks came on the most unoccupied part of our 
deck to pay their devotions. Each spread his cloak, 
and looking towards Mecca, prostrated himself three 
times, going through all his observances with a gravity 
that, surrounded as the little company were on all sides 
by strangers, was somewhat striking. 

Thursday morning we arrived at Beyrout, on a fine 
bay, with Lebanon towering above one side of it. The 
town has a picturesque enough appearance from the 
sea. An eminence, about the centre of it, is crowned 
by a red building, standing on a grassy summit, round 
the battlements of which are a few cannon. This is the 
Great Caserne, or Serai, a depot for soldiers. The 
mountains, rising one behind another in the direction of 
the route to Damascus, intersect each other in charm- 
ing lines ; and Lebanon, with the lofty Djebei Scheik 
covered with snow, forms the most striking, object in the 
magnificent picture. 

After the Cadi had taken his goods, and gone on 



DEVOUT MUSSULMANS. 



79 



shore, we stepped into a boat and landed at Ras-Bey- 
rout, at the Belle- Yue, an hotel pleasantly situated 
close to the sea. There is a wide balcony on the second 
floor, on which several rooms open, and a divan at each 

end. Mr. W had a tent of his unrolled to show us, 

with an outer wall of canvas painted green to surround 
it, and a smaller tent for cooking ; the cost of the whole 
being about £14. The sight of it inspired such pleasant 
thoughts of camping out under waving trees, and wan- 
dering far away from cities and care, and particularly 
from travelling troubles, that I saw them rolled up again 
with regret. 

At six in the evening we moved off from Beyrout, 
with an addition of some hundred pilgrims ; and as 
night came on, beds were spread in such numbers on 
the deck, that we had but a narrow strip to walk up 
and down in. The devout Mussulmans had scarce room 
to say their prayers, but say them they did, diving their 
turbans, as they prostrated themselves, into the faces 
and laps of sleeping groups. One of these groups, 
which occupied a nook near the steersman, had very 
white, clean cushions. Three women, in the ample 
calico envelopes within which these Eastern females 
enclose themselves, were lying down, apparently asleep, 
in the moonlight. When our tea, however, was brought, 
one of them suddenly started up, and coming towards 
us, seized a spoon that lay in the sugar-bowl, and, taking 
a portion, tasted it, thinking it salt ; then, sitting down 
beside us, she began a wild song, finishing with a strange 



80 



MADAME OLYMPE. 



trill, that might have vibrated a mile over the silent 
sea. She talked a great deal, and gave us each some- 
thing, an orange, nuts, &c. After awhile, she went 
away again to her couch, but ever and anon started up 
from it, breaking out into song, and terminating with 
the trill in alto. She came to us again, frequently 
hovering round us, and addressing each. Meanwhile, a 
few more of these half-wild creatures were amusing 
themselves by looking down into the cabin, their black 
eyes under the veils making the sippers of tea below 
start when they met their glance. 

A fast French lady, who came on board at Beyrout, 
was another specimen of female loneliness, for our 
singular Asiatic had come from the far interior, and 
was going to Mecca quite by herself. Madame Olympe 
was a pretty person, quite young, and affecting to be 
a literary character. She had passed, she said, three 
months with the ladies of the harem, and gave us what, 
she assured us, was a very truthful representation of their 
life. Madame Olympe had already written works on 
Egypt, and on some other country, and was going to 
write upon Syria. Her editeur, however, required her 
presence in Paris, and so she would not be able to spend 
a few days in it for the purpose. Very determined to 
produce an effect was pretty Madame Olympe, even in 
the ladies' cabin, as well as in the literary world. 

Moonlight kept me late on deck with my amiable 
companion, and the only two other Europeans who were 
passengers, on this last night of our week's pleasant 



SCENE ON LANDING. 



81 



sojourn together ; and truly a strange scene it was we 
had before us, all those Turks, Greeks, and Suliotes that 
covered the vessel's deck from stem to stern. Morning 
found us off Caifa, just under the convent of Mount 
Carmel, in the beautiful bay of St. Jean d'Acre. That 
famous place, surrounded by its fortifications, inspired 
many interesting historical recollections, such as Napo- 
leon's cruel slaughter of his prisoners, its capture by the 
Crusaders, and, in recent times, by Sir Sidney Smith. 
The morning was so calm, fresh, and bright, that every- 
thing round this fine crescent bay seemed to wear an 
unclouded smile ; and we left it with regret, coasting 
down to Jaffa, where we arrived about five o'clock. 
We were taken ashore in a boat with four rowers, whc 
conducted us in safety among the rocks that are sg 
formidable. What words can describe the scene we 
were compelled to witness the moment we put our feet 
on shore — the noise, tearing, pulling, shouting of the 
Arabs, all eagerly attempting to carry off some of our 
things ? One who had succeeded in carrying something 

off, was pursued and brought back by Mr. W 's 

servant. Two others laid their hands on a box at the 
same time, but were summarily stopped by the powerful 
hand of our magnificent priest. All, however, ended 
well at last, and we arrived, safe and sound, under the 
hospitable roof of the Franciscan convent, which, close 
to the landing-place, is reached by a long flight of 
steps, with terraces at each story of the house. All 
the packages and ourselves were deposited on the 

G 



82 



AN ARAB SAINT. 



top landing, in an ante-chamber whose large-railed win- 
dow opened on the sea, and looked over the sands to 
the right. The house " beside the sea," occupied by 
" Simon the tanner," was situated a short distance to 
the left, and that sea Jonah found so tempestuous, lay 
in sparkling, but undisturbed, beauty before us. 

After some rest, and supper in the refectory below, 
where a good brother waited on us, performing perfectly 
the duties both of host and attendant, we mounted to 
the terrace to enjoy the moonlight, when a throng of 
travellers from Egypt, with baggage, Dragoman, and 
Arab porters, arrived, to be, like ourselves, taken in and 
done for, and it was very late ere the hospitable abode 
was at rest ; but we slept sweetly on terra jirma once 
more, though with but rough accommodation. Next 
day T walked out through the crooked, steep, and stony 
lanes of the town ; and after passing through a gate, 
emerged upon an open place, where, in the hot sun, 
sheltered by crazy booths, was a market of fruits. Many 
wild-looking Arabs were about, and further on was a 
man lying naked on the side of the road, a saint vowed 
to this state of existence. We stepped into an orange 
garden to refresh ourselves after this, and sat under the 
fragrant and loaded branches of these beautiful trees, 
pleasant both to sight and sense. A woman, with 
face so far unveiled as to show a pair of sweet eyes and 
finely arched brows, came to us, with a baby in her 
arms, and the little thing contemplated each of us with 
a curiosity and knowingness that were perfectly impish. 



NUNS OF ST. GIUSEPPE. 



83 



Coming back I gave an orange to a camel, who seemed 
to like it amazingly, squeezed out the juice first before 
swallowing it, and then, poor thing, turned its head for 
another. I believe it would have taken a second one 
from me if I had offered it then, although the first it 
would only take from its driver's hand. 

Sunday 12th, I attended service in the convent 
chapel. The Arab women, in their white envelopes of 
veils, on the ground on one side, and the men and 
brethren on the other. The priest was an imposing- 
looking man, and the tone of his voice was like that of 
an organ. I afterwards went to see the nuns of St. 
Giuseppe, whose abode is next to the convent. The 
Superior is a young and pleasing woman, and the cheer- 
ful parlour looks out on the sea from its one window. 
These nuns have a school for the natives, and many 
Greeks and Jews, as well as a few Catholics, receive in- 
struction from them. I was amused here by a little 
Nubian girl, who smiled and showed her white teeth as 
Fraulein B— — - and I were talking to her, but suddenly 
burst into tears at the sight of the tall, perhaps severe- 
looking priest. He said these poor things had all such 
a terror of the whites. 

We set off for Jerusalem at half-past two. A 
memorable day and hour was that on which I com- 
menced my journey to the Holy City, the goal to which 
I have been tending since January 12th, exactly two 
months. Three of the brethren were also in progress 
from the convent. We were thirteen persons, with ten 

G 2 



84 



TRAVELLED MONKS. 



animals. As we set out on our journey, the Agoyahs 
walking beside their sumpter mules, we passed through 
the market-place, which was full of the turbaned, veiled, 
and vested rough population. A group of women were 
walking away, as if for some special purpose, on our ap- 
proach, the dark veils under the white covering of the 
head giving them, when they turned round, a rather 
repulsive appearance. There was some delay, in conse- 
quence of our mules and the natives not emerging in 
time from the gate, and the people we asked either did 
not understand us, or were too much amused with 
having us to stare at to direct which road we were to 
take. I had time, meanwhile, to observe the monks, 
and learned that one was from Genoa, a Dominican, and 
another from the Manillas. The Franciscan, who had 
just come from the interior of Africa, showed himself 
able to ride well in the course of the journey. One of 
them had been ten times to Jerusalem. Another who wore 
a high straw hat, with broad brim, and green spectacles, 
had a good horse and saddle, and was comfortably and 
coolly dressed, as well as the monastic garb permitted. 
They were all occupied with their prayers, but cheerful 
and kind when occasion required. 

The sumpter mules came up at last. My little pet's 
house, tied on the top of the baggage, was placed on 
one, and then we set off in the direction of the line 
of hills in the far distance, which we had to clear. Our 
road led us at first through lanes of prickly pear, and 
beside orange- gardens, and then over an open grassy 



RAMLEII. 



85 



ground. There was a small cluster of mud huts 
on the left, and we soon after came to another, where 
the horses drank from a spring on the right. No- 
thing very remarkable occurred till about three 
hours from setting out, when we entered Rami eh. 
The tower and a portion of the walls we had already 
seen over the grassy hill, or rather slope, which we 
had mounted. As we approached we saw the people 
sitting among the graves in an unenclosed cemetery. 
We were assailed as we proceeded by numerous beggars, 
but soon stopped at the convent, where two brethren 
came out to receive us, under whose guidance we rode 
within the court, and gladly dismounted. The convent 
parlour was furnished with a divan all round, and a 
brother stood at the table in the centre, with glasses of 
lemonade, a beverage never made so good anywhere as 
in these houses. When we were introduced to our own 
room we found that, with others, it opened on a court, 
dismal enough in contrast to that at Jaffa, from which 
we had such a view of the sea and sky ; but moonlight 
after supper made even that court agreeable to walk in. 
A narrow way from it led to the chapel and monastery 
itself, whose cloisters looked, as they do everywhere, 
attractive for their aspect of repose. 

The pilgrim house, in all these buildings, is one kept 
for the purpose of hospitality to strangers, apart from 
that occupied by the brethren themselves. Our rooms 
and beds were comfortable. A full moon streamed 
through the narrow lattice window as we lay down ; and 



86 



APPROACH TO JERUSALEM. 



we were again astir before daylight, to be ready for our 
early departure. My companion, going out to see if 
the others were moving, found the Arabs in the outer 
court lying about on the stones, the only luxury 
enjoyed by the chief amongst them being that of laying 
his head on a wooden threshold. The mules, stand- 
ing close by under a shed, and feeding, were, ap- 
parently, better accommodated than their owners. A 
cup of coffee and slices of bread were presented to us ; 
after which our steeds, with those of other pilgrims 
leaving for Jaffa, and some returning from Jerusalem, 
made their appearance. The latter were accompanied 
by a gaily-dressed young Arab, merry-looking, who 
seemed a wit, for he was evidently quizzing and taking 
off the Europeans to his comrades, who, meanwhile, were 
tossing about the bridles and stirrups. 

Another friar was added to our party from this con- 
vent, and we set off at six o'clock. The sun rose in 
mist, and continued so veiled for more than half our 
route-— fortunately, for when he threw his rays on our 
path up and down the steeps, as we neared Jerusalem, 
they were felt to be intensely hot and overpowering. 
Nothing of interest occurred till about eleven o'clock, 
when we entered a defile, which, as we ascended it, 
became beautiful with large olive-trees and fragments of 
rock. The strata were disclosed in layers along the 
sides of the ravine— an interesting study to the geologist. 

We met a large party coming from the Holy City, 
Americans, some of whom stopped me with character- 



ABO GOOSCII. 



87 



istic questions ; but amiably, in moving off, gave us 
information in return, intended to be useful. We halted 
half an hour at mid-day at a spot where some immense 
olive-trees made a little shade, their trunks being twisted 
like marble columns, or knotted together. The good 
brethren produced bread, meat, and wine, which they 
distributed to all with very great good-will. My little 
pet had a run of the delicious fine clover ; while water 
was close at hand, just above our halting-place, where 
a spring ran from a low arch in the rock. 

Soon after the little caravan was again in motion, we 
came in sight of a small village, formerly the stronghold 
of a notorious robber chieftain, Abo Goosch, whose bold 
attacks once made this pass very dangerous. To extort 
money, he would sometimes capture pilgrim monks, put 
them into a large oven, light a slow fire, and then send a 
horseman full gallop to Jerusalem, with a message to 
the superior of the convent, that if such and such a sum 
was not sent him, the fire would, within such a time, 
burn up, and the good pilgrims be roasted ! There is 
a spring of good water on the left hand, at the foot of 
the village ; but the descent is rocky and slippery, and 
for tired pilgrims it is trying enough to ride down the 
winding and difficult road to it. 

We at last began to ascend the hill that intervened 
between us and the city. On its summit I looked back 
on the nearly setting sun, and on many round-topped 
hills that had been for several hours apparently changing 
position in our view. We met many camels and mules, 



88 



JERUSALEM. 



•with their hardy drivers, setting out on the long track 
we were just finishing ; and occasionally a few travellers. 
On a sudden, there was a cry of " Jerusalem !" and 
those before me waved a greeting ; and I trust and be- 
lieve many a fervent and pious prayer ascended at that 
moment from the ecclesiastics, and from the amiable 
and saint-like Louise. It was not, however, as I had 
imagined, the striking view of the whole city, " beau- 
tiful for situation, and the joy of the whole earth," which 
had been seen yet, but only the summit of the Eussian 
Hospice, a very large building, with many towers to its 
grand church, which is first seen over the brow of the 
hill. 

The first glance I had showed me the walls of Mount 
Zion, and part of the city. We descended to the Jaffa 
gate. The sides of the deep valley fall off almost im- 
mediately under the battlements ; but there is a path 
through a rough one all round them. The circuit may 
be made in an hour, and is extremely interesting. Is- 
suing from the Damascus gate, there is no valley ; nor 
is there one between it and the Jaffa gate, but an un- 
dulating plain, strewn over with fragments of ruins and 
rocks. It is on this side that the city has ever been 
attacked. 

Proceeding wearily, we reached, ere long, by a few 
crooked and steep lanes, our quarters, a large, airy 
mansion, the Austrian Pilgerhaus, near the Damascus 
gate. It is managed by a director and a priest, and 
the chapel is opposite the " Speisesaal." Every pilgrim 



st. Stephen's gate. 



89 



is expected to be present at morning mass and evening 
litany. Very near the Pilgerhaus is the house of 
Pontius Pilate, and the arch of the " Ecce Homo," from 
which our Lord was shown to the Jews. Father Ratis- 
bon, a converted Jew, has lately given a large sum for 
the whole property. His conversion was attended by 
very remarkable circumstances, as stated in a pamphlet 
giving an account of it. The ground on which the 
Jews stood, calling down upon themselves that curse 
which to this day has clung to their nation, is said to 
have some of the original pavement remaining. A con- 
vent for " the daughters of Zion " adjoins the arch, and 
from its interior this gallery can be reached. 

We went next day to Bethany, passing the convent just 
named, and issuing from the St. Stephen Gate. The spot 
where the Protomartyr was stoned is about half-way 
down. We descended the steep side of the valley to 
the church called the Grave of the Blessed Virgin. A 
long wide flight of stone steps lead to the sites therein 
venerated. Very dark they were, and the court to be 
crossed before reaching the church was filled with 
beggars and cripples innumerable. The house- watcher, 
or cavass, a spirited-looking young Arab, with sword 
and stave, a pointed sort of cane five or six feet long, 
with silver nob and formidable termination, to keep 
intruders off, and defend us in case of necessity, pre- 
ceded our party. These guards are allotted by the 
government to each of the consuls, and to the Austrian 
Pilgerhaus. The director himself also accompanied us. 



90 



BETHANY. 



We mounted the opposite side of the valley, passing the 
wall of the Garden of Gethsemane ; and from this site, 
looking back, traced what must have been our Blessed 
Lord's sad path in the hands of the rude multitude, after 
they had made him prisoner in the garden. How 
touching it is to follow from this spot the road crossing 
the bed of the brook Kedron, and winding along the 
steep up to that part of the walls in which was the de- 
spised gate by which He was made to enter. 

The walk towards Bethany is beautiful, along the side 
and over the brow of the hill. On the left is the ruin 
of a church, built by the Empress Helena on the site of 
Golgotha. We came next to the ruins of a house about 
two miles from Jerusalem, considered to be the house of 
Lazarus. At the back of it is a cave hewn in the rock 
just below, and steps lead down to the grave, entered 
by a low arch, before which Jesus stood and called forth 
his death-stricken . friend to life and light once more. 
There is space in the grave for several, and it was 
doubtless intended for the sisters also. Can a scene of 
more solemn interest be imagined, remembering the 
event that once passed there ? When Lazarus' last 
hour again seemed to be drawing near, how vividly 
must his memory have recurred to that wonderful 
awakening ! Three fierce-looking Arabs were at the 
cave's mouth. I should have been timid of descending, 
had they been to mount guard, and without so well- 
defended a party. Near the house is a fig garden, en- 
closed, towards which one may picture the peaceful 



MOUNT OF OLIVES. 



91 



family, in their daily avocations, looking across the thres- 
hold of the now roofless chambers shown as their abode, 
where they awaited the coming of their Heavenly guest 
in the simple humility of an earthly friend. With these 
thoughts what feelings of love and gratitude must be 
mingled ! He who was in the world, but not of it, yet 
stooped tenderly to every sorrow He met there, with 
word or deed of consolation and instruction. 

From the site of this remarkable event we ascended 
the hill, taking another way on our return, and passing 
a mosque and courts where once stood a Christian 
church on the place of the Ascension. A rock inside is 
pointed out with the print of a human foot, as the mark 
of His last step on the earth. Though tradition may 
err in much that it so positively asserts, yet the heart, 
in visiting these sacret sites, cannot but be stirred by 
the most sacred reminiscences. What events, pregnant 
with all that has the most lasting bearing on the desti- 
nies of humanity, have actually taken place in this 
neighbourhood, if not precisely in one particular spot, 
yet certainly in some of these localities. Is there not 
something infinitely touching in the thought that our 
Blessed Redeemer noticed the trees, the flowers, and all 
the scenes around us ? The Mount of Olives, especially, 
is often named as the place of His frequent retirement — 
Luke xx i., 37th verse — after his daily labour of teach- 
ing in the Temple. This mount, on the cool heights 
of which He so often lingered, forms a very beautiful 
object from Jerusalem, and while the eyes rest upon it 



92 



GARDEN OF GETHSEMANE. 



the mind is filled with the sacred recollections which 
it calls up. The octagon, which is now walled in, has 
still some beautiful capitals to its eight columns, and 
always stood, with the same dimensions as at present, in 
the centre of the Christian Church. From the minaret 
of the court adjoining this, wherein the mosque stands, 
and which encloses also the dwelling of a family, is a 
delightful prospect of Jerusalem and its valleys, the 
mountains of Moah, and part of the waters of the Dead 
Sea. From hence may be seen, on a perfectly clear 
day, the spot where the waters of Jordan mingle with 
those of the Lake of Galilee. The children brought us 
delicious water as we passed through the court, present- 
ing it to each in a green glass, and, as usual, were 
clamorous for " backsheesh " again and again. A spot 
near is that on which, according to tradition, the 
Apostles met to compose the Creed. With what feelings 
must they have written down that article " He ascended 
into Heaven," as they looked up, remembering how He 
had disappeared from their longing eyes, and the voice 
they heard announcing that in like manner He should 
return. Farther down the mount are the ruins of a 
chapel, marking the site where He once taught the 
Lord's Prayer. 

* We descended the mount and came to the Garden of 
Gethsemane ! An old monk opened the low door of a 
square walled space, enclosing several old olive-trees, 
and little white wooden palisades round flower-beds, 
thickly studded with roses, and pink and white double 



SCENE OF OUR LORD'S BETRAYAL. 



93 



stocks, most luxuriant in colour and size. I was much 
taken by surprise, expecting to see only dark large 
trees with a solemn shade. The trees which grow here 
have the appearance of great age, and the bulk of their 
trunks is immense. The monk has a small chamber in 
the enclosure. 

The idea of treading a spot so sacred made me tremble 
before entering ; but once within, everything contributed 
to dissipate that timid feeling — the flowers and the gay 
sunshine. In contemplating the place, one could easily 
realize the scene of the Saviour's betrayal into the hands 
of his enemies, who, struck with the majestic dignity 
which shone through the human presence of Him they 
sought, fell back and sunk on the ground, too soon, how- 
ever, recovering and " leading Him away." 

The spot on which Judas gave the treacherous salute 
that was to mark the victim, and yield Him up to the 
bitter hate and unrelenting persecution of those who 
sought His death, is pointed out by a broken pillar 
inserted in a rude wall outside the garden ; and near it 
is a tree which, by the pilgrims, has been considered as 
the one on which Judas hanged himself. The tree is 
enclosed by a wall, only of late years built to preserve 
it, on account of its great age. The remorse of that 
arch-traitor might well have been maddening enough to 
impel him to the deed, on re-visiting the scene of his 
crime. The side of the valley we found very steep and 
fatiguing on climbing it to return. The pool of Bethesda 
was pointed out on the left, as we passed through a 



94 



AUSTRIAN PILGERHAUS. 



narrow street between St. Stephen's Gate and the 
Austrian Pilgerhaus. A depot of soldiers is stationed 
just opposite the convent, near the Pilgerhaus and the 
Turkish governor's house. There is a good view from 
the roof of the Pilgerhaus of the dome of the mosque of 
Omar, and of the greater part of the city, whose dimen- 
sions are very limited, considering that it has been the 
scene of events of such profound interest to the whole 
human race. The Pilgerhaus stands high, in a pleasant 
garden, and is generally well appointed. 



95 



CHAPTER VI. 

The Damascus Gate — The Cave of Jeremiah — The Jews' Wailing-place 
— The American Church — The House of Annas — Of Caiphas — 
L e p ers — Keeping Vigil — Circuit of the Walls — English Mission — 
The Valley of Jehoshaphat— The Pool of Siloam— The Valley of 
Hinnom — The Road to Bethlehem — Convent of the Nativity — 
Chapel of the Grotto — St. Jerome — Bethlehem House — Fields of the 
Shepherds — Pools of Solomon — Gardens of Solomon. 

FRIDAY morning I went out by the Damascus Gate, 
the Royal Gate, which, with its crenellated battle- 
ments and two pointed arches, forms a fine entrance to 
the city, even though the interior arch is not in line 
with the outer one, which is ornamented with bosses. 
The grotto of Jeremiah is a cavern commanding a view 
of the city that should " remember in the days of her 
miseries all her pleasant things that she had in the days 
of old," and from whence all her glory should depart. 
There are other grottoes besides this large one, but they 
are in charge of a surly custode, who told us that unless 
we were Turks we could not enter. The inquiry made 
of a zealous Roman Catholic priest and his party sounded 
particularly odd. 

In the afternoon we went to the Jews' Wailing-place, 
to the west of the mosque of Omar. I was told that 
the Jews purchased the right of assembling there every 



96 



jews' wailtxg place. 



Friday, to lament over the desolation of their city. 
" The precious sons of Zion, comparable to fine gold, 
how are they come to be as earthen vessels !" as the 
prophetic spirit saw them, and -as they seemed indeed to 
us, standing before that remnant of the ancient wall of 
the Temple to lament. A few rabbis, wearing fur caps, 
read or chaunted passages from their ancient Scriptures, 
an act in which they were imitated by the other 
Jews on the ground, rocking themselves to and fro. 
I remarked especially one very old man, with a large 
Hebrew book, handsomely bound, and whose venerable 
beard swept the pages of the sacred volume. Women 
stood in line, with their faces to the wall, weeping, 
though it was evident that some of them found it diffi- 
cult to get any tears to flow. The whole assembly did not 
number more than eighty, I think, in all. The lane is 
very narrow, and there was just room enough for us to 
pass and observe them. The idea, however, of such an 
assemblage is touching, recalling to mind the various 
changes of fortune through which these remarkable 
people have passed, and suggesting others which they are 
probably destined yet to see. 

After this, we passed near the Jaffa Gate to the 
Armenian quarter, going by Bishop Gobat's residence. 
The church of St. James, which the Armenians possess, 
is very richly decorated. Doors of tortoise-shell and 
mother-of-pearl open to the sanctuary (the spot where, 
according to tradition, the apostle was beheaded). The 
chair of the first bishop of Jerusalem stands on the 



ARMENIAN CONVENT. 



97 



same position as the ancient one, and is so venerated, 
that another is placed beside it, to be used by the 
Armenian bishop. Carpets cover the floor of the 
church, and jewels and silver everywhere meet the eye. 
A curious picture, representing various heads, was not 
explained to me ; but I suppose they were the likenesses 
of certain early martyrs. Women were sitting on the 
floor, holding candles, although no service was going on. 
The person standing at the door sprinkled us with rose- 
water as we came out. 

From thence we went to the Armenian convent, 
where some very rough, homely, slip-shod nuns ap- 
peared before us in their chapel, a place where some 
sad remembrances are renewed ; for it was once the 
house of Caiphas, where our Saviour was struck by the 
soldier, after answering the high priest. A convent 
further on is said to have been the house of Annas ; and 
a small sanctuary beside the altar is considered to mark 
the place where Jesus was shut up for the night after 
being tried. 

We next visited the site of the Cenacolo, that large 
upper room where the disciples were commanded to 
make ready, and in which our Blessed Lord instituted 
the first ordinance of a Christian church, administering 
bread and wine to the small company who then formed 
it. Going out of the convent gate, we crossed a court, 
or piece of ground, on one side of which were the houses 
of the lepers, who are compelled to live there all together. 
A few of these distressed and frightful beings were 

II 



98 



PLACES OP INTEREST. 



sitting in a row, stretching out their maimed arms and 
hands towards us for alms. Another convent which we 
visited consisted of an oblong square building without 
windows, erected, as they all are, on some venerated 
site connected with our Saviour's sufferings. At its 
entrance we met the English Franciscan brother Louis. 

conducting Mr. H , of Northumberland, and two 

other gentlemen, all of whom had dined with us at 
Jaffa, over the building. In visiting these places of 
universal interest to Christians, it seems a pleasure to 
pilgrims even to meet one another. On entering the 
court, we observed around it the tombs of bishops and 
patriarchs, and several arches. Some of these were 
adorned with very beautiful crosses, sculptured in bas- 
relief : the figures on the patriarch's tomb being crozier 
and mitre, a lighted candle held by a hand, and two 
keys. One place was marked as that where Peter 
denied his Lord ; and a large stone under the altar 
in a chapel was held to be that rolled against the door 
of the sepulchre. 

Emerging from the convent, we came out on an open 
piece of ground commanding a view of the road to 
Bethlehem. Here were many Jewish tombs, amongst 
them those of a Joseph Pizzavicino. A certain house is 
shown which is said to be built on the site where the 
Virgin Mary lived, after our Saviour's death and resur- 
rection, with St. John, the beloved disciple. 

I went to see the sun set, and to look down into the 
valley, which is here seen to great advantage. An 



CHURCH OF THE HOLY SEPULCHRE. 



99 



Arab, in the red Bethlehemite costume, was leading his 
camel down on the other side, singing a rude song, as if 
to beguile the time on his journey. 

We returned by the Jaffa gate, passing under Mount 
Zion, where King David's palace stood. This night we 
kept vigil in the church of the Holy Sepulchre, of which 
the Franciscan monks are guardians. Some of them are 
always on watch therein, day and night. They pre- 
pared a frugal repast for us in the sacristy, the three 
who waited conversing cheerfully with us. After supper 
we were shown the sword of Godfrey of Bouillon, and 
the spurs he wore when he rode into Jerusalem, with a 
cup presented by Philip II. of Spain, and other valuable 
things from the treasury of gifts made to this church. 
After we had been lighted by a dim lamp to our place 
of retirement, a small chamber high up in the recesses 
of the walls, the attendant monks all left us. Yery 
cold, dismal, and prison-like looked the place, its narrow 
stair in the turret suggesting thoughts of captivity. 
The murmurs echoed from the church below, and the 
subdued sound of footsteps, only made us feel the more 
that we were utterly alone in a hidden nook of that 
immense building. My friend's brother, being a priest, 
kept the vigil, of course, with the brethren. 

When midnight approached, we descended into the 
church, where, after passing through its long, dim 
aisles, we observed the imposing canopy over the Holy 
Sepulchre, and the rotunda of stations round places 
hewn out of a rock of immense depth, originally behind 

H 2 



100 



SHRINE OF MOUNT CALVARY. 



the Sepulchre. The tomb of Joseph of Arimathea, which 
is also within these sacred precincts, was hewn into the 
solid rock. Guided only by the few lights at the 
sanctuaries, we ascended to the chapel of Mount 
Calvary ; and there, where everything was solemn and 
still, knelt down in the presence of a few figures covered 
up in dark garments, who were also watchers. Occa- 
sionally the tones of distant chaunting reverberated 
through the vast space below, and reached the place 
where we were engaged in prayer. 

From that sacred spot I offered my fervent supplica- 
tions for all those dear to me on earth ; and, in making 
my own confession of sin, the whole of my past existence 
seemed to rise in review before me, as if in preparation 
for the solemn account one day to be given when this 
life is over. My companion remained long in silent 
adoration ; and, meanwhile, I thought it not unsuitable 
to observe accurately the shrine of Mount Calvary, on 
the site where our gracious Saviour suffered an igno- 
minious death — that spot of earth on which Christians of 
all nations, and of every shade of faith, now look with 
the deepest reverence. In the centre is a life-size 
crucifix, the bending and drooping head expressing, at 
the same time, patient resignation and intense suffering. 
The top of the cross is garlanded with flowers. Stand- 
ing below, and also of life-size, are figures of St. John 
and the Blessed Virgin Mary ; while bas-reliefs in silver 
fill up the space behind. Before the shrine, which is of 
gold, are two small paintings on precious woods, bas- 



ARMENIAN AND GREEK SERVICES. 



101 



reliefs of the scourging of Christ, scenes from the Cruci- 
fixion, and a beautiful painting on glass of the Saviour 
crowned with thorns. 

The Armenian and Greek services commencing at the 
sepulchre below, we retired again to our lofty nook. 
The noise, however, was so great from the processions, 
that we came down again to the organ gallery. The 
six immense candles before the sepulchre were all il- 
luminated, and many priests were officiating, the people 
thickly crowded before the shrine fervently responding to 
their prayers. When this part of the service came to 
a conclusion, there was another procession of the Greeks, 
and more chaunting ; an expression which, to us, being 
so suggestive of melody and devotion, can scarcely be 
said to describe the strange uncouth croaking utterance 
of these devotees in their services, in which they cross 
themselves perpetually, appearing all the time grave and 
serious. 

Towards five o'clock the first morning mass was 
celebrated by a Latin priest within the sepulchre, after 
it had been cleansed, and arrayed with flowers and pure 
white and gold drapery spread over it. The second 
mass was said by our magnificent priest, from whose 
hand his pious sister received the consecrated wafer. 
His rich voice sounded with solemn effect within that 
sacred enclosure, while the "certain poor widow," who 
is daily in the church, and two or three of the monks, 
were kneeling in the outer sanctuary. 

The third mass was chaunted, the organ pealing forth 



102 



ENGLISH CHURCH. 



its most thrilling notes to welcome the morning's light. 
As soon as the church doors were open several Arabs 
came in, and pressing into the outer sanctuary, kissed 
the pavement fervently, but they were immediately put 
out by the brethren. The morning air was very sweet 
when we left the church at an early hour. As we 
crossed the space before the sacred building, we saw 
that but few of the sellers of crosses and beads, who 
usually fill it up, had returned to the Pilgerhaus. 

A flight of steps on the right, before entering the 
church of the Holy Sepulchre, leads up to a small chapel 
which is said to mark the spot on which the Blessed 
Virgin Mary stood near her divine son at the last hour. 
There is a grated window which looks from the chapel 
on Mount Calvary. The interior is light, and always 
adorned with fresh white flowers. 

Saturday 18th, I made the circuit of the walls. As 
is well known, Jerusalem is surrounded on three sides 
by deep valleys, and on the fourth by an undulating 
plain, dotted pleasantly with olive-trees, and covered 
with fine soft grass, which extends to the base of the 
walls, Groups of the Arab people, in their picturesque 
costume, are often seen sitting about under the shade, 
on the fragments of rock strewn over the broken ground, 

On Sunday we went to the English church, where 
Bishop Gobat preached from Samuel vii., 2nd, 3rd, and4th 
verses. The church is a handsome Gothic building, in a 
space enclosed for it. The house of the missionary, and 
the school-house, are near at hand. The children are 



VALLEY OF JEHOSIUPHAT. 



103 



instructed in singing, and manage the chaunts with 
tolerable accuracy. Girls are taught to work, and there 
is a House of Industry, where Jewish converts are made 
practically efficient in different trades. Near the 
bishop's house is a depot for books, where several inte- 
resting pamphlets on Jerusalem, and other parts of 
Palestine, illustrated by engravings, are to be had, as 
well as Bibles in many languages, and several books 
printed in Hebrew, for the use of converts. We 
paid a visit to the missionary's wife, Mrs. Franklyn, 
whose house, which is fitted up in the European style, 
modified to some extent according to the requirements of 
Oriental life, we found to be pleasantly cool. We saw 
here some pretty children, under the care of an Eastern 
woman, who was sleeping beside them against the 
divan. A talkative Poll parrot, not the least amusing 
member of this compact little establishment, conversed 
with great affability in English and French, and was 
master even of a phrase or two of Arabic. 

Monday 20th, we went out by the St. Stephen's Gate, 
and descending into the Yalley of Jehoshaphat, went en- 
tirely, not only through it, but also through the Yale of 
Hinnom (Jeremiah xxxii., 35) and the Yale of Gihon, 
the three valleys which enclose Jerusalem, and make 
its situation so beautiful. In the Yale of Jehoshaphat 
several ancient Jewish grave-stones are thickly strewn, 
as they are in all those valleys about Jerusalem, all of 
which are covered with that beautiful turf of soft green 
which is nowhere seen in greater perfection. We passed 



104 



FOUNTAIN OF MARY. 



the pyramidal structure called Absolom's Pillar, near 
which is the Tomb of Jehoshaphat, two handsome archi- 
tectural monuments, close against the steep rock. A 
recess, fronted by columns, is said to be the place where 
the terrified disciples hid themselves after their Master 
was taken and led away prisoner. Crossing a path 
spanning the brook Kedron, a rivulet which is dry in 
summer, we proceeded to the village of Siloa, which, as 
the only one between Bethany and the Mount of Olives, 
may be presumed to have been that indicated to the 
diciples as the place where they would find the ass 
tied on which their lowly Master was to make that 
triumphant entry into Jerusalem of which I so often 
thought when I saw throngs of people coming into the 
city by the same road as Easter time approached. 
Jesus was then coming from Bethany, and, as the 
village now stands, they must have come down upon it 
from the road. It is said to be inhabited at the present 
time by a most thievish set of Arabs, amongst whom it 
is scarce safe to venture without an adequate guard. 
A copious fountain, at which we looked in passing, is 
called the Fountain of Mary. As the approach to it is 
by a flight of steps, bordered with ferns near the water, 
the fountain, which lies in a deep cleft in the rock, 
where the pure, beautifully clear element is collected, is 
rather a dangerous place for the many children always 
there filling their skin bottles at its side. 

We thence went on to the Pool of Siloam, where our 
Lord opened the eyes of the blind man — a miracle which 



THE ACELDAMA. 



105 



seems to have especially irritated the Pharisees, whose 
anger was no less excited by the stout and courageous 
answers of the grateful and glad beggar whom they were 
not able to browbeat. The Pool of Siloam is in a deep 
excavation, with walls and divisions, in which was a 
little water. Steps led down to some of them ; and, 
from the remains of masonry, it seems that a church had 
once been erected there. An Arab was sitting amidst 
the trees and shrubs, with which the place is much 
overgrown ; and women were going down to the spring 
under an arched opening at the head of the reservoir — 
for such it has been, and must at one time have 
measured no less than fifty feet long, by eighteen broad, 
and nineteen deep. 

Leaving this picturesque spot, we re-crossed the 
valley, passing a tree on a slight elevation, where tra- 
dition records that the prophet Tsaiah was sawn asunder. 
We also passed the place where the altar to Moloch 
stood, and the hill where King Solomon erected temples 
to the false gods, called the Hill of Scandal to this 
day. Afterwards, ascending the side of the valley, we 
came to the Aceldama, on which beautiful platform 
we remarked the tombs of the strangers, besides some 
other building. At this part, the scene looking across 
to the city is very lovely, and was, when we had the 
happiness of seeing it, in delightful evening shade. 

Tuesday, 21st, we set off in the evening, about half- 
past three, for Bethlehem. We arrived there a little 
after sunset, and took up our quarters at the Franciscan 



106 



BETHLEHEM. 



convent of the Church of the Holy Nativity. We went 
out by the Jaffa gate, and descended into the valley by 
a very steep, stony path, where it was scarcely possible 
to keep our seat on the donkeys. Then, climbing the 
opposite side, and noticing the dry bed of the Pool of 
Gihon, we kept to the left, till we reached the summit 
of the slope, where we edged off the plain of Rephaim, 
across which we proceeded for some miles, till we 
reached the convent of Mt. Elias. The rising ground 
on which this monastery stands commands a view both 
of Jerusalem and Bethlehem, as well as of a long range 
of the wall-like mountains of Moab, along the further 
side of the Dead Sea. While we were gazing upon 
them, they presented a most beautiful appearance, being 
enveloped in a haze of rose-colour light, which continued 
as long as they remained within our sight. A white, 
rough chapel, called the Grave of Eachel, which we 
passed, is said to stand on the spot where Jacob mourned 
for the love of his early eventful youth, and set a pillar 
upon her grave. We soon approached Bethlehem, by 
a gentle, sloping path, alighting at the entrance of the 
village, into which we made our way, through lanes of 
houses, over rough stones, and among half -finished walls 
and courts, which remain for years in this imperfect 
state in Oriental towns. Coming at last to the convent 
walls, we were astonished at their fortress-like appear- 
ance, for such is their height and extent, that they 
enclose the immense church, the convent, and all its 
dependencies. We entered a long, lofty, sombre cor- 



THE CONVENT. 



107 



ridor, at the end of which, after a few moments of ex- 
pectation, appeared two monks of the order, with 
lanterns, to whom our priest had to show our letter 
from the convent at Jerusalem, before a low Gothic 
door was opened, and we were ushered into a large, 
well-lit, and handsome apartment, with long divans at 
each side, recessed windows, a supper-table spread for 
the evening meal, and full-length portraits of the 
Emperor and Empress of Austria hanging high up at 
the foot of the hall, facing a fine painting of St. Jerome, 
and the portraits of two other saints at the upper end. 
I admired the arrangement by which the royal personages 
were made to stand in presence of the holy men who 
occupied the place of honour. In the room, also, there 
was an article of furniture not often seen in monasteries, 
namely, a large mirror. An arched doorway led to the 
cloister ; and, from an opposite door, supplies of food 
were brought in to us. Father Giovanni, a Neapolitan 
monk, served us ; and glad I was, as usual, to hear 
again the Italian tongue, which, after the harsh German, 
is beautiful to me in almost any dialect. 

The grated window of our sleeping chamber above 
looked over terraced ground planted with vines, and 
divided into fields, where the gentle Ruth once gathered 
wheat after the reapers. All the slopes, too, were dotted 
with olive-trees, which appeared brightly defined against 
the cloudless and exquisitely soft blue sky above. 

When we descended to the Chapel of the Nativity our 
friend was officiating at mass. The steps leading down 



108 



ALTAR OF ST. JEROME. 



to the grotto from the church were occupied by Arab 
women wrapped in their thick white veils, while a 
few more knelt near the altar, on which a star in brass 
has replaced that in silver and precious stones which 
once commemorated in that place the guiding star that 
" stood over where the young child was." Three steps 
below the floor is the altar, at which, lamps are kept 
perpetually burning ; and here is a painting of great 
beauty. The entire grotto is of white marble, which, how- 
ever, is much concealed by poor hangings. I looked for 
the lamps of gold and silver which were said to be here, 
but none were to be seen. On asking Brother Giovanni 
the reason of their absence, I was told that they were 
kept locked up, and that the key was in the hands of 
the patriarch in Jerusalem, these precious vessels being 
used only on great festivals. The church has lofty 
porphyry columns, and has a fine appearance in its un- 
adorned proportions ; but the chapels of the Greeks and 
Armenians are much bedecked, and therefore tawdry in 
appearance. 

In making the round of the holy places one morning, 
I visited the cave and altar of St. Jerome, who spent 
many years of his life, died, and was buried, near the spot 
where his Saviour was born. Here, too, he translated the 
Old Testament from Hebrew into Latin. These shrines are 
all beneath the church, in narrow passages partly hewn 
in the rock. Through these passages the procession which 
takes part in the service daily winds, every one joining it 
bearing a lighted taper. The remainder of the morning 



PLAIX OF THE SHEPHERDS. 



109 



I passed under the convent walls, and on rocky seats 
near at hand, enjoying the exquisite quiet of the scene. 
In the evening I sat for an hour in an Arab house, in a 
room provided with double window and light balcony, 
from which there was a beautiful prospect of the moun- 
tains of Moab and of part of the Dead Sea. My friend 
who was with me bought dozens of rosaries and crosses, 
all of rough local workmanship. Bagfuis of small medal- 
lions and mother of pearl crosses, too, were shown us, 
but I could scarce take my eyes off the fascinating pros- 
pect, though the sellers and their goods were objects of 
interest also, especially the former, dark handsome lads 
with a gentle expression of countenance, and one or two 
women in the background. The chamber in which I 
sat was remarkable for its cleanliness, and for the abund- 
ance both of air and light with which it was supplied. 
The next evening I had a view of the plain whereon the 
" shepherds were keeping watch over their Hocks by 
night." The fields had a lovely appearance seen from a 
distance, covered as they were with the early growing 
corn, which gave them a bright green hue. To gaze up 
into that sky where angel forms once showed themselves 
to mortal eyes, and whence angelic harmony poured 
down, was better than going into a poor whitewashed 
Greek chapel, daubed with portraits of doubtful saints, 
where perhaps we were expected to join the procession 
with tapers in our hands, As we came back we were beset 
by a crowd of persevering boys, who solicited with untir- 
ing perseverance the perpetual " backsheesh." The 



110 POOLS OF SOLOMON. 

road, too, which for more than two miles was covered 
with rough stones, caused us a great amount of fatigue 
in addition. 

Thursday, 23rd, I attended high mass at an early hour 
in the grotto, through the depths of which, as heard 
from above, the beautiful music and the fine voices of the 
singers reverberated with a fine effect. In the fresh 
pleasant afternoon a young French invalid priest and one 
of the junior Franciscans accompanied us to the Pools of 
Solomon, three immense reservoirs, partly excavated in 
the solid rock and partly constructed of masonry of great 
strength, the work of that gifted and favoured monarch. 
Before reaching them we rode along the edge of a deep 
valley, in which are gardens, also attributed to him. The 
whole ground is now in the possession of an Englishman, 
who has purchased it, built a house upon it, and now 
occupies himself in tending the gardens. These gardens 
appear to have been pleasure-grounds embellished with 
fountains, in every way suitable for a luxurious and 
kingly retreat ; and in this retirement it may be supposed 
the monarch who spake of trees, from the cedar that is 
on Lebanon even to the hyssop that springeth out of the 
wall, studied specimens of shrubs and flowers of rare 
beauty, indulging at those periods of seclusion, when he 
retired from the public duties of royalty, in those medita- 
tions of profound wisdom which he has left for the prac- 
tical instruction of mankind. The gardens, which fill the 
whole of a sheltered valley, extend upwards in slopes, some 
of which are exposed to, and others shaded from, the sun. 



IMMENSE RESERVOIRS. 



Ill 



The pools are one above another, and with small 
spaces between them. The largest, to which we came 
first, is 500 feet by 200. The others are respectively 
400 by 300, and 300 by about 200. In remote times 
these structures must have excited the wonder of the 
travellers from distant lands who came to the Court of 
Solomon. The modes by which these immense reser- 
voirs were supplied with water has formed the subject 
of inquiry by scientific men, whose different theories 
explain the problem with more or less success, although 
the more probable opinion appears to be that they were 
supplied by hidden springs beneath, which, except at 
periods of great drought, kept them constantly filled. 
On the evening of my visit to these venerable reservoirs 
there was very little water in them. I suppose because 
their management is not perfectly understood. 



112 



CHAPTER VII. 

St. Giovanni in Montague — Convent of Spanish Monks — Superior of the 
Nunnery — The Church of the Convent — Shrine of John the Baptist 
— Nuns — Convent Garden — View of the Village — Return to Jerusa- 
lem — Prince Arthur in the Holy Land — The Stations — Church of 
the Holy Sepulchre — Scene in the Interior — Arabs — Way to 
Emmaus — The Marchioness — An Angry Friar — The Streets of 
Jerusalem at Night — On the Mount of Olives — Visit to the Nun- 
nery of Notre Dame de Sion — The Tombs of the Kings — The 
English Church — Convent School Discipline — Out with the Nuns — 
Visit to Bethany — Palm Sunday — The Greek Convent of St. Croix 
— Moslem Procession — Mecca Pilgrim — Locusts. 

"FEBRUARY 24th, we set off for the village of St. 

Giovanni in Montagne, the birth-place of St. John 
the Baptist, about three hours' distance from Bethlehem. 
The roads are terrible, the descent to the convent being 
down steps of rock, covered with huge stones, over which 
the poor animals could tread only with difficulty. This 
is a religious establishment of Spanish monks. The 
large arched entrance is kept locked and barred, a small 
postern being opened for the admission of visitors. We 
were informed that this plan was adopted in order to 
keep out the Arabs, who used to push in, mounted on 
their horses, eagerly pressing their demands, or, in other 
words, begging. 

Fraulein B- and I installed ourselves in the 



DAUGHTERS OF SION. 



113 



hospice reserved for female travellers. Gentlemen are 
accommodated within the cloister. Our rooms were 
two large airy chambers, each having four beds, with 
curtains ranged along the walls. We dined in one, re- 
serving the other for sleeping and dressing. The 
garden appeared to be large and well planted, a terrace 
bearing a line of poplar-trees, and shaded by a few fig- 
trees, and the old convent wall, forming the background 
to the whole. The superior conducted us into the 
garden, where we had a view out over hill and valley, a 
little convent, built in remembrance of some saintly 
deed, being conspicuous on the nearest slope. The nuns 
inhabiting it, a branch from the Daughters of Sion, in 
Jerusalem, who occupy themselves in the care and 
"education of native children," have a new convent 
just finished. Some of the sisters remain permanently, 
others exchange occasionally with those in Jerusalem. 
We called on them, and were invited to sup on Satur- 
day, the Feast of the Annunciation, when they gave us 
an elegant and hospitable repast, all ordered and pre- 
pared by their own fair hands. I had the pleasure of 
riding back to the Holy City on Sunday with three of 
these amiable and graceful-mannered young women, who 
have donkeys and side-saddles of their own, and when 
they go out are guarded by two Moors dressed in white, 
who are always in attendance on them. One of these 
dusky followers, pistol in hand, lighted us home after 
the supper, the superior and Brother Giuseppe also 
accompanying us, and so forming quite an ecclesiastical 

I 



114 CHURCH OF THE CONVENT OF ST. GTOYANNI. 

party, romantic enough to have pleased Mrs. Kadclhfe 
herself, if she could have imagined us passing through a 
wild Arab village in darkness. 

The church of the Convent of St. Giovanni contains a 
chapel, marking the spot of John the Baptist's birth, to 
which access is obtained by steps leading down to it 
beneath the floor of the church. At the shrine are 
three marble bas-reliefs, representing the visit of the 
Virgin to St. Elizabeth, the birth of John the Baptist, 
and the angel appearing to Zacharias beside the altar of 
incense in the temple. Over the high altar of the 
church are two paintings of the Virgin — one as the Virgin 
simply, and that above as the Madonna, wearing a crown, 
and surrounded by angels. Portraits of Santa Chiara 
and of St. Francis are on each side. The organ, which 
is a very fine one, is played by a blind organist. Our 
priest, who is a proficient in vocal music, sung an ex- 
quisite tenor, and then a fine bass solo. He is, indeed, 
a wonderfully gifted man, seeming at home and au fait 
in everything which he attempts, whether ecclesiastical, 
social, or learned, while his amiable sister is a born saint. 

From the cupola of the new convent chapel at St. 
Giovanni, the nuns pointed out the ground on which 
the combat between David and Goliath took place, and 
the brook from which the young pastoral warrior drew 
the stones with which he smote the giant. About two 
hours distant is the wilderness where John the Baptist 
lived upon locusts and wild honey, the road to it wind- 
ing round the hill nearest the convent. The nuns spoke 



A TRANQUIL HOUR. 



115 



with pleasure of what their garden would be in a year 
or two, and showed me an immense fig-tree, under 
whose shade a seat was to be placed, where they would 
have the privilege of sitting during their " hour of 
recreation." It is very touching to see the sweet con- 
tent of these interesting young women, who appear 
perfectly satisfied with the simple and innocent pleasure 
of the useful life they lead. A great part of their time 
is passed in the care and education of children, who 
are fed, clothed, and housed entirely in and by the 
convent. 

On Sunday afternoon the nuns came down to the 
church of the Franciscan house, with all their children, 
who, like little wild flowers, covered all the mats, 
dropping down on their knees in clusters, a nun, in her 
chaste and becoming attire (black, edged with white), 

kneeling in the centre of each group. Fraulein B 

and myself had a sweet, tranquil hour this afternoon,, 
under the trees of the terrace in the garden, during 
which the former sang a hymn in German about the 
flight into Egypt. The steps of the fugitives, we 
thought, might have led them over the very ground 
on which we were sitting, every spot in this land is so 
suggestive of Scriptural events, and recalls with such 
aptitude familiar sentences from Holy Writ, which seem 
engraved on every landscape. 

After prayers in the church, we set off for Jerusalem 
by a steep path, which was too precipitous for us to ride 
up. The view, looking back on St. Giovanni, was most 

I 2 



116 



RETURN TO JERUSALEM. 



picturesque, imbedded as it lies in the valley, and with 
the convents on the side of the hill above ; while the 
intersecting lines of hills in the distance present to the 
beholder an outline of loftier acclivities, tinted with the 
glowing colours of evening. We passed a large, for- 
tress-looking Greek convent on the right, before reach- 
ing which we looked down on a party of pilgrims 
making their way through a valley towards the " wilder- 
ness " where John the Baptist lived upon Jocusts and 
wild honey, and where a church has now been built, 
in a situation, as I understand, of great natural beauty. 

As we re-entered Jerusalem, by the Damascus Gate, 
the sun was setting in a glorious halo of colours — 
purple, gold, and crimson. On our way to our con- 
vent, we passed groups of white-wrapped women, Arabs 
in their gay dresses, Turks with white, green, or red 
turbans, Copts in their single garment falling in folds 
round their tall, lank forms — their dark, thin faces and 
mournful black eyes surmounted by the tight-twisted 
folds of purple cloth wound round their head — and 
natives of many a distant land besides, sitting on the 
tombs, wandering among ruins, or reclining on frag- 
ments of rock. Many were riding horses and mules, 
from the handsomely caparisoned Arabian to the poor, 
tired, but still spirited animals which travellers from 
Jaffa help to kill twice every year before the great 
festivals. A scene of greater, animation than that 
before the city walls cannot be conceived, recalling, 
as it does, to the stranger as he approaches them, many 



PRINCE ARTHUR IN THE HOLY LAND. 117 

an incident of deep and sacred import from the pages 
of Holy Writ. I heard after that the young Prince 
Arthur's tent had been pitched somewhere on the 
ground ; but I was too much occupied with recollec- 
tions of Oriental life, and of the sacred localities amongst 
which I had passed several days, to give much attention 
to the circumstance, even had I been aware of it at that 
moment. His appearance at church, and his devo- 
tional deportment, I was told, were very pleasing to 
witness. The bishop made a moment's pause on enter- 
ing his house, accompanied by the prince, that the 
latter might enter first ; but the royal youth, with a 
gesture of profound respect, intimated his desire not to 
precede the bishop, whom he followed with becoming 
humility. 

The next morning the prince was off for the Dead 
Sea, the pacha accompanying him. From the top of the 
convent Notre Dame de Sion, we saw the Turkish guard 
riding by for the protection of the great company of 
Greek pilgrims departing for the Jordan. The church 
of the Holy Trinity was all the more quiet for their 
absence in the evening. My companion and myself 
visited the stations, two of which are inside the convent 
in the Via Dolorosa ; the third outside the Austrian Pil- 
gerhaus, where the Saviour first fell ; the fourth is by 
the arch where the Blessed Virgin Mary met her Divine 
Son bearing the cross ; the fifth, beside the house of 
Veronica ; the sixth at the spot where Simon the 
Cyrenean was made to carry the cross — the two latter 



118 



THE HOLY PLACES. 



being just at the base of Mount Calvary ; the seventh 
and eighth are much higher up, some steps turning from 
the right out of the bazaar leading to two pieces of 
columns that mark the places. The other six stations 
are inside the church of the Holy Sepulchre. 

On the 28th, we visited, for the last time, in company 
with my interesting friends, the holy places, and watched 
with profound interest and sympathy the brother and 
sister kneeling side by side at each of them, after the 
procession had passed, as if it were to receive and take 
away with them some portion of that unction of sanctity 
which hung like incense about these sacred spot?. This 
evening I particularly observed the beauty of the jasper 
or cornelian crosses that ornament the lamps hanging 
over the anointing stone, on which our Lord's sacred 
body was laid before being placed in the tomb, the 
brass chains by which they are suspended being all 
formed of crosses. Every Latin, Greek, Armenian, 
Copt, or Abysinnian, on entering the church, kneels and 
kisses the stone. It forms an object of most interesting 
contemplation to the Christian to stand in this sacred 
spot, and to observe that not for one moment is it to be 
seen without devout worshippers of all nations. The 
spot where that sacred body lay, surrounded only 
by the weeping women, and by those few devoted 
followers who, with the good Joseph of Arimathea, saw 
that he was u dead already/' is now distinguished by 
the celebration of the most impressive rites that imagina- 
tion, superstition, or zeal can conceive, to mark and 



VISIT TO EMMAUS. 



119 



honour the place. My friend came sorrowfully away 
on this last evening from a place which, to one 
of her deep and sincere spirit of piety, was so pro- 
foundly impressive. I could not but feel grateful 
for the privilege I enjoyed of still remaining at 
Jerusalem. 

On the 29th, I set off for Emmaus at ten a.m., going 
out by the Damascus Gate, while my friends went by 
that of Jaffa. We met at the convent about two p.m. 
We proceeded over a road cut in the rock, rising and 
declining with the steeps over which it led us. We met 
only some Arabs. The negro by whom we were accom- 
panied, who proved quite faithful, wore a red dress, and 
red and yellow turban. As the only words he could 
say were si and buono, I was not much troubled with 
his conversation, and could enjoy my own thoughts 
undisturbed. He frequently sang snatches of a wild 
song, which, however, did not prevent him keeping his 
attention fixed on all the difficulties of the route, and 
kneeling at proper times for me to dismount and mount 
again, which were all the incidents that marked this 
journey, during which the air was delightfully balmy. 
We passed a village on the summit of an eminence, 
the path beneath which was sprinkled with blood. 
While some of the inhabitants were contemplating it, I 
heard them murmur the word "Nazarene." At this 
village I gladly saw the Arabs turn off, and watched 
them after they had wound down the steep to the road 
threading the valley. There was some danger of 



120 



THE MARCHIONESS NICOLAI. 



robbery from these fellows, with the alternative, if they 
did not find what satisfied them, of a stab. The Aus- 
trian Pilgerhaus in the background was, I believe, a 
powerful protection to us. Travellers must not indulge 
in contemplative rides in this wild country, where, in 
the forgetf ulness which solitude inspires, one may fre- 
quently be exposed to some unexpected danger. Leaving 
the village, and proceeding on our course, not a human 
being was be seen — nothing but hills, stony hills and 
valleys, with here and there an olive-tree. Near Emmaus 
I saw the sea in the distance, and the plains towards 
Jaffa. 

We arrived at last at our destination, hot, hungry, 
and tired. Our friends, too, had just come, their route 
having led them over a dreadfully precipitous and rough 
succession of valleys and hills. As it happened, work- 
men were in the convent at the moment, and they were 
unable to afford us the generous hospitality which in- 
variably awaits travellers. The Marchioness Nicolai, 
foundress of the establishment, came out from her bare 
room, in which, though there was nothing in it except 
her bed and table, with a loaf of bread and a bottle of 
wine, she had been staying some days. A door opened 
from her chamber into a large arched apartment, on the 
site of which tradition places that chamber wherein the 
Saviour tarried with his two disciples, and " sat at 
meat." The sun was shining full upon the spot, and it 
was very sultry, but towards evening it became cool and 
pleasant. 



AMUSING INCIDENT. 



121 



The Marchioness is a little woman, considerably 
advanced in life, but with the remains of some beauty, 
particularly lovely teeth. She has devoted her time 
and fortune to the erection of this religious house. 
From a house adjacent to it there is a fine view, which 
she kindly accompanied me to see. We left her with 
an agreeable remembrance of the kindness and polite- 
ness with which she had entertained us. A troop of 
pretty white and black goats were gathered in the shade 
near a pond as I came towards them, there to be shorn 
under a tree close by the house. An amusing incident 
occurred while we were here. One of the brethren was 
climbing an olive-tree to gather the fruit. The ladder was 
placed against a weak branch, which broke, precipitating 
the ladder, with his reverence on it, down to the ground. 
The Arab who was the cause of this disaster richly de- 
served the sound drubbing which he got from the father. 
Monks, it is unnecessary to say, can use as well as wear 
the cord, when occasion reciuires, a fact which I saw 
illustrated in another place, where some mischievous 
urchin, who had grasped at a little purse on a careless 
lady's arm, received suitable castigation from a brother 
who opportunely happened to be near. 

The road to Eamleh winds round the shoulder of the 
hill after passing the convent, and is nearly a ten hours' 
ride over such tracks as in this country pass for roads. 
It was sunset long ere we reached Jerusalem — a glori- 
ous sunset, which I almost risked my neck in turning 
round to see, the ground over which we were passing 



122 



GLIMPSES OF DOMESTIC LIFE. 



was so rough. We passed some caves on the left, and 
crossed the edge of the plain on the side of the Eussian 
Hospice ground, around which were numberless mules, 
horses, and donkeys, belonging to a train of pilgrims just 
arrived. We entered by the Jaffa Gate, which was just 
wide enough to admit late comers, and threading some 
narrow dark streets of the Holy City, found that it was 
rather nervous work to reach our destination. No 
hostile demonstration, however, was made by the few 
people abroad. Glimpses into habitations shut up during 
the day now revealed to us groups sitting round the 
rooms, or leaning against the walls, sometimes playing 
on some rude instrument, or listening to a speaker 
squatted in the midst. Many appeared, also, as if 
settling down to sleep on the bare floor, their day robes 
drawn over them forming their only covering. In one 
house we beheld a group gathered round a large pan, into 
which the whole company by turns dipped their hands. 

On the 30th, I set off early to spend the day out, un- 
shackled by friends or plans, taking with me only a 
young guide, who spoke Italian ; a pretty lad, about 
eleven years of age, who had been educated in the 
Latins' school, and read well. " Where will the sig- 
nora go ?" he asked. " Never mind," I replied, " go 
on, and we will follow wherever our wandering footsteps 
lead us. We issued out by the gate of St. Giacomo, 
down the steep, and crossed the valley, resting in the 
cave near Shiloh village, at which a wild-looking Arab 
came up and asked for bread. We moved off, however, 



MOUNT OLIVET. 



123 



taking our way beside a beautiful field of young 
growing wheat. We sat down under a tree, to take 
a modest repast of bread and oranges. We had 
by chance paused at a spot whence we had a most 
superb view of the Mosque of Omar and the city. 
Oh ! how beautiful it must have been when that house 
which King Solomon built for the Lord stood within it 
in all its splendour, and the Queen of Sheba came to 
Jerusalem with a very great train, with camels bearing 
spices, and very much gold, and precious stones, Solo- 
mon sitting on his great throne of ivory, overlaid with 
the best gold, with twelve lions on each side of the 
six steps of it — the like whereof was not made in any 
kingdom to receive her ; and, on that great day, when, 
after the dedication of the Temple, all Israel were bless- 
ing the king and going to their tents joyful and glad of 
heart ! I ascended to the summit of Mount Olivet, 
after long contemplating the city, which is so distinctly 
visible from the slopes of the mount. At a short dis- 
tance, I observed many Arabs directing their steps 
towards a tomb. They all started up in a moment on 
beholding me and my guide, and, forming a half circle, 
came towards us, appearing, as they approached, to be 
part of a tribe of Bedouins, from whose vicinity we 
thought it best to make a precipitate retreat towards 
the few houses near ; whence, when they had disap- 
peared, we returned to the city. We entered by the Gate 
of St. Eustachio, on looking back from which we saw a 
multitude of camels, Turks on horseback, with their 



124 



NOTRE DAME DE SION. 



followers, Arabs, and women, all turning citywards, 
coming slowly up the long slope, to gain admission be- 
fore the gates shut. 

The same evening I paid a visit to the superieure of 
Notre Dame de Sion. A tall black stood at the door, 
and immediately on my entrance a dignified-looking 
nun showed me into the red parlour. The superieure 
soon appeared, gave me a warm reception, and with 
great courtesy conducted me to a chamber on the upper 
terrace, the windows looking towards Mount Olivet, 
while through the open door was an imposing view 
of Jerusalem. The chapel was lighted up, and children, 
who were very quiet, clustered round one of the nuns 
seated at the harmonium, and sang verses of a pious 
character. A life-size figure of the Saviour, bound and 
crowned with thorns, was shaded with the draped red 
curtains which line all the walls. Over the altar, 
which is covered with white silk, is the head of Jesus, 
with thorns encircled, which seems to be deeply set in a 
recess, and is seen through glass. A low arch divides 
the part of the chapel in which is the altar from the 
rest, which is fitted up with seats for the kneeling black- 
veiled nuns. 

The forenoon of the 31st was passed in repose and peace 
in the house of prayer ; and in the afternoon I went 
out from the Gate St. Stephen to St. Giacomo, which 
overlooks the deep valley of Jehoshaphat. Next day the 
superieure proposed visiting the tombs of the kings ; 
and, accordingly, at three in the afternoon, I went out 



TOMBS OF THE KINGS. 



125 



with her, accompanied by one of the nuns and the young 
invalid French priest, all the party but the sivperieure 
herself on donkeys, several of which animals are in the 
possession of the nuns. At St. Giovanni there was a 
white one, which, with the rest, seemed to be well kept 
and kindly used. They knew their names, and when 
called, would come forward and take leaves from any 
hand that offered them. 

The tombs of the kings are half an hour's distance 
from the Damascus Gate, on the right. It was by the 
road leading to Damascus that Saul went breathing out 
threatenings against the disciples of the Lord, and on 
which, as he came near to Damascus, he heard that 
voice, and was surrounded by that light from heaven, 
which effected his wonderful conversion, the results of 
which were manifest in the zeal by which the great 
Apostle brought so many under the yoke of Christ. 

On arriving at the tombs we descended the steps 
hewn out of the rock, beside a wall of granite, and 
entered the enclosure by the upper part of an arched 
gateway, all the remainder being filled up with earth. 
The enclosure forms a spacious square, at one side of 
which is a wide opening, the border sculptured in a 
pattern of double circles and bunches of grapes. Only 
a small portion of this is now left entire. Edging the 
cavity is another pattern, the sculpture being of a 
waving design, the workmanship of which is very 
beautifully finished. Yery little of it, however, remains 
perfect. 



126 



SERVICE AT THE ENGLISH CHURCH. 



The tombs are entered by a low archway, within 
which is a small chamber, with tombs in recesses exca- 
vated in the solid rock. Parts of the doorways which 
once closed these abodes of the royal dead lie about, 
hacked by devastators who have long since carried away 
every vestige of these interesting relics of a remote 
age. The work certainly looks more modern than the 
time of the Jewish kings, and it must be difficult to fix 
any period to it. The workmanship of the decorations 
in Solomon's Temple is of the most finished and artistical 
character. We descended yet lower to another excava- 
tion, the recesses in which still appeared as if ready to 
receive royal remains. The stone in this excavation 
was white, and glittering with water, trickling slowly 
down as if to form stalactites. In each chamber there 
were recesses, in which were ruined steps, apparently 
leading to other chambers below. 

On emerging from this excavation we proceeded to 
visit one which the Jews had filled in with earth, to 
prevent, as far as they could, Christians from profaning 
the place where their ancient kings lay. Men, women, 
and children are said to have assisted in this work, 
which they accomplished hurriedly, as if afraid of being 
interrupted and forbidden to continue their labours. 

On April the 2nd, we went to morning service at the 
English church. The prayer for the Turkish Sultan 
seems scarcely earnest enough, if intended as one for his 
conversion to Christianity, but doubtless there are 
reasons for so cautiously wording it, " Lead him into 



SCHOOL CHILDREN. 



127 



the way of peace." One of the collects for Good Friday 
contains an earnest prayer, that might be used every 
Sunday, and which, from its applicability to the hear- 
ers, would be joined in fervently by every true 
Christian present. There surely can be no dread of 
Moslem eavesdroppers, for I never yet met a Turk who 
understood English. When we returned to the peace- 
ful convent, how charming was the aspect of quiet and 
purity which it presented ! The noise of the children at 
stated times of the day is irritating to many, but the 
kind sisters seem to think it cheerful. 

This afternoon I was summoned to the class-room, 
where the weekly report of each child's behaviour is 
read out in presence of the powers, the lady superieure, 
two of the nuns, the young priest, and myself, occupy- 
ing the tribunal. A number of red ribbons, with 
mother-of-pearl crosses, were laid on a table, and as each 
name was called out, its little owner presented herself 
alone before the priest, from whom she received the 
honour of the red ribbon, or was stigmatized and lectured, 
the unfortunate little delinquents in the latter dilemma 
returning to their seats " plucked." One, whose misde- 
meanours were of a very heinous description, was dis- 
missed from the room. I was glad to' perceive, how- 
ever, that the red ribbons, from the number bestowed, 
made a very gay appearance at last. The fault of " not 
keeping silence " seemed to be one of the especial causes 
why they were not more generally bestowed on the 
youthful candidates. At the conclusion the young 



128 



PICTURESQUE SCENE. 



priest gave a short address to the little children of 
Jerusalem, which was very pretty and touching in the 
circumstances, especially with such immediate reminis- 
cences of Him who blessed little children. 

Pretty sister Maria-Cor, who was reporter, did her 
part very well. The aspect of consciousness with which 
some naughty little maiden advanced to hear her trans- 
gression described, and suffer from the public exposure 
of her misdeeds, was, I must confess, in some cases, 
temptingly risible. The system, however, is very good, 
and it is a pity we grown people are not amenable to 
some such discipline, which might make us more watch- 
ful over ourselves. 

On Monday, the 3rd, as I went outside St. Eustachio 
Gate, a caravan of poor pilgrims was entering the city. 
The road was lined for some distance with white- 
wrapped women sitting in groups on the grass ; while 
camels grazed on the dry herbage, and horsemen came 
up attended by negroes. Many pilgrims on the oppo- 
site side of the valley were going to and coming from 
Bethany or the Jordan. The picturesque character of 
the scene was much enhanced by a number of Turkish 
soldiers, who, with their music, had turned out as a 
guard of honour for some expected arrival. The scattered 
trees, the deep trenches, and the rugged rocks close 
under the walls, from this point to the Damascus Gate, 
render the scene so picturesque, that one is never tired 
of admiring it at every step. 

The afternoon of the 4th being bright, I visited the 



VISIT TO BETHANY. 



129 



Fountain of Mary, and went round to its other opening, 
the arch of the Pool of Siloam ; returning under the 
village of Shiloh, whose wild inhabitants, as before, 
looked down wistfully upon us as their lawful prey, 
though the sight of the tall negro whom, as usual, we had 
with us, kept them quite at bay. We passed on through 
this ever-interesting valley, whose rocks even seem elo- 
quent of times gone by. We met flocks of fine sheep, 
with large, bushy tails, a species that are indigenous to 
this country. Their young lambs were beside them, 
carefully guarded by their dusky guides. Smiling Sister 
Maria-Cor, the happiest-looking young nun I ever saw, 
and the amiable superieure were always respectfully 
greeted by the natives of all ranks. I looked, in the 
loneliness of this deep rocky valley, with unsated de- 
light on a scene that was so novel to me, the nuns, with 
their white-edged dresses and silver crosses, and the 
sable guard following them ; while the wild Bedouins 
and Arabs, who passed at intervals, seemed to realize 
some scene of Eastern romance. When they paused at 
the point crossing the Saviour's Pathway (that Lamb led 
to the slaughter from Gethsemane), reverently repeat- 
ing their prayers, the group would have formed a striking 
picture. 

On the 7th, I went to Bethany with two of the sis- 
ters and some of the children, attended by both the 
negroes. We were to spend most of the day out, 
cutting thorns for the beautifully-made crowns which 
the nuns prepare. We passed a tree of blooming May 

K , 



130 



PALM SUNDAY, 



beside the road between the rise of two hills ; and to 
the ecstasy of the little ones of the happy party, we 
dismounted on the summit, leaving the mules to graze 
below, and set diligently to work, selecting the thorn 
stems with little crooks made on purpose, an operation 
in which I assisted now and then, often, however, rest- 
ing under the spreading olive-tree to read, or look at the 
others. As usual, many pilgrims passed us, as well as 
a Turkish family, well mounted, with two veiled ladies 
and children. A persevering little beggar was so 
frightened by the sudden apparition of the negro I 
summoned to drive him off, that I think he will hardly 
follow another foreigner who may stray that way appa- 
rently alone. Every quiet moment is disturbed by 
these young plagues. We returned with one donkey 
laden with branches. 

The 9th being Palm Sunday, there was service in the 
church of the Holy Sepulchre, before the entrance of 
which the patriarch was seated distributing palms, one 
of which I received from his hand, at the same time 
kissing his ring. Franciscan 'friars and pilgrims, all 
carrying palms, made the round of the sepulchre three 
times ; after which there was high mass, with much 
ceremony, in the aisle, a particular part of which is 
revered as the spot on which Mary Magdalene saw the 
Saviour after his resurrection. On this, as on every 
day of Easter time, soldiers were placed both within and 
without the church to preserve order. In the evening 



MOSLEM PROCESSION. 



131 



we went with the nuns and children to see St. Croix, 
the large Greek convent which we passed in coming 
from St. Giovanni in Montagne. The chapel is poor 
and tawdry, the only thing remarkable in it being an 
ancient stone mosaic pavement. There are some stu- 
dents here, with rooms in the convent ; and in the 
refectory is a marble table. The air, beautifully fresh, 
was fragrant with the odour of orange and lemon- 
trees growing in the cold, shady courts. The sun- 
shine has appeared at last, and after the cold winds 
which have prevailed all this week, its presence is very 
agreeable. 

On Thursday morning a large Moslem procession, 
returning from a pilgrimage to what they consider the 
tomb of Moses, amongst the mountains of the Dead 
Sea, passed under the walls of the convent, along the 
Via Dolorosa. We had seen it on the same route some 
days previously ; but its numbers were now much in- 
creased, the pilgrims from Mecca having joined it. 
On entering Jerusalem, they had performed a slow sort 
of solemn dance, swinging the body backwards and 
forwards, the principal movements of which consisted in 
leaps and bounds into the air, as high and as often as 
their strength would permit ; the face, meanwhile, pre- 
serving an expression of solemn gravity. One can 
better understand, after seeing this performance, David's 
dancing before the ark. His wife's aristocratic com- 
ment, too, on her spouse's Terpsichorean exhibition, 

K 2 



132 



CHURCH OF THE HOLY SEPULCHRE, 



seemed, according to our modern notions, very suitable 
to the occasion. The standard of the prophet, green, 
with a crescent in the centre, preceded the procession, 
in "which there were many other banners, the whole 
being led by a large company of soldiers. The city 
walls and the tops of the houses were covered with 
gazers, looking with admiration on the Bedouin horse- 
men, with their long lances and fine steeds, who, in 
the living line that passed, were most remarkable for 
their gallant bearing. 

On Wednesday evening, I went to the church of the 
Holy Sepulchre, to witness the celebration of the office of 
the " Tenebre." The clergy were gathered before the 
shrine, and the patriarch, without his mitre, seated himself 
with his back to the door of the Crusaders' chapel. Candles 
were arranged on each side of the shrine, as in the Sis- 
tine chapel at Eome, and were extinguished, after each 
chaunt, in the same manner. The music, however, was 
so inferior to that never-to-be-forgotten melody in the 
" Miserere," that I did not repeat the visit next even- 
ing, especially as the crowd, before and behind our 
seat, had been dense and overpoweringly odoriferous. 
There were, in fact, no places courteously set apart 
for ladies, the space being too confined and the number 
of real pilgrims so great. 

Thursday evening, while admiring from the upper 
terrace the blue colouring of the Moab mountains, a gust 
of wind brought a cloud of yellow locusts, which fell in 
an exhausted state on the pavement, soon to be followed 



YELLOW LOCUSTS. 



133 



apparently by another cloud of them, still in the air. 
These creatures are looked upon here as the forerunners 
of famine and misery, coming in such numbers that they 
devour the crops and devastate the country. 



134 



CHAPTER VIII. 

Good Friday in Gethsemane — The Garden of Gethsemane — The Mosque 
of Omar — Appearance of the Interior — The Octagon — The Crypt — 
The Altar of David — Easter Eve — The Armenian Church — Scene in 
the Bazaars — Easter Sunday — Ceremonies at the Holy Sepulchre — 
Quarrel between Greeks and Armenians — Easter Time at Jerusalem 
— The French Caravan — Convent Memories— The Convent Terrace 
— House of an Eastern Laundress — English Chemist — Sister Bernard 
— Departure from the Nunnery — From Jerusalem to Jaffa — Scrip- 
tural Sites — Arabs and their Horses — Yellow Locusts. 

I SPENT the evening of Good Friday in Gethsemane, 
the roses of which were in full bloom, and where the 
very breeze seemed to be hushed, lest aught should break 
the stillness of that sacred spot. The old olive trees in 
the garden were scarred and worn, as if in remem- 
brance of that eve, nearly two thousand years ago, when 
a multitude came, with swords and staves, to bear away 
one whose pensive countenance seemed to indicate the 
weight of that burden which he was bearing even for 
his oppressors and persecutors. People in consider- 
able numbers were coming down the steep, by the paths 
leading from St. Eustachio Gate. The good Franciscan 
here, having on a large straw hat to shelter him from 
the sun, was tending his flowers, over which he sprinkled 
the water which two boys were constantly drawing up 
from a cistern or spring. The vines are trained over a 



MOSQUE OF OMAR. 



135 



square elevation, to make a shade at one side of the 
raised parterre. Two or three times a few pilgrims and 
travellers knocked and were admitted ; and though some 
of the latter were English, they behaved so as not to dis- 
turb the sweet and sacred quiet of the spot. One large 
fat German began measuring a venerable olive by the 
unbecoming process of setting his big body against it, 
and stretching out his short arms ! while two young men 
talked (under their breath, however) of the wine made 
from those vines, and a lady filled a small bag with earth 
at the foot of one of the trees. The friars' black and 
white pussy made a most demonstrative back and tail 
at my diminutive pet, which nestled close to my feet 
under the rose trees. Two hours I spent there waiting 
for the nuns whom I had left kneeling at the entrance 
of the grotto ; but they came not, having been summoned 
home, with all the other sisters, to lay a stone in the ma- 
sonry of their chapel. As the shadows were now lengthen- 
ing fast, I bade adieu to the good brother and slowly 
re-ascended the steep. 

April 15th, I visited the Mosque of Omar, at 7 a.m., 
with a party from the Consul's. There is an immense 
outer space round the temple, enclosed by houses of a 
superior order, and by turret walls. I lingered in cross- 
ing it, and finding only the Consul's janissary near me, I 
nervously expected every instant to receive the blow of 
a stone cast at me, or the thrust of a spear, from some 
zealous Moslem looker-on, if any such there were in the 
distance. Ascending a few marble steps, I entered by 



136 



INTERIOR OF THE MOSQUE. 



a colonnade of three or four arches on an immense plat- 
form, all paved with marble, in the centre of which rose 
the mosque, with its great dome. Immediately beneath 
the dome are arched windows of painted glass, and, 
covering the building to its base, terra-cotta of various 
colours, with gold and marble mosaic interspersed. 
Though the turbaned old Turk within looked gracious, 
and the janissary waved his hand in sign of assurance, 
in addition to which I saw the rest of the party grouped 
within and waiting, yet I hesitated on the threshold ; it 
was all so dark, and on the whole so much less attractive 
and rich than I had anticipated. Still I took courage and 
entered. Within the marble-paved space was an octagon 
screen, or pagoda, of gilded lattice work, within which 
was an immense lime-stone rock, said by tradition or by 
fancy to be that on which Abraham was about to slay 
his son Isaac. This mosque, which is called by the 
Moslems the Dome of the Eock, was built by Omar in 
the seventh century, and was used for Christian wor- 
ship when the Crusaders conquered the city, a.b. 1100. 
Having been retaken by Saladin in 1187, it has since 
remained in the hands of the followers of Mohammed. 

On entering the mosque, its grand proportions are 
visible to the very roof, only they are comparatively in 
distinct indeed, for the windows give littleTight, perhaps 
obscured on purpose that we Nazarenes should not 
benefit by them. As I was examining the pillars and 
interior of the arches, which, rich with sculpture and 
mosaics, span the octagon at intervals, the old Turk 



THE EXTERIOR. 



137 



summoned us all to descend some steps to a little marble 
niche with double columns, which he said was David's 
altar of sacrifice, another one, rather larger, being 
Solomon's. The walls here were all whitewashed. 
Every one was asking questions, which no one answered, 
unless it might be a man who was talking Arabic, which 
no one attempted to translate for our benefit, though 
we had one pale-faced young man who was supposed to 
be a linguist. One prosy old curmudgeon persisted in 
reading aloud the description of the Mosque of Omar, 
from Murray, though no one, I am sure, listened to him, 
for while he was at the " steps of the outer court " we 
were all in the very depths of the edifice. Being 
anxious to examine the octagon more carefully, I made 
my way up the steps, to go round its magnificent space 
once more ; but the old turbaned Turks, who were 
having the marble floor swept, were evidently anxious 
to get rid of us. 

Through one of the four doorways there is a beautiful 
view through arches and colonnades of the Mount of 
Olives. On the platform is an open octagon, with a 
dome just like the mosque itself, and several little pray- 
ing places are scattered about on the grand space, to 
which access is obtained by five open arched entrances. 
Steps lead up to them from the outer green sward, 
covered with cypresses, and other beautiful trees and 
shrubs. There are also pretty undulations, and some ruins. 
The windows and openings in the outer wall of the 
mosque look down into and over the valley of Jehoshaphat. 



138 



CHURCH OF. JUSTINIAN. 



The next object of interest which we were shown was 
the Church of Justinian (converted into a mosque). In 
the wirework of its windows, which command a fine pre- 
cipitous view, were tied little pieces of worsted, and 
ribbon, and rag, to become gacred, as we were told, and 
be kept as relics by devout Moslems. The church is of 
immense length, and beneath it is a crypt, to which we 
descended, and from whence a ruined part runs out to 
the walls of the city. Four stones which were shown 
were said to be relics of Solomon's Temple, but we must 
not believe all we are told by the Turks, especially 
when they can make something by playing on the faith 
of the Christian. A poor-looking place, scooped out 
under what was once a baldachino, with four pillars, 
was pointed out to us as the " cradle of the prophet 
Jesus Christ," for as such the Turks are willing to recog- 
nize him, though I cannot say how it jarred on my 
feelings to hear the Saviour thus spoken of. The ruin 
of the Church of Constantine, which is close by, still 
shows some noble pillars, among which we stood admir- 
ing the cypresses which grew at a little distance. The 
time is not long past since a Christian found within the 
precincts of this mosque would have had to leave behind 
his faith or his head. There is a story also of a 
European woman, who having once wandered by acci- 
dent into the grounds, was apprehended while admiring 
the trees, and being taken before the Cadi, was whipped 
by his order. Even now I could not feel quite at ease 
in such a vicinity. 



david's altar. 



139 



We were conducted out of this sacred Mohammedan 
building by a different route from that by which we had 
entered, emerging near the Porta St. Eustachio. We 
seemed to have been hurried through the extensive 
building and enclosures, and yet had been nearly three 
hours traversing this world-renowned temple, whose site 
bore that " house that was filled with a cloud, for the 
glory of the Lord had filled the House of God," that 
house which " Solomon built at Jerusalem on Mount 
Moriah, where the Lord appeared to David his father, 
in the place which David had prepared in the threshing- 
floor of Oman the Jebusite," — 2 Chronicles v., 14th verse; 
2 Samuel xxiv., 16th to 25th verse. 

I should have stated before that we were shown 
David's altar, which is in the crypt. Many of the Jews 
consider that the altar of the covenant, and other 
objects of sacred interest, are kept concealed somewhere 
in the mosque. Every Friday, and during the Eamazan 
every day, when all the lamps are lighted, the effect 
must be splendid ; but toleration has its limits, and 
Christians, who are admitted only at sweeping time, are 
not permitted to behold such spectacles, even at the 
expense of the golden fee which we must pay when per- 
mission is obtained through our Consul. 

In the evening I went out, attended by Julie, the 
girl from Gaza, veiled, and in her white envelope. 
We went out of the city by the Damascus Gate, and, 
coming round to that of Jaffa, passed the horses and 
tents of pilgrims pitched outside ; whilst the pilgrims 



140 



VARIED POPULACE. 



themselves were within the gate, buying oranges, figs. 
&c, from Turks, who sold them out of huge baskets. 
I passed the Armenian church, and, looking into it, 
beheld a blaze of light at the altar, and strings of lamps 
hanging in festoons from the root ; but the crowd was so 
dense, that though I succeeded in obtaining a good place 
in the gallery, where women were sitting on carpets, 
yet such was the heat that rose from below, both from 
lights and people, that I found it impossible to remain. 
In passing through the bazaars, to visit again the church 
of the Holy Sepulchre, I was both amused and in- 
terested by the singular and grotesque-looking person- 
ages I met at almost every step — Circassians, with fur 
caps and fur-edged robes ; Arabs, with red and yellow 
head-gear, or fringed kerchiefs hanging round their dark 
faces ; women, with coronets of coins, " backsheesh," 
surmounting their handsome foreheads ; men, with vests 
of striped crimson and yellow silk ; and others in 
braided jackets, for one of which we were asked six 
Napoleons in the bazaar. It was truly a strange con- 
gregation of beggars, buyers, and sellers. Down the 
narrow slope leading to the church of the Holy 
Sepulchre were mother-of-pearl crosses, with large and 
small rosaries, &c. Soldiers were picketed in the court, 
and there was a large crowd within the church, and 
round the shrines, which were beginning to be bril- 
liantly lit up. I was anxious to remain, but the young 
French priest had told us that the sacred fire scene in 
the afternoon was comme Venfer, and we therefore took 



CEREMONIES AT THE HOLY SEPULCHRE. 141 

our departure. The tall Hungarian lady, after the 
fatigues of the day, seemed to think wistfully of my 
convent rest as she turned into the Austrian Pilgerhaus. 

Easter Sunday came at last ! How often had I 
contemplated its red-letter date months ago in gloomy, 
freezing Germany, wondering whether I should indeed 
spend it in Jerusalem ! His hand has guided me safely 
over the wide, intervening space, to be a dweller within 
the precincts of the Holy City. On that happy morn- 
ing I was awakened by a beautiful strain of music in a 
minor key, which sounded like a lament, and seemed to 
come from the Moslem quarter. Before I was quite 
dressed, voices were singing in the convent chapel 
below ; and when I hastened down, I found it lit up 
as if for a fete, the nuns and children being assembled 
there to take part in the holy rites. 

After breakfast, I begged that the young Russian 
girl might be allowed to accompany me, as she desired 
to see the ceremonies at the Holy Sepulchre. Leave 
being granted, we arrived in time for the procession 
with candles. The patriarch was there, with jewelled 
mitre, his crozier and cross carried before him, with 
several of the clergy, all wearing silken and embroidered 
copes, and all the Franciscans. The immense candles 
before the shrine, and the brilliant lamps all lit, pre- 
sented a most magnificent sight, on which the people 
looked from the galleries under the dome. After an 
interval, the patriarch, preceded by cross and crozier, 
entered the chapel, which was now quite crowded with 



142 



EMEtJTE. 



priests in their white embroidered vestments, with 
white-veiled native women, of whom there was a small 
group, and with the nuns of St. Joseph, two of whom 
were in company with a devout Italian lady of rank, 
who was going through the Holy Land as a humble 
pilgrim. The organ-playing was very fine, expressive of 
exultant joy and of calm devotion. The patriarch gave 
his benediction with great solemnity as he left. 

There were very few European travellers in Jerusalem 
at this time, and perhaps scarcely one was present at 
these ceremonies, the crowd being composed mostly of 
pilgrims. 

I never enjoyed my mid-day meal more than I did 
to-day, for coming after the Lenten regimen, to which I 
had conformed, without any merit of voluntary absti- 
nence, it was, I must acknowledge, a great comfort. 
The whole pack of children on the terrace were in fete- 
day ecstasies ; and when the tall black brought up a 
white lamb, and led it up and down, they expressed 
unbounded delight. 

In the course of this day, I heard there had been a 
cuffing between the Greeks and Armenians. The two 
head priests, it appears, had met each other, and as 
they could not agree which should pass first, their fol- 
lowers had rushed at one another, and a general fray had 
been the consequence. Turkish soldiers were summoned 
from their quarters opposite our convent, and guards 
were put before Bishop Gobat's house. These little 
emeutes often take place during the great festivals. I 



DEPARTURE OF CARAVANS. 



143 



am told that some fine discourses were given on the 
evening of Good Friday, when, as the custom is, ser- 
mons are preached in many languages. The ceremony 
of the taking down from the cross also attracted a 
multitude of spectators; the patriarch's silver chair, 
which is carried about for him from one place to another, 
was the object of great attention. The vicaire, also, who 
more particularly presides on these occasions, via homme 
cT enfant, as some one said to me, speaking of him, was 
regarded by all with much respect. 

On Easter Monday the great French caravan de- 
parted, and also, I was informed, a Greek one, taking 
with them no fewer than three thousand persons from 
Jerusalem. All the morning I watched the numerous 
groups gathering, and conversed with the Dragoman of 
the caravan, who lives near, and is a great favourite in 
the convent. His two children are in the school, one 
of them a charming little girl, with most ingenuous and 
expressive countenance, very fair, though an Arab. It 
was in consequence of some information supplied by this 
man that the ruins which are now used as the convent 
were purchased. 

We set off from the Jaffa Gate with three camels 
laden with boxes, accompanied by some travellers quite 
covered up in white, a few young Englishmen, one well- 
dressed lady who wore no crinoline, some smart negroes 
in pink and red, and a few well-mounted Arabs. As a 
new Armenian Patriarch was expected about this time, 
some of the Consuls were to go out to meet him, and 



144 



EASTER TUESDAY. 



people were waiting at Bishop Gobat's to see him pass. 
The last of these dignitaries, it is said, was poisoned. 
The appearance of the church of the Holy Sepulchre 
having been lately improved by a thorough cleansing, 
and its interior rendered more cool, I went round the 
Crusader's chapel, to admire its rich and chaste beauty, 
and to look at some small pictures curiously formed in 
gold wire, and covered with glass. 

Easter Tuesday was delightfully quiet, the children 
having all gone away from this house to the country 
sejour of St. Giovanni. Six of the sisters also went 
with them, a change which must be agreeable to these 
poor young women, who are so diligent in work. There 
was not a sound in the city, I suppose from the absence 
of the pilgrims, who make it all. I sat long on the 
upper terrace, looking over and enjoying the scene, 
which will soon be a deeply-graven picture in memory 
only. The dome roofs rise one above another, for the 
whole city is on undulating ground. What a varied 
and interesting spectacle extends before me ! — the two 
cupolas of the Holy Sepulchre, the immense dome of 
San Giacomo, the flag-staffs of the four consuls, a 
ruinous-looking building whose arches are edged with 
grass and weeds, the Hill of Zion, the picturesque 
Damascus Gate, the enclosures of the Mosque of Omar, 
with its dome resting upon its richly-variegated octagon, 
the Arab women, covered with white, sitting in groups 
on the greensward, under shrubs and trees, around 
their temple, the five solitary palm-trees in the city, 



SCENES IN THE CITY. 



145 



that rise up at a distance from each other, amidst the 
stone roofs, and the numerous slender and lofty minarets, 
some of which are quite near us. Evening after even- 
ing have I listened to the Muezzin's call to prayer, 
while I looked on the divisions of the tower near me, 
tufted with bunches of weeds amidst its pierced stone- 
work and varied sculpture. Turning my eyes in 
another direction, I see a figure or two occasionally on 
the roofs, and some women sitting with a lamb under a 
tree with falling branches, which adorns their garden, 
enclosed within four walls, and secluded from the obser- 
vation of passers-by in the streets. 

The roofs seem quite places of resort. On those 
opposite to us we regularly see the Moslems ascend to 
go through their devotions, and, at other times of the 
day, to smoke, perhaps under the shade of the fir-trees 
whose branches extend over them. On the governor's 
roof I have seen soldiers erecting white tents. Anyone, 
however, can always enjoy the shade here under the 
arches which lead to the Moslem quarters of the city, 
which are often involved in great gloom. A man in a 
bright scarlet vest, waiting to be let in at a low door- 
way, tufted with weeds over its parapet, the round iron 
ring in his listless hand, and his yellow slipper on the 
lower step, formed quite a picture. But I might go on 
for pages describing the ever-changing scenes of this 
ancient city, variable as those of a kaleidoscope. 

Wednesday, ldth.— The ground outside the gates 
appeared pretty well cleared of pilgrims' tents ; but 

L 



146 SEARCH FOR AN ENGLISH CHEMIST. 



many Arabs and horses, in their gay colours, yellow, 
red, and blue, still seemed to be waiting among the 
young wheat-fields around. Passing through three little 
arches, I observed that they were occupied by the guard, 
and by those venders in a small way who cater for the 
needs of wayfarers. Among other places, I went to 
visit my pretty laundress, who showed me her best 
room, and the terrace in the open air where she and 
the young Arab girl, with her velvet-like eyes, and a 
coronet formed of a profusion of coins, do their work. 
A mound of clean clothes lay on a divan on one side, 
and a squalling brat, on pink cushions, on the other. 
Air and sunlight in this Eastern land embellish the 
humblest dwelling ; and whatever be the nature of 
their occupation, the state of leisure in which the people 
live a great part of their time is marvellous. No one 
ever seems to be in a hurry, and you see neither men 
nor women so busy that they have not time to talk, 
look about, and amuse themselves. A stranger cannot 
help wondering that anything is ever done in a place 
where time, which with us is money, is of so little 
moment. 

Eequiring some medicine, I had to pass through 
a series of crooked lanes, surpassing in intricacy any 
labyrinth of Crete, in order to find the English chemist, 
a regular druggist's shop, but up stone steps and inside 
a house. Indeed, had not Mr. Svaboda, the English 
librarian, accompanied me in my search, neither I nor 
the little handmaidens who accompanied me could ever 



SISTER BERNARD. 



147 



have found an apothecary's in such a spot ; nor, unless 
he had continued to pilot us, could we have found our 
way home. My two minute attendants, indeed, gave 
me a good deal of trouble — one contending we should 
go one way, and the other another, and keeping 
up a series of skirmishes, during which they pinched 
and pulled at each other, not all the nuts which I could 
dispense being able to divert them from their hostilities. 
What a task must the amiable, gentle sisterhood have 
all their lives in contending with these impish beings ! 
The last evening I could pass at the convent was ren- 
dered sad only by the regret which I experienced at 
parting with the amiable community, who also testified 
their sorrow at my departure. I walked till a late 
hour on the terrace with Sister M. Bernard, a nun who 
has been many years in Jerusalem, having been one of 
the first of this order who was sent out, at which time 
she was sujoerieure of the little band, who had to " endure 
hardness as good soldiers of Christ," in the beginning of 
their work. Many, she told me, were their difficulties 
at first. They had only a small and humble house, 
which, from the different state of things, was not 
always quite secure ; and sometimes it was not without 
great trouble that they could get anything to eat, or 
find places to buy necessaries. Sister Bernard was a 
sweet-looking and sweet-tempered woman, and I was 
told had not even uttered a murmur when another 
superieure was appointed over the powerful establishment 
which she had done so much to fix upon a secure basis. 

l 2 



148 



MY OWN CARAVAN. 



With this beloved sister, I looked for the last time on 
the stars that twinkled over Jerusalem, on the few lights 
that still shone in some of the dwellings on the Mount 
of Olivet, and on the whole scene which we had so 
often admired together, as we called up the all-absorb- 
ing reminiscences suggested by scenes the most sacred 
in the history of mankind. 

Rising at daybreak, at six o'clock, I bade adieu to 
the sisters, and left the peaceful abode where they 
passed their truly religious lives. I trust none amongst 
them are looking drearily to the future ; jet I remem- 
ber a few sad looks and faces. Generally speaking, how- 
ever, they seemed contented with their lot. Their resi- 
dence is cheerful, and being constantly engaged in a 
life of practical usefulness, instructing the children com- 
mitted to their charge, their existence cannot be alto- 
gether monotonous. I hope, however, none of them 
entertained the horror which I did of the eternal noise 
kept up by the brats. 

Luigi had provided for me a nice horse with a lady's 
saddle, while he himself rode attentively near me on a 
fine large white mule, taking great care of my precious 
little animal. He had also engaged a merry little 
mucchero, in blue and red, on a good donkey, to take 
charge of anything required. When we were ready to 
set off, the expedition formed quite a little caravan of 
my own ; and as the early morning hours were so 
precious, I did not wait for the American family, as a 
halt would enable them to join me, if they desired it, 



TRAVELLING PILGRIMS. 



149 



en route, and, for my part, I quite dreaded any social 
distractions. My way led me up the steep ascent of 
Calvary, past the Franciscan convent, and out of the 
gates of the Holy City. I ascended to the summit of 
a hill, whence T took one long last look over Jerusalem, 
which, with its walls and towers, minarets and domes, 
was yet in shadow. 

Though so early, many travelling pilgrims were 
already en route, on mules, horses, donkeys, and camels, 
ascending the slope. Several of the mules carried 
panniers on each side, in which were women and children, 
a woman in one being balanced by a batch of children 
in the other, their little black heads appearing over the 
rim like poultry in a basket. One little man and woman, 
just a match in size, fitted into two seats, with awnings 
over them, under which they sat very comfortably, 
talking with great volubility. Three or four small, 
slight, spare little Greek men hung about in panniers 
over a camel, while two tall Circassians rode on the top 
of a loaded one, jolted backwards and forwards on their 
elevated seat in a dislocating manner. A young Arab 
girl, and a youth, each carrying a pretty white puppy, 
a company of Armenian women, in black, with white 
veils, and occasionally a grave old Turk, with armed 
Arab servant, rode by with a business air, as if setting 
out on some expedition. The travelling family was not 
yet visible, and poor Luigi was quite distressed when I 
expressed my desire to wait for them. I believe the 
good youth thought it infra dig., in this his first essay 



150 



ANIMATED SCENE. 



as courier, that further escort should be needed ; and, in 
truth, finding how many people were on the road, the 
idea of loneliness or of danger seemed to be excluded, 
and I felt rather relieved to be free to look and think 
without being embarrassed by the presence of strangers. 
We met at Ramleh, however, and went on cheerfully 
next morning all together to Jaffa. These Americans 
were worthy people, with few ideas between them all, 
except those of getting over the ground as quickly as 
they could, and giving an occasional guess or two as to 
the scenes which they visited. 

We quickly descended the first steep, whose ledges of 
rock we had surmounted with such dreadful fatigue at 
the end of the long day's ride when we first came near 
Jerusalem. We descended afterwards two other ridges, 
passing all the well-remembered objects and sites of 
Scriptural note, the country now everywhere embellished 
with more foliage, and about ten o'clock came to the 
beginning of the pass where the five olive-trees stand. 
Here, as they came up, the various travellers began to 
dismount, placing themselves under rocks and trees to 
refresh themselves with food and rest. Girls brought 
pitchers of fresh milk, baskets of coloured eggs, hard 
boiled, and flat cakes of coarse bread, to sell to the 
pilgrims. The animated scene presented quite a con- 
trast to the solitude of the route two months before. 
This pass is very picturesque, the trees of myrtle and 
acacia being all in luxuriant blossom. I saw many plea- 
sant and shady spots, where it would have been de- 



HALT OF PILGRIMS. 



151 



lightful to make a halt, but groups were always near, 
and as we were nearly three hours getting down the 
pass, it was scarcely safe to linger. 

Strings of camels now began to overtake us, and in 
the narrow path we had often to get amongst the shrubs 
in order to avoid being rubbed by the huge burdens 
which they bore. The Arabs had begun to sing their 
most unmusical melodies, and some of the Greek pil- 
grims were croaking their hymns. At the end of the 
long, winding, and precipitous valley, is a low stone hut, 
around which the pilgrims had halted in great force. I 
dismounted at some little distance, where I might be 
secure from interruption, and under a large tree, some 
way up the slope, opened the basket the good nuns had 
stored for me ; while Luigi, the impish little macchero, 
and the three animals rested below. My poor pretty 
horse was found to have a leech sticking to his gums, 
doubtless through the carelessness of his owner, for 
nothing can compel these men to be more careful of the 
useful beasts which they possess. The patience and 
docility of these poor animals during their daily and 
nightly tramps of thirty-five miles each way, over rough 
and rocky paths, are rewarded with little attention, and 

less food. I gave mine little B 's store of corn, 

which was to last him to Beyrout, and an hour's good 
rest. I started for Eamleh about two o'clock, overtak- 
ing the good Dominican padre, who courteously saluted 
me, and talked of my German friends. Swarms of 
yellow locusts began to appear, and continued all the 
way to Jaffa. 



152 



CHAPTER IX. 

Ramleh — The Tower — Lydda — Jaffa — The Franciscan Convent — Pil- 
grims — Dinner at the Convent — Murder of Several Monks by Arabs 
— Reminiscences of Jerusalem — An Orange Garden — The Reservoir 
— The Bazaar — Files of Camels — The Hotel par excellence — 
English and French Corvettes in the Bay — Departure from Jaffa — 
Fellow-Passengers — Caifa — Mount Carmel — A Hermitage — Graves 
of the Monks — Two English Travellers — Ebal and Gerizim — Arab 
Tradition — The Grotto of Elijah — The Nunnery at Caifa. 

T17E reached Raraleh about six. We had seen its high 
' ' tower at the distance of a good many miles. After 
half an hour's repose, we went to the ruined cloister, in 
the centre of which the tower stands, and mounted to 
the top, from which we had a beautiful and interesting 
view, all glowing in sunset hues, over the spacious 
cloisters beneath, enclosing the remains of the abbey 
tower and some octagon building. The town of Eamleh 
itself, with its large convent, mosque, and other edi- 
fices, and the mass of flat stone roofs common to all 
Eastern towns, forms a very interesting spectacle ; while 
the pleasant pathways leading from it, through green 
fields, and an olive grove of some extent sheltering the 
town, add variety to the scene. A wide extent of 
country spreads out to the blue Judean hills, which we 
had been crossing all the morning. The Knights 
Templars erected this stronghold, and established them- 



RAMLEH. 



153 



selves in it to defend and shelter pilgrims, whose ap- 
proach, as well as that of any hostile infidel party, they 
could discern from their lofty tower. After a cheerful 
supper, I retired to rest in a room which I shared with 
the fair transatlantic sisters. 

Ramleh was the town the inhabitants deserted when 
the Crusaders were advancing towards it from Cesarea. 
The latter sent two leaders with five hundred men to 
reconnoitre. These found the gates open ; but suspect- 
ing an ambuscade, they hesitated to enter. All, how- 
ever, was still, and as they made their way to the 
piazza, not a human being was to be seen, men, women, 
and children having fled during the night, collecting 
what they could of their valuables and provisions, but 
leaving corn, oil, and all manner of stores. A joyful 
summons was sent to the army, and the entire host 
came gladly on, took possession of the city, and found 
welcome rest for four days. From thence they marched to 
besiege Jerusalem, whither they were hurried by a mes- 
sage sent by some Christians who had escaped from it 
during the dreadful consternation the news of their ap- 
proach had spread in the city, advising them that that was 
the best time to show themselves before its walls. They 
left a body of troops to secure Eamleh, an important 
stronghold, on which, in case of necessity, they might 
fall back. The tower is square, and of Gothic archi- 
tecture, with double arches chiselled in each division 
all the way up, and loop-holes cut in different forms, 
which give light in ascending the one hundred and twenty 



154 



ORANGE GARDENS. 



steps, affording, besides, charming views in anticipation of 
that commanded from the summit. On arriving at the 
top of the tower, we see that its head has been ap- 
parently struck by lightning. Looking to the north 
is the site of Lydda, where Peter said to the sick of the 
palsy, " Jesus Christ make thee whole and where he 
came down to the " saints which dwelt at Lydda." 
Beyond it is the vast plain of Saron, with the mountains 
of Judea in the east, which, towards the north, join 
with those of Samaria. Southward are the immense 
plains of the Philistines, reaching to the horizon, where 
possibly were those fields ripe for harvest burned by the 
stratagem of Samson. 

We set off, a large, cheerful party, at six o'clock, 
through a rich, fertile, flat country, adorned, however, 
with Oriental beauties. In one part a line of more 
than a hundred camels were crossing directly over the 
country southwards, making a curious appearance as 
they slowly wended on in a line as regular as a train of 
railway carriages ; we, in the meantime, having to wait 
till they had all gone by, with their stately and solemn 
pace. As we neared Jaffa, gardens of oranges, in fruit 
and blossom, began to appear in full luxuriance on each 
hand, most refreshing to the sight after the barren- 
ness around Jerusalem — the verdure, the shining leaves, 
and the rich-coloured fruit, together with the exquisite 
odour. The sea was of so deep a blue as almost to be 
purple, and as we passed was enlivened with dashing, 
white-crested waves. We were now near the end of our 



JAFFA. 



155 



journey, and the idea that the hot ride of thirty-five 
miles was over, and rest at hand, combined to put the 
whole company into spirits. We entered Jaffa once 
more, with oranges in profusion on every side, trains of 
donkeys carrying sacks of them towards the interior, 
besides piles of sheep's cheese, and some unmentionable 
or indescribable stuff mixed up in deep pans, into which 
the buyers dipped for a handful. Inside the gate were 
rows of Turks, squatting on a low shelf covered with 
matting. We all went along the narrow street in single 
file, about a dozen persons, with the mules and Arabs 
following through the crooked stony turnings and 
bazaars, till there was a general halt at the top of the 
convent steps, and in due time we were assembled in 
the pleasant room surrounded by divans on the terrace, 

where Brother handed lemonade in green glasses ; 

after which we had to go through the process of paying 
the muccheroes, &c, who, of course, asked for more 
backsheesh than was given. Our party was here some- 
what lessened, the go-a-heads setting off at once for 
Constantinople by the steamer, which was puffing all 
ready on the pleasant waves below. 

In the first interval of quiet after all this excitement, 
I found myself in a delightfully tranquil little chamber 
above the terrace looking out on the beautiful sea, 
which was dashing in over a line of rocks. An English 
ship of war just arrived was beginning to pop her salute 
of twenty-one guns. 

The convent of the Franciscans, at Jaffa, is a large 



156 



PILGRTMS FROM AFAR. 



building towering over the sea. There is a fine view 
from its windows and terraces of the ever-changing 
element, in all its moods of storm and calm. The sand 
receives the surf to the right and left of the town, 
while before it are some low rocks, with spray dashing 
over them, forming a sort of natural breakwater. Boats 
enter by a space between these rocks, in which, when 
the sea is rough, the waves are very formidable. Small 
vessels can enter and lie in the shallow water, loading 
and unloading ; some at present here are nearly full of 
the rich-coloured oranges, which are often exposed to 
seaand sky. The brethren say that sometimes in winter 
the billows come in with such force as to shake the very 
walls. 

In this convent are ten brethren and a superior. One 
of the brethren devotes himself to receiving and waiting 
on the pilgrims, who arrive at all times of the year, 
besides the great festivals of Easter and Christmas. 
The number, poverty, and zeal of these poor people 
should form matter of thought and of reproof to the care- 
less tourist, if any such there be. They come toil- 
worn, hungry, and often sick, from immense distances, 
sometimes from the interior of Russia, not to pass 
pleasantly from one place to another, but to make their 
way over sea and land, in summer's heat and winter's 
cold, with all the difficulties of poverty, to the sacred 
shrines of Palestine. A woman, holding her palm- 
branch, and surrounded by all her poor bundles, amongst 
which is a wretched little infant, is to-day sitting in 



BABEL OF TONGUES AT MEALS. 



157 



the stone corridor, the bed-rooms vacated by the latest 
pilgrims being locked, while mats and beds are very 
properly put out so many hours to air. There is also 
among them a Sister Caterina, or Maddalena, who, with 
long large rosary, a cord round the waist, and a white 
hood, forms a striking figure. They arrive in batches of 
twelve or sixteen, more or less, and are housed and fed 
for three days, a dinner being given to some of them 
every day outside the room where we go to eat, near 
the chapel. I feel as if they ought to have the best, 
and we the leavings. The Babel of tongues at meals is 
distracting. There is a young Austrian Count, who 
speaks German with the Polonaise, Italian to me, and 
blunders a little in French with the rest. M. l'Abbe 
speaks English to me, one of the Italians speaks Spanish 
with the brother, who gives orders to the domestic in 
Arabic. The chamber, which has a Gothic roof, is damp 
and dismal. In it are a large fresco of the Virgin Mary, 
standing on the globe, with crescent and serpent under 
foot, and another of St. Francis ascending to heaven. 
Some attempts have been made to give this room an air 
of comfort by hangings and muslin curtains, but, not- 
withstanding, it is a sombre, comfortless place, and one 
is glad to escape from it to the beautiful air and sea 
view above. 

The chapel is opposite. I went in one evening before 
supper, and saw the monks kneeling, like figures in a 
picture, by the dim light of a few sunken lamps, all in 
perfect silence. Some of the brethren of this order once 



158 



THE FRANCISCAN CONVENT. 



established themselves in the dreaded Pass of Abu-gosch, 
to give aid and shelter to pilgrims and travellers, but 
were all murdered one night by the Arabs, and their 
abode plundered and destroyed, even the ruins of it 
being carried away in time, to construct huts for these 
robbers themselves in some other place. 

Fourteen of the brothers of the Franciscan convent at 
Jerusalem are always in the church of the Holy Sepulchre, 
of which the order is guardian. While some seem to 
have borne the life they lead very well, one or two look, 
indeed, as if they never had breathed the fresh air of 
heaven, their skins being as yellow as parchment, their 
cheeks sunken, and their eyes worn out with the blink- 
ing of tapers carried in daily procession round those 
sombre precincts, in which the damp cold air from vault 
to vault is the only atmosphere known to them. The 
grave and harmonious melody of their united chaunt, 
every evening, on visiting the solemn shrines, remains 
in my memory, whenever I recall the appearance of the 
church, venerable as that is from age, and its sacred 
associations. 

The 1800 years of the Christian era seem, I know 
not how, all so recent when in Jerusalem. One desires 
to know how the " streets of Jerusalem " looked in 
David's time. The " peace of Jerusalem " I could 
always imagine very well, in the beautifully still even- 
ings and afternoons, looking from the lofty convent 
terrace, and also the " tribes going up," when I stood 
watching the dwellers from afar ascending in large 



ORANGE GARDENS. 



159 



companies, as they often did before Easter, up the steep 
leading to St. Stephen's Gate, reminding me of those 
who once said "our feet shall stand in thy gates/' 
for the natives to this day make the gates (and they 
are spacious enough) loitering-places. The " hills that 
stand about Jerusalem," its deep valleys, and all natural 
objects, can always be looked at with deep and untiring 
interest, though not so the many doubtful sites of those 
all-important events of which the Holy City has been 
the scene, and of which one may always be profitably 
reminded. 

Sunday 23rd, after visiting the chapel, I spent the 
whole day in blessed rest, looking out on the lovely sea, 
having so many sacred recollections to treasure up, and 
the reminiscences of so many holy scenes to arrange in 
memory. 

On the afternoon of next day I visited an orange 
garden belonging to the convent, about half a mile off. 
At the end of a shady lane, formed by hedges of the 
prickly pear, two arched wooden doors, with a Latin 
cross upon them, marked the brethren's property. One 
of these gardens was in shade, and its trees were laden 
with rich fruit ; while in the other, which was exposed 
to the full blaze of the sun, the trees were in blossom 
only. My donkey, the Arab guide, and myself, were 
admitted into the latter, a good friar, with a large som- 
brero, calling a labourer's wife to take me up the steps 
of a small building in the centre of the garden, where 
I might prendere la fresca beside the reservoir. 



160 BEAUTIFUL VIEW. 

Speaking of the reservoir, I saw that there* were little 
channels from it by which the whole ground might be 
irrigated as occasion required. There was a palm-tree, 
too, up there, but I wanted to be under the foliage of 
the orange-trees. An Arab lad soon found one shaped 
like a bell, and brought a cushion, my shawls, book, and 
portfolio, and my little pet ; after arranging which, I 
made him take himself off, for the great gaunt youth, 
coming into my sanctum, seemed determined to keep 
me company. I sat there in high enjoyment, inhaling 
the delicious fragrance, listening to the hum of insects 
and the murmur of the sea, dreaming, dozing, and 
scribbling, till the shadows seemed to be lengthening, and 
I thought it time to return. I had marked a pretty 
rising ground, with two or three palm-trees in the 
centre of it, as I came, for which I now made, and 
passed through an opening in the prickly pear hedge to 
look out on one of those views of the shining sea in which 
I so delighted. The town lay before me, with Consuls' flags 
displayed here and there, ships of war at anchor outside, 
and the large sun going down into the waves so ardently 
expecting him, and looking as if they must hiss as his 
bright disc touched their glowing surface. A company 
of donkeys came across the grass, loaded with panniers 
full of oranges, a fruit which, at Jaffa, has a vividness 
in its colour beyond any I ever saw, and, when fresh 
from the tree, is no less delightful to the taste than to 
the sight and smell. 

25th, St. Mark's day, I paid a visit to the nuns next 



BAZAARS. 



161 



door, the Sisters of St. Joseph, who cheerfully under- 
took some kindly offices I required, the superieure being 
so obliging as to send one of the nuns with me to make 
some purchases in the bazaar, and to negotiate with a 
quiet Arab for some of his gay-coloured kerchiefs. 
These bazaars consist only of open booths, in one of 
which a Turk was taking his siesta on the shelf of his 
stall, leaning comfortably back on his goods and chattels. 
I could not get one of the Bedouin shawls with which 
they cover their heads — brown, with very broad yellow 
silk stripes. Two young Arab boys, a woman or two, 
veiled, and several children, stood by the whole time, 
reaching over the shoulders or under the arms of the 
nun and myself, to touch and examine every article we 
thought of purchasing, and often, in their way, helping 
the decision. Occasionally camels passed, rather a 
tremendous sight a file of these huge beasts in such 
narrow lanes ; but the undisturbed gravity of their pace 
is re-assuring, for there is no starting, no swaying to 
and fro, but a prudent pace, which allows you ample 
time to stop or get out of the way. If you do not, as 
certainly as by a steam-engine, though more slowly, you 
must be borne down and crushed by the resistless weight 
of the progressing animal. 

There is one hotel at Jaffa for travellers who would 
rather not claim the hospitalities of the convent. It is 
a small house at the top of the town, reached by in- 
numerable crooked and steep lanes, clean, with a good- 
sized salon, having a large grand piano in it, looking 

M 



162 



HOTEL AT JAFFA. 



strangely out of place in the Holy Land. A glass 
cupboard for all the crockery of the establishment, and 
some American rocking-chairs, quite fill it up, and leave 
but little room for guests to sit. The walls are garnished 
with pictures of terrible naval engagements, the ships 
painted black, and the sea field-green, and with some bat- 
tle pieces, which tell their tragic story by means of little 
red men in rows, and many arms and legs lying about 
on a bluish ground. The windows of this comprehen- 
sive apartment look against a wall, over which, perhaps, 
by mounting one of the rocking-chairs, a vacillating 
glance of the sea might be had. Upstairs are a few 
bed-rooms, the front walls of which do not rise more 
than half-way to the roof. For all these advantages 
combined in the establishment, the self-assured young 
gentleman, mine host's son, asked the moderate sum of 
twelve shillings per diem, affirming that many persons 
insisted on giving thirteen. There did not seem at 
present, however, to be a single visitor in the establish- 
ment to make these voluntary daily offerings of shillings 
at the shrine of the house of B- — — *, which numbered 
eighteen persons in family, as the promising son and 
heir informed me. 

The 28th was my last day at Jaffa. In the bay were 
still an English and French corvette, their smart crews, 
in six, twelve, and twenty-four oar boats, coming 
gallantly to shore, breasting the great waves that 
were rolling in tremendously. I had looked at the 
vessels so often that I felt as if they were old acquaint- 



HOSPITALITY OF RELIGIOUS HOUSES. 



163 



ances ; and with other familiar objects on the wide ex- 
panse of ocean, seen from the lofty convent's windows, 
I mentally bade them adieu when rowing out to the 
steamer. 

While we were waiting in the boat, a spectre of a 
young man, wrapped in a white burnous, and having 
hollow eyes and cheeks, started into life all of a sudden, 
and began, to the astonishment and alarm of the other 
passengers, to strike the boatmen with his stick, appa- 
rently because they had been long in leaving the land- 
ing-place. To produce a diversion of the poor invalid's 
rage, I told him his weapon had grazed my face ; and, 
in fact, it had touched my veil. On hearing this, the 
poor fellow almost shed tears of contrition, and, by way 
of atonement for his violence, with his weak, trembling 
hands tried to help in handing my parcels on board. He 
said he had been twenty days ill of fever, and that wait- 
ing in the sun almost maddened him. 

The deck was crowded with Greek pilgrims, swarm- 
ing like flies from stem to stern. Before starting, we 
had a numerous party at the convent for dinner — some 
young French noblemen going on by the evening 
steamer to Alexandria, Germans to Beyrout, and a com- 
pany setting off for Jerusalem— all in the dismal re- 
fectory, the whole party waited on with unwearied pati- 
ence by a kind, meagre, self-subdued monk. The hospi- 
talities of these religious houses, which can never be 
repaid by the travellers who, while journeying through 
a wild country, and amongst Arabs, are under the 

M 2 



164 



CAIFA. 



greatest obligation to thein, deserve the highest enco- 
mium. I have never left one of them in the course of 
my travels without feeling grateful that there was so 
much of the spirit of Christian friendliness and con- 
fidence left in the world ; and that in the Holy Land, 
especially, those who would go through it in a devout 
spirit, can, by resigning their more worldly comforts 
and usages for a time, better keep up a frame of mind 
in harmony with the objects and interests of the route. 
The position of Jaffa is admirably seen from the sea, 
the town being built on a hill, on each side of which 
stretch away wide wastes of sand ; while in the dis- 
tance, far behind, are faintly seen the mountains of Judea. 
We steamed off about six o'clock, noisy boatmen putting 
pilgrims on board to the last. These Arabs certainly 
outdo the natives of every other country for yelling 
the whole range of the gamut. A Neapolitan batch 
of boatmen are grave and silent in comparison with them. 

We had a calm passage, and at daylight anchored 
before Caifa, where a boat came alongside, and in the 
fresh, pleasant air of early morning rowed us to shore. 
We had a most kind reception from the sweet nuns, 
who had also letters for us from the convent at 
Jerusalem. How sweet was the quiet of their man- 
sion after the noise of the boatmen and people ! A 
room, opening on a terrace at one side of a large garden, 
with spreading branches of trees all down to the sea, 
was allotted to us. Pretty rabbits, fowls, and pigeons 
were here in abundance, and three happy-looking, well- 



MOUNT C ARM EL. 



165 



used donkeys, as tame as dogs, came poking their soft 
white and brown noses to be patted and fed by us. 
One of them carried me up to Mount Carmel, the way 
leading through an olive grove, just where the ascent 
commences, and by a rocky path, with a delightful view 
looking down on the bay. The sun, which had risen 
superbly, was by this time some way up in the heavens, 
but a fine fresh air tempered the heat, and rendered our 
excursion more agreeable. After an ascent of half an 
hour, we arrived at the convent, a large building, new 
and uninteresting of itself, but conspicuous by a dome 
and lantern surmounting it, which form the roof of the 
chapel. At a little distance, standing out on the 
promontory, is the lighthouse ; and on the other side a 
hermitage, where some of the brethren spend stated 
hours of each day in solitude and prayer. Behind 
the convent, higher up the mount, was a large flock of 
black goats and handsome young cattle, but no cries of 
discordant multitudes broke the sweet silence. Apart 
was the consecrated spot where were the graves of the 
brethren, each marked by a rough wooden cross, and 
one place filled and covered up, where the bodies lie 
interred all together ; while, close by, was a little 
chapel. The fine, wild hill, with its odoriferous herbs 
and fragrant shrubs, framed all these objects ; an in- 
teresting sight, indeed, for was not this the " top of 
Carmel," where Elijah was commanded to gather all 
Israel, and where Gehazi saw the little cloud rise out of 
yon beauteous sea ? 



166 



TRAVELLERS IIS THE HOLY LAND. 



I rose at daybreak next morning, and was out in time 
to see the sun rise majestically over the mountain sum- 
mits across the bay, a view which had something of a 
wintry aspect, for Mount Hermon, partly covered with 
snow, was distinctly visible. Below, the curving bay, 
sweeping gracefully round to St. Jean d'Acre, was 
charming. " Tabor and Hermon shall rejoice in 
Thy name." The convent dogs broke my contempla- 
tions by a very menacing chorus, standing in a line like 
soldiers. 

Two young Englishmen, of the Mosque of Omar party, 
arrived soon after the early dinner. They had come 
from Jerusalem, over Nablous, through Samaria; and had 
been to Nazareth and Tiberias. They were now going 
along the ridge of Carmel and across the country to 
Damascus. These young men were going through the 
Holy Land in a grave and earnest spirit, bringing their 
education as gentlemen, and their training and reading as 
Christians, to bear upon the illustration and understand- 
ing of the scenes which they visited. 

Sunday 30th, in the afternoon, I sat long on the 
slope of Mount Carmel, under the shade of one of the 
fragrant shrubs, which are occasionally as large as 
brambles. Oh ! the beauty of that landscape — the sun 
about half down the western sky, and the sea all glow- 
ing beneath his ardent blaze ; the sandy beach (which 
forms also the high way to Jaffa), far below, receiving 
the gently rippling waves. How calm and sweet was the 
scene ! I went down the sloping path near the entrance 



EBAL AND GERIZIM. 



167 



gate of the convent, which passes above a large cave, 
called by the monks the Cave of St. Simonarius, an 
English brother of their order, who lived therein six 
years. Two pillars have been erected before the cave. A 
large ship of war came to anchor to-day, just as the sun 
was setting, opposite the convent. Some of the brethren 
were on the roof watching the movements of the crew 
as the anchor was dropped. This order of monks seems 
severe in their rules, rarely communicating with their 
guests ; although I enjoyed the unusual honour of some 
conversation with them, my introduction to the nunnery 
at Caifa being the means of procuring me a few some- 
what austere and measured words of courtesy, I believe 
from the superior. The windows of the rooms are large, 
but barred and grated, yet not so closely as to interfere 
much with the pleasure of looking out and receiving the 
delightful breeze. I stood in the deep embrasure of 
one of them while my young countrymen were giving 
some details of their journey, telling me where they had 
pitched their tent between Ebal and Gerizim, and the 
appearance of these two mountains, upon which the 
tribes were stationed while the blessings and curses were 
pronounced, the assembled Israelites responding after 
each solemn enunciation with a resounding Amen. 
These two mountains rise on opposite sides of a deep 
narrow valley, both being nearly of the same height, 
about eight hundred feet, rocky and precipitous, their 
summits forming a table-land. Gerizim is ascended by a 
broad flight of stone steps, bearing the marks of great 



168 



CONVENT OF CARMELITE MONKS. 



antiquity, excavated in the rock. In the atmosphere of 
the East a voice on a calm day can be heard across 
the valley. 

The travellers set off early next morning, going along 
the ridge of C arm el, to visit what is considered by some 
the "place of sacrifice/' on the highest point, whence, 
as the mountain gradually descends to the extensive 
plain of Jezreel, the miracle of the fire descending from 
heaven might be beheld by multitudes in all the country 
round. The Arabs have a tradition that a high green 
mound, called Ghebel Mukels (the Mount of Slaughter), 
close to the brook Kishon, covers the bones of the 
priests of Baal. I should be inclined to think that the 
order of the Carmelite Monks would have placed their 
convent on the spot consecrated by the miracle ; and, in 
wandering near the monastery, I saw many places that 
might have been dug out for the altar and trenches. 
In the chapel is a crypt, under the altar, which is shown 
as Elijah's grotto, and the brotherhood follow the ex- 
ample of Elijah's severity in many of their rules. 

May 1st. — Before leaving the convent, I went down 
to see the Pharmacie, over which one of the monks pre- 
sides, dispensing medicines which they prepare from 
herbs that grow on the mountain, particularly an anti- 
pestilential tonic of great virtue. The dispensary of the 
brotherhood is known as the " Pharmacie des Eeligieux 
Carmes Dechausses du Mont Carmel de Palestine." In 
the passage of the convent hangs an odd old print, en- 
titled "La Yita dell' Uomo," from the cradle to the death- 



A NUNNERY. 



169 



bed — a picture with the gay doings represented in which 
poor friars have little to do ; in youth the bridal, and in 
mid-life the honours of successful ambition. I trust, 
though, that in the last scene of all, the remembrance 
of their prayers, alms, and life of self-denial rises sooth- 
ingly to their minds when finishing their course ; and 
that the hope of that crown of glory which is promised 
to the faithful becomes brighter and brighter as the 
current of life ebbs away ! 

Going down to the bay, I saw some lovely wild 
flowers and large olive-trees, beneath one of which was 
a troop of black goats, of all ages. Four dogs, with no 
ostensible object, were wandering about in the neigh- 
bourhood, whose presence, on such a warm day, was 
anything but agreeable. Near mid-day I made my way 
to the beautiful nunnery in the vicinity, where I was 
shown into a cool room, and offered orange-flower water; 
after which I went on business to the Consul's, an agree- 
able, civil man, with fine even teeth, which always make 
a pleasant item in conversation — at least, so far as the 
sight is concerned. This gentleman, who is properly 
the Austrian Consul, performs also, at present, the 
duties of the English one, who is absent. After having 
transacted my business, I returned to the nunnery, 
where, in a quiet, cool room, I had my dinner, and en- 
joyed after it a long rest under the trees at the foot of 
the garden. The repose of these religious houses for 
women is very delightful in this country, where sun 
and light can be enjoyed or excluded at pleasure. The 



170 



WALK ON THE BEACH. 



waves sounded musically, as they dashed softly against 
the foot of the wall outside. As I was to sleep here, a 
nun came down the garden path to take me to my bed- 
room, the window of which looks on a line of beautiful 
large trees, and on the opposite coast over the sea, with 
a snow-covered mountain rising above it. 

At a later hour the good sisters let me out on the 
beach by the garden door. I walked freely about for 
some time, and at one spot observed a Mohammedan at 
his prayers close to the sea. Along the hard sands, and 
in the fresh and pleasant air, my little pet scampered 
with delight, barking vigorously at two youths walking 
hand in hand, like story-book friends in an Eastern tale. 
I was called in to supper at their usual hour, and slept 
soundly to the music of the waves, waking again in the 
morning to the same delightful murmur. On going 
down to the chapel I found it full of Arab women 
assisting at mass. 



171 



CHAPTER X. 

St. Jean d'Acre — Conversation by Signs — En route to Nazareth — Cara- 
van of Greek Pilgrims — Bedouins — Nazareth — The House of Mary 
— The Greek Church — A Stormy Night — Chapel of the Annuncia- 
tion — Joseph's Workshop — Mensa Christi — Chaunting an Oremus 
— The Mount of Trembling — The Mountains of Gilboa — Female 
Fashions of the East and West — Pilgrims from Siberia — Mount 
Tabor — Extensive View — Churches on Mount Tabor — Descent of 
the Mount — Suspicious-looking Bedouins — Tiberias — An Arab 
Christian — A Spanish Padre — Country of the Gadarenes — Mount 
Hermon. 

F LEFT for St. Jean d'Acre about ten o'clock, acconi- 
A panied in the boat, across the calm, clear sea, by a 
Greek and two women, one in red trousers. During 
the whole passage, of about two hours, we had a view of 
all the long line of Carmel. On approaching the cele- 
brated stronghold, we looked with interest on its formid- 
able fortifications, from which cannon looked menacingly 
out, and in which the breaches made by our English bom- 
bardments are still visible in the venerable walls. As 
usual, we went to the convent here, and after dinner I 
went out along the terrace on which it seemed to stand. 
Ascending a few steps, I came to an Arab dwelling, in 
which I found a woman with two handsome daughters. 
One of them (the handsomest) had her head and face 
quite set in gold coins ; the second girl, also, had silver 



172 



CARAVAN OF GREEK PILGRIMS. 



coins round her head, and wore in addition a pretty 
gold necklace, all in points. They were no less curious 
to see me than I was to see them, and they all 
examined my dress and smilingly threw up my veil. 
When the old father came out, and hospitably asked me 
into the house, on the roof of which, it appeared, we 
were standing, I intimated by signs, in which all our 
communications were carried on, that I preferred the 
open air. 

The convent and other dwellings surround a large 
court, in which mules and Arabs were standing, large 
companies of them setting off twice a week to Nazareth. 
This place seems to have been originally part of some 
much larger building, ruined by the destructive opera- 
tions of war. A flight of steps, which, doubtless, once 
led up to some part of the house, have now a curious 
effect, as if made to go up into the air. In the town, 
the nuns of Notre Dame de Nazareth have a house and 
school for Arab children. The pacha's permission is 
required to go round the fortifications, which, not being 
anxious to visit them, I did not care to procure. 

Mounted on a brisk mule, I went along the sands at 
an early hour next morning to a plain, on which a line 
of camels were bringing in stores to the city. We 
met on our rode a caravan of Greek pilgrims, proceed- 
ing also over the plain to Nazareth. In their midst 
was a Russian family, and several of them were on 
foot. A cripple, whose knees were bent under him, 
was carried on a donkey, his motive in visiting the 



HxVLT AT A WELL. 



173 



shrine being the hope of a miraculous cure. This un- 
fortunate being, I heard, had come all the way from 
some distant country to the Holy Land, strong in this 
faith — in testimony of which the poor fellow was dressed 
in white, with a cross worked upon his robe. 

All the men carried stout clubs ; the women trudged 
along beside them, bearing their kettles and other 
utensils, &c. The women of a better class were sitting 
on pillows set on their donkeys ; while the men chaunted 
occasionally. 

Leaving the plain at last, we ascended rising ground, 
and about midday came to a halt beside a large well, 
where were a few trees, and some Bedouins sitting round 
it. One with a showy dress came and helped me off my 
mule, an act of politeness which he performed more 
adroitly than my guide, though, 1 must confess, I 
trembled all the time for my watch. After a rest of 
half an hour, when I prepared to set off again, the 
Bedouins, half in jest, half in earnest, asked for " back- 
sheesh," as it was their camping-ground. 

Continuing our journey, we passed a rude village, 
and, further on, came to another halt, in woody ground 
— this was about two o'clock. The country now looked 
very fertile, oak trees, pretty shrubs, oleanders, and 
acacias, all with lovely red flowers, growing in abund- 
ance. At length was heard the cry of " Nazareth," as 
the caravan came to the summit of a gentle eminence, 
though it was only the mountains round it that we 
saw yet, for Nazareth lies imbedded in hills. We were 



174 



DEXTEROUS ARAB. 



likely to be delayed, too, by some of the devout pilgrims, 
who wished to visit certain places which they considered 
sacred. The Arab in charge of the caravan, however, 
called them back. This individual had rather a remark- 
able appearance, and is worth describing. He was a 
lithe young man, with long black hair hanging down 
behind, head-gear fastened with a double roll of camel's 
hair, and a dress of blue. He leaped like an antelope 
when in a hurry ; and once, when I saw him with his 
long-knobbed pole or javelin signalling merrily to his 
" staff," he gave a sudden jump, and swinging the 
pole or weapon swiftly round, brought the heavy knob 
down within an inch of the poll of a tall old man riding 
before, without the slightest noise. The action was so 
cat-like and dexterous, and showed him to be in such 
good practice, that, though done in joke, it made me 
shudder. Not many days after we had cause to remem- 
ber the circumstance. 

We soon began to mount the hill. I pressed on be- 
fore the others, wishing to be alone, and to be the first 
to look upon the town from which our Lord was named. 
As the ascent gradually steepened, I looked back, and 
beheld on every side a fine view, which, as I mounted 
higher, seemed to become more extensive. Beneath 
the brow of the mountain was a deep valley, at the 
head of which was the Greek church, in form of a cross ; 
and with a garden behind, in which, according to 
the Greek belief, stood the house of Mary. In the 
church is the fountain where she is said to have gone 



NAZARETH. 



175 



to draw water, and at which the angel announced to her 
her great destiny. 

This church has been erected within a few years, and 
is highly ornamental. All the pilgrims, as they ap- 
proached it, dismounted, crossed themselves three times, 
and said certain prayers. A few steps further on the 
whole city of Nazareth becomes visible — a small place, 
with white stone flat-roofed houses, between which, as 
in all other Eastern cities, ran narrow thoroughfares. 
The slender and graceful minaret of one mosque, with a 
few firs round it, these well-known characteristics of a 
Moslem worshipping-place, rises from among the humble 
dwellings around it. The Latin church of the Annuncia- 
tion, which is quite at the other end of the valley from 
the Greek one, makes no appearance. The convent of 
the Franciscans adjoins it, with a few palms rising out 
of their garden. The house in which they give hospi- 
tality to strangers and travellers is across the road, so 
that all who wish to attend mass must go over to the 
church. The house consists of two stories, in the 
second of which are the sleeping rooms, round a court. 
From a small balcony, which belongs to a pretty little 
salon, we look out on the path across a plain by which 
caravans arrive from Samaria, and on another winding 
up the steep in the direction of St. Jean d'Acre, or 
Caifa. 

At dinner we had the chaplain and officers of a French 
frigate anchored near. One of them was going off early 
to see the sun rise from Mount Tabor. The night was 



176 



BEDOUINS. 



one of terrific storm, and I could not help thinking of 
the poor ladies accompanying the caravan. Next day I 
sat in the salon looking out for them, and amusing 
myself with observing the loungers in the court below. 
One little boy was clothed in bright yellow, and I could 
not help asking myself what English matron would ever 
think of decking out any such minute particle of man- 
kind in such a hue. Another remarkable figure was 
that of a tall Arab, in a blue cloak, and with a yellow 
shawl fastened round his head with camel's hair. A 
woman going by had her robe all cut in strips, and 
bound with a gay colour, her dark hair hanging down 
from under a kerchief which partly confined it round 
her head. A real Bedouin, with long lance, and such 
a beautiful horse, with slender limbs, covered with a 
scarlet mantle, was an object of great interest as long 
as he remained in view. Another Bedouin passed on 
foot, his wife walking submissively after him, wearing a 
green turban surmounted by coins, and followed by a 
little boy dressed in red, who scampered after her — 
quite a family party. Several other Bedouin horsemen, 
all dressed as the one already described, rode past, 
taking the same route up to the mountain. As I sat 
contemplating this succession of sights, a train of bag- 
gage mules arrived, followed by several horsemen, a 
Dragoman and muccheroes, and two ladies on donkeys. 
This was the Austrian caravan, the members of which, 
all draggled and dirty, had been deluged in their tents 
the previous night. They had left Jerusalem on Sunday, 



CHAPEL OF THE ANNUNCIATION. 



177 



and it was now past mid-day on Thursday when they 
reached Nazareth. 

While the convent was in a general commotion to house, 
dry, and feed them, I went over to the church with one 
of the good /rate, and went down to the Chapel of the 
Annunciation, which is a grotto below the church. A 
little marble altar (sent from Naples), with an angel in 
bas-relief on each side as its supporters, and a figure of the 
Virgin, is very beautiful. A pillar, just beside it, has 
been hacked in two by the Turks, in the belief that 
there might be treasure hidden in it. The upper part 
remains as if suspended from the ceiling above. A door 
beside the altar opens on a few steps at a point where 
the Virgin's house is said once to have stood. There 
are several old daubs of paintings about the church, and 
one curious old tapestry ; while on the right hand of the 
door is a pretty slender pillar of ancient workmanship, 
near which a blind man was sitting, in the hope that a 
miracle of mercy might be performed on his behalf. 
The grand altar is raised over the site of the house and 
place of the Annunciation. I afterwards went to a place 
said to be the site of Joseph's workshop, on an Altar of 
Annunciation in which are the words u Verbum caro 
hie factum est," and some other words in Latin, 
signifying "Here He was subject unto them." Within a 
bare-looking chapel is shown a large stone called 
u Mensa Christi," supposed to be one whereon the 
Saviour ate with his disciples. I also heard it said that 
this church, which is not yet finished, is on the site of 

N 



178 



MOUNT OF TREMBLING. 



the Synagogue where Jesus read in the Book of the 
Law, and where the people were so enraged at his words 
that they endeavoured to precipitate him over the brow 
of a mountain, which I afterwards visited with all the 
company. This mountain is about an hour's walk from 
the present city, along the plain, and through a valley, 
which almost immediately contracts into a very narrow 
rocky defile, along the right-hand side of which, for half 
an hour, we had a most fatiguing clamber on our as- 
cent to the precipice which is supposed to be the one 
from the brow of which they would have hurled him. 
In a space cleared, either naturally or artificially, an 
immense gnarled branch of prickly pear-tree forms a 
rough seat, on which we sat down, while the president 
of the caravan read the chapter through which re- 
lates the circumstance. An " oremus " was then 
chaunted, the responses to which were given in Latin, 
as all the society were priests, except us three women- 
kind, and the attendants. 

I looked out from this platform on the plain of 
Esdrelon, and the hills, and the rocky, savage, and 
solitary glen by which we had ascended, as well as on the 
dreadful and sharp-pointed rocks beneath — a striking 
scene, perfectly adapted for the lawless outrage there 
said to have been committed on the person of our Lord. 
Continuing our way up the steep, we came to the place 
called the Mount of Trembling, to which tradition says 
the Blessed Virgin ran on seeing her Divine Son in 
such savage hands. 



ARAB HORSEMEN. 



179 



Nazareth is a dirty place, but beautifully situated, ap- 
parently quite embedded in hills. The sites which are 
pointed out in the city are of but little interest in 
themselves — except perhaps the Fountain of Mary 
— but the scenes of nature around are lovely and 
grand. When St. Louis came to Nazareth, he dis- 
mounted when the city first came into view, and walked 
barefoot down to it. 

One afternoon, subsequent to this, I went out on a 
pleasant shady path seen from the convent, winding un- 
der prickly pear-trees, up a hill behind, where were a 
few tombs. Two Arabs were riding in the plain beneath, 
turning their steeds with much grace, even when 
riding at their swiftest speed. These horsemen seemed to 
be showing off and practising in the presence of some 
women who were near. As I was descending the hill, 
from which I had had a view of the mountains of Gilboa, 
two women came by me on a shady walk, one with very 
soft eyes and pleasing manners ; and soon after a group 
of children, dressed in bright red and yellow, asking 
" backsheesh," followed by another group, in the same 
bright colours, carrying water. A tall girl also passed 
me, in full pink trowsers, drawn in round the ankle, which 
seems the mode in Nazareth, and the vest divided in 
four from the waist. One woman had the curiosity to 
touch my crinoline and examine it with wonder. Two 
patient camels were unloading large iron bars near the 
hospice, and a donkey was standing by with a load of grass. 
I supposed it was their supper, but the driver soon came 

N 2 



180 



MOUNT TABOR. 



and made both get up and march on, many more weary 
miles — patient beasts ! 

At five on a fine morning I left Nazareth, and set out 
for Tiberias, with a numerous company, all well mounted ; 
our Dragoman, on a white horse, leading the way, in a 
rather smart costume, namely, a yellow Bedouin shawl, 
covering the red fez, a yellow vest, and a wide belt. The 
dozen German and Austrian ecclesiastics had all white 
coverings on their hats ; among them the large grand- 
looking Prior of St. Jean d'Acre. He had come to at- 
tend on a little humble-looking woman in black, who it 
seems is a lady of rank going through the Holy Land on 
a pilgrimage. We three ladies were stationed about the 
middle of the cavalcade, and the two singular pilgrims who, 
under a vow, have come almost all the way from Siberia 
on foot, carrying their large black crosses, brought up 
the rear. In less than three hours we came to the foot 
of Mount Tabor, rising in a dome-like form direct from 
the plain, dotted with large trees and pleasant shrubs, 
and delightful with shade and verdure. No words were 
required to know what mountain it was, so distinct was 
it from all the bare hills around it. We began to ascend 
it from the sides of a rocky little glen. At the steepest 
part the Dragoman begged us all to dismount, and we 
arrived at the summit in about an hour, between 
ten and eleven o'clock. While the little Neapolitan lady 
and I were by chance left quite alone, a boy came sud- 
denly and snatched at the bridle of my horse ; and I, 
startled and taking him for a young Bedouin, beat him 



WONDERFUL VIEW. 



181 



with my umbrella till he let go. I then ascended part 
of the ruins at the summit, to see the view, which is 
truly wonderful in all directions. All Palestine seemed 
to lie under our feet, and part of the lake of Tiberias 
was visible over a depression in its close encircling moun- 
tains. The city of Nain, too, was pointed out to me. 

Most of our number stood meanwhile, without shade 
from the intense heat and sunshine, listening to a German 
pamphlet on antiquity, read by the learned Professor R — . 
I retreated to some little distance and sat down under 
a tree, better pleased with the sight of Nature, spread 
before the eyes of her admirers like a glorious picture, 
and thinking of what the favoured few of the human 
race had once seen there. Who at such a time, and in 
such a scene, could patiently listen to book-reading ? 

There was a modern Greek church, and also an 
ancient chapel on the summit amongst the ruins. Mass 
was said in the little chapel, I believe, but I could not 
lose a moment of air, sky, and landscape. The summit 
is stated to be about "seven hundred paces in length, and 
three hundred in breadth, surrounded with rocks of vari- 
ous heights, all overgrown with trees and shrubs, but the 
basin itself covered only with grass. There are no 
springs here, but hewn cisterns in the limestone rock." 

This mountain has been the scene of many struggles, 
and was fortified both by the Jews when resisting the 
Roman occupation of Palestine, and by Malek Adel, who 
destroyed the convents the Crusaders had established 
upon it. After we had rested in the shade of the 



182 



PLAIN OF HITTIM. 



spreading trees at the summit, gazing on that Holy 
Land wherein all the Bible history was as it were un- 
folded to view, and feeling so much nearer to Heaven 
and the Angels, we began to descend. It would not 
have been safe to remain without a guard in a place so 
completely isolated, and likely to be the hiding haunt 
of Arab robbers, although there were some of us who 
would have been willing even to run the risk. The 
descent was in some parts very steep. We women and 
the doughty prior lingered, and being left alone, were 
not missed till the company was on the road to Tiberias, 
when one of the muccheroes was sent back to look for us. 
When we rejoined our companions, the dragoman had 
to bear with humility the reproof of the ecclesiastic, 
after which, in the hot afternoon sun, we continued our 
journey for some hours over the long plain of Hittim, 
where Saladin routed the Crusaders, took Guy of 
Lusignan prisoner, and many Templars, beheading all 
the latter, and offering his soldiers fifty gold pieces 
for every Christian's head. In the streets of Damascus 
they are said to have been seen heaped up like melons 
in baskets. The Bishop of St. Jean d'Acre was 
mortally wounded while bearing the true cross in the 
battle -field, and the Moslems forced it from his dying 
hand only when he was no longer able to hold it. The 
plain was covered with the dead. This engagement 
took place on the 5th of July, 1187. 

As we proceeded we came upon a company of 
Bedouins walking over the plain, armed with long clubs, 



TIBERIAS. 



183 



each with a heavy knob at the end. They eagerly eyed 
our caravan as we came up in little groups, but we were 
too strong to be attacked. They followed us, however, 
hanging on our track, the nine fierce-looking fellows, 
with long black hair, marching in a line after us. I con- 
fess I felt timid enough, remembering the dexterous feat 
of one of them which I had witnessed a few days before. 
I believe it was only the * presence of the Superior of 
St. Jean d'Acre that saved us from an attack, these 
wild wandering tribes all having a knowledge and kind 
of respect for the heads of convents, indeed for all the 
monastic orders, who are good to them in times of sick- 
ness or distress. I looked back for one of the walking 
pilgrims who had been left behind, and saw him running 
with all his might to overtake us, and distance the 
Bedouins by a short cut. 

We went on for some miles in this state of anxiety. 
At last, after getting to the summit of a rising ground, 
the point where the plain finishes, the lake of Tiberias 
became visible in its whole extent, lying a thousand feet 
below. The descent to the town of Tiberias, with its 
old castle and fortifications on the edge of the lake, is 
very steep and rocky, the lake being surrounded on all 
sides by white and bare rocks. We entered by a lofty 
gateway, now unguarded and unnoticed, though many a 
fierce contest has raged round the walls in times gone 
by. The ramparts of the town were built by Godfrey of 
Bouillon. Tasso's hero, Tancred, was lord of Tiberias. 
The fierce Turk has often carried there the thunders of 



184 



DWELLING OF AN ARAB CHRISTIAN. 



war. The French troops, during Napoleon's occupation 
of the country, spread devastation around. 

The Franciscans have a small house and chapel, en- 
closed in a garden close to the shore, whereon the gently 
rippling waves were breaking, while the moonbeams were 
already gilding the surface of the lake, far out over its 
depths. On a subsequent occasion, going through the 
little fruit bazaar, attended by the brethren's native 
servant, in order to procure a few raisins and figs, a 
civil Arab Christian invited us to enter his abode and 
see his family. We accepted his invitation, and entered 
his hut, which was at fire heat. He offered us sweet 
cakes. His wife, who was dressed in silks of different 
colours, was a beautiful woman, with fine large eyes 
and arched brows. Their hospitality, however, was 
rather a bore, for the man sent his wife and mother to 
procure us some milk, which, after they with great 
trouble had found a basin, the man carried about with 
him in his hand wherever he accompanied us. His two 
children were rather pretty — one a boy with large 
lustrous eyes, and the other a little girl. His dwelling, 
enclosed in a court, he showed us as a curiosity, as well as 
some dusty flowers and a small tree, far gone in con- 
sumption. We were glad when we at last succeeded in 
getting quit of him, and in finding our way back to the 
little strand before the chapel, where we could sit down 
to contemplate the quiet beauty of the. sacred waters. 
Many children, however, even here gathered round us, 
and we had to climb on a wall to get out of their reach, 



SPANISH PADRE. 



185 



as they were perpetually fingering our dresses and hats. 

We remained out till we were called in to supper. 
An old German clergyman, who was found in the chapel, 
was asked in also, with whom our ecclesiastics talked in La- 
tin, as they were not familiar with each other's languages, 
the padre being a Spaniard, and the prior a Neapolitan. 
The appearance of our dragoman to announce our de- 
parture on the morrow, occasioned great commotion and 
anger amongst the petticoats, -as it was the will of the 
men he obeyed. 

After supper I went out once more on the strip of 
beach, to enjoy the brilliant moonlight which can be 
seen only in the East, and sat awhile there in the con- 
templation which I so dearly loved. The chapel, which 
opens from the quiet court, stands on the site where our 
Saviour stood and called to his disciples (St. John xxi,, 
4th verse) after his Eesurrection. The padre, who, being 
a Spaniard, is a man of dignified and gentle manners, 
lives here, with one brother, in two rooms, which were 
erected a few years since. Their existence must be 
peaceful enough when undisturbed by guests, who, 
indeed, have no reason to expect shelter and entertain- 
ment from them, as a notice is hung up in the salon at 
Nazareth, that neither is provided for them at Tiberias. 
People should, therefore, take a tent and food, or do 
without. I was told there was something like a little 
auberge, and that many Jews have rooms that might 
perhaps be hired for a night. 

In the morning I took a giro on the lake for a couple 



186 



COUNTRY OF THE GADARENES. 



of hours, an ecclesiastic reading the passages in the 
gospels referring to its sacred history. It is about 
fifteen miles long, and six broad, and its surface seven 
hundred feet below the level of the Mediterranean. 
I saw the position of the town well, also the domes of 
the new baths erected by the pacha, near the natural 
hot baths, within which I was told the scene was dis- 
gusting, all the bathers being without clothes. Opposite 
Tiberias is the country of the Gadarenes, where I 
thought I could discern the steep place which the 
herd of swine ran violently down — a sharp descent, 
wide and bare, reaching down to the lake's brink. The 
lake was very clear and still as we sailed over it in a 
large fisherman's skiff ; and I could not but remember 
with deep reverence that this was the water on which 
those blessed feet that went about doing good once 
walked. With what awed and solemn feelings did I 
gaze down into their blue, translucent depths ! 

Evidences of volcanic action (the lake itself filling up 
an old crater) are gathered from the appearance 
of the surrounding coasts, which are said to have 
been at one time so fertile, that fruit was produced in- 
cessantly for ten months in the year. There is, un- 
fortunately, little or none now, a few green apples, figs, 
and raisins, which we saw in the bazaar, giving little 
evidence of fertility or good cultivation. 

The mountains seen to the north are those where the 
Jordan enters the lake ; and Mount Hermon, capped 
with perpetual snow, is seen above them. This mountain, 



DJEBEL SHEIK. 



187 



so often used as a symbol of might and power in the 
Holy Scriptures, rises to the height of ten thousand 
feet. " Seen from the south, it rises from a com- 
paratively level country like a mighty rampart, 
stemming the onward march of the endless moun- 
tains behind it towards Gilead and Palestine," the 
heights seeming to draw aside from the lake, that it 
may be seen. Its Arab name is Djebel Sheik ; or the Old 
Man's Mountain. 



188 



CHAPTER XL 



Cana of Galilee — The Marriage Feast Chamber — A Storm — From Naza- 
reth to Caifa — The Brook Kishon — The Telegraph — Caifa — Con- 
vent Rest — Nuns on a Journey— Scenes traversed by them — Sidon 
— Its Traffic — Departure from Caifa — Adieu to Palestine — Beyrout 
—A Voyage en Orient — Amiable English Lady — News from 
Europe — Friends from the Desert — En route to Damascus — The 
Ridges of Lebanon — Djebel Sheik — The Diligence from Damascus 
— The Approach to the City. 



E set off from Tiberias about one o'clock, ascend- 



' " ing the steep, and often looking wistfully back. 
We dismounted, and visited an eminence on the right 
hand, considered to be that where the " Sermon on the 
Mount " was delivered. The president read over the 
chapters, and I could not but feel deeply impressed in 
listening to those sublime sentences, especially the open- 
ing blessings, in that sacred scene where they were first 
spoken. The scene which our eyes beheld He once 
looked upon. Mount Hermon was clouded at the top, 
but we could see its huge sides streaked with snow. 

We descended, after spending some time on this emi- 
nence, which is a mound upon a mountain height, level 
for a considerable distance around. When we came 
down, no horses, no dragoman, were in sight. The gen- 
tlemen ran hither and thither with spy-glasses ; but it 
was nearly an hour before the distant place of halt was 




CAN A OF GALILEE. 189 

discovered ; and we had an exciting walk towards it 
through thistles, and a hurried ride over the plain after 
in violent rain, which came suddenly on. 

Cana of Galilee, on a slope of rising ground, is a poor 
place, remarkable for the number of dogs which are 
perpetually barking. The women and children, at- 
tracted by so large a company, gathered round us, 
many coming to me ; one woman especially, who clapped 
her baby into my lap as I was looking about, reining 
in my horse, while another examined the structure of 
my riding-skirt. Wild creatures they looked. A rough 
white garment was drawn over their heads, contrast- 
ing with the dark faces and raven hair beneath it. A 
wretched Greek chapel, consisting only of a large room 
or hall on the reputed site of the marriage-feast chamber, 
was used as a school, where boys were being instructed, 
standing and sitting round on mats. As we passed over 
_the steep, leaving the town, and took our way by the 
old paths tracked on the rocky ground, we could imagine 
the mild Teacher and his disciples walking from Naza- 
reth to such a gathering as this. 

A violent storm of wind, rain, and hail came on when 
we were ascending the mountain intervening between 
this route and Nazareth, and I kept my seat only by 
main strength, the rain blinding my eyes, and the horses 
slipping on the ledges of rock. One fell just as we 
rounded the shoulder of the height, meeting the whole 
force of the wind. I was truly thankful when we 
reached Nazareth in safety. Wet through and weary 



190 THE BROOK KISHON. 

enough we were when we entered the hospice, hut a 
day of rest soon restored us, and we left at six in the 
morning, on our return to Caifa. 

The path ascends the mountain (as every route must 
on leaving Nazareth, which lies in a hollow surrounded 
by heights except at a narrow opening southwards), and 
then crosses a romantic pass whose sides are pierced 
with caves. After passing a poor village, we made an 
hour's halt in a wood, and took what is called the route 
cTete, rather prematurely, as it proved, for the marsh 
was not dry. The man who led my horse was some- 
times more than knee-deep in water, and when we came 
to the brook Kishon the two foot pilgrims were wading 
across it, the stream reaching to their middle, and they 
holding up their crucifixes, in a manner to some extent 
suggestive of Bunyan's Christian. I was very glad, 
nevertheless, when an Arab started up from amongst 
the brushwood, and showed the way, at some little dis- 
tance, to the ford, a charming place, with flowers in 
bloom that in northern latitudes are only seen in hot- 
houses. My steed went well through ; and I picked a 
lovely branch of red blossoms in triumph at the other 
side. This marsh is an awkward place, and some of 
the horses cleared it with great difficulty. The Tele- 
graph, when we came to it, looked wonderfully natural, 
and like an old acquaintance, amidst all the strange 
scenes and sights of this journey. 

We passed a little town on the side of Carniel, so 
long that it seemed to form a strong bulwark for the 



CAIFA. 191 

whole country. After seeing it I could better realize 
the idea of ^ all Israel gathered on Carmel." Two 
romantic-looking valleys appeared to break its wall-like 
surface. The Carmelite convent, and the little town of 
Caifa nestling beneath, were welcome visions to us 
after our wearisome journey. As we entered the town, 
during the quiet afternoon hours, our horses' footsteps 
waked up the dogs, and a few human beings. I went 
to the Consul's, and saw his pleasing wife, who talked 
of Miss Rogers, the sister of the English Consul. She, it 
seems, had made herself very popular in that small circle. 

After this interview, I gladly repaired to my peaceful 
nun's abode, where, after eight days' fatigue, how sweet 
was rest amid the murmur of waves and the fragrance 
of flowers ! The superieure of the Nazareth nunnery 
was also there, an amiable and cheerful woman, whom I 
told of the disrespect with which I had treated her easy 
saddle by going perforce a gallop on it over the plain. 
The two superieures were about the same height, and 
looked very interesting in their religious costume. The 
Pere Directeur came to the parlour next morning to 

visit me as Madame C. M 's friend. I heard him 

preach in Arabic, the guttural sounds of which made 
my throat ache for sympathy with his reverence's dif- 
ficulty in uttering them. This house has a pleasant 
corridor of ten arches running along the garden, flowers 
climbing up before some of the cells. It has also a view 
of the lovely sea. The order of Notre Dame de Nazareth 
was established in Paris. 



t 

192 



RELIGIOUS HOUSES. 



There are four religious houses in Palestine, at Sidon, 
Caifa, Nazareth, and St. Jean d'Acre, and about twenty 
sisters in all. Many Arab women attend the mass, and 
behave now with great propriety, though at first they 
used to talk about their families to each other in the 
chapel. It is a striking sight to see these inhabitants 
of the desert, enveloped in a covering of white from 
head to foot, crouching subdued and quiet in the same 
chapel with the meek sisters vowed to a religious life, 
whom the rule of their order, or their own voluntary 
sacrifice, has planted in this distant and wild region, 
bringing them face to face with women so different from 
themselves. 

A cotton manufactory is being established here by some 
Europeans. The native women used to weave and pre- 
pare the cotton, but they have now lost this employment. 
Last year, as I was told with some exultation, the 
second floor of the house was twice destroyed, while 
building, by storms of wind, thunder, and lightning. 
The charm of being so close to the sea, with the run of 
the garden, prevented my caring to attend the chapel 
services often, though the singing of the nuns in four- 
part harmony was very sweet. The silent masses I 
never perfectly understood ; and the movements of the 
priest, his gestures and reverences, do not appear to a 
Protestant very devotional. The superieure of Notre 
Dame de Nazareth, who was here on some occasion of 
conventual business, was a charming woman, appa- 
rently very anxious that an application should be made 



TYRE AND SIDON. 



193 



to the pacha through the French Consul, the only 
channel of communication they have with the authorities 
of the country, whatever circumstances may happen to 
call for their aid. She and the lady superior of Caifa 
Notre Dame de Nazareth 3 made the journey to Beyrout 
on some occasion of importance to their establishments 
shortly before, going on donkeys, attended only by 
muccheroes. They accomplished their task in safety, 
taking five days in all — two to go, one in Beyrout, and 
two to return. They have at Sidon a little branch of 
their house, with four sisters resident (flowers in the 
weary way, an oasis in the desert). The track was 
over the sand beside the sea all the way. One may fancy 
these two women in their black dresses, silver crosses, 
white caps, and ample black veils, meekly bearing the 
scorching heat and the fatigue of ten hours' ride each 
day, murmuring their prayers at regular intervals, the 
long, dreary way, trustfully fulfilling their mission. 
Surely " angels were given charge concerning them." 
Wild Arabs, clothed in skins, and lawless Bedouins, met 
them, wondered at them, but harmed them not. They 
passed the ruins of those famous cities, Tyre and Sidon, 
denounced in the days of their pride, and now illus- 
trating to the letter the words of the prophecy. Hand- 
maidens of the Lord, they passed on, finding the inhabi- 
tants of the isle " still " indeed, confirming what was 
said to the dwellers therein when Tyre was a " joyous 
city," when merchants were replenishing her stores, 
when the harvest of the river was her revenue, that a 

o 



194 



SIDON. 



time should come when all should " be still," the " noise 
of her songs " should cease, the " sound of her harps " 
be no more heard. These holy women proceeded by 
the path on which the Lord had caused " nations to 
come up against ,? the city, as the " sea causeth his 
waves to come up," and perhaps thought, as they looked 
on the few fishing-boats, of the time when the masts of 
her ships were made of the cedars of Lebanon, and their 
seats of ivory brought from the isles of Chittim ; when 
their sails were made of fine linen with broidered work 
from Egypt, spread forth to the wind ; when chests of 
rich apparel, bound with cords and made of cedar, were 
brought for her citizens and sent forth from her markets ; 
when presents of horn, of ivory, and of ebony, came to 
her gates ; when men from Syria sat in her booths, 
with purple and broidered work, fine linen, emeralds, 
coral, and agate for her luxurious dwellers ; and they 
saw, as generation after generation has seen, how her 
u pleasant houses," her walls, and her towers have been 
brought to " ashes upon the earth." Continuing their 
journey, these women came to Sidon, where the 
" mariners of Tyre" once dwelt ; a body so large, that 
not only Tyre itself was filled with them, but also Awad. 
At Sidon, weary and worn with their long day's journey, 
the two religieuses rested and slept peacefully, while the 
little community tended them, providing, at the same 
time, for their simple wants on the morrow. 

Sidon remains shorn, indeed, of all its glory ; and 
though it suffered fearful chastisement, it escaped the utter 



THE TILGRIMAGE TO PALESTINE. 195 

ruin of Tyre. The words of Scripture, indeed, pointing 
to the day when the Lord executed judgments in Sidon, 
and sent pestilence and blood into her streets, when the 
" wounded were judged in the midst of her by the sword 
upon her on every side," indicate a distressing series of 
calamities borne by the inhabitants, but which have now 
long passed away. The city, the modern name of which 
is Saide, now contains about 15,000 souls ; and the 
neighbourhood shows vestiges of its ancient splendour 
in the columns and ruins which are scattered over it. 
The place has some traffic along the coast, and with 
Damascus. It has been the scene of many interesting 
events. Here our Saviour healed the daughter of the 
woman of Canaan. St.. Paul touched at Sidon on his 
way to Kome. Its situation is beautiful, nearly sur- 
rounded by the sea, and with mountains in the back- 
ground. Their pilgrimage to Palestine must always be 
an act of voluntary devotion on the part of members of 
the religious orders. Their superiors cannot oblige 
them to take the distant journey, and to expose them- 
selves to the hardships and dangers that are occasion- 
ally encountered by them in a country to such an extent 
cut off from the general Christian community. These 
religieux, perhaps, bear their trials with greater submis- 
sion, from the fact that the work they have undertaken 
has not been imposed upon them, but that they have 
voluntarily devoted themselves to a mission upon which, 
when they have once entered, their submission must be 
absolute. Some such task, I suppose, was laid upon 

o 2 



196 



DEPARTURE FROM SIDON. 



the two heads of convents, for the journey along such a 
line of coast seemed a laborious and somewhat dangerous 

one. 

The day on which I was to leave having arrived at 
last, I could not help reflecting how many peaceful 
hours I had spent writing at my pleasant window, look- 
ing out on the gently breaking waves, waving ta- 
marisk branches, and in conversation with the kind 
superieures, from whom, and from the amiable 
religieuses, I had received all the minute and thoughtful 
attentions which they so well know how to administer, 
both to the coming and the parting guest. Everything 
in the place was of interest to me, and I paid a farewell 
visit even to the little rabbits, the pigeons, the house- 
dogs, and the donkeys, all in their separate departments, 
evincing that tameness which is inspired by the confi- 
dence of security and the certainty of kindness. Even 
the poor animal filling the important post of corn-grinder, 
always going round on a kind of raised terrace, looks 
with a glance of affection at the one-eyed man whose 
duty it is to watch him all day. 

It was nearly nine o'clock when the signal-gun of the 
steamer's arrival sounded, and a messenger from the 
Consul's came to summon me, and convey me on board. 
I left my treasured little pet, the companion of so many 
perils, and of so many chequered scenes, as a present to 
the nuns, all their animals seeming to lead such a happy 
life, that I knew I could leave him without anxiety 
among them ; whereas, while travelling, I was constantly 



ADIEU TO PALESTINE. 



197 



fearing that some accident might at any time happen to 
him. I bade adieu to these Christian females with 
some sadness, feeling, when about to plunge again into 
the ruder realities of worldly life, that I was not likely 
to " look upon their like again." 

The odious hats and backs of the Austrian caravan 
were now afloat, and the boat made its way over the 
tumbling waves to the steamer lying a couple of miles 
out in the bay. It was a moonlight night, and from the 
deck I looked on the long range of Carmel, entirely 
covered with a thick white wall-like cloud, which seemed 
to obscure the light of the Pharos on the promontory. 
A light which I saw below, near the nunnery, I fancied 
might be one in my pretty room, a sign that one of 
the good nuns was going to her innocent and holy 
rest in it. 

Adieu to Palestine ! How short and how dreamlike 
appears the time spent in its cities, on its plains, upon 
its mountains, and in its valleys, where I saw so much, 

and yet left much more unseen. Fraulein B , and 

the amiable religieuses at Jerusalem, J affa, Nazareth, and 
Caifa, all so unworldly, how good you were to me, a 
wandering stranger from a distant land, and how gladly 
I would have abided with you, had not imperious cir- 
cumstances fixed my lot elsewhere ! Sacred land of our 
faith, writ as with the finger of God in its length and 
breadth — land where scenes of such mighty import to 
the whole human race in generations past, and to ages 
yet unborn, have been transacted !• — land which, if the 



198 



TRAVELLERS IN THE HOLY LAND. 



unerring word of prophecy fail not, shall yet recover its 
ancient glory — I bid you for ever farewell ; but the 
recollection of all I have seen, and felt, and experienced 
within your borders will never be effaced from my heart ! 
Calmly and steadily the vessel bore on over the briny 
deep, while I indulged in such meditations; and when the 
morning broke we beheld the massive and grand heights 
of Lebanon, and the city of Beyrout, in its beautiful 
position. I landed at the Dogana near an old tower, 
and engaging a vehicle, was conveyed to the Oriental 
Hotel, the bed-rooms of which were hot and stifling, 
from the number of people that occupied them. The 
house consists of two courts, on which the windows of 
the various rooms open, looking upon pleasant growing 
flowers in the centre. Steep steps lead up to the roof, 
whence there is a fine view, which to me is always highly 
attractive. Some English midshipmen, and a few 
tourists, were at the table, the latter talking very glibly 
of what they had seen and done. I know not how it is, 
but I could never bring myself to rattle away in light 
conversation the names and scenes of Palestine, pre- 
ferring always to listen in silence to what was said, in the 
hope of learning something I had not known before. 
People who could talk so superficially of camping on the 
mountains of Moab, as did those of our company at 
dinner, had better henceforth leave their homes only for 
a railway trip to Devonshire or Scarborough, in which, 
doubtless, they will find all they have in view — pleasure, 
comfort, and society. These, in their ordinary and 



NEWS FROM EUROPE. 



199 



worldly acceptation, are not to be had in a voyage en 
Orient, and it is but justice to own that frivolous 
travellers are not often met with in these regions, the time, 
expense, and difficulties of every kind keeping aloof all 
but the really earnest or devout. I myself felt most 
thankful for the privilege of seeing so much of that most 
interesting of all lands ; for such it is to all who can 
realize the importance of man's eternal destinies. 

In two days I was established at Ras-Beyrout, an airy 
abode, close to the sea, with an arched corridor on the 
second floor, shaded by a large mulberry-tree. The 
waves came up close to the garden-gate, from which 
there was a view' of the lofty piles of Lebanon and the 
stately ships in the harbour. An amiable English lady, 
wife of the consul at Latakia, rendered my stay here 
more agreeable than even the delightful tranquillity 
of the place could have made it, by her agreeable 
society. Every evening, as sunset drew near, she ap- 
peared with books, newspapers, letters, or whatever 
she thought might be interesting to a solitary country- 
woman, who was delighted by her interesting company 
and friendly attentions. Many an hour did we spend 
together, sitting on the rocks before her pleasant resi- 
dence. 

The news from Europe at this time was entirely 
absorbed by the assassination of President Lincoln ; mat- 
ter of less interest being a letter written by the Pope to 
Victor Emmanuel (ah ! we shall yet read of that honest- 
hearted soldier), when the King of Italy prayed for 



200 



TRAVELLING PARTY. 



an audience, and begged the good old man's blessing 
and forgiveness. Still, even the smallest item of news 
from home was pleasant, and I read with interest about 
the Queen and her family, and about the Emperor 
Napoleon's visit to Algeria ; little events which reminded 
me that the dwellers in the West were jogging on in 
their usual way, while I was in the East, wandering 
amid scenes of sacred interest, known by heart from 
childhood, and which, since my eyes have seen them, 
have assumed a bodily reality. 

I remained some weeks at this place, where, with 
such valuable society, I thoroughly enjoyed myself. 
One hot, still afternoon, when the doors were shut, and 

all the household were asleep, the Misses B , whom 

I had formerly met at Naples, their brother, and a 
friend arrived, with a train of Arab guides and servants, 
tents and mules — in fact, their whole paraphernalia 
which they had used during ten weeks' camping. They 
had left Cairo early in March, taking a long track 
through the desert, and going past Akaba to Mount 
Sinai. Thence they had journeyed to Hebron and 
Jerusalem, round the Dead Sea, by Tiberias, and thence, 
by a long route, to Damascus, to Baalbec and the 
Cedars, coming down afterwards by the ravine of the 
Dog River to Beyrout, a long journey, during the course 
of which they had made some beautiful coloured 
sketches of the interesting views and objects seen in 
their route. The object of their journey, indeed, had 
been to look for illustrations of scriptural history, par- 



JOURNEY TO DAMASCUS. 



201 



ticularly on some portions of the track of the Israelites ; 
and with this view their charts, books, and memories 
all seemed to have been well looked up. We had much 
interesting conversation over what they had seen ; and 
by comparing notes, we were able to give each other 
some useful information. 

Damascus being the destination to which I had de- 
termined next to bend my steps, I made all necessary 
arrangements to continue my journey in that direction. 
Accordingly, when next day, as soon as objects were visi- 
ble, the huge diligence for Damascus, drawn by six strong 
horses, three abreast, made its appearance, I took my 
place in it, and the conductor started at once at a good 
round pace, with a viva from the Syrians, to whom a 
vehicle of such magnitude was, in these modern days, 
a novelty, though Naaman's chariot and thousands of 
others were known to generations that had long preceded 
them. 

"We soon began to mount the hills, from which, look- 
ing back on Beyrout and on the sea, we had some beau- 
tiful prospects. On the road, which is a |fine broad one, 
we met a body of Turkish soldiers coming from some 
mountain station, and as we advanced, the ridges of 
Lebanon began to show finely in three tiers of heights ; 
while the great Djebel Sheik, streaked and edged with 
snow, rose towering above all. We looked down occa- 
sionally on little villages, some of them perched on 
mountain torrents in the ravines. We also passed near 
the summit some curious formations of rock along the 



202 



MEETING OF THE DILIGENCES. 



hill sides, which imagination could almost picture as old 
temples in a state of ruin. No mountains in any part of 
the world that I have ever seen have such an ancient look 
as those of Lebanon, which are of a uniform grey tint. 

About nine o'clock, we began to descend the moun- 
tains, and in a short time, while the wind, which had 
been boisterous, was still blowing sharply, we entered 
on a wide plain, in which we soon saw trees, and heard 
the blessed sound of water, beside which, at eleven 
o'clock, we halted for an hour to rest and refresh our- 
selves at a kind of Locanda. 

The rushing stream and leafy shade were even more 
refreshing than the viands could have been; This place 
was quite an oasis, for beyond, on all sides, the plain 
was parched, dry, and stony, lines of rocky hills bound- 
ing it on all sides. 

When we changed horses at the next station, an im- 
mense pacha, who was our fellow-passenger, got out, 
and the coupe was all the lighter and cooler for his ab- 
sence. We met on the plain, about the middle of it, 
the diligence returning from Damascus, an event which 
was signalized by warm expressions of greeting between 
the staff of the two vehicles. Some large caravans, 
with merchandise, also crossed us on the road ; and we 
met two or three half-insane Europeans on horseback, 
with white unbrellas, going at a snail's pace, at the 
hottest hour of the day, along that fiery road. People, 
indeed, in this country, cannot always choose their own 
time, for the distances are considerable, and horses are 



APPROACH TO DAMASCUS. 



203 



frequently scarce, unless sent especially from Beyrout. 

About six o'clock we came again to trees, and heard 
water falling down in a gushing cascade from a rock 
above the road. People must have been under the 
burning skies of Syria, and have felt its fiery winds, 
before they can understand the delight with which such 
a sight is hailed during a day's journey. We were soon 
in the shade of some higher ground, and, with six fine, 
fresh-looking grey horses, began to plunge down a 
descent which appeared to be the side of a ravine. 
Some signs that we were nearing Damascus now began 
to be apparent. Horsemen, in their gallant Syrian 
costume, rode past us, not on poor, tired animals, but 
on prancing, spirited steeds. We ourselves were going 
on at full gallop by the bank of a river which was rush- 
ing on vehemently, keeping pace with us. We soon 
came to a bridge, on sweeping rapidly across which the 
walls and minarets of Damascus were all at once revealed 
to us, having a high mountain on the left, which 
looked down upon the city, and embraced by leafy 
woods on every side. Beyond the city the arid plain 
stretched away to the horizon, except at some points, 
where the monotony of the desert was broken by moun- 
tains in the distance. I was heartily glad the journey was 
near its termination ; and from the sensation with which 
the approach of the diligence was greeted, there must 
have been joy also in the city at its arrival. Gaily-dressed 
horsemen came galloping out from Damascus, and on 
meeting the vehicle, turned back with it. I particularly 



204 



ENTRANCE INTO THE CITY. 



noticed among the group who thus welcomed our advent, 
one richly-dressed boy who was excellently mounted. 
Turks and Arabs, as the diligence advanced, stood on 
each side of the road, giving many a salutation to the 
green-vested Hassan and his young brother, one the 
condncteur, the other the trumpeter, who had done their 
parts to the best of their ability all the day to facilitate 
our forty miles' journey over mountain and plain. Some 
horses now and then manifested such excitement when 
the huge noisy vehicle passed, that they had to be led 
off the road. Even the banks of the river, which rushed 
along its course with great rapidity, were covered with 
people vested in gay colours, turning out in such num- 
bers as if it had been a holiday. Near another 
bridge, over which we passed, I saw groups of white- 
veiled women who had obtained permission to gratify 
their curiosity by gazing upon us. 



205 



CHAPTER XIL 

Damascus — Kival Hosts — The Hotel of M. Demetrius Cara — The Old 
Castle — Minaret of the Grand Mosque — Ancient Tombs — A Bazaar 
— The Gazelle — The Grand Mosque — A Family of Travellers — ■ 
Scene of the Christian Massacres — Franciscan Convent — Streets 
and Bazaars — The Shopkeeper's Siesta — Dress of the Women — ■ 
Somnolent Worshippers — Paying a Visit — The Effendi — A Damas- 
cus Family — A Day Out — Eastern Courtesy — Climbing — Mag- 
nificent View — The Environs of Damascus — The Pacha's Seraglio — 
The Sheik— Evening— The Walls of the City— The Arab at Home 
— The Baths — Shady Courts — The Consul's Residence — A Holiday. 

WHO can describe the scene that was presented to 
us when we entered the city of Damascus ? 
The quaint old houses, with great beams of timber, the 
casemented, wooden windows, the light minarets, the 
heavy domes, the flat stone roofs of the houses, and the 
pointed trees rising above them. When we drove up 
to the hotel, Demetrius Cara presented his card, which 
promised the most liberal reception to travellers, and the 
best guidance to those who placed themselves under his 
control, in preference to that of his rival, M. Gigot, 
whose emissary also was there to catch unwary visitors 
to the East. Placing ourselves under the protection of 
Demetrius Cara, our host led us into a court, in the 
centre of which was a gold and silver fish-pond, sur- 
rounded with trees and flowers, into which water was 



206 



CHOICE OF A GUIDE, 



flowing pleasantly down. Large and lofty rooms opened 
off from the court, and there was a terrace above, 
which, though apparently cool, really was not so. How- 
ever, a truce to description — it is repose I want at 
present. It was pleasant next morning to descend from 
the balcony on which my sleeping-room opened, into the 
cool shady court, with its blooming flowers and flowing 
water. I found my way into a kind of double salon, in 
the centre of which was an octagon marble fountain, 
with a raised dais on each side, spread with Turkey 
carpets, and furnished with marble tables and divans. 
Close to the trickling fountain was a writing-table, a 
tempting provision for leisure hours ; but neither books, 
papers, music, nor anything of the kind, luxuries which, 
if necessary to the traveller, he must take with him into 
Syria. 

In the outer court were several guides and dragomans, 
from among whom I chose a young lad whose face 
pleased me by its expression of ingenuousness. This 
youth was my first escort about Damascus, and with 
him I took very much my own way, for I much dislike 
being led about captive by a peremptory guide, who 
will enforce his claim on your attention to the long 
stories and descriptions which he considers it his duty 
to repeat. The city stands on very level ground, and it 
is difficult to find an eminence whence one may obtain a 
view of it** I asked permission to mount the battle- 
ments of an old castle which seemed quite in ruin ; and 
while the guards, who were stationed at the stone bridge 



DAMASCUS. 



207 



that spanned the moat, hesitated, an officer passed, who 
at once gave the permission I desired. Crossing the 
bridge, I ascended some steps in the thickness of 
the wall, where, in consequence of several gaps and 
holes, caution was necessary. The building consisted of 
a succession of towers at intervals, enclosing a spacious 
court. The walls, which were massive, were constructed 
of large handsome squares of stone, and the crenellated 
battlements were provided with loop-holes, through 
which there was a picturesque view over some parts of 
the city, and down into the pleasant gardens and taste- 
ful courts of some of the private dwellings. I observed 
two women and a child, dressed in bright colours, sitting 
by a fountain, which was partly shaded by trees, but by 
no means, even though in the "jealous East," secluded 
from the observation of soldiers who might have been 
stationed on the battlements. 

The city speads in every direction, and appears to 
be enclosed on all sides by a mass of foliage. The tall 
minaret of the grand mosque, and the smaller ones of 
many others, rise above the white flat roofs, and the 
coloured walls enclosing the mosques. The devastated 
Christian quarter, which suffered so much in the san- 
guinary disturbances that took place here two or three 
years ago, was pointed out to me. My present view 
embraced a faubourg, which seemed to rise up the ac- 
clivity of a mountain behind the city. Above the fau- 
bourg was a cemetery, in which were several ancient 
tombs, mostly of a circular form. The large trees that 



208 



SECLUDED HOTEL. 



grew in different parts of the city gave considerable 
novelty, charin, and variety to the view of this ancient 
Eastern capital. The young lad by whom I was ac- 
companied, and who, I suppose, cared little for the 
picturesque, now suggested that the grand mosque 
would be open to an English visitor in the forenoon. I 
accordingly descended, crossed the court-yard, and 
went out by a gate which opened into a bazaar 
where arms are fabricated, and near which are some 
large old trees, among them one that served as a dwell- 
ing for a hermit years ago, with a little door in its trunk. 
Turning into a narrow passage, I entered a street with 
high walls, in which was a small building that seemed 
to be an hotel. Thinking that I might obtain a short 
rest here, I knocked at a low entrance, on which the 
cloor immediately opened, and a beautiful gazelle came 
out, as if to see who it was. The pretty creature was 
quite domesticated, running about the court, and into 
the rooms, and even jumping up on the divan. The 
hostess soon made her appearance, to whom I explained 
the reason of my intrusion. She informed me that the 
house was an hotel, though on a much smaller scale 
than that of Demetrius. The place looked secluded, 
and if I had been staying for a longer period, I should 
gladly have made it my home. The lady was very 
civil, and expressed her willingness, if in her power, to 
oblige me in any way she could. 

The grand mosque, which I soon reached, is entered 
by a great doorway, handsomely sculptured, and dark 



SCENE OF THE CHRISTIAN MASSACRES. 209 



with age, opening upon a marble-paved court. The 
interior of the building, the roof of which is at present 
undergoing repair, is filled with scaffolding, and covered 
with rubbish. In the body of the mosque is a covered 
tabernacle, containing the tomb of St. John, concealed 
with carpets, some portion of which were removed to 
enable me to see the white marble, richly and elaborately 
sculptured, forming the tomb, which is arched, and 
stands high from the pavement. The enclosing frame 
round the tabernacle is lined with glass, and provided 
with curtains, as the tomb is not always intended to be 
visible. The mosque is divided by columns of marble into 
three aisles, running into an open court, in which is a 
curious raised octagon tabernacle, entirely closed up, and 
within which the spirit of St. John, and of many other 
saints, are believed to be enclosed, for the protection of 
the city ; at least, so says the legend told respecting 
them. One of the most pleasant objects in the mosque 
is a fountain from which water is constantly flowing. 

I had some conversation in the evening with a family 
of travellers who had passed the winter in a boat on the 
Nile, moving up and down the river as they pleased. 
According to their account, they found it pleasant ; but, 
for my part, I would rather avoid so much sociability 
with the crocodiles. Next day I went through a 
quarter of the city where the horrors of the Christian 
massacre were recently perpetrated. Here everything 
was in ruins, houses demolished, and walls torn down • 
though in some parts they are beginning to rebuild. 

P 



210 



EASTERN SECLUSION, 



The traces of that savage and sanguinary warfare between 
the Druses and Christians, and the knowledge that the 
two parties, with all their smothered hatred, still exist 
in daily intercourse, give an unpleasant feeling of 
insecurity to those who are living in their vicinity, for 
at any hour the flame of rancour might be kindled anew, 

A new church is building in this quarter for the 
Franciscan convent, which I went to see. The place 
where the conversion of St. Paul is supposed to have 
taken place, is about two miles from the city, and a cha- 
pel has been erected on the spot to distinguish it. The 
house of Ananias is pointed out near the convent, in 
which mass is said three times every morning. 

The family who had accompanied me to Damascus 
having departed for Baalbec, on the route to which they 
intended to camp, and sketch such views as came in 
their way, I enjoyed the benefit of the room and foun- 
tain which they left vacant after their departure. Of 
all things at Damascus, one would like, if possible, 
to live awhile completely in that Eastern seclusion 
which is lulled to repose by the harmony of falling 
waters, the shade of trees, and the fragrance of flowers 
in the quiet courts. The number of trees in the city, 
and the numerous fountains, make Damascus, even 
though it has no ornamental places, according to our 
notions, no squares, no terraces, an exceedingly agree- 
able residence. The streets of Damascus, however, 
present many interesting remains of the past. Here are 
old lichen-covered walls, antique trellised windows, 



STREETS OF DAMASCUS. 211 

and quaint doorways, through which are seen curious 
figures sitting on mats, and under shrubs in the recesses 
of their dwellings, the doors of which are thrown open 
for air. Some rare old Arabesque remains, pierced 
stonework arching a fountain, or built into a wall, &c, 
occasionally meet the eye of the curious in search for 
the remnants of the past. Some of the little narrow 
winding streets, neither damp nor dark, form the ap- 
proaches by which entrance is gained to many a luxu- 
rious and graceful abode, adorned with rare creeping 
plants hanging down over the pink walls which are often 
met with. On some old stone seat, by a venerable gate 
or doorway, may be seen now and then figures, re- 
minding one of the personages that flit before the imagi- 
nation in reminiscences of the u Arabian Nights." The 
amalgamation of the European with the Eastern, which 
spoils Smyrna, and, though in a much less degree, 
Beyrout also, Damascus is destitute of — it is thoroughly 
Asiatic. The European is followed and stared at, his 
clothes are touched and examined as he stands at 
booths in the bazaars to make any purchase ; and if 
there is enjoyment in finding himself really amongst 
the people he came to see, and in observing the customs 
indigenous to the country, he may experience that en- 
joyment in Damascus. It is amusing to notice the 
sleeping shopkeepers, as you pass during the hour of their 
siesta, reclining on their goods. One, who had to be 
awakened when I called for something I wanted, was 
alive to business in a moment — a circumstance that 

p 2 



212 CONSUMPTION OF ENGLISH MANUFACTURES. 

might probably be explained by the fact that he was a 
Christian, perhaps a Greek, for his young son (my 
guide) spoke both French and Italian. A thorough 
Turk would not, I am persuaded, have condescended to 
minister to the convenience of any troublesome Frank 
who dared to disturb his slumbers. 

The day I was in the mosque, I saw many individuals 
sleeping about in the recesses, and under the portico, 
at the base of the walls. " They sleep to be blessed," 
I was told ; a comfort which all somnolescent persons in 
the house of prayer may appropriate to themselves, 
Moslem notion though it be. 

There is apparently a great consumption of English 
manufactures here. Muslins, calicoes, and cotton prints 
are in great demand, mostly of very bright colours, 
for the Asiatic will not wear any dull shades. The 
robes of the women are often made of yellow-sprigged 
muslin, or of material with a tint of lilac. We should, 
however, scarce recognise our own island productions in 
the novel arrangements which, in obedience to the 
requirements of the female toilet, they assume here ; the 
material being disposed in such a way that the pro- 
portions of the figure, and more of the neck than is 
customary among us, may be seen. No Manchester cotton 
muslin would know itself again in such circumstances. 

While here I paid a visit to a Damascus family whose 
residence was entered by a low doorway which opened 
on some steps, and, after two turnings, brought the visitor 
into a court with a marble pavement, arched over, and 



VISITS TO DAMASCUS FAMILIES. 



213 



shaded by a few trees round its central fountain, an 
embellishment which every house possesses. On the 
left of this court was a large and lofty chamber, with a 
raised flooring, on one side of which, covered with pretty 
matting, was a fountain and flowers. A divan went all 
round the apartment, which was as large and lofty as a 
moderate-sized church. On the dais squatted the 
prettiest of a group of young women, her eyebrows 
marked with a thick black line, and a turquoise ring 
through her right nostril. Several children, under the 
superintendence of an old woman, gathered round me 
as I entered, and after kissing me lifted my hat to see 
how my hair was dressed. When I took off my gloves 
they seemed surprised to find no rings on my fingers, 
their own being really cased in them. All this time the 
Effendi, who was crouched on a cushion at the head of 
the immense room, was quite deserted by his fair friends, 
and though he twice made a grave salaam, as if to 
attract observation, no one took any notice of him. 
When I took my departure they all came to the court 
begging me to stay much longer, or inviting me to come 
again, and when I took leave, they wished that my steps 
might be blessed, a parting salutation which, as you cross 
the threshold, has something graceful and friendly in it. 

I visited another family living in their summer resi- 
dence outside the city, in a garden, or rather orchard, 
in which grew a number of fruit-trees. A stream which 
ran through it was artificially made to rush down in a 
little cataract before a wooden house, divided into 



214 A FAMILY IN THEIR SUMMER RESIDENCE. 

several rooms, and covered with a vine. This miniature 
house stood across the stream, and was built on a foun- 
dation of trunks of trees fastened together. Two little 
balconies, with a handsome crimson hanging suspended 
from them, opened from the rooms, and in these the 
family occasionally sat on cushions in the cool of the 
evening, all the ladies employed in a lazy way, pulling 
some coloured wool. The children were clothed in 
bright-tinted muslins, and, like youngsters in our 
western clime, delighted in tucking up their full trousers 
to put their feet in the stream, which was pleasantly 
shaded with dense foliage. One of the children, a girl 
about nine or ten, was such a handsome creature, with 
large brown eyes, oval face, and cheeks in which the 
glow of carnation mounted as with intense enjoyment 
she ran round the mimic lake. A beautiful little 
creature she looked, lifting up her superb eyes to her 
mother in playful triumph and delight. 

The principal wife or mother kept her veil constantly 
down over her face, and only showed her long eyes. She 
was almost as reserved in her manner as the coyest of 
maidens, who, like the Irish fish, wish, and yet say no* 
She did not, like the town family matron, either touch 
or pull at my dress. It struck me that the rea- 
son why all the women kept on their veils — indeed 
only three or four of them were visible in this rural 
retreat — was because my guide, who this day was rather 
an older youth, had ventured to follow me in, and stood 
all the time behind me. 



ANCIENT TOMBS. 



215 



June 2nd. — This was a very hot morning, even the 
little gold fish, panting as if the water was not cool 
enough for them, and coming up to the surface to 
breathe a cooler atmosphere. I went out soon after 
breakfast to find a shady retreat under some of the 
dense foliage, from whence to enjoy the view. The 
combination of these two advantages, however, was no 
easy matter to find, and after trying more than one 
garden through which brooks were meandering, bathing 
the roots of the trees, and giving the grass as bright a 
tint as that of a mossy bank, I came upon the Barada 
stream rushing along, and followed its impetuous pro- 
gress for awhile, until I reached the mountain ridge which 
backs the city. I determined to ascend it, for there 
was no getting any prospect but of branches of trees 
amidst these otherwise pleasant resting-places. With 
Eastern courtesy the owners of some of these shady 
groves had spread a carpet for me to sit upon, and 
offered me the fruit they were gathering in. Having 
crossed the little river by a bridge, I ascended the base 
of the mountain, and came to some ancient tombs. 
Nothing but the shells of them appeared to be left, but 
these were structures as large as small mosques, with 
ruined cupolas, and arched loopholes, and turrets. I 
sat in the embrasure of one of these openings, looking 
out from the resting-place of the dead over the dwellings 
of the living, the city, with its charming border of deep 
green, its rivers, and its distant plain. 

It was now nearly mid-day ; all was perfectly still 



216 



ASCENT OF A HILL. 



arid very hot. The flat roofs below looked like stepping- 
stones down to the city. In some of them mats were 
spread under a slight awning, to be used, perhaps, as 
the beds of the family by night. 

After getting cool, and — an essential precaution 
before climbing — making all fast about me, so that no 
fluttering skirt, shawl, or veil, should make either eye 
or foot uncertain, I began to mount the rugged and 
frowning steep. The huge stones were very trying, 
and it was slippery work holding on to the rocky sides, 
where there was really no firm footing. I was very 
glad of a short interval of rest and shelter in a cave 
which I passed on my way up. The view increased in 
beauty at every pause, most of the city seeming gathered 
compactly beneath ; while some parts ran out here and 
there among the fields and trees of the country. The 
sandy plain, extending on all sides, looked like the sea 
surrounding an island. 

After the expenditure of some effort, the summit of 
the hill was gained, and I looked down upon the undu- 
lations of Lebanon, among which were two remarkable 
white eminences, all streaked as if with salt. Great 
Hermon, with its stripes of snow, as I had seen it 
through the overhanging clouds from the mount of the 
Beatitudes, above Tiberias, a month since, rose in 
majesty above all other heights in view. Imbedded in 
the mountains behind, I saw a wood, in the midst of 
which was a small town, Malpehamus, as Fermoy called 
it. To the east my eye ranged over the desert, stretch- 



EXTENSIVE VIEW. 



217 



ing far away ; and I discerned what at one time seemed 
mountain tops on the horizon, and at another appa- 
rently a lake. After rubbing my eyes in astonishment 
at what looked like a deception, I looked again, and 
all was gone. My senses had been deceived by the 
mirage. 

The aspect of Damascus from this height was enchant- 
ing. Dotted in its encircling woods were four villages, 
two of them in what looked like a bay of sandy plain, 
or, rather, ocean. An old road running along above 
the river, and turning round a promontory of trees, led 
to a village ; while, on the other side of it, the route 
could be traced across the sea-like plain of sand to the 
south. 

The charming and luxuriant mass of verdure in the 
midst of which Damascus and its surrounding villages 
stand, are like an oasis threaded by seven rivers, or, 
rather, by two rivers and their branches ; the distant 
lakes, and the broad belt of encircling sands forming a 
picture of peculiar beauty, which gives quite a peculiar 
character to this capital. As my eye wandered over 
the extensive view, imagination pictured the far-distant 
Palmyra, in all its lonely and ruined grandeur, the 
city where once reigned, in her loveliness and splen- 
dour, the dazzling Zenobia, to be at length made cap- 
tive by the Roman legions, and led in drooping sorrow 
through the streets of Damascus, on her way to swell 
the conqueror's triumph in haughty Rome. The way 
by which the zealous persecutor Saul drew nigh to 



218 



VILLAGES AND HAMLETS. 



the city he was to enter a soul-stricken penitent, must 
also have been in view, though I could not determine 
which it was. 

The records of Damascus, one of the most ancient 
cities in the world, have filled many a page of history. 
It is now regarded by the Moslems as second only to 
Mecca, as one of the four holy cities ; and, thirty years 
ago, no European would have been permitted to ap- 
proach it, unless he had succeeded in deceiving the 
native population by assuming their costume. It is 
only recently that foreign consuls have been allowed to 
reside within its walls. 

As I moved along the ridge of the eminence, I looked 
down on Dummar, El Hakim, and Damis, three small 
towns, the first of which I remembered passing in the 
diligence, when, after the sultry desert, I beheld with a 
feeling of gratitude its green trees and sparkling water. 
The two other villages must be passed in going to 
Baalbec. 

From a pile of stones on the eastern side of the 
summit, I counted four more hamlets dotting that 
pleasant part of country which was covered with ver- 
dure, and through which, like a silver thread, the 
sparkling river ' wound its way. Descending on this 
side, I found it very uneasy work to make my way 
down under the shelving rocks, and in gullies scooped 
out by torrents during the rainy season. Fermoy, my 
attendant, however, did his best to encourage me ; and, 
singing all the time a kind of low chaunt or song, as 



THE PACHA'S SERAGLTO. 



219 



they do when guiding their camels, he led me safely 
down. It was past five o'clock when we got to the 
bottom. Though the poor lad was dinnerless, he never 
complained, but was quite content with a lump of bread 
and fruit which I gave him. 

We re-crossed the bridge, and passed by a hand- 
some and wide road the pacha's seraglio, which is dis- 
tinguished by a row of well-built projecting windows, 
all closely trellised. There were little children at play in 
the marble court, in the presence of the guard at the 
gate. The windows, which are very high, testify to the 
jealousy with which the Moslem guard those Houris 
whose society is to them the foretaste of their Moham- 
medan paradise. The men in attendance on horses 
were bathing them in the stream, dashing water over 
their haunches, as I passed along the banks of the river, 
and the poor animals appeared to enjoy the process 
much. In a few houses overhanging the river, I could 
distinguish the guests sitting in the open balconies, and 
several horsemen, whom I met taking their evening 
rides, were gaily dressed, for it was the Turkish 
Sabbath. 

When I was looking from my window, after I had got 
home, I saw a party of Bedouins ride into the city from 
the quarter near the gate where Sheik Miguel's abode 
stands. Two of them carried the usual long lances, and 
one wore the scarlet cloak which is the mark of a 
Sheik's rank. The whole of them were handsomely 
attired and armed. They stopped at no great distance, 



220 



SCENE ON THE BANK OF THE RIVER. 



where a lad was waiting for them, and receiving from 
him several pistols, rode on, probably on some ex- 
pedition of danger. A few days before, I had heard, at 
the English Consul's, that Sheik Miguel and his tribe 
were at Hems, a journey of three days off. This native 
chief is the protector of all those who are courageous 
enough to encounter the fatigue, expense, and difficulty 
of the distant journey to Palmyra. The negotiation 
with him, however, is uncertain in its result, and is fre- 
frequently lengthened out to an unreasonable period. 
Nearly three weeks, probably, would elapse before any 
arrangement could be made with him, and it is not 
always certain that the Sheik will undertake the escort 
for which he is solicited. The movements of these Arab 
tribes are most uncertain, but if a trust is once clearly 
undertaken by them, we may have implicit faith in its 
fulfilment. 

I went out to walk quite late in the afternoon, but 
found the sun still too hot even for the pleasing prome- 
nade along the river's bank, which seems by far the 
most cheerful one the environs have to offer. The 
horsemen that gallop along in their gay costumes of 
every colour, would form a delightful study for a painter. 
Strings of camels, followed by white donkeys, there 
cross a small arched bridge. Here is a man in a pink 
dress, and there one in a yellow costume paces deliberately 
along. Women are but seldom allowed on the thorough- 
fares, but they are seen here in clusters, being permitted 
to sit apart in their white coverings and look on. The 



WALLS OF DAMASCUS. 



221 



wide bed of the river, which when full must form, at 
certain seasons, a rapidly rushing stream, is now all 
grass-grown, and frequented by groups of children, who 
are here free from the dust and dangers of the road. 
Close to the larger bridge, near the city walls, is a dome, 
enclosed by walls, belonging to the mosque of the 
Spinning Dervishes, those extraordinary enthusiasts, 
whose grave earnestness and composure, as they wind 
solemnly round, seemingly in a sort of trance, produce 
an impression on those who see them that is not easily 
forgotten. 

The white dresses, very generally worn by the popu- 
lation, enlivened as they usually are with a scarlet scarf 
wound about the waist, and with gay tassels, give a 
very bright and pleasing aspect to the scene. A cemetery 
which I entered seemed to be of great extent. The 
stones of which the tombs were constructed were 
cemented with pink mortar. Some of the graves were 
enclosed by gratings, while others were within structures 
which were entered by a low door with a small orifice. 
On passing out of this closely-packed abode of the 
dead, I came to some corn-fields, and a secluded grass- 
grown road, leading to one of the suburbs of Medan. 
The walls here, as in other places round Damascus, 
have an ancient look. The stones of which they are 
formed are so large that three or four placed above each 
other form a wall above a man's head in height. Look- 
ing through an opening in the clustering trees to which 
I had clambered up, I saw in the centre of an adjoining 



222 



GLIMPSES INTO A BATH, 



field an immense tree with a double trunk, by the aid 
of which a rural dwelling had been constructed, the 
only other materials being some stones with which it 
was fenced round, and a few mats for repose. A woman 
and children were crouching within, the former preparing 
food over a fire of dry leaves and sticks, from which a 
wreath of white smoke curled up into the evening air. 
A man sitting just outside, in the shade of the branches, 
was quietly smoking his tchibouque after the cares and 
labours of the day. Somewhere in an old school-book I 
remember having read a chapter beginning with a de- 
scription of just such a scene as that which was now 
before me. Prompted by curiosity, I approached them, 
and as soon as they saw me a mat was spread, and I 
was invited to sit down with them and share the frugal 
supper of which they were about to partake. The 
simple grace of these people, in the exercise of those 
time-honoured habits of hospitality which they delight 
in exhibiting to the stranger, is always interesting. It 
was too late, or I should willingly have accepted an 
offer so kindly made. 

As I returned through the city, the large bazaar was 
quite deserted, all the booths being closed by rudely- 
formed doors. I sometimes obtained a glimpse into the 
interior of a bath, either through a narrow entrance, or 
through large barred windows. The water is collected 
in a spacious centre tank in a lofty hall, around which 
side baths are arranged also. Figures, covered up in 
white cloaks, were sitting, crouching, or moving about 



COURTS OF EASTERN DWELLINGS. 



223 



inside ; and a few heads might be seen emerging from 
the water in which their owners were sitting, robed, 
most of them talking to each other in a subdued and 
orderly manner. 

A mosque, with a pretty green minaret, was lighted 
up, and several people were at prayer within the enclo- 
sure, while others sat crossdegged engaged in conver- 
sation. Very many small lamps, hanging from the 
arches of the building, spread a subdued light through 
every part of it. In the courts, as is generally the case 
in mosques, were several trees. 

The evening meal was waiting for me by the time I 
reached the hotel. Poor Fermoy could not understand 
my indifference, occupied as my mind was with scenes 
of such novelty and beauty, as to the indulgence of the 
appetite, or even attention to necessary nourishment. 
The courts of these Eastern dwellings certainly have 
a great charm with their fragrant lemon-trees, their 
beautiful shrubs, and their trickling fountains with the 
little fish at the surface. Can anything be more de- 
lightful than to turn in from a crowded bazaar, a dusty 
road, or a narrow street, and to find such quietude, 
coolness, and retirement in the innermost recesses of 
your own abode? — for there is an outer court first, with 
its tree, fountain, and seats, and then an inner one, the 
sanctum reserved for the family or residents. 

Sunday, ith. — I went to the service of morning 
prayers at the English consul's, who officiated himself, as 
no clergyman happened at the time to. be in Damascus. 



224 



WHITSUNDAY. 



The congregation was very small, consisting only of 
two ladies of his family, another lady and gentleman, 
and the young assistant. The service was read in one 
of the beautiful richly inlaid rooms, in which there was 
a great deal of gilding, carving, and painting ; the 
whole of the decorations being executed in a very beau- 
tiful, delicate, and artistical style. The consul's resi- 
dence is one of the most desirable official abodes in the 
world. The spacious court, with its marble paving, its 
magnificent fruit-trees, whose clustered produce appears 
almost too heavy for the branches, its oleanders, its 
sweet-scented heliotropes, its rich-flowered cactus, its 
abundant growth of shrubs arranged overhead to afford 
shade from the burning rays of the sun, and the brilliant 
sky roofing the whole, forms altogether a picture of un- 
rivalled beauty. 

Whitsunday, which I spent here, seemed to answer 
also to some Moslem festival, for it was kept a great 
holiday ; and a gay company, with turbans, vests, and 
waist-scarfs of the most brilliant colours, mounted on 
white donkeys, set off in groups from under the shady 
elm-trees near the hotel. Such gay mingling of colours 
in turbans, and vests, and waist-scarfs seemed the 
mode with the smartest young Damascenes ; and, in 
contrast to the more prevalent costumes of several hues 
combined, dresses of the brightest shade of purple, were 
very distinguishing. The wife of Demetrius, a Greek 
young woman, who appeared occasionally with natural 
flowers round the net covering her hair, seemed to issue 



THE GARIBALDI HYMN. 



225 



forth on some special visit. A very nice horse she 
mounted a VArabe, veiled and covered with the white 
envelope worn by all the women, the steed led by a 
young lad. My room overlooked all going on outside ; 
it was not large, but had five windows, or, I should 
rather say, one side of the room was all window (a 
custom here). Persians cover all, and can only be 
hooked up to a certain distance, which so far limits the 
view that mountain tops, minarets, and lovely stars 
can only be peered at through the bars during the 
sunny hours. Every device to exclude heat and light 
is gratefully put into practice — arrangements which are 
truly acceptable in such a climate, where the rays of 
the sun are at once so ardent and so dazzling. Mean- 
while, I heard the sound of harps in the court below, 
playing — could it be ? — the Garibaldi Hymn. I doubted 
my senses, for what could account for such a cri de guerre 
being heard there ? I accordingly stepped out on to 
the balcony to look and listen, when, lo ! a huge 
" tri-colour " met my eyes, a banner exhibited by the 
Italian Consul, who had a dinner-party, whom he was 
entertaining in the pleasant court below. 



Q 



226 



CHAPTER XIII. 

Departure from Damascus — The Post House — Ascent of Lebanon— -Kas 
Beyrout — Baalbec — Interesting Party of Travellers — Inscriptions in 
the Rock — The Terrace by Moonlight — The Streets of Beyrout — 
The Pine Forest — The Broken Lily — Cholera — Quarantine — An 
Egyptian Lady — Heights of Beit Miry — On Lebanon — Going to 
the Well — Mountain Villages — Beautiful Young Armenian — Turkish 
Ladies — Peculiar Female Dress — A Mountain Family — Preparing 
Dinner — Affrays — Traces of Violence — Coming down from Lebanon* 

TTAVING seen all considered interesting in Damascus, 
I prepared to leave it, not unwillingly, for the air 
was hot and oppressive, and my windows would not open 
as freely as I wished. Next morning, accordingly, at 
five, I set off on horseback, taking my way along the 
river-side, with a pleasant breeze blowing. The road 
lay through rocky defiles, from which, in the distance, 
appeared mountains tipped with snow. I had to pass, 
too, over the wide stony plain of Buaja, a most fatiguing 
part of the journey. The post-house of Sooda, the first 
place where water runs and trees wave, seemed to be 
hours in sight before we reached it. At last, however, 
we came to a stop before it at twelve o'clock, and the 
heat being now considerably diminished, I was very 
glad to sit down to a supper of some roast fowl, tough 
though it was. The master and mistress (French pro- 
vincials) seated themselves, sans ceremonie, at the 



RAS BEYROUT. 



227 



board, and a grand-looking hound moved under the 
table from one to the other, to receive with canine grati- 
tude such fragments as might be offered him from the 
repast. These dumb creatures, always the same in 
their instincts as well as in their intelligence and their 
friendliness, I delight to welcome in these far-off regions, 
finding them quite companionable. 

The road, after leaving Sooda, ascends the Lebanon, 
and soon reaches the summit of the pass, where com- 
mences a beautiful part of the journey. Looking down 
among the recesses of the mountains, you see views of 
the greatest variety, enlivened by the presence of human 
beings, and the scattered villages in which they dwell, 
some of them pleasantly situated on the banks of rivers, 
along which winded the footpaths which led to them. 
The sea bounds the horizon, grandly finishing a land- 
scape of more than ordinary beauty. 

We seemed to be more than three hours descending, 
and the sun was just sinking in great splendour, as, 
after some delay, we entered the garden gate at Eas 
Beyrout, a pleasant resting place, where, after all the 
stir and novelty of Damascus, I was glad to find myself 
resting in peace near the sea-shore. 

A few days after arrived a party whom we had met 
at Damascus, a French family, who had since visited 
Baalbec and the Cedars, an excursion occupying probably 
about a week. They brought some cones and a piece 
of wood from the venerable trees growing in that 
locality, which were to us presents more acceptable 

Q 2 



228 



BEYROUT. 



than if they had been the most finished works of art. 
These young travellers had been in Algeria, and had 
with them a dog of heroic celebrity, bearing, like a 
veteran soldier, the marks of a wound received in 
honourable combat with a foe no less formidable than a 
lion. One of the ladies, the wife of Dr. , of Bey- 
rout, was in the last stage of a decline. She had been 
brought down from the town for change and quiet, and 
I often saw her resting with apparent pleasure under the 
shade of the mulberry-tree, inhaling the breeze, nearly 
the last she was likely to enjoy on earth. She was a 
very interesting young woman, much loved and ad- 
mired in her own circle, and was very meek, subdued, 
calm, even cheerful, in the presence of death. Can 
there be a more touching sight than this farewell to 
sublunary things in the presence and midst of the fierce 
stuggle of surrounding life in which Death summons its 
victims ? 

During my sojourn here, I stayed a few weeks at a 
house which, from its great height, commands a view 
over Lebanon, the bay, and the whole town. Beyrout 
presents a pleasant aspect, the houses being interspersed 
with trees, growing on the gently rising ground on 
which the town is built. Two old and ruined towers 
are seen near the dogana ; and the large building of the 
quarantine, with its unpleasing suggestions, is situated 
near the mouth of the river St. George. Far away 
along the bay is the valley down which rushes the 
Nahr el Kelp, or Dog River, where the scenery is beau- 



THE STREETS AT NIGHT. 



229 



tiful, and the vegetation most luxuriant. Convents, 
too, are perceived here, topping the ledges and height. 

Down this pass came the mighty conquerors of old 
Sennacherib and Eameses II. In the pride of their 
strength, they caused inscriptions to be cut into the 
solid rock, marking the track of their victorious armies. 
As if in rivalry with these memorials [of ancient heroes, 
is one left by Napoleon III. 

The weather became suddenly intensely hot at the 
end of June ; nights and days being equally insupport- 
able. Occasionally a heaven-sent little breeze came, 
and most gratefully was the blessing received. Mrs. 

G and myself spent many pleasant hours at such 

times on a breezy terrace, admiring the view in every 
direction, and talking, as compatriots love to talk in a 
foreign land, over subjects of common interest, our 
English poets and books, times gone by, our early 
friends, my companion's residence in Syria, and her 
remembrances of Athens, where another person told me 
she was so admired for her youthful beauty, that her 
picture was taken as Sappho. Her little boy would 
often drop asleep beside us, and then her tall, hand- 
some Arab servant (so unlike a trim English footman) 
would make his appearance, and carry off the child to 
bed, where he would faithfully watch over him. 

The streets of Beyrout are hideous at night, dogs, 
the pest of Eastern towns, roaming about in every 
direction in search of food, some of them occasionally 
rendered ferocious by hunger. I rode out one day a 



230 



THE BROKEN LILY. 



couple of miles to the Pine Forest, as it is called, though 
it scarcely merits so grand an appellation. The place 
so named is a wood of limited extent, crossed by nume- 
rous paths and roads which are entirely covered with 
fine white sand, and near which are many sand hills. 
I have often ridden slowly among the trees, looking up 
to the charming green canopy above, which opens here 
and there to disclose views of a soft lavender sky. 
The long, slender branches of the trees are frequently 
knotted together, providing resting-places whence the 
agile creatures that abound here may attain the lovely 
tufts on high. You sometimes look through long vistas, 
extending for a considerable distance in a straight line, 
and narrowing far off to a point of light. This wood 
is frequently alive with persons passing through it — 
travelling groups of horsemen, country people with 
baskets, and sometimes women all covered up and 
veiled, as if their Moslem lords were conveying them, 
like goods or furniture, to their summer retreat on 
Lebanon. The scene is so pleasing that it inspires 
fancies of fairy tales, suggests visions of elfs hiding 
behind the trunks of trees, and represents these opening 
vistas as leading to enchanted castles. 

The invalid I left at Eas Beyrout sank rapidly and 
died this morning, one of the latter days of June, when 
all nature seems so radiant. I felt much saddened by 
her departure ; and, short as our acquaintance was, I 
regretted that I had not been permitted to say adieu to 
her. She was carried home, and the next morning she 



THE LAZZARETTO. 



231 



called her family and servants round her bed, and took 
leave of everyone in an affectionate manner. Peace be 
with her gentle spirit ! 

"While passing my time here in this dreamy contem- 
plative sort of existence, I was roused from it by an 
alarm-bell from the real world — the cholera prevalent 
in Alexandria, from which steamers full of fugitives 
began to arrive. The quarantine laws were immediately 
put into force, and passengers were rowed off to the 
guard-house of the pestilence. An officer from the ship 
sat within bars at the Lazzaretto, responding to the in- 
quiries of the friends of those who were thus confined 
pro tempo ; and so great was the influx that the Belle- 
Yue at Eas Beyrout, that pleasant spot, was seized upon 
for a branch quarantine station, soldiers having sur- 
rounded the house. The yellow flag, that dreaded 
signal of plague and death, was hoisted beside the shady 
mulberry-tree, while the spacious and quiet corridor was 
thronged with noisy people, who also crowded the two 
delightful rooms in each wing. In this Pandemonium, 
for such it really seemed, dusky Egyptians, Arabs, and 
Negroes were moving about in all directions. The 
pretty cottage which a lady of my acquaintance had just 
taken and furnished in the most agreeable manner, and 
fitted up to pass a quiet summer, was now made little 
better than a prison to herself. 

Eiding out one evening to the large quarantine house, 
I saw a confused crowd passing in and out of the gates, 
and several people from the town lounging about in 



232 



EGYPTIAN FAMILY. 



dangerous proximity, if the regulations are made to 
prevent contagion. Ladies' parasols were visible on a 
terrace near the wall, and there seemed a careless reck- 
lessness in all comers and goers that to me was inex- 
plicable, considering that many deaths had already 
taken place. Was the conduct of the people explainable 
only by their conviction that it was impossible to resist 
their appointed destiny — the apathy of fatalism ? Near 
the town is a cemetery, quite close to the old part of 
Beyrout, which is inhabited solely by the natives. As 
I entered by the Turkish Bazaar, it was all lighted up, 
and busy with buyers and sellers of eatables. My horse 
slipped at every step on the smooth round stones. 
Hassan's black eyes glittered with animation as, in his 
hope, doubtless, of backsheesh, he assured me, in his 
few words of broken English, that I might trust myself 
with him to the end of the world. 

A few days after the cessation of quarantine people 
came pouring into the hotel, glad to be at liberty. 
Among them were Egyptians, mostly merchants, some 
Greeks, and an exuberant Frenchwoman. An Egyptian 
family had been occupying for two months a wing of 
the terrace where I was located. The lady had two 
black slave girls, who used to sit and fan her for hours 
together, as she sat in a handsome silk dress, adorned 
with a profusion of diamonds. The girls themselves were 
dressed in white muslin sprinkled with spangles. These 
dark maidens seemed to be very fond of their mistress, 
and one of them, though she had served out her term of 



A SCRIPTURAL CUSTOM. 



233 



years, and was consequently free at any moment she 
chose, would not leave her. 

July 1st — Cholera was announced as being in Bey- 
rout. A Mr. and Mrs. S at dinner arranged to 

take a tent and depart at once to the mountains, and 
seeing no just cause or impediment why I should not do 
the same, I proceeded up the heights to Beit Miry, 
where my guide succeeded in getting two large rooms, 
with an open balcony and two arches, in the house of 
the Chief, who offered delicious coffee, fresh milk, and 
stewed apricots, of which I partook with great relish, 
sqatted on mats and cushions in Arab style. The sweet 
young wife of the Chief spread an Arab bed for me, in 
which I lay all night looking at the stars. This pretty 
creature unconsciously illustrated, more than once 
during my stay, a Scriptural custom. When her hus- 
band had eaten his meals, she came, wearing her long 
white veil and her coronet of gold coins which bound 
her glossy black hair, and " poured water on his hands," 
standing before him all the time, bearing a small jar of 
graceful form and with a long neck. 

On Tuesday came a message informing me that my 
friend would arrive. The Chief made me understand in 
how many days by directing my attention so many times 
to the sun's course from its rising to its setting. 
Moukre, a daily envoy to and from Beyrout, brought 
up such stores as were requisite, for there is little to be 
had in this locality, and in a lodging on Lebanon there 
is scarcely any convenience for cooking. Fruit, bread, 



234 



PRIMITIVE SCHOOL. 



milk, and inaccaroni, sugar and tea, are easily pro- 
curable, and the traveller who is not content with such 
simple fare had better not try a sojourn in the moun- 
tains. I was perfectly satisfied with such provender, 
and therefore remained where I was, sitting for hours 
under the great pine-trees beneath the precipice on 
which the house w r as built, and wondering at the huge 
masses of rock, the fall of which had formed the narrow 
defile many thousand feet below. Near the house were 
a few trees, under the shade of which a school was held 
in very primitive style. Juvenile ushers, male and 
female, were placed over still more juvenile pupils, 
administering punishment to them very liberally. In 
the intervals of quiet amid the stunning noise kept up 
by the whole pack, the monotonous murmur of the 
young voices was heard, uttering in a sing-song tone 
the lessons which the master had appointed for the day. 
A door of the room opened on a space of ground 
surrounding this mountain seminary, the windows of 
which are innocent of glass, but had wooden shutters. 
Eroni these windows the spectator had a view of the 
precipices, the villages of Abadee, Buscunta, Aela, 
Bummana, Kurkana, and many others. Djebel towered 
in the distance, surmounting a succession of eminences 
with sharp ridges. A grove of pines below looked as if 
they might be reached in ten minutes, but though an 
agile clamberer, I was more than an hour before I 
found myself under their fragrant shade. The bottom 
of the defile is narrow, and might have been the bed of 



MOUNTAIN VILLAGES. 



235 



a torrent, but T never penetrated to its utmost depths. 
Plantations of mulbery-trees were arranged in terraces 
down the slopes to the first ridge of rocks, and at the 
foot there was a pleasant fountain, whose trickling 
waters made music to the ear. It was a pretty sight, 
at all hours of the day, to see the young women and 
children with earthen jars, carried picturesquely on the 
shoulder, going to the well, disappearing occasionally as 
they went down some rapid descent, and occasionally 
coming more or less into sight again. 

In all these mountain villages, the immediate fore- 
ground of each abode is littered with jars, cooking 
vessels, babies, and rubbish ; and, under the shade of a 
young mulberry-tree, is placed a clay fireplace, where 
the mother, or young wife, may be seen preparing the 
evening meal, her dark hair hanging in plaits at her 
back, each finished with a gold coin, a coronet of the 
same encircling her head, bound generally with a bright- 
coloured kerchief under her muslin veil. A red scarf 
binds the waist ; the neck, and even the bosom, are 
bare, or, at most, covered with the thinnest of trans- 
parent kerchiefs ; a chain, with a small silver box at- 
tached to it, is worn round the neck, and silver bracelets 
round the wrists, red slippers on their bare feet com- 
pleting the costume. One young Armenian was really 
a sweet-looking, pretty creature, with soft dark eyes, 
the lids of which were blackened with a powder when 
she appeared in what was called full dress. Her hands 
and arms were marked in patterns ; and from her neck 



236 



PRINCE MEER SIT. 



was suspended a wide necklace of gold. It was amusing 
to notice her baby, carried astride on her shoulder, 
with what fearless confidence the diminutive being kept 
its seat, even while the mother was engaged in her dif- 
ferent occupations, such as washing, sewing, cooking, &c. 
Occasionally one tumbled from its perch, and then a 
tremendous outcry is made, and the squalls and out- 
cries are incessant. I never, however, had the diver- 
sion of actually witnessing one of these downfalls, which 
rarely, I believe, are attended with any injury. Wide 
Turkish trousers were worn by all the women. The 
Druse females, who wear a sombre dress of blue cloth 
and a long black veil, have mostly flashing, fierce, and 
very dark eyes. 

The brother of the pacha, Prince Meer Sit, was stay- 
ing at Beit Miry ; and a house standing on the summit 
of the eminence, near a few tall firs, was having rooms 
added to it for his accommodation and that of his suite. 
Not knowing the house was already occupied, I went 
with the dragoman to ask if it was to be let, as it was by 
no means a large building, and, I thought, would have 
suited myself and friends better than the Chiefs. His 
highness civilly asked me to go in and see the rooms, 
and also the ladies of his family, who, three in number, 
were sitting on Turkey carpets in one of the apartments. 
They rose politely on my entrance, never looking 
askance at my boots, which bore very evident traces of 
the dusty road, but which I could not, as a Turkish lady 
would have done, shake off on the threshold. The 



LADIES OF HIS FAMILY. 



237 



youngest female, a fair girl, with blue eyes and light 
hair, offered me the flower of a pink hollyhock, which I 
took from her distractedly, my attention being more oc- 
cupied by the lady herself. On smelling it, I could not 
help making a grimace of disgust ; and, in the thought- 
lessness of the moment, returned it to her, an act of 
rudeness which I was happy called forth no expression 
of offence or displeasure, which I own it well merited. 
Indeed, the same young lady received me with great 
sweetness another day, when she and her companions 
met me unexpectedly near their dwelling. I was again 
invited in and requested to seat myself on the carpet. 
Their rooms, into which I was introduced, looked both 
ways, to the sea and to Beyrout ; and, from the door- 
ways and terrace, surrounded by shrubs and pines, 
there was an extensive prospect of the coast all along 
towards Sidon ; while, through the large barred win- 
dows, the eyes ranged over the beautiful mountain 
region. Though the members of the family of a prince, 
there were only four rooms set apart for these ladies as 
their own peculiar abode ; and these rooms seem to have 
been an addition erected specially for their summer 
stay. A family of little kittens, nestled on the cushions 
beside them, appeared to afford them constant amuse- 
ment. 

On Sunday, and other festas, the little chapel near 
had a tolerable congregation. Females in muslin, some- 
times in silk, passed under my balcony, their robes made 
in a fashion which combined the gown and full trouser, 



238 



FAMILY OF NATIVES. 



an arrangement which had a droll enough effect. One 
lady, in blue silk and gauze, with gold sprigs, diamond 
earrings, beautiful gold bracelets, and a clasp in form of 
a quiver, paid me a visit, She was a Syrian dame, of 
family born in the interior of the country, though living 
in Beyrout ; and as she spoke no language but her own, 
we could only communicate by signs, the act of greet- 
ing being expressed by placing the hand on the fore- 
head and breast. I offered her some refreshment, which 
she evidently did not like ; but from courtesy she forced 
herself to eat. 

Monday, 17th. — I walked along the hill to a village 
two miles off. While sitting to rest on the way, a native 
family came up, and invited me to go with them. They 
were all in holiday attire, the mother, an immensely tall 
woman, in white, with a very long white lace veil hang- 
ing down behind, her left breast quite bare, as if ready, 
on the first imperious demand of the little thing carried 
on a boy's back preceding her, to afford the young 
Turk the maternal nourishment to which he was ac- 
customed. They were at present on their way to this 
child's christening or betrothment ; and, later in the 
evening, they were met coming, with drums and sing- 
ing, up the steep, from which, in some places, there 
were views over most terrific precipices. I afterwards 
met the eldest daughter, a very pretty girl, dressed in 
pink, hurrying after her friends. 

In the village is a remarkably beautiful tree with 
two trunks and mingled foliage, sheltering a guard- 



BEIT MIRY. 



239 



house occupied by twenty soldiers, who, as I passed, 
were playing at some game under its shade. The 
palace of the Pasha Prince of the mountain is here also 
standing on terraced ground, with windows trellised like 
those of the seraglio at Damascus. On the side towards 
the sea, this village commands a fine view over strips of 
land that lead down to the sands, which extend along 
the coast to the Dog Eiver. As I passed on one occa- 
sion, after mid-day, the whole hamlet was asleep, with 
the exception of a child or two, who timidly peeped at 
the stranger from behind walls, and immediately lied as 
fast as their little feet could carry them. A Greek 
priest, whom we happened to meet, gave us a courteous 
salutation ; and a young woman in a distant garden, 
who ran after us with a wild cry of astonishment, stared 
fixedly at us till her curiosity was satisfied. As it was 
a fine breezy afternoon, and we enjoyed the privilege 
of resting occasionally, the heat was not much felt, 

At Beit Miry the -Chief is ill of the fever, and his 
young wife devotes herself to him with the greatest 
solicitude. A young girl has been hired as a substi- 
tute to wait on me, in her tattered pink dress. She 
has wild, wondering eyes, many a curious glance of 
which she fixes on me. I have brought the family into 
discipline thus far, that I have succeeded in keeping 
them out of my rooms, and now they halt on the thres- 
hold, or peep round the door, instead of entering and 
squatting down on the mats beside us. 

In this village we have excellent mutton, killed two 



240 



SAVAGE QUARRELING. 



or three times a week. Fresh milk and new-laid eggs 
are also to be procured in abundance, and everything 
else which is wanted must be obtained from Beyrouth 
Unless people bring with them their own servants and 
comforts, they may have the diversion — and no slight 
one it is — of finding by experience that it is almost im- 
possible to make *the natives comprehend any orderly 
way of preparing the food for strangers who come among 
them. Their cooking tactics are very simple. A blaze 
is made with dry branches, the pot is elevated above it, 
and whatever it contains is fiercely boiled, and brought 
in the same vessel to the table, where it is placed on 
the plates. Any passer-by may be summoned to throw 
more wood on the fire, or to stir the pot suspended over 
it. The quarreling amongst these people is sometimes 
very savage. One day a woman bearing a huge stone, 
and making an immense outcry, came down the slope 
behind, expressing, with frantic gestures, her determi- 
nation to pound the head of " Kelah," coins and all, 
into powder, and make her husband " drink it in a 
glass of her blood !" These individuals hid themselves 
in the recesses of their underground habitation while 
the heroine of this adventure prowled round it, raving 
like a fury, and it was with difficulty that she was at 
last coaxed, dragged, and threatened off the premises. 
I know not what the provocation had been which had 
so excited her. Something, I understood, had been 
said about a " sabby," (baby) which, to judge by her 
awful screeches of rage, had highly displeased her. 



THE LEBANON DISTURBANCES. 



241 



Another time a crowd would collect round the 
butcher's, disputing about the carcasses they were buying 
and selling with such animation, that when they hap- 
pened to differ on any point, the immolation of a few 
human victims seemed by no means improbable, es- 
pecially as their dispute was accompanied by the brandish- 
ing of knives. Two or three, sunning themselves on the 
tops of cottages at some distance from each other, would 
occasionally engage in wordy war, expressing their 
hostility by fiendish gesticulations and furious tones. 

It was in this village, as every one remembers, that 
the first horrors of the Lebanon disturbances com- 
menced. The savage fierceness of the race is most re- 
markable ; their rapacity and avidity are such that they 
resemble a band of brigands. Some instances, indeed, 
of the reckless ferocity of these people, who call them- 
selves Christians, came under my own observation, while 
the Druses I happened to meet with were invariably 
civil and respectful. It would be very desirable if the 
Consuls could obtain some authority over these retired 
villagers for the protection of strangers visiting them in * 
the summer months. 

Some cases of fever while I was here ended fatally, 
and there were whispers that cholera had appeared 
when I left. At that breezy height, however, I think 
it could only be where the cottages were crowded to- 
gether, and where cleanliness was not enforced, that the 
pure air could have been tainted. 

Many houses and walls torn down, and lying in ruins, 

R 



242 



CHARMING VIEW. 



still remain as evidence of the dreadful warfare which 
the ferocious hostility of race to race had excited here. 
Far down the valley, near some lofty pines, is a most 
romantically situated abode, consisting of several cham- 
bers, that has been sacked and burned, part of an old 
seat under the trees being all that remains to tell of the 
once peaceful hours that were spent there. It had been 
the Patriarch's residence, I was told. 

The view descending the mountain was enchanting 
— the blue sea and Beyrout at the foot. We seemed to 
arrive at platform after platform, each dotted with a few 
pines. The rocky path down which the poor mules jerk 
painfully, is no less painful to the riders, whose joints 
it almost dislocates by the ever-recurring jolts which 
knock them about. At the intervals when the ground 
is smooth it is delightful to look up or down, to the 
right or to the left, the view being truly charming, 
the land rising in terraces, shaded by mulberry-trees, in 
the midst of which are the cottages of the inhabitants. 
A more beautiful miniature mountain region than this 
cannot be conceived. 

I met several parties slowly toiling up the mountain. 
How the women manage to sit on mule or horseback, 
with their legs bent under them, as when on the floor, 
is marvellous. I saw two or three so disposed, who 
seemed to be quite at their ease. The sandy soil at the 
foot of the eminence, as on descending we drew near to 
Beyrout, was intensely hot, and on approaching the 
suburbs, and entering the town, I found the shops and 



MELANCHOLY SPECTACLE. 



243 



booths closed, and every accustomed haunt deserted. 
This was caused, however, by fear of the dreadful 
disease. I witnessed the melancholy spectacle of a 
cart load of rough coffins, which told but too plainly the 
prevalence of the malady that was carrying off daily so 
many victims. I therefore hurried on to Eas Beyrout, 
to the pretty cottage beside the sea, where Mrs. 

G- 's amiable reception was doubly welcome after a 

sojourn on wild Lebanon ; and that night's sleep, with 
the murmur of waves beneath the windows, was sweet 
indeed after several weeks of constant fatigue, not 
without danger and alarm. 



r 2 



244 



CHAPTEE XIV, 

My Departure — Chasing a Steamer — At Sea — Khodes — Coast Scenery — 
Bay of Smyrna — View of the City — In Quarantine — The English 
Consulate — Quarantine Establishment — Allowed to move on — 
Channel of the Dardanelles — Constantinople — -Hotel d'Angleterre — 
Moonlight Row before the Sultan's Palace — Old Stamboul — The 
Mosque of Sultan Achmet — The Tomb of Sultan Mohammed — Chairs 
for Prayer — Les Isles des Princes — Ruins of the Old Seraglio — 
Scutari — Mosque Aya Sophia. 

MY departure was fixed for the morrow, but I had 
some difficulty in resisting the kind persuasions 
by which I was pressed to lengthen my stay. On 

Sunday afternoon, towards five o'clock, Miss H 

and myself, our numerous packages being all ready, 
issued for the last time from that shady porch through 

which we had so often passed. Mrs. G and her 

little son, with the two maids following, accompanied 
us a few steps, to see us off, as we vainly thought. 
We had made arrangements to leave from the rocks, and 
go at once on board. But, lo ! when we were pre- 
paring to send our luggage on board, a dusky officer 
came to say that it could be taken only from the dogana. 
We lost much time in descanting on this matter, and 
more ere the men could be prevailed upon to hurry on. 
The consequence was that on our arrival at the wharf 



CHASING A STEAMER. 



245 



the steamer was seen in motion. Just at this moment, 
however, the French man-of-war's boat fortunately 
dashed up, and the officers most politely placed it at 
our disposal. Our trunks, however, were still far in the 
distance, and the steamer was rapidly making for the 
open sea. The minutes that elapsed seemed to us hours, 
but at last our baggage made its appearance, the reason 
of its tardiness being that the men were afraid of the 
cholera so near the dogana. When we got properly 
seated in the boat, off we flew, twelve oars doing their 
utmost to overtake the steamer. The chase was most 
exciting, the steersman waving his flag all the time, 
while the steamer's stern relentlessly receded every 
moment, until she was at such a distance, that we feared 
we should have to turn back. In about a quarter or 
half an hour, however, one of the men exclaimed, 
" Elle ne marche plus !" They had seen us, and 
stopped steam. Suffice it to say that, breathless with 
agitation, we at last found ourselves on board, and the 
kind young French sailors seemed really rejoiced to 
have accomplished the feat with such dashing success. 

Life on board a steamer, which, two hours 
before had been a dreaded anticipation, had, in the 
meantime, become the object of our most ardent desires, 
and we felt disposed to accommodate ourselves to it in 
the most gracious manner. We tendered our thanks 
to the captain for his kindness in arresting his vessel's 
progress, to wait for and receive us. Everything on 
board seemed much less nauseous to sight and sense 



246 



RHODES. 



than usual ; and it was not till next day they appeared 
as distasteful as ever. We were the only lady cabin 
passengers, and so had the pretty salons all to ourselves. 
There was a little Smyrna dog on board, the most 
minute specimen of canine beauty I had ever beheld. The 
weather was fine, and we could enjoy ourselves as 
much as we pleased without interruption. I greatly 
missed, notwithstanding, the pleasant and sympathetic 
party of companions with whom I had passed over the 
same track a few months before. 

We reached Cyprus on the second day, and lay some 
hours before it. No one could land, of course, without 
going into quarantine. Boats came out with fresh 
lemons, of a size and flavour never seen or tasted in 
Europe, which the old boatmen dexterously " chucked " 
into expectant hands on board. We made another 
pause in a couple of days at Rhodes, behind which there 
is a superb row of houses on rising ground, embosomed 
among gardens. The numerous windmills were all in 
full whirl along the shore and near the hills. 

The range of fortifications is extensive, and at each 
horn of the harbour there are two round towers, stand- 
ing perhaps on the very points where the famous 
Colossus once stood. The dimensions of the statue, 
however, to have been capable of such a stride, must 
have equalled those of the largest pyramids. There is 
also a smaller harbour, which may have been the one 
into which, in olden times, ships sailed between the 
distended legs of the imposing guardian of the port. 



COAST OF CARAMANIA. 



247 



The coast scenery of the island is fine, and it seems 
mountainous within. Memories crowd upon the mind 
of the voyager as Rhodes recedes from his gaze. The 
noble, chivalrous spirits to whom it was the centre of 
glory, the treasure house of wealth, the stronghold 
of their order, appear again to Iris imagination. How 
many of these bold warriors fell there in the courageous 
and desperate repulse of the infidel, in the manly stand 
made in fulfilment of their vow to defend Christianity, 
and support each other to the last extremity as cham- 
pions of the Faith ! 

The whole coast of Caramania forms a magnificent 
outline of undulating mountains. We passed between 
many islands, threading our way, indeed, amongst them, 
but still the mainland was grander than all. One 
morning I for the first time saw villages on the bosom of 
these rampart hills, four of them connected by a plea- 
sant line of pathway, which suggested pleasant thoughts 
of the sociability of the inhabitants in this remote region, 
where the mutual kindnesses of good neighbourhood are 
practised no less than among ourselves. Once again in 
the gulf and bay of Smyrna, I gazed with as much 
pleasure as if the scene was quite novel to me on that 
beautiful semicircle lined with the town, its houses gay 
with Turkish colour, and interspersed with a few trees 
rising up the slope, the cypresses marking the cemetery 
of the Turks, the old castle walls on the hill above, and 
the handsome Serai close to the sea below. The Euro- 
pean quarter is level, and is easily distinguished by two 



248 



THE BAY OF SMYRNA. 



churches, new and white, with gilded crosses surmount- 
ing the cupolas. One is the French Koman Catholic, 
the other the Armenian church. There, too, was the 
old city castle, of whose battlements I formerly made 
the round, and the delicate minaret, with the blue 
cupola, which commands so charming a view of the city 
and surrounding mountains. We could only prolong 
our gaze, however, for quarantine regulations forbid us 
to set foot on shore. 

A grand-looking Turkish man-of-war, of eighty guns, 
lay in majestic repose in the centre of the bay, her red 
flag, with crescent and star, flying at the stern, and a 
small one, precisely the same in design, fluttering at the 
bow. Light boats were skimming across the bay, but 
keeping aloof from us, our yellow flag and two quaran- 
tine guard-boats preventing all communication either 
with ships or shore. A boat despatched from the 
company with provisions, a privilege which was per- 
mitted only once, was the sole incident to break the 
monotony of our stay. The officers were constantly 
pacing up and down the deck, devoured with ennui. 
Two Turkish women, belonging to the family of a Pacha, 
who were sitting on their cushions within a sort of pen 
on deck, occasionally came out and signed to us, and 
we in return to them, though neither understood what 
the others meant, more than that it was an expression of 
good will. The younger one wore a wrap of light 
chequered green, making robe, trousers, and veil all in 
one. Her fingers were garnished with rings, one a fine 



THE DARDANELLES. 



249 



diamond, prettily set in filigree bars of gold. The 
mother and daughter, for such they were, seemed to be 
on most affectionate terms, talking incessantly to each 
other in low tones. They were accompanied not only 
by a group of children and pretty little slaves, but by a 
youth fully fifteen or sixteen years of age. 

On Saturday afternoon we were in motion again, and, 
after our enforced rest, we felt at once the exhilarating 
effects of the breeze, which blew from the rocky coast to 
our right. On Sunday morning we made a pause off 
Tenedos, a barren-looking island, of which the port only 
is inhabited. Some menacing fortifications look as if 
their possessors were disposed to be offensive on the 
slightest provocation, and as the passage here is but 
narrow, any ship passing through it would run a bad 
chance from the formidable cannon which frown from 
the battlements. 

We were soon after in the Dardanelles, and anchored 
in a spacious sheet of water, bordered by hills of no 
great height. The castles of Europe and Asia, which I 
had pictured as Brobdingnagian fortresses, guarding not 
cities but continents, are, comparatively speaking, 
modest structures, consisting of two or three thick, 
resolute-looking towers, surrounded by crenellated 
walls. The one nearest to which we lay was near a 
small town, Kanak, close to the water. A few minarets 
and trees marked the site of each mosque in the town, 
which was approached by a road over the hill. A line 
of houses, with small covered balconies, or latticed win- 



250 VISIT OF THE QUARANTINE DOCTOR. 

dows, lined the beach and overhung the pleasant sea. 
On the opposite side was the English consulate, and 
the consulates of other nations edged the shore, backed 
also by a small town. The city of the Dardanelles was 
behind the hills, out of sight, a place with 80,000 in- 
habitants. Steamers were constantly passing up and 
down, and many ships were sailing up towards Constan- 
tinople, or coming from it down the Dardanelles, at 
whose mouth we, with several others, were to pass our 
quarantine of ten days. It was only by special favour 
that we were permitted to remain on board, and a plea- 
sant thing it was to be at such perfect rest on the waters, 
defended from the rays of the sun by an awning by day, 
and having a charming moonlight in the evening. 
Though the time was thus rendered very supportable, 
yet most welcome was the intelligence, on the loth of 
August, that we might u move on." The previous 
night had been one of unparalleled beauty, the sea as 
calm as glass, and the ships seeming to sleep on its 
lucid surface. A ship near us hung lights at her mast 
heads, in honour of some festa, in celebration of which 
also, I suppose, guns were fired about eight o'clock. 

We were visited by the quarantine doctor after the 
ten o'clock breakfast. From his boat, he announced to 
the captain, with some formality, that as the malady 
was rife in the city already, and many hundreds were 
dying daily, the authorities kindly permitted any vessels 
to draw near without further delay. A steamer came 
round the point, covered from stem to stern with 



GALLIPOLI. 



251 



human beings, fugitives escaping from the infected 
citadel ; and yet we gladly bore on towards it, after re- 
ceiving the second and third class passengers from their 
" durance vile " in quarantine. The building of the 
quarantine establishment looked new and clean outside, 
and had nothing particularly repulsive in appearance, 
except the enclosing wall. Divisions are kept up 
between the different classes of passengers, as on board 
ship ; but there is no furniture in any of the apart- 
ments, not even mattresses. The people who were 
coming out did not keep us long waiting, for in a few 
minutes four boats full of them made their appearance, 
looking very picturesque with their gay coloured garments. 
The women's faces were closely veiled, and, as before, 
they took up their places within the " pen/' bringing 
with them several utensils of rough pottery, smartened 
up with daubs of gilding and colour, and the cups they 
had purchased in quarantine. They told us they got 
good food, whence I am led to infer that only the first 
class are made to suffer and be fleeced into the bargain. 

The whole of our passengers being now on board, we 
rounded a point edged with a white crenellated battle- 
ment, and held on our course. The coast was a line of 
hilly land, varied on the Asiatic side with openings, 
which showed an interior of mountains, but of no great 
elevation. About four o'clock in the afternoon the 
channel widened, and we had a view of a small town, 
with gardens and country houses on the sloping bank 
on our left. This was Gallipoli, a place of some trade, 



252 



THE EUROPEAN AND ASIATIC SIDES. 



as numerous merchant vessels lay anchored before it. 
The houses, which had all a European look, were dark, 
and had tiled roofs. To us, so long accustomed to see 
dwellings only of white stone, they looked old and 
ugly. They had, however, one compensation in the 
large, long sash-windows, a luxury rare in European 
towns. 

The channel was now wider, and a marked contrast was 
presented by its two sides. The Asiatic was spotted with 
trees, and the heights were wooded ; while a few villages 
enlivened the aspect of the country at intervals. The 
European side looked brown, scorched, and barren ; 
and vessels, either becalmed or at anchor, lay like senti- 
nels in single file under its banks. On the Asiatic side, 
the mountains approached the shore at one particular 
spot in a graceful bend, descending in a gradual slope, 
all covered with wood, till they reached the clear 
pellucid dark blue water, with which their smooth 
verdant slopes presented a marked contrast. The scene 
was enlivened by a flight of sea-birds, which rapidly 
skimmed the surface of the glassy waves ; and far back 
I discerned a road climbing the hill tops. The view 
altogether is most charming to the traveller from the 
burning interior, when, surmounting these elevations, he 
turns round and surveys before him for many a mile 
the expanse of blue sea dotted with shipping, while the 
cool morning or evening breeze bathes his brow. 
The Sea of Marmora expanded as we approached the 
island so named. Its waters have a liquid beauty 



THE GOLDEN HORN. 



253 



peculiar to itself, and at sunset it became literally 
like a sea of gold. 

Sunday, August 6th. — After an uneasy night, during 
which the steamer went at a tremendous pace over the 
swelling though not rough waves of a wide sea, with 
no coast lines visible, I had fallen into a slumber, from 
which I was aroused by a noise on deck. Opening my 
eyes, I saw before me lines of buildings arranged down 
the declivity which descended to the shore, close to 
which we were running. A beautiful white mosque, 
with four minarets, particularly arrested my attention. 
The numerous steamers and ships around showed 
that we were now in the Golden Horn. After coffee on 
deck, during which we turned our admiring gaze in 
every direction, a boat took us on shore to the Dogana, 
or Custom House. We followed our porters up the 
steep ascent of the street of Pera, in which the European 
shops and houses were liberally furnished with sash win- 
dows, to the Hotel d'Angleterre, a clean, well-appointed 
house, but with very few rooms commanding any view 
at all, the managing woman of which appeared to have 
a most vinegar aspect, while the master was a pompous 
old fellow. As this place did not seem likely to suit us, 
we went next to the Hotel d' Orient, a large house, in 
an airy situation, with chambres meublees unfortunately 
overlooking the cemetery, a view which we did not 
consider desirable. We finally installed ourselves in a 
branch establishment of the Hotel de Pera, occupying 
two nice little rooms, with a charming view of one of 



254 



PALACE OF THE SULTAX. 



the sultan's palaces (now called the Burnt Palace) across 
the harbour, all imbedded in trees, beyond which appeared 
the open sea and "les Isles des Princes." The lofty gates 
of a handsome serai, in a spacious court -yard, faced the 
house, leaving the view unimpeded, and allowing of the 
enjoyment of plenty of air and sunshine. 

Towards sunset, having engaged a valet de place, we 
went out and visited, first of all a garden in the town, 
where, under acacia trees, people were sitting, in which 
one turn we found was enough. Thence we passed along 
a road for some distance, till we came to an open ter- 
race commanding a beautiful prospect over the Golden 
Horn, Scutari, &c, with the windows of the houses 
glowing in the sunset like burnished gold. Descending 
then to the palace of the Sultan beneath, arranged along 
the edge of the water, our attention was first attracted 
by the entrance gates at each end, of white marble, with 
doors of worked iron, beautifully gilded, and with senti- 
nels on each side in little semi-tents fringed with gay 
colours. 

TVe stepped into a caique and coursed along before this 
elegant abode, all so white and silent, with its large 
open windows, porticoes, and galleries with light pillars. 
Some of the apartments were closed with a sort of 
persiani, the size of the room, and others opened at 
once on a marble terrace, with a railing or balustrade, 
only a few shrubs intervening between them. Some of 
the terraces with marble steps descended even to the 
water, in which was reflected the light of lamps sus- 



MOSQUE OF SULTAN ACHMET. 



255 



pended from the gilded railings, a sight which altogether 
had a most fairy-like effect. I thought of Aladdin's 
palace, of many a poetical description of Eastern 
splendour, and of the charm of Oriental life, which this 
beautiful palace certainly realized to us as in the moon- 
light we silently skimmed before it over the glittering 
and gently rippling waves. After we had satisfied our- 
selves with a sufficient sight of the dazzling beauties of 
the Sultan's palace, we returned through the dark ceme- 
tery, and by a thick plantation of cypresses edging the 
eminence on which Pera stands. 

August 7th. — We set off at nine, crossed the " bridge 
of boats " spanning the harbour, and ascended wearily 
to the mosque of St. Sophia. After some demur about our 
boots and francs, we went on to the ruins of the old 
palace of Constantine, near which we looked with inte- 
rest on an immense tree, thirty-three metres round, and 
many hundred years old. A gateway was pointed out 
to us — no very pleasing sight — where the heads of re- 
fractory Pachas used to figure as decorations. The 
mosque of Sultan Achmet, which we also visited, is 
spacious, with a central dome, and several smaller ones, 
besides four half domes. Four enormous pillars support 
each of the domes, and beneath them are clusters of 
small lamps hanging from the roof. This mosque is 
surrounded by a court and corridor not unlike cloisters, 
of which the domes form the roof. Six beautiful and 
lofty minarets rise high above it, and outside is an 
obelisk with gilded figures, the base representing the 



256 



TOMB OF SULTAN MAHMOUD. 



Emperor Theodosius surrounded by his officers and 
court, with an inscription in Greek below. The obelisk 
rests on four pieces of malachite. Rising from an 
enclosed cavity I observed a twisted pillar of malachite, 
representing serpents with their heads broken off, while 
beyond is a pillar of rough stones, once covered with 
bronze and gilding. The shutters of the windows, too, 
we observed, were all ornamented with mother-of-pearl. 

After this we went through some ugly lanes to a hole 
in the earth, into which we poked, and descending some 
twenty steps, saw a great number of columns, several 
hundred perhaps. This cavity we were informed was 
anciently a cistern, and was dark, damp, and horrible, 
but really a wonderful sight. In another lugubrious 
place to which we went were about twenty-eight columns, 
in the same underground position, but built in lines. 
Men were here winding silk on wheels, and the sun and 
light strove in vain to get down to them. 

Emerging from these dismal precincts, our course lay 
in the vicinity of a gilded octagon building, the tomb of 
Sultan Mahmoud, which we desired to see. We en- 
tered accordingly by a quiet garden in which flowers 
were blooming in abundance, and over the marble 
portico of which climbed rare creeping plants. Ascend- 
ing the steps that led to this building, we passed along 
a matted passage to the door of the chamber of the 
tomb, before which, as well as in the windows, were 
curtains of black satin, edged and embroidered with 
silver. The tomb was surrounded completely by a 



BEAUTIFUL COPY OF THE KORAN. 



257 



silver railing, and in many parts of the interior the walls 
were hung with rich silk, embroidered with silver. The 
Sultan's fez, decorated with a heron's feather, and with 
a diamond aigrette, surmounts the coffin. 

Beside the tomb of Mahmoud are six others of smaller 
dimensions and less imposing height, those, namely, of 
his Sultana, his mother, and his children, the walls of 
which are all covered with shawls of value. Eound 
them are railings made of some sparkling wood. Fixed 
up against the walls, too, are five boxes of silver and 
of mother-of-pearl, containing precious books, illumined 
and gilded, in which are the prayers used by the family 
when they visit the tomb. The chairs for prayer, or 
stools, of which there were more than a dozen, are ob- 
jects of considerable curiosity. One of them is made 
entirely of silver, with ornaments of mother-of-pearl. 
An old venerable-looking man was at one in prayer. 
On one, which like the others was of silver, was the 
Koran, commencing, where our books end, with two 
illumined and coloured leaves, and adorned with much 
gilding and elegant tracery throughout, among which 
that of some small bouquets of flowers was particularly 
beautiful. Every page was marked by some new 
beauty, and I think we were told some of it was done 
by the Sultan's own hand. 

We crossed the harbour on our return home in a 
caique, and, after toiling up the long steep, got to our 
rooms fatigued beyond description. While we were 
reposing ourselves a packet of Galignanis was brought 

s 



258 



SCUTARI. 



to us from M. Hanson's, which under the circumstances 
we read with great interest. 

Tuesday 8th.— We set off at nine from the bridge of 
boats for " Les Isles des Princes/ 7 an hour and a half's 
distance by steamer, passing the beautiful site of the old 
Seraglio, which was destroyed by fire two or three years 
since. Lovely shrubs and trees were seen over the 
surrounding wall, growing up the rising ground, and 
out of them peeped the towers and wings of the white 
and trellised abode, now, alas ! in ruins. The apart- 
ments, where once dwelt in peace and luxury many 
generations of Moslem royalty, were empty, and still 
showed traces of the fire that destroyed them. The 
secret recesses of those mansions of a tyranny often 
mysterious and cruel, are now laid bare ; but the ruins 
only show the extreme beauty of a residence which 
nature and art combined to adorn. 

On the other side lay Scutari, with its immense 
caserne, spacious hospital, and the cemetery, sadly sug- 
gesting so many scenes of British suffering and sacrifice, 
with which we were all but too well made familiar by 
report. Beyond Scutari, after a curve in the coast that 
would form a pleasant drive, is a green sward, adorned 
here and there with groups of trees, which render it very 
agreeable as a place of repose and enjoyment. Looking 
towards the Golden Horn, we beheld the city rich in 
palaces, domes, and minarets ; or, embracing a wider 
view seawards, we looked upon a sea dotted with some 
islands. The isle at which we touched rises two or 



MOSQUE ALI SOPHIA. 



259 



three hundred feet out of the water, and has two emi- 
nences, one covered with wood, a road winding up be- 
tween them. It is a flourishing sea-bathing place, with 
pretty residences built in the lightest and prettiest style, 
and is chiefly frequented by the Greeks of Constanti- 
nople. An elegant hotel stands about half-way up the 
ascent, looking down upon a nice flower-garden from 
its terrace. In some locandas close to the sea, accom- 
modation was offered us for eight francs per diem. We 
returned about five o'clock. 

The 9th also was devoted to an examination of places 
of interest in the city. We made our way, in the first 
place, to the Mosque Ali Sophia, a fatiguing tramp from 
the top of Pera, all down the steep to the bridge, and 
up another steep again to the mosque on the other side. 
There was much whispering and waiting ere we were 
admitted into the sacred pile ; but once entered, all our 
previous irritation speedily disappeared, and was trans- 
formed into admiration. We looked up to a lofty and 
immense dome, in mosaics of green and gold stripes, which 
were bordered with Turkish sentences, one of them signi- 
fying, " God is the light of the world." Another half- 
dome rose over what, in a Christian church, would have 
been the altar, at the east end ; and there was another 
corresponding to it at the west end. The north and 
south sides were not arched, but pierced with windows 
in two rows, finishing in seven elegant small arches, 
supported by green marble pillars, with most exquisite 
capitals of white marble in delicate open-work tracery. 

s 2 



260 



INTERIOR OF THE MOSQUE. 



Over these was a border in mother-of-pearl and tortoise- 
shell. A gallery receded behind all this, supported by 
an inner row of columns beneath the wall. It finished 
in five arches, supported in the same way with green 
marble pillars. The spaces between the cardinal points 
of the building were semi-circles, with pillars and arches, 
bordered with ornaments of similar workmanship — four 
in the upper gallery, two in the lower. Eight shields, 
of immense size, of a bright green colour, and adorned 
with characters of gold, were suspended at the point 
where the cupola finished. Over the east end were 
three, or five, painted windows ; and high up a face of 
the Saviour could be made out in a cloud of gold 
mosaic, the flowing hair and the aureole surrounding the 
head. On the left of the spectator, looking towards the 
east end, was a gilded and raised gallery, in an octagon 
form, where the Sultan sits ; and on the right a narrow 
staircase, terminating in a sort of seat, or pulpit, from 
which sermons are delivered. This pulpit was shaded 
by a gilded extinguisher, that looked ready to drop down 
over any individual of sufficiently slender proportions who 
had ascended the stairs and turned round into the 
narrow seat. The cupola was supported by four massive 
pieces of masonry, covered with marble ; and the walls 
were covered with two holy carpets from Mecca, very 
tarnished and old, but of the richest and most elaborate 
workmanship. Clusters of lamps were suspended from 
the very dome, and others ran along the edge of the 
galleries. There was one chamber filled with old boxes, 



BIGOTED MOHAMMEDANS. 



261 



the property of people going away to distant countries, 
it being usual for them to send to the mosque what they 
value most, that it may be safe under the keeping of Allah. 
The porches of this immense structure are grand, of old 
Byzantine architecture, and lead to inner courts and 
fountains. The people who happened to be in the 
mosque were much displeased by our presence, and 
were in a great fidget to get us out. They are always 
very anxious to be rid of the inquisitive Frank peep- 
ing here and there, and grudge him a sight of the 
stupendous fabric constructed, as is well known, for 
Christian worship, and surrendered to the Moslem only 
after a most bloody and terrible contest. The dead 
are said to have been raised in heaps and used as ram- 
parts in resisting the spoiler ; and the impression of a 
large and bloodstained hand, said to be that of the con- 
quering sultan, is pointed out high up on one of 
the walls near the porch, through which he leaped in on 
horseback. 



262 



CHAPTER XV. 

Scutari — Howling Dervishes — Curious Ceremony — The " Furore " of 
Devotion — Tradition of the Sultan Mahmoud — Hospital of Scutari 
—Romantic Story of a Sultan's Daughter — Seeing the Sultan- 
Costume of the Spahis — The Spinning Dervishes — Religious Ballet 
in their Mosk — Turkish Women — Sad Mortality — The English 
Church — The English Embassy — Staying at Therapia — The Sultan's 
Kiosks — The Bosphorus — The Castles of Europe and Asia — Village 
of Buyukdere — European and Asiatic sides of the Bosphorus — 
Towers of Roumeli Mssar — Kandili — Constantinople — Jangin War 
— The Sultan's Friday Progress — Handsome Turks — Adieu to Con- 
stantinople. 

ON the tenth, after looking over the beautiful things 
in the bazaar, we took steamer to Scutari (a 
quarter of an hour crossing), a populous suburb on the 
Asiatic side, having many ancient mosques. We passed 
close under the Turkish quarter of the city, in which 
there were trees round every house. Many red dwel- 
lings can be seen. Constantinople, with its white 
mosques, each adorned with four or six minarets, the 
dark clusters of cypresses here and there, the curving 
outline of palaces and buildings close to the gleaming 
water, and the unparalleled beauty of its position, forms 
one of the loveliest pictures that can be conceived. The 
numerous villages, too, within from half an hour to two 
hours' distance down the sides of the Bosphorus, in- 



HOWLING DERVISHES. 



2G3 



crease that admiration which Constantinople shares 
with Naples, which, indeed, I think it far exceeds in 
beauty. 

One day we landed and proceeded to a mosque to see 
and hear the "howling dervishes." In the interior of 
the building a line of men were seated on the floor, and 
at the opposite end was the Fakir, a mild-looking man 
in a dark mantle and green turban, who was repeating 
prayers, by which, as it seemed, their movements were 
regulated. A low railing ran round the mosque, separat- 
ing those who took an active part in the ceremonies 
from the general assembly. Our careful old Francesco 
succeeded in placing us safely under a gallery close to the 
entrance and near the Fakir, before whom the men were 
swinging to and fro, keeping time, their movement be- 
coming gradually more energetic. After a while they 
all rose and bowed, throwing the body backwards and 
forwards with what seemed to us most dislocating jerks, 
increasing the rapidity of their movements at certain 
given signals, always jerking in time, and with a loud 
murmuring noise. It was, on the whole, rather a painful 
sight. Small children were brought in, laid in rows on 
their faces before the carpet, on white mats, and the 
Fakir carefully put his foot on their little rumps 
and walked over them. Several grown-up people 
extended themselves in the same way, some of whom 
were first touched on the head. The performers in 
this strange ceremony were rewarded in like man- 
ner for their superhuman exertions. Some black men 



264 



CEMETERY AT SCUTARI. 



amongst them, who apparently enjoyed the bending 
and rocking, did their parts remarkably well, and 
with peculiar gusto, continuing for two hours in 
these frantic movements. We saw hanging up certain 
metal balls, w T ith pointed little spikes, by means of 
which they sometimes draw blood, making a great out- 
cry ; but their furore of devotion had been suppressed 
by order during the malady. Outside were large jugs 
of some beverage, of which each in passing out took a 
moderate draught. 

After this we went on past a cemetery on a rising 
ground, in the middle of which the horse of Sultan 
Mahmoud lies interred between four high cypresses. 
Eeport says that this Sultan had a Christian mistress, 
and that when she died he had this horse killed, 
and her body enclosed in the carcase, that she 
might lie amongst the faithful in a spot which he could 
visit. Arriving where the landscape opened fully to 
view, nothing could be more lovely. " Les Isles des 
Princes " were seen in the distance, and also some 
"beautiful and fertile country. Beyond Scutari, inland, 
were the sea and the gleaming city ; while before us 
were the hospital of Scutari and the cemetery where so 
manv of our brave countrymen suffered, died, and were 
laid to rest. The house where Miss Nightingale and 
the ladies resided is at some little distance. We entered 
the cemetery and sat down near the column erected in 
memory of those lying around. Figures of life-size 
stand at each corner of the pedestal, some with wings, 



TURKISH TRADITION. 



265 



bending in attitudes of sorrow. The tablets in the 
ground are not very numerous, mostly of young officers 
of three or four-and-twenty. One, erected in memory of 
two Nevilles, brothers, was a sister's tribute to their 
names; on others a mother deplores her son, and 
brother officers their comrade— all sad enough in scenes 
so beautiful, where sun, sea, and sky seem to breathe 
the very essence of life— cut off in the pride of their 
youth and strength in a cruel warfare to support the 
power of Islam. 

We left the cemetery by a path winding along the 
eminence that overlooked the sea, and, impressed with 
melancholy thoughts, arrived at a small pier where 
Turkish invalid soldiers were sauntering up and down 
to take the evening air. Here we stepped into a caique 
and floated pensively away to the city, the breeze, how- 
ever, soon reviving our spirits. We passed close to a 
little tower on a rock, in connection with which is told 
a romantic story of a Sultan's daughter who was 
sent there to avoid a fate which had been prophe- 
sied. The fame of her beauty having reached an 
inflammable Persian prince, he is said to have come row- 
ing under her window in the tower, and to have sent up, 
by some of those means which passion can contrive, ex- 
quisite flowers to express his admiration and love. By an 
unfortunate mischance a poisonous asp, which was inadver- 
tently sent up with them, bit the beautiful maiden. When 
the gallant prince heard of this melancholy event he at 
- once obtained admittance, and rushing to the chamber 



266 



THE SULTAN. 



where the " ladye, beautiful exceedingly/' lay dying, 
sucked the poison from the wound, an act of heroic 
devotion by which her life was saved. The good Sultan, 
in gratitude, bestowed her hand on the ardent lover ; 
and the lonely tower was thenceforth deserted, and made 
a lighthouse to warn the mariner and guide him to 
port. The streets where we landed at this point were 
dark and gloomy. It was with some difficulty we 
groped our way into one of the principal thoroughfares, 
and slowly ascended the long precipitous road to our 
abode. 

Friday. — This day the Sultan, who has been absent 
at one of his palaces on the hills, at some distance in the 
country, comes in to pray at one of the mosques — a 
weekly custom, by which his people have frequent 
opportunities of seeing him. Fortunately for us the 
mosque chosen was the one close to the handsome and 
regal residence which lies so luxuriously along the edge 
of the sea, whose lamps at night make so glittering an 
appearance. At the gateways are telescope-shaped 
towers, profusely decorated, the gilded gates sup- 
ported by two pillars on each side. As the building can 
be but partially seen from the back, and faces the 
sea, those within can remain as long as they please in 
the privacy which they naturally desire in the perform- 
ance of their religious duties. 

Exactly at twelve o'clock the Sultan made his appear- 
ance ; a plain, unpretending-looking man, more like a 
London banker than a luxurious Turk, but with a stern 



COSTUME OF THE SPAMS. 



267 



expression of countenance. He wore a dark uniform, in 
the European style, with a fez, and rode on horseback, 
while his grand officers surrounded him on foot. They 
had all come mounted, but had descended on reaching 
the vicinity of the mosque. Two horses of great beauty, 
handsomely caparisoned, were led for the Sultan, 
and three carriages, for a drive or ride, if he should 
desire either after prayers. The costumes of the spahis 
by whom he was attended were very striking, four of 
them having full white skirts in the Grecian style, and 
white kerchiefs over the head, while others wore a scarlet 
and gold uniform. The head of the police, a tall, com- 
posed-looking man, in blue and silver, wearing spec- 
tacles, kept all in order within the enclosure. This 
important official politely but firmly requested us to 
move to a spot where the Sultan should not have to 
pass us directly on his way to prayer. Eows of soldiers 
were stationed here and there, and when the Sultan had 
gone into the mosque they raised a cry which we were 
told signified " Allah preserve the Sultan Naziz !" 
To us it sounded more like a murmuring wind than 
people's voices. 

Three dog-carts which arrived before the Sultan made 
his exit contained some black leather portmanteaus, 
ornamented with silver, in which were a change of 
raiment, some prepared repast, his cushions, his prayer- 
carpet, &c. As he generally remained an hour at 
prayer, and Francesco assured us there was not much 
more to see, we returned to luncheon, after which, at 



268 



SPINNING DERVISHES. 



two o'clock, we set off to see the "spinning dervishes." 
Their mosque, which is off the Eue de Pera, commands 
a view, from the windows behind, over the harbour. 
The building is an octagon in shape, and consists of 
two stories. On the first floor, w r hich is formed of 
smooth oaken boards, we beheld nine men and two boys 
dressed in white, with flower-pot-shaped hats, spinning 
round at the moment when we entered. Their arms 
were extended, and one palm was open, " to receive the 
gifts of Heaven," while the other was reversed, "to reject 
or drop the things of Earth." The full petticoats were 
flying out equally all round, having a rim of lead inside 
to keep them in that position. The feet of the men 
and boys were bare, and in stepping one was advanced 
and kept a little over the other, so that their progress was 
very slow, though regular, till they got round the circle. 
All looked grave, as if in a kind of trance ; and 
their movements were by no means ungraceful. A low, 
lulling kind of music with flutes, marking the time, ac- 
companied their movements ; and one felt disposed to 
go off in a mesmeric sleep while looking at them. After 
half an hour of this ceremony, they suddenly stopped, 
and sank down, while a man went round with mantles, 
one of which he disposed on the shoulders of each indivi- 
dual forming the half-circle, everyone, after a moment's 
pause, gathering it round him and then remaining motion- 
less. On leaving this wonderful ballet, we stepped over a 
little garden, where some half dozen women, with pretty 
dark eyes, were sitting on their carpets. They had the 



THERAPIA. 



260 



usual muslin veils, and the enveloping robe worn 
by two of them was of bright colours, one yellow 
and one blue. These mantles, which are usually 
of fine stuff, look particularly neat in the streets, and 
form a very suitable costume for them, never seem- 
ing to get dirty or old. The women appeared pleased 
to see us ; and I made my white umbrella spin to 
amuse the children, but it would not keep up so well as 
the dervishes did. 

We met several funerals in returning this afternoon. 
An old man at a druggist's shop seemed to exult in 
the sad mortality, as, after reading out the statement 
of the numbers dying daily, his expression apparently 
was one of triumph at the inroads of the malady. I am 
quite sure he considered our staying at Stamboul at such 
a time a sort of insanity, which ought to have been looked 
into by the proper authorities. 

On Sunday we went to the English church, a neat 
building in the garden of the ambassador's house, where 
there were about fifty people, and where the singing, to 
the music of an harmonium, was very good. Next day 
we went to stay at Therapia, a village two hours distance 
by steamer along the Bosphorus, where there are many 
good houses built in the European style, but with 
Oriental coolness, the stairs and halls being of marble. 
The embassy is an old-fashioned wooden building. 
The English consuls and some other families have resi- 
dences here during the summer. There is also a French 
park and an English garden, both very charming loiter- 



270 



THE SULTAN'S KIOSKS. 



ing places, with abundant foliage. The vegetation 
seemed luxuriant in every direction. On one side was 
a small bay, round which were several dwellings of 
Greek families, and on the margin of the smooth sea 
a few scattered trees ; while on the rising ground were 
the remains of terraced gardens and pleasure-grounds, 
which we were told had belonged to those involved in 
the old Revolution more than thirty years ago. The 
Sultan, at that time, we were informed, had peremp- 
torily disposed of those who had thus risen against him, 
by the summary process of beheading them and ravaging 
their lands. The present sultan is building a palace at 
the foot of the wooded hill. He has many of these 
kiosks along the sides of the Bosphorus, where he can 
spend a few days, or hours, at pleasure. Eeport says 
that he is too fond of erecting palaces, regardless of 
cost, perhaps prompted by a tradition to the effect that 
a sultan will never die while he has one in process 
of building. Our rooms, as I have remarked, were de- 
lightful, overhanging the sea. One of my windows 
looked over the miniature bay. An old red house, 
built of wood, situated just opposite, contrasted with a 
new maison en pierre, which had lovely gardens, adorned 
with a perfect galaxy of flowers. On the opposite coast 
of the Bosphorus stood a magnificent palace, raised on 
terraces ; and beyond it was a fine eminence, crowned 
with a circlet of trees, called the Giant's Mound. The 
grassy verdure which we saw on every side was 
very pleasant to the eye ; and the scene was enlivened 



RETURN TO THERAPIA. 



271 



by ships and steamers constantly passing to and fro 
from the mouth of the Black Sea. A row of twenty 
minutes took us to Buyukdere, on the same side of the 
Bosphorus, a place of some extent and pretension, 
having a promenade of full half a mile long, and many 
very elegant houses, with an hotel (the Belle Yue) incon- 
veniently situated on a rough steep behind them. The 
hotel we occupy at Therapia has every convenience and 
requisite accommodation, but is far too dear ; and, of 
course, being kept by an Englishwoman, there is no com- 
pany at the table d'hote but that of doctors, who embellish 
the repast with reports of cholera cases. 

I went up one morning by early steamer to the city. 
There is not only the disadvantage of a crowd on these 
vessels, but the enjoyment of the sweet scenes of the 
romantic Bosphorus is spoiled by men puffing tobacco 
smoke on every side. On our course we passed the Sul- 
tan's palaces and kiosks, and many pleasant woody villages, 
besides occasional dwellings here and there isolated in 
their own loveliness. The Castles of Europe and Asia 
confront each other, and give some character of grandeur 
to the scene, for generally it is of a placid sweetness. 
The crowded state of the bridge of boats on our arrival 
was anything but pleasant, and the heat was intolerable. 
The freshness on our return to Therapia, however, was 
very reviving, and we sat the whole evening, on reach- 
ing the hotel, in our balconies, gladly inhaling the breeze 
that blew from the inlet to the Black Sea. 

We spent nearly a fortnight at this place. The 



272 THE BOSPHORUS. 

evening before leaving we went up the hill behind it, 
and after passing the houses, two or three of which are 
tastefully decorated with gardens and summer-houses 
from which festoons of beautiful climbing plants hang, 
we turned to the right, over some grassy slopes, and 
came suddenly in view of the water, smooth as glass. 
At the mouth of the Bosphorus, where a few tall-masted 
ships were lying, the village of Buyukdere, with its long 
line of pretty houses, was reflected in the quiet waters, 
and light skiffs were constantly flitting over the beautiful 
glassy surface of the sea between Therapia and its 
neighbour village. I could even see the Black Sea 
over the opposite hills, on which flocks of sheep and 
goats were browsing, looking about as if they too en- 
joyed the sunset hour. To return, after this reviving 
sight, to the dulness of a table d'hote dinner, made abso- 
lutely ghostly by seats without guests and plates un- 
filled, was damping enough. Early morning, however, 
again saw us pleasantly seated in a caique, rowing up the 
Bosphorus to Constantinople once more, a much more 
pleasant way of going up than that by the steamer, and we 
soon forgot the annoyance of an overcharged bill which 
had embittered our parting moments. The situation of 
the Hotel d'Angleterre was, indeed, delightful. The 
proprietors of that establishment, however, were not suf- 
ficiently empresse to please my friend, rather an invalid, 
who required to change her large room for a smaller one, 
about which there was some difficulty, though the house 
was almost entirely empty. We used occasionally to 



ROUMELI HISSAR. 



273 



amuse ourselves with the appearance of business that 
was assumed before us, trays being carried about, and 
the doors of empty rooms opened and shut. 

We set off a little after seven, taking advantage of 
the current. The boatman kept out in the centre, 
rather inclining, however, to the Asiatic side, so that we 
had the pleasure of contrasting it with the European. 
The houses on the Asiatic side are generally of a better 
order, more spacious and Oriental-looking, adorned with 
latticed windows, and covered with trellis work, indi- 
cating the part of them set apart for the fair recluses so 
jealously hidden from sight by the higher classes of 
Mohammedans. The variety and luxuriance of the trees, 
and their spreading foliage, form one great beauty of 
this delightful winding channel, which may be between 
two and three miles wide in some parts, perhaps 
more. 

The two massive towers of Eoumeli Hissar soon came 
into view, connected by a battlement with smaller 
towers, and enclosing a considerable space on the slope 
of the hill, with several wooden houses within it. Out- 
side, next the water, were some young trees, and two or 
three pale green tents, while near the towers, close to 
the shore, was a white ghost-like little cemetery, the 
upright stones of which looked in the moonlight like so 
many spirits just risen up, as the ghost in "Hamlet" 
in the theatrical representation of that play. The 
Sultan's kiosk at Aqua Dolce is a beautiful structure, 
and there is a charming promenade between Anadol 

T 



274 



ONDILL 



Hissar (the corresponding fortress to Koumeli Hissar) 
and Kandili on the Asiatic side, which looked delicately 
beautiful in the soft sunshine of evening. The little 
mosque, too, and its minaret rising out of the trees be- 
hind, had quite a fairy-like aspect. We could not see 
the waters, which are those of a small stream, whose 
shady banks are frequented by numbers on Friday, when 
the Turkish promenaders form most picturesque groups, 
among whom are veiled women and children at play 
around them under the trees. 

The houses of Kandili, on the slope of a hill, form 
a charming, retired, and shady village, where some 
English residents of Constantinople remain for the 
summer. Then there is Chingalku and Casjunjuk, the 
Sultan Mahmoud's palace of Teherazan, built in 1836, 
and last of all Scutari. Opposite Kandili, on the Euro- 
pean side, are Bebek, Arnautkoi, Potiku, and Pera. A 
cloud of smoke hung over the city as we drew near, but 
the Sultan's palace looked dazzling in its pure white 
beauty ; yet, alas ! at that very moment one of the 
beautiful inmates was writhing in the first attacks of the 
malady which carried her off in a few hours. 

I attended Sunday service in the English church, 
after the enjoyment of a tranquil half hour before 
it, pacing under the trees of the garden, where, 
also, on another afternoon I wandered, by per- 
mission, for a quiet saunter among the rose-trees, whose 
fragrance was most grateful at a time when in the 
streets a stranger was afraid of inhaling the pestilential 



VIEW FROM THE GARDEN. 



275 



breath of cholera. Near a garden-seat I remarked a 
little stone enclosed within a railing, and marked 
" Filly/' some favourite's place of rest, doubtless, where 
it used to sit beside its master. Ah ! the sympathy and 
companionship of these dumb creatures makes many a 
human being experience no small degree of comfort in 
the assurance of their unselfish attachment. 

The view from the garden is interesting. Old Stam- 
boul and its mosques are seen across part of the 
Golden Horn, where once, in the spacious hippodrome, 
the Greek emperors appeared in all the magnificence of 
their imperial pomp. The distant Aqua Dolce of Europe 
is the winter public promenade, as that on the Asiatic 
side of the Bosphorus is the summer one. Down the 
slope of one of the declivities that descend into the 
valley, is an old cemetery, through which, amid its 
melancholy cypresses and monumental stones, are path- 
ways in every direction. These people seem to have 
none of the feelings regarding the resting-place of the 
dead prevalent in the West. Of an evening you may 
see chairs and tables without number ranged before an 
hotel, or close by a terrace of handsome houses, looking 
upon this city of the dead, in the midst of which is heard 
the voice of music and song. I once saw a little cafe 
established amongst the memorials of the departed, and 
in it men were sitting enjoying the refreshment laid 
before them. 

The tower of Galata resembles one of those huge 
round structures which are sometimes found in old 

t 2 



276 



" JANGIN WAR." 



Bibles, as representations of the Tower of Babel. Over 
the square green gate by which it is entered is an in- 
scription in gold letters, and it is enclosed within a 
miniature garden. This place is inhabited by soldiers, 
whose duty it is to keep a look-out over the city for 
any fires that may occur. They hoist a flag by day, 
and show a signal light by night, to give the alarm when 
the premonitory signs of a conflagration appear. Two 
have taken place this week, one attended with dreadful 
destruction of property. From my chamber window I 
beheld the volume of flame, the height and length of 
which was awful to contemplate. I had been awakened 
by a roaring sound, like that of a distant cataract, and 
by the dreadful call of " Jangin war !" (Fire !) Turkish 
words, whose terrible import I had learned long before. 
Half-naked men were rushing along with horrid yells, 
bearing fire-engines, little machines carried on poles, 
followed by soldiers with staves and picks, to pull down 
and demolish the houses. Looking at the conflagration, 
however, in its fierceness and fury, it seemed as if no 
human effort could check the progress of that raging 
mass of flame, which every moment seemed to gather 
fresh intensity. It had commenced in Stamboul, across 
the harbour, and, advancing with awful rapidity, had 
made its way, like a conqueror, all across the city. 
The old towers of the seraglio were illumined with 
its fiery glow, and also the great mosques, one of which 
especially it seemed furiously to approach. What with 
the noise and crash of falling buildings, and the crackling 



TURKISH OFFICERS. 



277 



of the flame, the alarm through all the quarters of 
Pera, Galata, and the suburbs could not be appeased. 
Troops, under the direction of the authorities, were 
pouring the whole night towards the scene of devasta- 
tion, a more appalling spectacle than which it was im- 
possible to imagine. The destruction of property was 
immense ; and those who visited the scene next day 
still beheld the flames rising in a way which showed 
that mastery had not yet been obtained over them. 

On September 8th, some days after this calamitous 
occurrence, I went out to see the Sultan's usual Friday 
progress. He was to go from a palace at Dolmabagdche 
to a mosque near Bechiktache. In the hope of seeing 
him crowds of people were waiting in the shade under 
the trees outside the palace. About eleven o'clock 
the showy-looking officers, who walked beside his horse 
in the mosque enclosure, came down from the casernes. 
The last time, when they came in a similar manner, 
they dismounted and stood about under the trees, their 
white steeds being led about in the meantime by at- 
tendants in an orderly manner, or formed in a semi- 
circle opposite their masters. Some of the officers 
were very handsome men. Four of them, whom I ob- 
served, wore white Bedouin cloaks of Broussa silk, with 
full white silk tassels to the hood. These they threw 
about at their ease, sometimes wrapped together round 
their swords, sometimes almost off, but they never got 
tumbled. Their entire uniform consisted of a scarlet 
jacket with black braid, full trousers, boots and spurs, 



278 



TURKISH WOMEN. 



a belt by which the sword was suspended round the 
waist, a white kerchief over the head, bound with a 
double row of black earners hair, to keep it firmly on 
the head. Under this Eastern head-dress, the jet black 
whiskers, moustache, and eyes of the military looked to 
great advantage ; and as they chatted and smiled 
amongst themselves, they appeared, to judge from their 
manners, perfect gentlemen. The salute with which 
they greeted passing friends was somewhat original, 
the hand rapidly touching the lip, breast, and head. 
Two very young men, without either whiskers or beard, 
wore scarlet cloaks, trimmed with black braid, and a 
turban of several rolls of yellow and pink silk wound 
closely round the head ; and two others appeared in very 
thin kerchiefs, made of some elegant material, with 
coloured border, and wound round the head. A car- 
riage at this moment drove up, out of which leaped a 
young boy, dressed in uniform, who seemed to be some- 
body, for, when the troops advanced, they all presented 
arms to him, as he looked on, attended by a negro boy, 
and protected by a very juvenile guard, with whom he 
seemed to be on the most friendly terms, talking freely 
with them. 

Numbers of women, too, were present, their dresses 
of brown, blue, pink, and purple, and their snowy white 
muslin veils covering the face, making a charming 
border to the shady walk. The veil which they wear is 
of very slight texture, and allows the delicate features to 
be dimly seen through it. Some carriages were driving 



THE SULTAN. 



279 



slowly up and down. A company of about fifty soldiers- 
with lances now rode past, followed by a full band of 
music and a long line of troops. His Highness the 
Sultan came last, riding in the midst of a body of 
soldiers on foot. He is a sensible-looking man, about 
forty-five years of age, temperate in his manner of living, 
slightly grey, very grave, too, but not phlegmatic. It 
was amusing to see how the handsome young guards 
hopped over the railings at notice of his approach. As 
they had been gossiping together they had not observed 
his approach, but, on being warned of it, were across the 
road and on their horses before one could say " Jack 
Robinson," their white hoods and tassels pulled over the 
head, and the eyes of all dutifully turned in the direc- 
tion their master was expected to come. I felt glad to 
think, or rather hope, that the times were gone by when 
such handsome heads might be sliced off at a Sultan's 
word — yet who knows ? Thirty years have not passed 
by since the owners of lovely terraced dwellings on the 
Bosphorus were disposed of in a very summary manner. 
The present Ottoman sovereign looks a man who 
would not be trifled with, and has the air of one resolute 
enough for anything he may be called on to do. Re- 
turning over the brow of a hill through the large ceme- 
tery, I saw a man cooking on a small grave, the most 
astonishing place for such an operation I can imagine. 
In the cemetery of Pera the narrow monumental stones 
are erected very close together, and several of them 
appear ready to topple over. I see nothing to admire 



280 



BEAUTIFUL VIEW. 



*in these Turkish cemeteries, unless it be the mass of 
cypress-trees, which would give them an appearance 
of solemnity, if it were not for the thoroughfares in 
every direction through them, numbers of people sitting 
about, not in sorrow, but as they would in a garden, to 
enjoy the sunshine, talk together, and, as we have seen, 
even take the refreshments which they have cooked in 
the same place, an act in which they seem to see no im- 
propriety, disrespect, or irreverence. 

A beautiful view may be observed ascending the accli- 
vity towards this cemetery, and looking back on the palace, 
the gilded gates and railings of which, even to the 
minutest details of their workmanship, are seen to per- 
fection in this bright atmosphere. When Europeans 
come here they ought always to be dressed well, and 
in becoming colours, the style of their garments in con- 
trast with the Oriental, not being seen, even at its best, 
to great advantage. 



281 



CHAPTER XVI. 

Adieu to Constantinople — Turkish Ladies — Mont du Geant — The Black 
Sea — Yarna — Entrance into the Danube — Isle des Serpents — Sulina 
— Banks of the Danube — Toultscha — Young Women in Quarantine 
— A Memorial Russian Church — Arrival at Galatz — Appearance of 
the Town — Yariety of Scenery — Braila and Hirsova — Giurgevo — 
— Bucharest — Interesting Group — Xicopolis — Salutations of the 
Garcons on the Kiver Steamers — Turn Severin — Porte de Fer — 
Orsova — Golumbacz — Babakaj — Curious Rocks — Enormous "Women 
— A Turk in the Ladies' Cabin. 

SATURDAY 9th.— We embarked on board the steamer 
at one o'clock, and bidding Constantinople and its 
beautiful mosques and minarets adieu, gave our last look 
at a picture which for loveliness and grandeur cannot be 
surpassed, and once seen can never be forgotten. The 
steamer lay very near the ruins of the burnt palace, 
which are still overshadowed by cypresses and the dense 
foliage of trees, concealing the ravages made by fire in 
this once charming abode, so long the favourite resort 
of Turkish royalty. As I looked upon the enchanting 
scene I retraced all our haunts in, round, and about the 
great city, which for the extent and variety of its scenes, 
as well as for its historical interest, is unrivalled by any 
other city either of the east or west. It is a fortunate 
thing that as yet but few of the tourist species are met 
in it to destroy its characteristics, though their number 



282 



ADIEU TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 



is now increasing every year. The families connected 
with the different embassies and consulates, however, form 
a considerable Frank colony, among whom the English 
are found in sufficient numbers. There is every con- 
venience in this capital, except carriages. The hill of 
Pera, indeed, and the great steep from Galata, will 
always be a difficulty in the way of their use, as riding 
down the steps, which in broad lines form part of the 
ascent, would be impossible, except to adventurers bent 
on the performance, at the risk of their necks, of a 
dangerous feat. There are some vehicles, however, in 
use for the suburbs, whose exorbitant charges might 
be considerably reduced with great advantage both to the 
public and to their owner, The bazaars, which every one 
wishes to visit, are in old Stamboul, and some way up 
the hill there, necessitating a walk over those most 
uneasy stones of Pera, and across the bridge, &c, an 
undertaking of great fatigue, which must either be 
heroically performed, or abandoned by foot passen- 
gers. As the mosque of Aya Sophia, however, and all 
the old historical sites are in Stamboul, the curious 
must tramp and hobble with the spirit of martyrs to get 
to them. People, it is true, can ride on horseback, but 
that is hardly suitable for ladies in such a city. The 
fair recluses of the harems are sometimes seen at the 
shop doors in pretty painted carriages, with glass win- 
dows, making purchases. Generally there is a large 
bouquet fixed at one of the windows. Though their faces 
are veiled, they are fond of appearing in bright colours 



BOURGAS. 



283 



inside, looking like hot-house plants. I have heard it 
said that some of them are very carefully instructed, 
and proud of their knowledge. 

It is, on the whole, impossible to say too much of the 
beauty of this city. Nature has prepared its site with 
every advantage, and as I was rapidly borne past its 
grand and commanding points of view, and the lovely 
panorama of the Bosphorus faded for ever from my 
sight, I felt that it would be long ere I could look upon 
its like again in any part of the world. 

After passing Buyukdere, we continued our course 
through the strait leading into the Black Sea. We had 
a glimpse of the Mont de Geant, round which a path 
winds, ascending on the side visible to the traveller 
who looks at it from the sea. There are many pleasant 
spots along the sides of this inlet, which is two or three 
miles in length ; but the sea began to get very rough 
as we neared its mouth, and we were tossed about a 
good deal during the night. The water, however, 
soon became tranquil, especially towards morning. 
On rising, we found we were coasting the shores of 
a large bay ; and about six o'clock came to anchor 
before a small town, called Bourgas, which, with some 
others, stands at its head. Zaiten and Emineh are the 
capes at each extremity of this indentation, or curve, of 
the land. A boat-load of bags of specie was here sent 
on shore. The mosque of the town and two wind 
mills are seen rising over the low ground, on which 
the town, whose coloured houses gave it a gay appear- 



284 



VARNA. 



ance amidst the trees, is built. On the southern side 
of this bay are some mountains, of which Peppia is the 
highest. 

Leaving at eight o'clock, we arrived at Varna early 
in the afternoon, where more specie was sent on shore. 
I counted no fewer than fifty bags, each heavier than I 
could lift. Varna has five or six mosques, and a high tower, 
from which, in case of fire, the warning signal is given 
— a very necessary precaution, since, in these Turkish 
towns, the people have a trick of burning themselves. 
The governor's house is a large yellow building, near 
this tower. On the rising ground is the Frank quarter, 
where the consuls' flags are seen fluttering above the 
residence of the consul-general. Behind the town is a 
mountain, the base of which is densely covered with 
vines ; and, I was told, game abounded on the 
heights. A convent is prettily situated amongst the 
vines a mile out of town, along a sea-coast shaded with 
trees. The railway from Eustuck comes to Varna. The 
works, and a long jetty connected with it, will be finished 
in another year. 

Monday, 11th. — How beautiful the soft sunrise from 
the sea ! From the deck, lines of sand are visible, with 
glimpses of some lake in the interior. We entered 
the Danube about 8 a.m., and soon passed the Isle of 
Serpents. Corvettes, English, French, and Turkish, 
were lying in the mouth of the grand stream, of which 
this was but one of the channels. Sulina is a small 
town, lying in the fens. A house with a green roof — 



THE DANUBE. 



285 



the first seen — belongs to some English merchant, 
and has been raised on piles, through which the 
river passes. The inhabitants, in winter, are often 
seen walking about in boots half-way up in water. 
A nice young couple of whom I heard, whose home was in 
Sulina, went on shore, and had to pass two days in quaran- 
tine. The man was an Armenian, and an employe there. 
After a sea voyage the place, with its few trees, did 
not look so miserable as it must be, though the young 
couple evidently did not think it so, thanks to the 
blessed influences of home and happiness. They kindly 
invited me to visit them, should I pass through the 
place again. Their little dog was in ecstacies, and seemed 
quite aware of the approaching pleasure of freedom in 
his accustomed haunts, as he looked out and barked over 
the vessel's side. The banks of the river were flat, but 
looking green and fresh ; and the stream was lively with 
vessels, many with high poops, like those in old pictures. 
Some of the sloops and brigs were in full sail, and others 
were moored close to the bank, on which the crew were 
dispersed among the long grass. 

Well, fairly on the Danube at last, and feeling no 
little exultation to be there ! This great river may be 
entered by three channels ; but large ships must use 
that of St. George, which is deeper by twenty-five feet 
than the deepest of the other two. It w r as curious to 
see the ships at a little distance from us, looking as if 
they were sailing through the fields above or below us. 
On the banks were Turkish guard-houses at intervals. 



286 



TOULTSCHA. 



We began to see distant mountains as we advanced, 
and were always meeting ships spanking down the 
rapid stream, all sails set. After passing St. George, 
the river nobly widened, commanding a view of distant 
mountains ; while on the banks were pleasant fields, with 
low hills near at hand, and lines of bushy trees occasionally 
diversifying the prospect. Toultscha, which we passed, 
is the residence of a pacha, and a considerable town, 
with many boats and vessels lying at it, and with nume- 
rous windmills in its vicinity. The town is built on 
sloping ground, down which, as we approached, a crowd 
came busily towards the steamer, one man clothed 
entirely in bright yellow amongst the group, Two 
young women, whom we took on board at Varna, were 
bound for Toultscha, and on their arrival were sent 
across the river to pass five days in quarantine, under the 
trees on an island, before being allowed to land. The 
captain rowed after the quarantine boat, to recommend 
them to care and shelter, if possible, as none, it seems, 
was provided by the authorities. A high hill at one 
end of this town, with windmills on the top, presents a 
somewhat remarkable appearance ; and, beyond, the 
mountains of the Dobrudscha were always in sight. After 
we had left the place, and had got some distance from 
it, we looked back, and were gratified by a very 
picturesque view of its houses, descending close to the 
water, and the sloping hills around it. The river be- 
came wider and wider as we advanced, and in a short 
time a range of horizontal hills, tinged with the purple 



GALATZ. 



287 



reflection of a soft evening sky, came in sight. An 
estuary to Isman opened on the right hand of the 
stream, and, looking back, a very pretty effect was pro- 
duced by these two rivers. 

Dinner was served on the bridge, high above the 
paddle-wheels, commanding a delightful view of the 
broad stream. As we concluded our repast the sun was 
setting, and clouds of rose-colour were reflected on the 
fair, tranquil surface of the river, while on the left were 
seen hills covered with woods, and on the right a flat 
and uninteresting country. A Russian church, built 
on the spot where the Emperor Nicolas was standing 
when a cannon-ball from the Turkish camp fell close to 
him, in 1828, was pointed out to us. Oil, wine, and 
all things requisite for the service of the church, were 
sent, as we were told, yearly from Russia. 

After sunset, continuing our course on the river, the 
surface of which was like glass, we passed Reni, when 
the darkness of night had begun to gather over it. 
There is a good stone house built for a quarantine here, 
but fortunately we had no luckless females to be left in 
it on this occasion. 

We arrived at Galatz late in the evening, perhaps at 
ten or eleven o'clock, and in the morning, after a good 
night's rest, changed into one of the real Danube 
steamers, an immense boat, with a long, elegant saloon on 
deck, adorned with mirrors, windows, and pictures of 
the beautiful and striking views on the river. Galatz 
is not a place of much interest, but it has some good 



258 



houses. I remarked, however, two church towers, and 
thinking it my duty to pray, I went towards the nearest, 
but found that it was a German Protestant edifice, the 
doors of which were of course shut. Some places 
further on hare a more pleasing aspect, and to those 
who are condemned to live in Galatz may seem pretty. 
A high ridge of land, with trees in the valley beneath, 
appeared to indicate the vicinity of a lake. 

All day long we made our way rapidly over the 
majestic river, the width of which gave it an imposing 
aspect. We passed every variety of scenery — moun- 
tains long and low, banks flat and uninteresting, emi- 

rock izTHLsrims. Braila. Hirsiva. and Ess soy a were 
successively left behind, and greater variety was given 
to the scenery by the numerous islands which we were 
now constantly passing. Might closed in with rain and 
wind, which, indeed, had prevailed at intervals the 
greater part of the day. At Eassova the width of the 
Danube seemed rather that of a lake than of a river. 

Early next morning we arrived at Giurgevo, where 
two diligences, and some other vehicles more or less 
nondescript in appearance, were waiting to take passen- 
gers for Bucharest, the journey to which was over a 
dreary -looking wild country. Bucharest itself, however, 
is an agreeable, stylish city. The roofs of the houses 
present a remarkable appearance, being formed of some 
metal which glitters in the sunshine like silver. The 
first view of it on a fine sunlit day, after a wearisome 



XICOPOLIS. 



289 



journey over a most desolate country, is quite dazzling. 
I had the good fortune to see some specimens of its in- 
habitants too. Among those with whom I conversed 
were two nice girls and their mother. The eldest of the 
maidens was going to Teniesvar, where her fiance lived, 
to be married. This interesting group were Jewesses, 
and the bride elect had an overpowering number of im- 
mense trunks. I suppose she had been sent for like 
Eebecca in Scriptural times. I had also some conver- 
sation with a pretty English lady and a Wallachian 
noble, who, like all long residents at Bucharest, were 
eloquent in their praises of its attractiveness and con- 
veniences. 

About mid-day we came to Xicopolis, its spires and 
houses appearing at the opening of a gorge between 
dry sandy mountains. It is at a little distance from 
the Danube, but two roads run inland to the city. 
Izlas, on the brink of the river, was one of the prettiest 
places we had yet seen on the Danube, and as we passed 
it we observed walls on the mountains above it. We 
passed on the same day a little woody isle, with a vessel 
moored beside it, which certain ruminating animals 
seemed to have quietly to themselves. Droves of cattle, 
sheep, and goats we had frequently observed on the 
banks of the river. Xext day we perceived another 
vessel, with blue masts, moored under the trees of a 
beautiful islet, and after passing it we met a large 
steamer, painted white like our own, which flew swiftly past 
us. The staff of waiters belonging to both boats saluted 

u 



290 



TURN SEVERIX. 



each other with their serviettes. The stream still con- 
tinued of immense width, and after we had passed many 
little isles we enjoyed an unimpeded view of its extent 
from bank to bank. The country, however, for a long 
time was very desolate, and the banks were flat. It 
was but rarely we saw any signs of life. Men cutting 
the coarse flowery grass, and some white cows, were 
sights so rare that when we caught a glimpse of them 
they became objects of the most eager interest. Hun- 
dreds of wild fowl were descried on sand-banks in the 
stream, and occasionally some of the passengers amused 
themselves with a shot at them. At the dinner-table 
to-day we had only some gentle Wallachian girls, and a 
few other travellers, whose appearance excited no par- 
ticular interest. TTe passed Piguet station after sunset, 
and in the morning the scenery was quite of another 
character from what it had been. The banks were high 
and woodv, and occasionallv there were houses near the 
water. Approaching Turn Severin we observed beautiful 
woody hills on both sides of the river, and arrived at 
the town named about eight o'clock. Here we waited 
some hours, as we were now at the Austrian frontier. 
The town possesses two hotels, and connected with some 
new houses are shady gardens, in which are to be seen 
the ruins of the towers of Trajan's bridge amid large 
chestnut-trees, through which there are pleasant walks. 
Count Oscar, the handsome young "Wallachian noble, as 
we were strolling through them, dwelt with something 
like wounded feeling, natural enough in a man Prince 



LA PORTE DE FER. 



291 



Couza had just banished from Bucharest, on the little 
gratitude that had been exhibited in return for the en- 
thusiasm with which he had sprung from his horse to 
greet and kiss the newly-chosen ruler's hand at Turn 
Severin, and then, remounting, had never drawn bridle 
till he reached Bucharest to announce his approach. 

Here we had to change into a small steamer to pass 
the rapids. The luggage of the Jewish bride, whom I 
have already mentioned, seemed heavy enough to sink 
the little vessel. We left Turn Severin at 4 p.m., going 
through the famous Porte de Fer of the Danube, on 
each side of which are now richly-wooded hills. The 
river was now raised in waves, and what with the 
whirlpools among the rocks, and the strong wind, two 
officers had to be kept at the helm. Our position was 
like that of persons on a raft, the water being almost 
even with the deck. We passed some pretty inlets 
amongst the mountains, a Turkish fort, and some islands, 
on one of which the crown of Hungary was once interred 
by some patriots, and where it was discovered only recently 
Orsovawas one of the stations at which we stopped, and, on 
reaching the dogana, the steamer was again changed. 
It was quite dark when we settled into the new and 
elegant boat which was now assigned to us. In the 
beautiful saloon, however, we passed the time very plea- 
santly. Orsova seemed a nice place, with sweet, fertile 
hills close to it, descending almost to the water's edge. We 
left it at 6 a.m., and arrived at Basiasch at 4 p.m., pass- 
ing all day long woods and precipices covered with 

u 2 



292 



BASIACH. 



trees, and a country the appearance of which was often 
rich and beautiful. The defile of Kasan, one of the most 
picturesque scenes we saw, was entered directly after 
leaving Orsova. The Danube now seemed quite shut in 
by rocks, on one of which we saw an inscription, said to 
have been made there by order of the Emperor Trajan ; 
and in another a staircase, which he commanded to be 
made on the face of one of these huge precipices for the 
descent of his army. As I was looking on both sides 
of the river with great attention, the little steamer in 
which we were to pass the cascades suddenly grated on 
the rocks, causing considerable alarm and screaming 
amongst the females. On a sailor running down to pull 
up the cabin planks, in order to see if the water was 
coming in, one of the ladies fainted away. The ladies 
here, it is to be remarked, are not in the habit of 
travelling much. At Basiasch, there was another change 
of boat ; and those who preferred the railway took it 
there. Though we had still two days and nights con- 
stant travelling, I chose to remain in the steamer, being 
still determined to follow the course of the majestic 
river on which I had so long sailed. Golumbacz, with 
its nine towers, presented a lovely scene on the 
left ; and on the right was another tower, on a hill 
called Babakaj, where the Donauklause (Porte de 
Fer) ended. From this place to Turn Severin the 
navigation of the Danube is very dangerous, and all the 
timid people were glad to have it over. I remarked 
several peasants on the banks in white clothes, with a 



SEMLIN. 



293 



red fringe hanging from the waist. During the day we 
passed some curious rocks, covered with flowers of a 
pink shade. At Basiasch were only two or three houses, 
and the remains of an old convent. The railway is 
close to the place of embarcation. The " Albrecht " 
steamer, to which we were here transferred, is large, 
but not an accelere boat, as were the others from 
Galatz and Orsova. We had to-day a German dinner, 
and afterwards retired to a saloon divided off from the 
general one, for the use of the ladies, where I reclined 
on a sofa close to the window, enjoying the beautiful 
moving panorama of the river, and the scenes on its 
banks, in the soft, calm evening twilight. Two hand- 
some girls and their mother came on board from some 
of the villages which we passed, one with her dress 
trimmed in red — the best-looking of the two, as it 
seemed to me. They were so enormous in size that 
they would really have made more than three ordinary 
English or French women. An old fellow was trying to 
do the agreeable to the beauty, with whom he continued 
for some time playing a game like draughts ; and when- 
ever he moved off the girls gave a low musical laugb, 
and shaking their fair, fat shoulders, made merry at his 
expense, to be in a moment as demure and affable as 
ever when he appeared again. Mammon, I fear, was 
to have a sacrifice of this fine creature in her youth and 
bloom. The steamer made a pause of four hours at 
Semlin, where many passengers left and others came on 
board. A Turkish officer, too, who, with half a dozen 



294 



A JEALOUS TURK. 



ladies and black slaves, had been our fellow-passengers, 
bade us farewell. In spite of every remonstrance, order, 
and sign to the contrary, this gentleman had persisted in 
installing himself in the ladies' cabin, as if for the pur- 
pose of guarding his fair dames, for he sat in his full 
military costume, and kept a scimitar in his hand, while 
he remained on a sofa near his charges, watching them 
carefully night and day. As he could not have been eject- 
ed without force, which those in command did not seem 
inclined to use, there was nothing for it on our part but 
to remain in the little day-cabin above, though the 
stewards suggested that the Moslem would never notice 
our presence if we entered the cabin he had appro- 
priated. None of the company, however, fancied form- 
ing part of the Ottoman household for thirty-six hours. 
As for the ladies, they must have been eating melons 
the whole night, for the floor was strewn with rinds, 
and, indeed, even after they were gone, no attention 
was paid to cleanliness or order in this compartment of 
the vessel. 



295 



CHAPTER XVII. 

Belgrade — An. Hungarian Princess — Dalys, Apatin, and Paks — Ezchaue 
Station — Hungarian Children — Buda and Pesth — Blocksberg — The 
Museum — Jewish Reformed Synagogue — The Fortifications of Buda 
— The Ancient Crown of Hungary — Marionville — Pettau — Beau- 
tiful Pass— Der Schwarze Adler — A Disagreeable Travelling Route 
— Bruneek — Francis Festung — Botzen — Monument to the Arch- 
duke Rainer of Austria — Curious Old Monuments — Baffled Curiosity 
— Beautiful Mountain View. 

DELGRADE is a fine city. A steamer plies constantly 
U between it and Semlin, a distance which can be 
surmounted in about a quarter of an hour. The name 
of the city is rife with the memory of sieges and battles 
fought in former days between the Turk and the infidel. 
An Hungarian family came on board, with whom we 
soon picked up a steamboat acquaintance, and had a 
long chat by starlight at the open window with one of 
its members, a charming young girl, who could not be 
persuaded to sleep, and was eloquent in the expression 
of the anticipated pleasure to be derived from spending 
some time at a place further up the river. 

The Danube is the high road for the travels of all the 
dwellers upon its banks, who frequently go up or down 
a few miles by the steamers merely for their pleasure. 
Early next morning we came to Karlovitz bridge, near 



296 



TOWNS ON THE DANUBE. 



which was a fortress on a hill. St. Marie Fried, a 
church built when some famous treaty of peace was 
signed in 1799, had five doors for the different ambassa- 
dors, a scheme by which the question of the right of 
precedence, which was raised before the opening cere- 
mony, was satisfactorily evaded. The town, which is 
situated on a hill, with stations amongst the trees, forms 
a pretty object from the river. St. Marie Schnee, a 
famous place of pilgrimage near Karlowitz, stands on a 
mound, on the top of which is a fortress of considerable 
extent, the fortifications extending in lines one below 
another. A bridge of boats leads across to Xeusatz, a 
town or village situated upon a low level site, but which 
seemed to be much frequented by visitors. My young 
companion had been in ecstasies when speaking of it the 
previous night, having been landed there with her 
family and many other persons. A group of young 
military boys was drawn up on the bank to receive 
their comrades, a considerable number of whom had 
come with us. We next touched at Xestin, a village 
with thatched houses, and two churches, where, as at 
every other station, passengers were now constantly 
coming and going. Banostor is another little thatched 
village, with a church on the hill rising behind it. 
Here there were many great boats in the middle of 
the river, among them mill-boats grinding corn, for 
Father Danube never allows his children to be a moment 
idle. 

Pretty rural landscapes, with trees growing down the 



TURKS AND THEIR HAREMS. 



297 



slopes, now rapidly succeeded each other. We 
passed several large barges in tow, on the bows of 
which were faded paintings of saints. Near Illok 
we saw fine groves of trees and magnificent oaks rising 
in all their majesty. Before an immense semi-cir- 
cular wood herds of cattle were lying down, some in the 
water, and some close to it, apparently in bovine or 
vaccine contemplation. Groups of persons were con- 
stantly coming on board, sometimes in the strangest 
costumes. In one group was a Servian priest with 
broad hat and hair hanging down on his shoulders, 
while immediately following him were some Austrian 
officers and their families. An Hungarian princess 
and her daughter, with a most unpronounceable 
name, joined us at one station, and remained two or 
three days amongst the voyagers, with whom they made 
themselves so agreeable that we were all sorry when 
they took their departure. 

Dalys and Apatin were passed on Sunday morning, as 
also Paks, a long village of thatched houses, sheltered 
under a bank above which vines were growing. Odon 
station we reached at one o'clock, a village situated in a 
flat country. As Turks of one rank or other were con- 
stantly in the ladies' cabin, keeping jealous guard over 
their harems, we had passed several nights without 
going to rest, and, as may be imagined, were getting 
dreadfully fatigued, but we had no remedy for our 
sufferings but patience. After passing a woody island, 
near which was a huge flat vessel with the Austrian flag 



298 



BUDA. 



at the stem and stern, we saw several islands near which, 
were colonies of mill-boats, busy in summer, though in 
winter they are removed. An enormous boat, like a 
Noah's ark, which we rapidly left behind, was slowly 
propelled by one helpless rower. 

How busy the river became as we neared the large 
cities ! At Ezchaue station my attention was directed 
to some children in costume, with dark gowns, large 
worked muslin aprons, ribbons crossed over their chests, 
and necklaces hanging from the high collar round the 
throat. Pert little things they were, bandying saucy 
answers with people on board, who amused themselves 
by joking with them. 

Promontore, a favourite place of resort half an hour 
from Pesth, was the last station we passed, and at four 
o'clock Pesth and Buda came in sight, and a noble ap- 
pearance they made. The fortress of Buda on the cliff, 
and the royal palace a little further on, look down upon 
the town, in which we observe the chain bridge crossing 
the river, and the handsome quay and buildings of 
Pesth. The Blocksberg looks higher than it really is. 
Its rocky sides overhang many rows of small houses. 
It is a fine majestic eminence, and we ascended it next 
day, getting to the summit in about twenty minutes. 
The view seen from it was very extensive, including the 
palace and gardens, and the town, together with the 
several vine-covered mountains by which it is invested. 
Johannisberg and other villages, with foot-paths to them 
running up the eminences, and little churches nestling 



PESTH. 



299 



under the shade at the foot of the heights, formed most 
pleasant views. The Danube (here 1,500 feet wide) is 
visible for many a long mile north and south, with two 
islands, one of which, Margarethen, is laid out as a park. 
We touched in the steamer first on the Buda side, and 
then, letting fall our chimney, went under the suspen- 
sion bridge (a magnificent structure joining the two 
cities) to Pesth. The Europa Hotel, to which, on land- 
ing, we proceeded, looks well outside, but has a range 
of close rooms opening on a corridor surrounding the 
court, into which travellers are often thrust. Pesth is 
a large city on level ground, and has fine, wide, clean 
streets and good shops. We visited, too, its interesting 
museum, entering, however, only those rooms in it 
which are stored with historical souvenirs, such as 
ancient armour, the swords of old heroes, guns with 
Damascus barrels and gilded ivory stocks, ornaments 
presented by old Hungarian families, belts studded with 
precious stones, massive gold clasps worn on the breast 
and shoulders, ladies' necklaces, stomachers, rings, and 
bracelets set with superb rubies and emeralds. In one 
of the cases was an ornament for the altar, adorned 
with a figure of the Madonna cut out of a single pearl, 
her feet resting on a footstool of topaz. On a square of 
Carrara marble was represented a picture of some saint, 
done in delicate red, the figure with clasped hands and 
upward ecstatic regards, looking up to the clouds. 
There were many gold and silver chalices, cups studded 
with precious stones, amethyst and opal church vessels. 



300 



JEWISH REFORMED SYNAGOGUE. 



The whole collection was of immense value, and of great 
historical interest, one of the articles with the most 
touching recollections being a harp once belonging to 
Marie Antoinette. 

In one of the rooms was a silver figure of Xapoleon 
Buonaparte, fully three feet in height, and of beautiful 
workmanship. The old custode seemed to take great 
pride in showing his treasures and in parading his inti- 
mate acquaintance with their histories. One of the most 
interesting places which we visited was the Jewish 
reformed synagogue, a strikingly original and handsome 
edifice, quite new, and well adapted to the recent 
changes these remarkable people have made in some of 
the forms of their worship. In the roof, which is flat, 
are three octagon painted windows, and on each side of 
the aisle are three arches, extending up to the roof. 
Two galleries are divided into nine partitions by small 
bronze columns. The tabernacle, which is of white 
marble, partially gilded, has a malachite door, and it is 
surmounted by an elegant dome, which is ornamented 
with blue and gold stripes, two small tablets for the 
commandments standing higher up. Two pulpits, with 
large gilded candelabra on each side of the raised plat- 
form on which the tabernacle stands, are divided by a 
railing from the rest of the synagogue. Outside are 
two octagon towers, and at the two wings are small 
towers, with four little gilded balls on their battle- 
ments, round which runs a pattern in stars, decorating 
this and every other part of the architecture. 



MARIONYILLE 



301 



The fortifications at Buda are now laid out in plea- 
sant walks, with trees and seats. In the fortress the 
ancient crown of Hungary is kept under seal. I visited 
some of the mineral baths, the water of which, though 
piping hot, can be had at any temperature. Rooms, 
restaurant, and garden are connected with each estab- 
lishment ; and there are swimming-baths for ladies. 

So recently returned from Constantinople, everything 
looked very dull and common-place ; but I have no 
doubt these cities would form an agreeable residence, 
though they present a perfect contrast to each other, 
the modern Pesth and the ancient Buda. The streets 
are gay and bustling. Within a morning's walk are 
rocky cliffs and breezy mountains. The pleasant island 
park, too, is a most attractive and agreeable spot. The 
grand river is always surveyed with deep interest, con- 
ducting, as it does, in one direction into the heart of 
Europe, in the other towards the sunny lands of the 
East. Of the proverbial kindness of the good Hun- 
garians, I had several agreeable proofs during my long 
voyage on the river, and even in this short sojourn. 

After a few days' stay, I left by the six o'clock train 
from Buda, crossing the chain bridge and going through 
a tunnel to the first station. After so much travelling 
my brain wanted rest, and I could scarcely bear to look 
at the country while whirling rapidly along. Marion- 
ville, a pretty village, with park and trees, and with a 
Swiss cottage on the bank of a little river, was one of 
the first places we passed. In a few hours we came to 



302 



PETTAU. 



a lake, wide and charming to the eye, and with four 
towns on its distant coast. The railway ran close to it 
for some time. At a place where there were no 
houses or villages, we saw a man hurrying along the 
sands to a little solitary boat, which probably had 
brought him from one of those remote little towns we 
could just see. Beyond the lake we could perceive a 
distant mountain, with woody top, and another emi- 
nence in the form of a cone. Passing through an oak 
wood, where the grass spreading beneath the trees was 
very pleasant, we came to Pettau station at 4.30 
p.m., after crossing a large river, and some fertile 
woody country, with mountain ridges in the distance. 
At Pettau is a large monastery, and near it a river 
crossed by iron bridges. We arrived at Marburg at 
seven o'clock, and slept there for the night, starting 
again at eight next morning, when I felt quite refreshed. 
We soon came to a most beautiful pass, situated in the 
Steyermark, or Styria, with a torrent foaming in its 
depths and firs growing on the mountain ridges. 
Lower down all was life, beauty, and sunlight on the 
one side, repose and shadow on the other. The diligence 
left the post of Villach at five, reached Brixen late on 
the next evening, and halted at Mederdorf half an hour 
in the middle of the day. The woman at the post 
where the diligence stops being very uncivil, we went 
to the Schwartze Adler, kept by Kellensteiner, a few 
doors further on in this dusty village ; but the whole of 
this travelling route, from Villach to the Tyrol, is 



THE TYROL. 



303 



disagreeable, the diligences being poor, rough little 
carriages. The scenery, however, is beautiful. An unfor- 
tunate family, under the command of a courier, had to 
make four or five days of the distance between Villach 
and Brixen. 

About four o'clock we came to Bruneck, the prettiest 
little place on the whole journey. A castle on the hill 
had a picturesque appearance among the woods by which 
it was surrounded. It would have been pleasant to 
remain amidst this rural scenery, but for the incon- 
venience of making another change. The great Francis 
Fortress (Francis Festung) is situated in a defile which 
is reached not long before coming to Brixen, and near 
it the road branches off to Innspruck. After sleeping 
at Brixen, we left early next morning for Botzen, and 
passed through a beautiful defile. The railway which is 
now constructing beside the road completely spoils the 
rocky banks of a torrent. Botzen, at which we arrived 
about mid-clay, is a quiet town amidst mountains ; and 
here I anticipated my pilgrimage was to end, for Meran, 
the appointed place of meeting with dear and expectant 
friends, was close at hand. The prospect of rest and 
leisure, surrounded by the silvan beauty of the Tyrol, 
was most grateful to me, and in a spirit of thankfulness 
I entered an old church, standing in a peaceful-looking, 
open space, and offered up thanks. This church is 
ancient, but has been partially repaired. The supports 
of the western porch are two red marble leopards of 
great antiquity, on the backs of which pillars are 



304 



MONUMENT OF AN AUSTRIAN ARCHDUKE. 



raised. Behind the high altar is a monument of the 
Erzherzog Eainer von Oesterreich, " geboren in Pisa, 
1783, gestorben in Botzen, 1853, hat Hochstselbst 
diese Grabschrift angeordnet im Testamente vom Mai, 
1849," with the following verses — 

MEINE GLAUBE. 

Meine Glaube darf nicht wanken, 

O trostlichen Gedanken ! 

Ich werde durcli sein Auferstehen 

Gleich ihm auf meinem Grabe gehen. 

Die Nacht die mich hier decket 

Bis mich der Engel wecket, 

1st kurz, dann ruft mein Heiland mich, 

Dorthin wo Niemand stirbt, zu sich. 

Wanderer, der du an meinem Grabe stehest, bete fiir mich, 
armen Sunder, auf dass meine Glaube verwirklichet werde. 

A marble bas-relief of the Resurrection of our Saviour, 
and the figure of two angels kneeling beside the tomb, 
are exquisitely chiselled. And I, who had been in far 
distant Palestine, where, in the church of the Holy 
Sepulchre, the spot is believed to be enclosed on which 
that stupendous event took place, read with devotional 
interest the pious lines, which seemed to me the pure 
emanation of a Christian heart that had never been 
gladdened, as mine had been, by visiting the holy shrines 
of the Saviour's human career. In another part of the 
town was a little chapel, wherein were some curious old 
monuments, ten of which were in the walls, and five 
more under the gallery, in which also thirty coats of 
arms were hanging up. 



BAFFLED CURIOSITY. 



305 



A droll instance of baffled questioning I must note. 
While to obtain answers when requiring any directions 
or information, was an impossibility, one at least of the 
inhabitants thought a stranger should satisfy her curi- 
osity. Entering a shop for a bun a woman darted out 
of an inner room, put her arms a-kimbo, set herself down 
on a stool opposite me, and bluntly asked me where I 
had come from? "Von weit," was my reply. Where 
was I going to ? " Weit," I answered. Was I French, 
English, or Italian ? When did I come ? How long 
was I going to stay, &c, &c. ? I stared in her face, 
never giving her more than a perplexing monosyllable 
in reply, till, quite out of breath with her own queries, 
she followed me with a look of vexed eagerness, which 
appeared so ludicrous that I could not help smiling. 
As I had determined, however, to answer none of her 
queries, I left her to satisfy her curiosity in the best 
manner she could by divining who I was, whence and 
why I had come, and whither I was going. 



x 



306 



CHAPTER XVIII. 



Meran — German Social Life — Hotels and Pensions — The Parish Church 
•—Relic of a Saint — Chapel of St. Valentine — The Tyrol — A Tunnel — 
Picturesque Old Castle — The Rauchenberg — Ruined Castle — Sun- 
day Gathering of Peasants — Railroad to Verona — Verona — The 
" Kaiserkrone " — Brixen — Stertzing — The Brenner Pass — Houses of 
Prayer — The Brenner See — Innspruck — Under Valley of the Inn — 
Nuns— Bavarian Frontier — Passport Annoyance — Alpine Scenery 
— Munich — Augsburg — The Donikirche — Ulm — The Minster — 
Wood-Carving — Geislingen — Stuttgart. 



T two o'clock we set off for Meran by a dusty road, 



" arriving in sight of the two painted church spires 
of that town about five. I was considerably disap- 
pointed at first with its general appearance ; but next 
day observed a beautiful mountain view from it. Find- 
ing in my walk, too, a quiet-looking garden, walks with 
seats, and arbours where a tired traveller might possibly 
sit and muse unmolested, I thought it might be as well 
to remain here for a short time. I was, accordingly, 
soon installed in a pleasant apartment in the best and 
cleanest house in the place, whence I at once sent off 
a packet of letters to apprise my friends of my determi- 
nation, and then tried to feel at ease. The German ele- 
ment in social life, however, I must confess, is not to 




ME RAN. 



307 



ray taste — their speech at dinner, their looks, their food, 
and their manners have generally a homeliness that 
fatigues and annoys me. After two or three days' ex- 
perience of it, therefore, I had to decline dining at the 
table d'hote, which was frequented almost exclusively by 
Germans. 

There are here four pensions, Hasfurther's, Prox- 
auf's, Weinhart's, and D. G. Putz's, one hotel, combined 
with the Erzherzog Johann pension, and two houses 
where rooms are let with attendance, coffee, &c, and 
where occupants can have dinner sent in or go to the 
table d'hote at Hasfurther's or the hotel. The Bellevue 
seemed to be in a favourable situation, being on a slight 
eminence, and with the advantage of seclusion. The 
Deutsche Haus is in the midst of the public walks, and in 
a garden attached to it the sun blazes all day, while the 
noise of the neighbouring torrent is disturbing all night. 
The rooms, however, are nice and airy, and the windows 
large. By the code of regulations which is hung up in 
the salon, smoking either in the rooms or corridors is 
strictly prohibited and quietness enjoined — very requi- 
site in any establishments frequented by Germans ; and 
Meran seemed to be a complete colony of them. It is, 
however, on the whole, a very tolerable place, and has 
the most abundant supply of the finest grapes I ever 
met with anywhere. The people are Eoman Catholics, 
and consequently the churches are not shut up. The 
parish church seems well attended ; and I never passed 
in the evening, just as the light was fading, without 



308 



CHAPEL OF ST. VALENTINE. 



finding, on my entrance into it, an assemblage of kneel- 
ing people, all responding in mass to the solemn prayers 
that were murmured at the high altar. The organ and 
choir seemed to be well directed for a country place, 
and the peasantry on Sundays and festas appeared in 
costume. 

There is also a little church on the hill, with a green 
spire. Its interior is rich in the possession of the 
skeleton of a saint, whose poor bones are clothed in 
brocaded satin and decked profusely with jewellery. 
The chapel of St. Valentine, a modern erection, built in 
fulfilment of a vow, is situated in a remote vale, under 
a mountain about two miles from the town. . The ar- 
chitecture is Gothic, and the interior is beautifully 
painted and gilded. On an eminence above the town 
are the ruins of a castle, once, doubtless, formidable 
enough, as guarding the pass, but now a quiet spot, 
where one may spend an hour out of sight of the grape- 
eaters to be met with at every turn in the walks. From 
the window of my apartment we have a good view of the 
torrent, which is an object of interest here. A fine 
row of trees runs along its course. The best view of it 
mav be obtained from the centre of the bridge entering 
the town. All the jagged mountain tops around appear 
thence to the greatest advantage. I went one after- 
noon up the mountain to Tyrol, about two hours' distance, 
where I remarked some charming views down into the 
valleys, along which the torrent takes its course. A 
tunnel has been bored through a most inaccessible-look- 



OLD CASTLE. 



30 ( J 



ing rock, which had formerly to be climbed ere one 
could reach the vicinity of the castle. 

On emerging from the tunnel, the castle is seen stand- 
ing most picturesquely on a mound of beautiful verdure, 
and is approached by a winding way. A number of 
little old rooms, like those in a guard-house, are shown 
in the wing ; after which the old custode opened a door 
leading to a chamber of good proportions, having old 
furniture carefully covered up, the Emperor Francis Jo- 
seph's picture in a light blue uniform, and also that of his 
predecessor. From this room there is a most beautiful 
view of the valley below, dotted with villages, and the 
surrounding mountains of varied forms. The mound, 
rich in verdure, is seen sloping down to a plain below, a 
tremendous depth, and in the ravine, guarding another 
approach lower down, are the ruins of a smaller castle. 
Beneath the chamber in which the Emperor's picture 
hangs is a chapel, with a very ancient doorway of 
white marble, recessed like that of some of our old 
cathedrals, and beautifully sculptured with curious 
figures of animals. 

The silence and seclusion of this place would make it 
a delightful retreat, and its history in times gone by 
suggests many a romantic legend connected with it. 
when it was the stronghold of the mountain passes of 
the Tyrol. A road winds along the side of the hill 
beyond the town, and the valley can be reached in time 
by returning through some villages. The route on my 
return was very pleasant, being in the cool of the even- 



310 



THE LEBENBURG. 



ing. The moon rose splendidly over the mountain top 
and lighted the path. I found my way homeward. Day 
after day of unclouded beauty had given me every op- 
portunity of seeing the beauties of the place ; but at 
last rain, which was said to be " wanted," came down 
in earnest, and at once everyone set up a lamentation, 
as if it was the most vexatious calamity that could have 
happened. After a short interval, however, nature, 
freshened up by the welcome showers, shone forth again 
in glittering loveliness, rocks, trees, and waters appear- 
ing in such radiant beauty, that in the language of 
Scripture all seemed to " rejoice." 

Throwing aside my pen and book I sallied forth to 
partake in the universal gladness ; though from my 
large double window I had already been more than a 
spectator of this brightest of transformations. Mounted 
on a mule, and accompanied by a boy, I gradually 
ascended the Kauchenberg to the remains of an old 
castle standing on a finely-formed projection of the 
cliffs, at a point whence the views are very pretty, 
as they are also during the ascent by a path along the 
mountain side overlooking the vale. 

On another of those fine days which I had the good 
fortune to enjoy I went to the Lebenburg, a castle with 
a high tower too ruinous to ascend. In the ruined 
chambers hang portraits of the lord and lady of this 
chateau, besides some old armour, and an object which 
causes the prying visitor to start when he perceives it, 
namely, a formidable bear stuffed, doubtless killed in 



RAILROAD TO VERONA. 



311 



the neighbouring woods on some great hunting day. 
Several rooms, either repaired or well preserved, are 
furnished as bed-chambers. The family having the care 
of the chateau liberally dispense refreshments, and stran- 
gers may pass a few days at this old romantic place, 
exploring the surrounding silvan dales and heights. I 
regretted to find the tower so dilapidated, as its summit 
must command an extensive prospect, though there is 
nothing more than the valley to be seen at any distance 
near Meran. 

On Sundays the peasant men, collected before the 
church, with their red-edged coats and pointed hats, 
make a gay appearance. Far in the country a few of 
them are to be met with wearing a most gigantic head- 
gear of feathers, quite formidable if seen in the twilight. 

After a rest of some weeks I left for Innspruck, and 
passing through Botzen, the environs of which are more 
interesting than those of Meran, I remarked some fine 
projections of rock with ruins on them, and the remains 
of old shrines with stations leading up the ascent. The 
hills are high and rocky, and there are in the neighbour- 
hood some curious pyramidal formations in a valley. 
The railroad to Yerona looks quite romantic (if that is 
possible), going through a rocky opening to dear Italy, 
the land of softness and beauty, separated by its Alpine 
barrier from these rougher northern regions. 

Verona is reached in six hours, and the Lake Garda 
station in three. There are gardens for promenaders, and 
a pretty view from the hills at both these places. The 



312 



FRANCIS FESTUNG. 



hotel called the Kaiserkrone is a grand-looking establish- 
ment, and the others have clean and neat rooms looking 
over gardens overhung by rocks. 

At five next morning I resumed my journey, and 
arrived at Brixen about mid-day. Brixen is one of the 
bishoprics of the Tyrol, and there the bishop's palace 
makes rather an imposing appearance as seen from the 
road. The suburbs, too, are very pleasant, and there 
are some fine residences in them. The great Francis 
fortress is at the entrance of a mountain defile, into 
which the road turns towards Innspruck instead of taking 
the Yillach route. One part of the fortress stands high 
above the road, the other on what looks like an island 
of rock, at the base of which boils a torrent far below. 
Stertzing, our next station, we arrived at quite late, 
perhaps ten o'clock, in pouring rain. There was just 
light enough next morning to see some of the curious 
old houses painted outside ere plunging under a heavy 
archway on leaving the town. The Brenner pass was 
preceded by fragments of rock, increasing as we ad- 
vanced to cliffs, and at last appearing as mountain 
heights. It was more than three hours ere the powers 
of three stout horses, which seemed to be heavily taxed, 
could bring to the summit the lumbering vehicle called 
the u Gesellschaft Wagen." In the village at the head 
of the pass was a large post-house and hotel, near 
which was a little chapel, out of which people were 
coming in pelting rain, followed last of all by the priest, 
who, opening and closing the wicket gate, went into his 



INNSPRUCK. 



313 



home. Houses of prayer, wherever seen, however 
humble, are they not a social bond, knitting together 
the whole human race, and showing the need man has 
for communion with his Maker ? 

Passing on, and beginning to descend, I soon came 
to a minute lake called ostentatiously enough the Bren- 
ner See, though its waters indicate by their colour and 
movement that they are of considerable depth and 
volume ; and as they pour down in cascades they 
gradually form a tumultuous torrent in the bed of the 
valley on the right of the road, where an intrusive 
railway is in progress. A fine wide carriage road winds 
clown to the plain on which Innspruck stands. The river 
is here bordered with trees, and in the town are several 
churches and wide streets, in one of which is a house 
with a curious painted front and a gilded roof. We 
reached this pleasant town, seventy-nine miles from 
Botzen, about two in the afternoon. Proceeding on by 
railway, we got to Kufstein at six, passing through the 
" Under Valley of the Inn," a narrow defile between 
rocky heights, watered by the river, and spread with 
a carpet of brightest verdure. We came to several 
villages or small towns, such as Hall, Volders, Schwatz, 
Kattenberg, and Worgl. Two nuns with pyramidal white 
bonnets of the ugliest outline, but enclosing calm faces, 
and wearing beads and crucifixes appended to a death's 
head, went with us as far as Schwatz, the youngest 
catching up her rosary out of my heretical sight with a 
jerk which was rather amusing. They were succeeded 



314 



BAVARIAN FRONTIER. 



by three priests going as far as Worgl. The elder I 
soon found was an embodied note of interrogation, and 
must certainly have been of transatlantic origin. 

The whole vale had a cheerful and pleasant aspect. 
Crossing the Russian bridge I came to an hotel, where I 
took up my quarters. Close to the town are several 
towers with extinguisher tops, which a dense mist next 
morning prevented me from discerning to any advantage. 
The people at the station were very troublesome about 
my passport, an annoyance which I could not help at- 
tributing to the priest's extraordinary curiosity. 

As I am now on the Bavarian frontier I must bid 
farewell to the beautiful Tyrol, too interesting a region 
to have been so hurried through, if the season had not 
been breaking up, and I felt so fatigued, both mentally 
and bodily, by a year's almost incessant travelling. I 
was so exhausted, indeed, that I was only desirous to 
" flee away and be at rest." 

After passing Rosenlei the valley merged into a dull 
plain, though the Tyrol mountains continued still some 
time in sight, and we once had a glimpse of some of the 
high Alps covered with snow, as well as of the points of 
the three Herrn Spitz and the Great Glockner. 

We stopped next at Holtzkirchen, a common restaurant 
station, where a halt of half an hour seemed to be made 
especially for the benefit of the third-class passengers, 
who take one of their meals at half-past ten. At Munich, 
where the train halted before mid-day, the aspect of 
everything was dreary in the extreme, under a low and 



MUNICH. 



315 



cloudy white sky, and where not a height was to be 
seen rising a foot above the plain. Munich, however, 
is a handsome city, but I shivered as I entered it, re- 
membering the touch I once had of the rigour of its 
winter climate. I was very glad to hurry away from 
the Bavarian capital to Augsburg, though the rain was 
pouring in torrents. I arrived, however, fortunately in 
a dry interval, during which I had the pleasure of see- 
ing the Domkirche, the grand portal of which is so 
beautiful, adorned with figures similar to those which 
are sculptured on the exterior of the walls. The in- 
terior is of noble height, with slender pillars rising to 
the roof. A painted window with immense medallions 
at the east end, and another at the south-west, seemed 
very beautiful productions of art. Many persons were 
kneeling near one of the altars, engaged in the service of 
vespers. 

The city seemed handsome, its high, picturesque 
houses having arched roofs. A spirited military band 
was passing to quarters while I was looking on, playing 
most exquisite music. The comfortable, large, warm 
room at the station, with table laid out and cutlets 
excellently cooked, seemed always magically ready for 
every one, come when he might. 

I left at half-past six, and by the slowest of slow 
trains came to Ulm at a very late hour. I had time, 
however, to see the Domkirche here before leaving next 
day. The Minster being in German Protestant hands 
was of course hermetically shut, the old man's house 



316 



ULM. 



through whose rooms one must pass to enter the sacred 
building alsolutely intruding into the aisle itself, as if to 
keep the house of God the more secure. The grand 
entrance-doors (always kept closed) are deeply recessed, 
and the decorations of the arch represent the Creation, 
the Fall, and the quarrel of Cain and Abel. 

Within there is some beautiful wood carving over the 
stalls, between each of which there are busts of the 
heathen sages, Pythagoras, Seneca, &c. ; above are 
those of the prophets of the Old Testament, and still 
higher those of the Apostles. On the opposite side are 
figures of women, the Sibyls of Delphi, &c, the Jewesses 
Sarah, Rachel, &c, and the martyrs and holy women of 
the New Testament. Amongst the female saints the 
bust of St. Cecilia is exquisitely finished. Five painted 
windows in a semi-circle are of great beauty, two of 
them the workmanship of the fifteenth century, the 
others more ancient. The chapel of a family named 
Bergass, with a window in medallions, is pointed out ; 
and a painting of the good Burgomaster himself, most 
life-like in execution, is kept in a kind of case fixed 
against the wall. Yet these worthy people would have 
had their Protestant feelings shocked by the picture of a 
saint. 

The length of the Minster, looking from the west end, 
is remarkable. The pulpit is adorned with some new 
and beautiful spiral carving. There have been in former 
days some frescoes on the pillars and walls, but these 
are now almost obliterated, 1 believe purposely. It was 



TERMINATION OF MY JOURNEY. 



317 



a cold, windy day, but going over this Minster excited 
a glow, not of fatigue, but of something like anger. 
The sermon was on Sunday, then it was open. I was 
informed that to have said anything about prayers would 
have been thought pap isticcd. I set off at ten o'clock, 
and arrived next at Geislingen, a town at the end of a 
valley, in the midst of rocks and woods, and some pretty 
fertile country, which, indeed, is characteristic of 
TTiirternburg in its whole extent, but otherwise without 
any remarkable features. I arrived at Stuttgart at 
2 p.m., where the kindest of friends awaited me with 
the kindest of welcomes. And here, my long journey 
completed, I lay down my pen. 



THE END. 



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